A la Vecia Cavana
Rio terra SS. Apostoli, Cannaregio 4624. Phone: 523 8644. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A gourmet place about 600 meters from Rialto bridge. From the eastern bridge-head we follow a signposted route in the direction of Ferrovia, the railway station. After 500 meters we arrive at Santi Apostoli. We turn right on the left side of the church, walk Salizzada del Pistor to Giorgione hotel where we turn right and walk to the end of the street, where we turn left.
Behind the entrance a seafood counter leads to a Romanesque arch which divides the restaurant into two bright dining rooms. The quality interior has lots of hardwood walls and modern paintings, dense beams in the ceiling, large windows, tiled floor, flowers, candlelights and yellow table linen. In addition to the carte there are several four- and five-course menus.
• Antipasto misto di pesce Vecia Cavana = red shrimps and two varieties of gray prawns, half an octopus and sliced squid.
• Insalata di polipi e sedano = celery and octopus salad.
• Penette di grancio = crab pasta.
• Insalata mista = mixed salad with lots of red-leaved endives.
• Gamberi imperiali alla griglia = four grilled large prawns.
• Filetto di San Pietro = grilled St Peter’s fish.
• Parmigiano e gorgonzola = parmesan and blue Gorgonzola cheese.
• Macedonia di frutta fresca = sliced fresh fruit with whipped cream.
Agli Alboretti
Rio Terra Sant’Agnese. Dorsoduro 882. Phone: 523 0058. Hours: Closed lunch & Wednesday. Price: L.150000 ($95) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A gourmet restaurant of experimental menus in an a creaky, old building at the side of the main museum in Venice, Accademia. From the boat landing in front of the museum we walk to the left of the museum. The place is in that street, alongside an hotel with the same name, about 100 meters from the landing.
This is a rather plain hotel dining room with dense beams in the ceiling, furniture of quality, including lathed chairs, white walls and gallery posters on the walls, a tiled floor and blue linen. When we were there last time an Israeli week was on, with old Hebrew recipes from the Italian book: “La cucina nelli tradizione ebraica”.
• Uova ripiene de avocado = poached egg whites, filled with avocado puré, served with chopped tomato and cucumber.
• Falaffel con houmus e theina = hot and round pea dumplings, crisp outside and soft inside, with whole cooked onions and puréed sesame seeds.
• Zuppa di pesce = seafood soup.
• Mazzancolle in salsa verde = large prawns in green sauce.
• Avocado gratinado con scampi e curry = gratinated and curried avocado with scampi.
• Carciofi alla giudia = artichokes fried in oil in the Jewish manner.
• Gnochi de zucca con ricotta affumicata = pumpkin dumplings with smoked ricotta cheese.
• Arista di aiale al latte = roasted pork loin in milk sauce.
• Manzo a la greca = cooked beef cuts with pumpkins and artichokes.
• Selvaggina di valle in salme = lagoon game stew.
• Frutta di stagione = apple, pear and kiwi.
• Golosità al Muffato della Sala = hard Venetian cookies soaked in Muffato della Sala wine.
• The coffee of the house served in a glass.
Agli Amici
Calle Botteri, 1544. Phone: 524 1309. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.105000 ($66) for two. No cards. (B1).
In the San Polo district, abou 400 meters from Ponte Rialto. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Ai Gondolieri
Fondamenta Zorzi Bragadini, Dorsoduro 366. Phone: 528 6396. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (B2).
An engaging restaurant in an old building in a nice place in Dorsoduro, on the way between Accademia and Santa Salute, about 300 meters from Accademia. From the boat landing we go to the left of Accademia and turn left at signposts for the Cini and Guggenheim museums. When we come to the canal Rio della Torreselle we turn right and cross a bridge to the restaurant door.
From the entrance bar there are a few steps up to a small and busy dining room with a terrazzo floor and gallery posters on fully paneled walls, with candles and flower arrangements. In front there is a table with tempting desserts. A wide vase of glass, full of raw, uncut and colorful vegetables is served while waiting. Groups are put into a tight room off the bar.
• Sformati = raw vegetables, two types of pepper, cuccumber, chicory, celery etc.
• Petto de pollo tartufo con radiccio = chicken breast with truffles, chicory and tiny tomatoes.
• Tagliere de polenta con funghi freschi = corn puré pasta with mushrooms.
• Risotto di secole = chopped beef on fried rice Venice styles.
• Verdure freschedi stagione = mixed salad of various vegetables.
• Specialità del giorno = lightly salted leg of lamb with lightly vinegary sauerkraut and a clear vegetable sauce.
• Filetto de angus ai ferri = broiled filet of beef.
• Scelta di formaggi freschi = hard cheeses, grana and taleggio.
• Varietà di dolci della casa = desserts from the cart.
Al Campiello
Calle dei Fuseri, San Marco 4346. Phone: 520 6396. Fax: 520 6396. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.180000 ($114) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A restaurant for theatergoers between Piazza San Marco and Ponte Rialto, about 300 meters from the piazza, near the Fenice and Goldoni theaters, named after the best known comedy of Goldoni. From the west end of Piazza San Marco we walk to the shopping street Frezzeria, turn into it, cross a bridge and continue on Calle dei Fuseri, where we turn left into an alley.
The modern restaurant is in three parts with openings between them. Pink and lightly brown wallpapers cover the empty-looking walls between a few modern paintings. The walls are lined with soft benches. Comfortable and solid chairs with curved backs are on the green terrazzo floor. Servants in black smoking jackets know their profession.
• Polenta con porcini e gorgonzola = mushrooms with corn puré, mixed with blue-veined gorgonzola cheese.
• Mazzancolle con porcini all’aceto balsamico = large prawns with porcini mushrooms and spiced vinegar.
• Risotto di seppie = squid on pan-fried rice.
• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver with onion and corn puré in Venice style.
• Insalata capricciosa = mixed salad.
• Coda di rospo alla siciliana = pan-fried angler with pan-fried vegetables, tomato, olives and potatoes.
• Rombo alla griglia = grilled turbot.
• Frutta fresca di stagione = diced melons and pears.
• Dolci al carrello = desserts from the cart.
Al Conte Pescaor
Piscina San Zulian, San Marco 544. Phone: 522 1483. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (C2).
A lively romantic seafood restaurant near Piazza San Marco, 200 meters from the piazza. We walk along the north side of San Marco and turn left into Calle dei Specchiere, pass the back side of San Zulian and continue onwards until we arrive at the place. It is in two buildings and on a porch in front of one of them. We go into the other house.
Tempting first course carts inside the entrance lead to a clean restaurant of two rooms at an angle, with light walls, beautifully decorated with antique household things. Enchanting chandeliers of wrought iron are over the tables, multicolor tiles on the floor and white linen on the tables. Guests sit at benches along the walls, on lathed chairs or in wooden bays.
• Gamberetti olio e limone = red shrimp in oil and lemon juice.
• Cicale di mare e cappesante = mantis prawns and scallops.
• Zuppa di pesce e crostini = fish and shellfish soup.
• Risotto con gli scampi = scampi on pan-fried rice.
• Insalata verde = green salad.
• Orata ai ferri = pan-fried gilthead.
• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi.
• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver with onion and corn puré in Venice style.
• Macedonia di frutta fresca = diced fresh fruit.
Al Graspo de Ua
Calle Bombaseri, San Marco 5094. Phone: 520 0150. Fax: 523 3917. Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A busy and a lively restaurant a few steps from the Rialto bridge. From its southern side we cross the eastern bank and walk directly into the Bembola alley and take a right turn into the next alley. Inside there is a food buffet with cooked and uninteresting vegetables in warm containers. A cooler with raw vegetables, fruit and desserts is more interesting.
The dining area is on platforms around the buffet, opening into the kitchen beside the entrance. Hanging wine racks and large black beams painted with golden sayings characterize the place. Two walls are covered with parquet, lots of small paintings cover another wall. Otherwise the place is decorated with paintings and incidental photos. Waiters are efficient and informal.
• Avocado con gamberetti in salsa rosa = avocado and shrimp in mild tomato sauce.
• Granceola de bragoseto al limone = crab with lemon.
• Tagliolini alla pescatora = shellfish pasta.
• Insalatina = salad.
• Coda di rospo al forno = baked angler with white potatoes and baked tomato.
• Sogliola di porto ai ferri = baked soli in port wine.
• Frutta del bosco = raspberries and blackberries.
• Sacher mandorla = Austrian chocolate cake.
Alla Madonna
Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594. Phone: 522 3824. Fax: 521 0167. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.115000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A very good and busy restaurant, popular with locals, only 100 meters off Rialto bridge. We walk from the west bridgehead to the left along Riva del Vin and turn right into an alley, where the restaurant is on the left hand side.
People sit tight in several crowded, small rooms. The place is simple, with lots of paintings on the bright walls, comfortable chairs and white linen. Quick and knowledgeable waiters must thread roundabouts between the tables where noisy customers are all talking at the same time. The atmosphere is appetizing.
• Gamberetti = red shrimp in oil and lemon juice.
• Zuppa di pesce = fish soup.
• Sarde in saor = sardines in vinegar.
• Risotto pescatore = seafood on fried rice.
• Pasta e fagioli = pasta and peas.
• Insalata mista di stagione = mixed salad of the season.
• Rospo alla griglia = grilled angler.
• Rombo alla griglia = grilled turbot.
• Macedonia di frutta = diced fresh fruit.
Antica Bessetta
Calle Savio, San Polo 1395. Phone: 72 1687. Hours: Closed Tuesday & Wednesday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. No cards. (A1).
One of the best and nicest restaurants is remotely situated in San Polo, about 200 meters from the Riva del Biasio boat landing.
From the landing we walk the bank to the left to its end, turn right and walk Rio Terrà to its end, turn right again and then immediately left into Salizzada Zusto. The restaurant is in the corner where the street meets Calle Savio.
The Volpe couple runs the place, she in the kitchen and he in the clean and simple dining room, where dozens of various paintings decorate the walls. She cooks in traditional Venetian style. There is no menu and Mr. Volpe, who speaks almost no English, explains what is currently available. It is an unforgettable experience to devour whole spider-like soft-shelled crabs.
• Antipasto misto di pesce = two types of shellfish, shrimp, two small octopuses, squid slices and a sardine.
• Risotto al pesce = shellfish on fried rice.
• Moleche = deep-fried soft-shelled crab, a Venetian specialty.
• Insalata mista = mixed salad.
• Rospo ai ferri = baked angler.
• Brizzola alla griglia = grilled sea bass.
• Tiramisù = Venetian coffee cheesecake with cocoa.
• Frutta fresca di stagione = fresh fruit of the season.
Antica Carbonera
Calle Bembo, San Marco 4648. Phone: 522 5479. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.125000 ($79) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A lively and popular eatery about 200 meters from the Rialto bridge. From the eastern bridgehead we walk south on the Riva del Ferro bank and turn left into Calle Bembo, where the restaurant is on the right side. A loaded food buffet greets visitors at the entrance.
Behind the buffet and to the left are the tables, some of them in bays on platforms along the walls and others on the middle of the floor. The bay sitting is vertical and rather uncomfortable, but the chairs are comfortable. Quality wood reaches up to photos of visiting personalities and accidental paintings. Old, limping and charming waiters are relaxed and familial.
• Granceola = spider crab in a shell, with lemon and red cabbage.
• Gamberetti alla limone = red shrimp with lemon.
• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi in the shell.
• Risotto di pesce = shellfish on fried rice.
• Spaghetti alla seppie = squid on spaghetti.
• Legume di stagione = various pan-fried vegetables.
• Coda di rospo alla griglia = grilled angler.
• Rognoncino trifolato = chopped kidneys in wine.
• Fegato alla veneziana = calf liver and onion.
• Parmigiano = parmesan cheese.
• Frutta fresca = apple, pear and clementines.
Antica Locanda Montin
Fondamenta di Borgo, Dorsoduro 1147. Phone: 522 7151. Fax: 520 0255. Hours: Closed Tuesday & Wednesday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (A2).
Well-known and off the beaten track, but in spite of that only 400 meters from the major Accademia museum. From the Accademia boat landing we walk a signposted track to Piazzale Roma in the west. After about 300 meters there is a signposted alley to the left to the Rio della Eremite canal, where we turn left along the canal to reach the restaurant.
The charming dining room is elongated. Behind the far end there is a garden for outdoor dining in good weather. Bright walls above the panel are covered with rows of paintings. There is pink linen on the tiny tables that are moved asunder or together according to the size of incoming companies. The service is good. The minus is the owner’s family hanging about the table at the bar.
• Granceola all’olio e limone = shredded crab, mixed with vegetables, olive oil and lemon, served in a shell.
• Insalata di gamberoni e rucola = shrimp salad.
• Rigatoni ai quattro formaggi = pasta with four types of cheese.
• Insalata mista = lots of mixed salad.
• Branzino ai ferri = pan-fried sea bass.
• Orata della corona ai ferri = pan-fried gilthead.
• Bocconcini di pollo al curry con riso = chopped chicken in curry on rice.
• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and grana cheeses.
• Macedonia di frutta fresca = apple, grapes and kiwi.
• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake flavored with coffee.
Antico Martini
Campo San Fantin, 1983. Phone: 522 4121. Fax: 528 9857. Price: L.230000 ($145) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Well-known luxury restaurant beside the entrance to the Fenice opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Antico Pignolo
Calle dei Specchieri, 451. Phone: 522 8123. Fax: 520 9007. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (C2).
A few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Arcimboldo
Calle dei Furlani, Castello 3219. Phone: 528 6569. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.190000 ($120) for two. All major cards. (C2).
Amusingly furnished and remote restaurant about a kilometer from Palazzo Ducale. We walk on the Riva degli Schiavoni promenade about 600 meters to the Pietà church. Beyond it we turn left and continue northward along several alleys until we reach Calle del Lion, where we turn right and continue over a bridge into Calle dei Furlani.
The walls are decorated with oversized replicas of paintings by Arcimboldo, who did human faces in the likeness of vegetables and fruit in the 16th C. Green and soft sofas line the walls. The ceiling is green and the linen is pink. A buffet table in the middle of the tiled floor is loaded with desserts and appetizers. Service is professional and good, the guests are Italian.
• Scampi in saor = marinated scampi with sauerkraut.
• Folpetti alla veneziana = octopus soup.
• Zuppa di cozze e vongole in crosta = shellfish soup with toast.
• Insalata verde = green salad.
• Branzino alla griglia = grilled sea bass with grilled aubergine, pumpkin and red pepper.
• Sogliola ai ferri = pan-fried sole.
• Sorbetto alla frutta = fruit sorbet.
• Frutti = fresh fruit plate.
Bruno
Calle del Paradiso, 5731. Phone: 522 1480. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.90000 ($57) for two. All major cards. (C1).
Near the Santa Maria Formosa square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Cantinone Storico
San Vio, 660/661. Phone: 523 9577. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. All major cards. (B2).
About 100 meters from the Accademia museum in the Dorsoduro district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Cipriani
Isola della Giudecca 10. Phone: 520 7744. Fax: 520 3930. Price: L.340000 ($215) for two. All major cards. 92 rooms. (C2).
The best hotel restaurant in town, on the island of Giudecca on the far side of the San Marco lagoon. From the Zitelle boat landing we walk to the left on the bank almost to its end and turn right into an alley to the hotel, which is on the eastern tip, opposite the San Giorgio Maggiore island. We can also sail directly to the hotel with the hotel boat or a water taxi.
The hotel is reserved and unassuming on the outside and opulent on the inside. Dinner is served in a dignified and mirrored dining room in the southern end of the hotel and lunch is served in the open on a platform at the peaceful swimming pool garden. The atmosphere is quiet and the service is unusually courteous.
• Crespelle ai asparagi e taleggio = pancake with fresh asparagus and taleggio cheese.
• Cozze in salsa piccante = scallops in anchovy and white wine sauce.
• Tagliatelle con salsa di noci = pasta with walnut sauce.
• Sogliole al marsala = butter-fried sole in Marsala red wine.
• Nocette di agnello = pan-roasted lamb.
• Sorbetto di frutta = fruit sorbet.
• Fragole di bosco con panna = wild strawberries with cream.
Corte Sconta
Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886. Phone: 522 7024. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (C2).
A plain looking gastronomic temple for local Venetians in a remote location about 1 km from Palazzo Ducale. We walk the Riva degli Schiavoni promenade past the Pietà church and cross the next bridge, pass the long front of the maritime palace, turn left into Calle del Forno and its continuation in Calle del Pestrin, which we walk all the way to the restaurant on the right side.
A few tables are behind the front bar, some more in a parallel room and most in a room to the back of that. The place looks down-market but clean. The old tables are bare, with paper napkins. The walls are bare above the black paneling. There is no menu and the hostess orders some house wine for the table when she describes the main courses of the day.
• Zuppa di vongole = shell soup.
• Antipasto misto di pesce = grilled seafood, including two types of sardines, scampi, red shrimp, octopus and squid cuts.
• Gnochi di gamberetti e asparagi = pasta with shrimp and asparagus dumplings.
• Insalata mista = mixed salad.
• Secundo = large prawns, sole and angler, grilled.
• Triglie alla griglia = grilled red mullet.
• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake.
• Grana = hard, Italian cheese with red currants.
• The house coffee served in glass.
Da Mario – alla Fava
Calle Stagneri, 5242. Phone: 528 5147. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (B1).
About 100 meters from the Rialto bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Da Silvio
Calle San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3748-3818. Phone: 520 5833. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A2).
An unrefined neighborhood restaurant for local gourmets on the street between the churches San Pantalon and Frari. From the latter we walk the second alley to the left of Scuola Grande di San Rocco for about 100 meters, almost all the way to San Pantalon, to find the restaurant on the left side.
The front dining room is simple, small and cozy, with good paneling, but the inner one is rather bare. Behind the rooms there is a garden with a few tables. The linen is white and the napkins are of paper.
• Sfilacci di cavallo = red threads of spiced sausages with salad.
• Breasola con scaglie di parmigiano = dried salt beef with grana cheese from Parma.
• Spaghetti alla vongole = shellfish on spaghetti.
• Insalata capricciosa = fresh salad.
• Sogliola ai ferri = pan-fried sole.
• Braciola ai ferri = pan-fried cutlets.
• Scaloppe parmigiana = escalopes of veal with melted cheese.
• Frutta di stagione al pezzo = two varieties of apple, mandarines and grapes.
• Parmigiano = parmesan.
Do Forni
Calle dei Specchieri, San Marco 457/468. Phone: 523 7729. Fax: 528 8132. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (C2).
Well-known restaurant in two rooms near Piazza San Marco. We walk along the north side of San Marco and turn left into Calle dei Specchiere which leads us to the restaurant.
One of the rooms is rustic, with antiques on the walls, the other is modern and simple in design. Service is quick and rather good but suffers from the size of the establishment. A drink is on the house at the beginning of the meal and sweet biscuits at the end.
• Prosciutto San Daniele = raw San Danieli ham.
• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish with corn puré.
• Risotto di frutti di mare = seafood on pan-fried rice.
• Tagliolini all’astice = pasta with lobster sauce.
• Insalata verde = green salad.
• Scampi giganti alla griglia = grilled scampi.
• Branzino al forno con patate = oven-fried sea bass with potatoes.
• Lamponi = raspberries.
Fiaschetteria Toscana
San Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5719. Phone: 528 5281. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A good and charming restaurants on the way between Rialto and Ferrovia, about 300 meters from the Rialto bridge. We walk from the eastern bridgehead on a signposted route to Ferrovia. After 300 meters we come to San Crisostomo, which is approximately opposite the restaurant.
The preferable ground floor has lively furnishings. A buffet with starters, desserts and wine is at the entrance. The tables are on both sides and behind the buffet. A row of columns divides the place in parts. Many small paintings are grouped together in frames on the walls. The waiters are divergent, some are not above insisting that the flour sauce is the black butter you ordered.
• Moscardini con polenta = small octopuses in fish sauce on corn puré.
• Schie condite con polenta = gray shrimp with corn puré.
• Rombo al burro nero e capperi = pan-fried turbot with black butter, capers and potatoes.
• Caparozzoli alla marinara = shellfish with parsley and garlic.
• Tagliolini con la granzeola = crab on pasta.
• Anguilla alla griglia = grilled eel.
• Filetto al barolo = beef filled spiced with red Barolo wine from Piemont.
• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and montasio cheeses.
• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee.
Fiore
Calle del Scaleter, 2202. Phone: 72 1308. Fax: 72 1343. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).
In the middle of the San Polo district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Galuppi
Via Galuppi, Burano. Phone: 73 0081. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards.
A lively, popular restaurant on the main street on Burano. From the boat landing we walk a very short street to the main street that leads to the left to the church. The restaurant is midways on the right side.
A long and narrow, clean-cut and heavily decorated with paintings. Guests sit mainly in bays with plastic seats. In spite of the tourists in the street most of the customers are local.
• Gamberi = prawn in oil and lemon.
• Scampi e calamari fritto = deep-fried scampi and squid.
• Risi e bisi = thick Venetian soup with ham, onion, peas, rice and grana cheese.
• Tagliatelle verdi con funghi = green pasta with mushrooms.
• Polenta e fontina in torta = oven-baked layers of corn puré and cheese.
• Polipo alla luciana = poached octopus.
• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee and topped with cocoa.
Giardinetto da Severino
Ruga Giuffa, 4928. Phone: 528 5332. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (C2).
A garden restaurant between San Zaccharia and Palazzo Querini Stampalia. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Gritti
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467. Phone: 79 4611. Fax: 520 0942. Price: L.280000 ($177) for two. All major cards. 93 rooms. (B2).
A venerable restaurant in an old palace hotel on the Canal Grande, about 100 meters from the Santa Maria del Giglio boat landing. We walk the alley from the bank, turn right at the first opportunity and then again right.
Along the whole front of the hotel there is a broad tea verandah on the Canal Grande. Behind it the dignified dining room is in Rococo style. Chairs, frames and chandeliers are matching. The dense beams are decoratively painted and there is gleaming marble on the floor. Guests sit on deep cushions in easy-chairs at tables with white linen. Service is extremely civilized.
• La breasola con rucoletta e cetriolo = air dried beef with rucola salad and small cucumber cubes.
• Il capricio di mozzarella con pomodoro e basilic fresco = mozzarella cheese with tomato and fresh basil.
• Il risotto al nero di seppia = black octopus sauce on fried rice.
• Le insalate preparate del carrello = salad mixed at the trolley.
• Gli scampi al forno con carciofi = butter-fried scampi with white potatoes, string beans and artichokes.
• I calamari al vapore con sedano, cetrioli e crema di melanzane = steamed calamari with celery, cucumber and eggplant cream.
• La pescatrice alla brace con verdure e salsa tatara = grilled angler with fried vegetables and tartare sauce.
• Frutti di bosco = wild strawberries, cultivated strawberries and cherries with cream.
• Semifreddo alle zabaione = ice cream with whipped egg yolks mixed with Marsala red wine.
Harry’s Bar
Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323. Phone: 528 5777. Fax: 520 8822. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.360000 ($227) for two. All major cards. (B2).
The most famous bar in the world is also a restaurant, a few steps from the southwest corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk into Salizzada San Moisè and turn left into the first alley. The bar is on the waterfront on the left side. The atmosphere of the place is based on its position in American literature and on the Venetian aristocracy which has adopted it as its own.
Rich Venetians outnumber American travelers who are reviving Hemingway’s: “Across the River and Into the Trees”. We prefer to dine at the coffee-tables downstairs at the simple and unassuming bar rather than in the pedestrian and crowded dining rooms upstairs. Incidental travelers are well received and are not made to feel second class.
• Spremuta di pesce = pressed fish juice.
• Asparagi = green asparagus with egg sauce.
• Carpaccio alla Cipriani = marinated beef of the house.
• Tagliolini con prosciutto = pasta with smoked ham.
• Tagliatelle seppie = pasta with squid.
• Tournedos rossini = beef tournedos with goose liver paté.
Hemingway: “Then he was pulling open the door of Harry’s bar and was inside and had made it again, and was at home” (Across the River and Into the Trees).
La Caravella
Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2396. Phone: 520 8901. Price: L.200000 ($126) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A sumptuous dining room in the best location in town, on the main street between the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco in the direction of Accademia bridge. It is on the right side where it is widest and the fashion shops most expensive. It is advisable to book well in advance.
An imitation of an aristocratic dining room in a Venetian galley, completely clothed in hardwood, with marine antiques on the walls, leaded windows, a rudder and a mast, a compass and a bell in the middle. It is usually packed and people wait at the bar to be seated. Waiters run back and forth in a perfect serving organization. This is a fine place and not extremely costly.
• La zuppe di pesce alla pescatora = clear seafood soup with shellfish, shrimp and fish.
• La breasola della valtellina con rucola = dried salt beef with salad.
• Le linguine alle cappesante = scallops on pasta.
• I gnochette al gorgonzola = dumplings of gorgonzola blue-veined cheese.
• Insalata servita con crostacei e pesce = traditional mixed salad.
• Gli scampi giganti ai ferri salsa lucifero = oven-baked giant prawns.
• Il rombo ai ferri al burro fuso e capperi = oven-baked turbot with white potatoes.
• Il filetto di bue all’arancio alla bigarade = beef filet with orange rind sauce.
• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and bel paese cheeses.
• Il sottobosco di stagione = five different kinds of wild berries.
• Il gelato allo champagne = champagne ice cream.
La Colomba
Piscina di Frezzeria, San Marco 1665. Phone: 522 1175. Fax: 522 1468. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.270000 ($170) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A dignified restaurant with paintings by modern artists near Piazza San Marco. From the west end of the piazza we walk 50 meters west to Frezzeria, turn right into that street and then left into Campo di Piscina, which soon changes its name to Piscina di Frezzeria, where the restaurant is on the right side.
The quality furnishings are tasteful and comfortable. Large paintings dominate the walls in the dining rooms. In front there are several tables on the pavement. Service is professional and well-dressed.
• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish, mixed with eggs and herbs, served with pan-fried corn puré.
• Seppioline alla griglia con polenta = grilled squid with pan-fried corn puré.
• Tagliolini con scampi e zucchine = pasta with scampi prawns and zucchini.
• Legumi di stagione = salad of the season.
• Coda di rospo alla Colomba = pan-fried angler.
• Tagliata di bue con verdure alla griglia = grilled beef fillet with grilled potato slices, egg plant, pumpkin and tomato.
• Frutta di stagione = fresh fruit of the season.
• Macedonia di frutta fresca = diced fresh fruit of the season.
La Fenice
Campiello de la Fenice. Phone: 522 3856. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: L.250000 ($158) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Indoor and outdoor restaurant on a small square alongside the Fenice theater, in the same building as a hotel with the same name, about 500 meters from the southwest corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk Salizzada San Moisè and then Calle larga 22 Marzo, where we turn right into Calle delle Veste to Campo San Fantin in front of the theater. Finally we go to the right of the theater.
The restaurant is well-known, rather large and predictable in furnishings. A large part of it is outdoor, where guests have more space. Service is rather unorganized, with everybody milling around, trying to be useful.
• Gamberetti di laguna = shrimp in oil and lemon.
• Contorni insalate = mixed salad.
• Tournedos all’americana = beef filet sheathed in ham.
• Dolci dal carrello = desserts from the trolley.
La Furatola
Calle lunga Santa Barnaba. Dorsoduro 2870a. Phone: 520 8594. Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. No cards. (A2).
A very good neighborhood eatery in Dorsoduro, about 400 meters from the Ca’Rezzonico boat landing. From the landing we walk Calle dei Traghetto to the Campo San Barnaba square and directly onwards on Calle lunga Santa Barnaba, where the restaurant hides on the right side.
Interesting photos from old Venice line the walls between all kinds of antiques. The far end of the dining room opens into the kitchen where Bruno takes care of the cooking and from where the good smells emanate. Sandro is in the dining room taking care of the guests. The linen is yellow. In front there are first courses on a buffet. Sandro shows us the fish on offer today.
• Canoice, gamberetti, polpielle = large prawns, red shrimp, octopus and fish cuts, served cold.
• Spaghetti con salsa di pesce = fish cuts in brown fish sauce on spaghetti.
• Insalate miste di stagione = mixed green salad of the season.
• Orata alla griglia = grilled gilthead, sold by weight.
• Branzino alla griglia = grilled sea bass, sold by weight.
• Il formaggio delle colline venete = a choice of cheeses from the Veneto and Friuli districts.
• La frutta di stagione = fresh fruits of the season.
Locanda Cipriani
Torcello. Phone: 73 0150. Fax: 73 5433. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.220000 ($139) for two. All major cards.
World famous and unassuming gourmet temple in the greenery on the way from the Torcello boat landing to the ancient Santa Maria dell’Assunta. The restaurant sends a motor boat for you to Piazza San Marco, bringing you out in 35 minutes. The scheduled boat takes longer but suits well for a day’s outing in Torcello.
This is primarily convenient for lunch. The dining area is mainly in a large garden behind the kitchen, alongside the famous herb and vegetable garden of the house. In front of the kitchen there is a simple bar for tired travelers who have been inspecting the antique remains on the island. There is a good view from the dining garden to the main attraction of the island.
• Fritto misto = deep-fried mixed seafood.
• Risotto alla Torcello = vegetables from the garden on pan-fried rice.
• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi.
• Rombo ai ferri = pan-fried turbot.
• Crostata di frutti = fruit pie.
Nico
Piscina di Frezzeria, 1702. Phone: 522 1543. Fax: 522 1543. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.135000 ($85) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Between Piazza San Marco and Teatro Fenice. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Poste Vecie
Pescheria di Rialto, San Polo 1608. Phone: 72 1822. Fax: 91 3955. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).
Combines popularity and quality, well situated just in front of the fish market, Pescheria, about 400 meters from the western bridgehead of Rialto. From the bridge we walk along the market streets Ruga degli Orefici and Ruga degli Speziali to Pescheria and from there over a private bridge to the door of the restaurant.
There are two cozy dining rooms, one of them with a large fireplace. A row of frescos are above the high paneling. Service is excellent.
• Fritto misto di mare = deep-fried mixed seafood.
• Vongole alla marinare = shellfish with parsley and garlic.
• Tagliolini di pesce = seafood pasta.
• Baccalà alla vicentina = oven-baked stockfish with onion, tomato, cucumber, capers and olives.
• Rombo al forno = oven-baked turbot.
• Dolci al carrello = desserts from the trolley.
Rivetta
Ponte San Provolo, Castello 4625. Phone: 528 7302. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. No cards. (C2).
One of the most charming and liveliest neighborhood restaurants for the local population is hidden under a bridgehead behind the Danieli hotel. From the lagoon promenade Riva degli Schiavoni we walk to the left of the old main palace of the hotel into Calle delle Rasse and turn right into Salizzada San Provolo. We will find the place to the right of the first bridge.
As reservations are not accepted there are often crowds at the entrance. People wait for seating and sip white wine, courtesy of the host. The dining area is tight with tables and chairs, but clean and bright, with light paneling and lots of paintings on the walls, and multicolored art deco chandeliers. The prices are the lowest of gourmet restaurants in town.
• Antipasto di pesce = marinated seafood; two types of shrimp, herring, sardine, octopus, squid and two types of fish.
• Pasta e fagioli = peas in pasta.
• Spaghetti al nero di seppia = black spaghetti with octopus sauce.
• Insalata mista = mixed salad.
• Gamberoni ai ferri = large shrimp grilled on skewers.
• Scampi griglia = grilled scampi.
• Costata di bue alle griglia = grilled beef entrecote.
• Scaloppe di vitello al marsala = calf escalopes in Marsala red wine.
• Formaggi = taleggio, gorgonzola and grana cheeses.
• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee.
Terrazza
Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Price: L.270000 ($170) for two. All major cards. (C2).
A dignified restaurant with a lagoon view on the top floor of the historical Danieli hotel, about 100 meters from Palazzo Ducale.
The room is L-shaped, simple and noble, white and airy, with large windows and a balcony. A thick carpet covers the floor and Venetian rococo chandeliers decorate the ceiling. The restaurant offers luxury food and luxury service at luxury prices in the Danieli style.
• Medaglioni di astice su soncino all’olio di tartufo = medallions of lobster over greens with truffle oil.
• Insalatina di carciofi rucola e code di scampi = salad of artichoke and rocket with scampi tails.
• Vermicelli alle vongole veraci = spaghetti with clams.
• Tagliatelle alla buranella = gratinated egg noodles with fillets of sole, shrimps and béchamel sauce.
• Risotto del pescatore = seafood on pan-fried risotto.
• Tortino caldo di verdure e ricotta su salsa di pomodoro = warm vegetable pie with ricotta cheese served over tomato sauce.
• Varietà di insalate miste = a variety of salads and lettuce.
• Scampi giganti al profumo di prezzemolo = scampi with parsley.
• Grigliata di pesci e crostacei dell’Adriatico = grilled fish and shellfish from the Adriatic Sea.
• Ventaglio di manzo al dragoncello = thinly sliced sirloin steak with tarragon sauce.
• Carrello di formaggi assortiti = cheese trolley.
• Carrello dei dolci = dessert trolley.
• Crespelle del doge alla fiamma = flambéed pancakes.
Tiepolo
Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Phone: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Price: L.240000 ($152) for two. All major cards. (B2).
The dignified dining room of the Europe e Regina hotel, with large windows to Canal Grande. From the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco we walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and immediately turn left through an unmarked alley past the gondoliers to get to the hotel entrance. Opposite the reception a smoking room leads to the dining room.
The restaurant is stylish and bright, decorated with plants. Service is very good as is to be expected in this high price class. By ordering the menu of the day we can bring the price down to L. 15000 for two.
• Affettato di cervo e cinghiale affumicato = cold cuts of smoked stag and wild-boar.
• Breasola della valtellina con rucola e spicchi di pompelmo = salted beef with rocket and grapefruit.
• Bigoli in salsa = Venetian spaghetti with onions and anchovy sauce.
• Tagliolini verdi al granchio = green noodles with crab.
• Insalatine degli orti veneti = green salad from the Venetian islands.
• Filetti di orata al tartufo nero = fillets of gilt-head with black truffle.
• Tagliata de manzo ai profumi di stagione = fillet of beef with seasonal vegetables.
• Scelta di formaggi tipici del carrello = cheeses of the region from the trolley.
• Assortimento di frutta di stagione = fruits of the season.
Vini da Gigio
Fondamenta di Chiesa, Cannaregio 3628a. Phone: 528 5140. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).
An engaging and homey neighborhood restaurant in the Cannaregio district, a few steps from the trail between Ferrovia and Rialto, Strada Nova, about 1 km from Rialto. When we come to the San Felice church we turn right alongside the church and come directly to the restaurant.
It is so popular that it fills up as soon as it is opened for lunch. Most guests seem to know the staff and greet with Italian heartiness. dining is in a few simple and clean rooms. One of them opens into the kitchen. There are ancient beams in the ceiling and stone tiles on the floor, just as in so many other Venetian restaurants.
• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish with grilled corn puré Venetian style.
• Cappesante alla veneziana = scallops served in shells with herb butter.
• Antipasto di verdure = a vegetable starter.
• Insalata mista = mixed salad.
• Anguilla alla griglia = grilled eel with lemon and corn puré.
• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver and onion with corn puré.
• Filetto di manzo = beef fillet slices.
• Castelmagno con miele di Corbezzolo = honey cake of the house.
• Fantasia di formaggi = five cheeses.
1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson
