Bistro la Forge
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26. Phone: 624 0095. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (A3).
A few steps from the lively Leidseplein square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Blauwe Parade
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178. Phone: 624 0047. Fax: 622 0240. Price: DFl.90 ($54) for two. All major cards. (B1).
Good value at the Port van Cleve hotel, with delftware, a few steps from the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bols Taverne
Rozengracht 106. (A2).
This tasting local of the biggest jenever company is a combined pub and restaurant near Westerkerk and Anne Frank Huis, offering at least 100 different spirits. It has some garden tables outside. The offerings of the day are chalked on billboards. This place is unusually bright and unusually free of dust.

Café Roux
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197. Phone: 555 3560. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B2).
In the charming Grand hotel, in the university district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Chez Georges
Herenstraat 3. Phone: 626 3332. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. All major cards. (A1).
A French restaurant near the Anne Frank house. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Christophe
Leliegracht 46. Phone: 625 0807. Fax: 638 9132. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.220 ($132) for two. All major cards. (A1).
A simple, split-level dining room behind huge shop windows, offering some of the best French cuisine in Amsterdam, 500 meters from Dam square. Jean-Christophe Royer from Toulouse cooks in the style of Southwestern France.
The softly pink walls are bare and the tables are unusually well spaced, enhancing a feeling of emptiness, if it were not for the huge flower arrangement in the middle. This is a culinary temple, not a decoration temple. Three menus, a four-course menu for DFl. 95, a three-course menu for DFl. 75 and a four-course vegetarian menu for DFl. 75.
• Wild mushroom paté with green vegetable sauce.
• Softly grilled salmon on green beans and red tomato sauce.
• Sweetbreads on stewed duck with mashed potatoes.
• Pear and raspberry soup with red wine sorbet.

Dynasty
Reguliersdwarsstraat 30. Phone: 626 8400. Fax: 622 3038. Hours: Closed Tuesday & January. Price: DFl.210 ($126) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A classy and smart Chinese spot in a quality restaurant street leading off Leidsestraat, with an open-air terrace in the back.
It is decorated with lots of parasols, matching paintings on the walls, busloads of flowers, showy curtains and carpets and a nice table service. The service is exemplary. The offerings are less standard and more interesting than those at the run-of-the-mill Chinese places, also relatively expensive.
There is a variety of set menus, offering samples of Chinese and also Thai and Vietnamese cooking. The good wine list fits the cuisine.

Edo
Dam 9. Phone: 554 6096. Fax: 639 3146. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (B2).
On a long shopping corridor behind the Krasnapolsky lobby, inside the hotel, offering Hibachi cooking, in which the chef stands at the guests’ table and does all the cooking from raw materials.
Guests sit on bar seats at a wooden table surrounding a stove on three sides. Seven can sit at each table. The materials arrive raw and sliced on trays. Then the cook starts his action, partly showing off. It inspires trust to see the gleaming, fresh food in front of you and to observe the simple pan-frying with as little oil as possible, retaining original flavors.
Lunch menus cost around DFl. 45, dinners around DFl. 70. The lunch menus can include items such as squid, coated in ginger and mustard sauce; fried onion and cucumber in garlic; scallops, mushrooms and prawns; beef slices, bean sprouts, paprika, potatoes, aubergines and rice with eggs. Everything is light on the stomach and correspondingly healthy.

Haesje Claes
Spuistraat 273. Phone: 624 9998. Fax: 627 4817. Price: DFl.85 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The premier Dutch restaurant in the city center has been a few steps from the Spui Square since the end of the 19th century. The Dutch even order here lots of hot chocolate with piles of whipped cream as a starter. Just forget calorie-counting.
This large restaurant, divided into smaller sections, is decorated in a cozy Dutch burgher style. The wood decorations are dark and heavy, partly carved. Frilled lampshades characterize the place, that is just as popular with traveling Dutchmen as it is with traveling foreigners who arrive here by the busloads.
• Kaassoufflé = cheese soufflé.
• Haring = herring.
• Kippensoep = chicken soup.
• Biefstuk = chopped beef.
• Hutspot = meat pot.
• Stoopwafels = waffels with syrup.

Indrapura
Rembrandtsplein 42. Phone: 623 7329. Fax: 622 3038. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B2).
It is at one of the main squares in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kantjil
Spuistraat 291. Phone: 620 0994. Fax: 623 2166. Price: DFl.95 ($57) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Comparatively inexpensive, plainly decorated, popular and authentic Indonesian restaurant in the city center, a few steps from the Historisch Museum, popular with young people.
It is large and divided into parts, including no-smoking areas. Furnishings are spare and no linen on tables. Service is good, though. Rijsttafel was priced at DFl. 40 upwards. Most people order something less, such as a luxury edition of Nasi Goreng at DFl. 20. The crispy prawn bread is abundant.
• Crispy prawn bread.
• Chicken soup with sliced egg.
• Rijsttafel = rice table.
• Nasi Goreng = small rice table.

Kopenhagen
Enge Kapelsteeg 1, Rokin 84. Phone: 624 9376. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A few steps from Rokin, 300 meters from Dam square, in a cellar with tiny windows. It offers rather good Danish cooking and as a special tourist menu at a reasonable price.
The decorations are eccentric. A comic strip on pirates is painted on the walls. Candles and oil lamps on the tables, rigging and tackle in the ceiling. This is the place for “smørrebrød”, Danish sandwiches, and for seafood rather than meat.
• Hovmestersild = a tray with six types of cured herring and smoked mackerel.
• Griet = Grilled brill with pan-fried potatoes and salad.
• Coffee with chocolate and mint.

Lucius
Spuistraat 247. Phone: 624 1831. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
A modern seafood restaurant very centrally located 400 meters from Dam. Its clientele consists mainly of young and cheerful people, served by equally young and cheerful people.
The dining room is long, with goldfish in aquariums. The menu is chalked on the walls among seafood posters. The tables are dense and the atmosphere is full of vitality. There is always one meat dish on the extensive menu.
• Trout paté with dill.
• Poached salmon with mushroom sauce and ham slices.
• Deep-fried cheese with almond flakes.
• Swordfish.

Manchurian
Leidseplein 10 a. Phone: 623 1330. Fax: 626 2105. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A2).
On the central Leidseplein itself, one of the best Chinese restaurants in the center. The large restaurant has a few tables in a glass enclosure on the pavement. It is heavily decorated in a Chinese way, including lanterns and complicated wall pictures.
The tables are luxuriously made up and the service is exemplary. A Chinese version of Rijsttafel offers 18 courses for DFl. 30. Other items are more interesting, such as a lotus and dates soup as a starter and a steamed sole with strange spices, served in the stock, as a main course.

Mirafiori
Hobbemastraat 2. Phone: 662 3013. Hours: Closed Tuesday dinner. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The best Italian eatery for several years, on the road from Leidseplein to Rijksmuseum, about 200 meters from the latter.
The mild paneling is old and simple as the worn parquet on the floor. White linen covers the worn tables. Dusty wine bottles are in cupboards and on shelves all over the place. A whole wall is covered with photos of Italian guests. Italian music was augmented by the singing of the waiters.
• Prosciutto crudo San Daniele = raw ham from the Venetian area, with salad and butter.
• Stracciatella alla romana = egg soup.
• Zuppa di pesce = fish soup, a Thursday and Friday specialty.
• Scaloppina al marsala = veal in marsala wine sauce.
• Osso Buco = stewed veal shank with rice.
• Saltimbocca = veal slices with ham, sage and wine.
• Bel Paese = smooth cheese.
• Gorgonzola = blue-veined cheese from Lombardy.
• Real Italian coffee.

Oesterbar
Leidseplein 10. Phone: 623 2988. Fax: 623 2199. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The traditional oyster bar is on the centrally located Leidseplein square, opposite the ballet and opera palace. There is a glass enclosure on the pavement in front of the restaurant. A conventional dining room is on the first floor, but the real action and atmosphere is on the ground floor.
The restaurant is coolly decorated with large, white porcelain tiles and seafood posters on the walls at one side of a narrow room; and large fish tanks at the other side. The service is Italian and efficient. The guests, mainly local people, sit in comfortable chairs on the marble floor or take a seat at the bar to watch the cooks at their work.
The long menu covers many types of fish. Simpler preparations are preferable to the more complicated ones. Try six oysters, pan-fried Dover Sole with lemon and hollandaise sauce and pan-fried potatoes; steamed turbot with white potatoes.

Pêcheur
Reguliersdwardstraat 32. Phone: 624 3121. Fax: 624 3121. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).
One of many restaurants in a street leading off pedestrian Leidsestraat, between Leidseplein and Konningsplein. It is the best seafood restaurant in central Amsterdam. The Dutch have always been a seafaring nation and have an affinity with seafood. Fish cooking is probably the best part of Dutch cooking traditions.
It is a comfortably small dining room with a French look, with a marble floor, parasols above mirrors, Art Noveau chandeliers, potted plants between tables, and comfortable cane chairs.
• Shrimp salad with small shrimp and avocado.
• Scallops with salmon caviar.
• Poached turbot.
• Steamed sole on pasta.
• White chocolate cake with mint sauce.
• Cinnamon ice cream with cranberry sauce.

Poort
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178-180. Phone: 624 4860. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. (B1).
The traditional steak and pea soup house in the city center, just behind the Royal Palace.
The large and airy dining room has been a restaurant since 1870. Before that it was a beer brewery. The wall paintings are from that time. The furnishings are suitably old-fashioned. The porcelain tiles from Delft are famous. The clientele is divided between the home team and the foreign team in equal numbers.
Sausages float in the pea soup in the Dutch manner. The beef steak is served with fried potatoes. Brussels sprouts and cauliflower are typical vegetables. Dessert may be a Dutch sand cake with vanilla ice cream, red currants and whipped cream.

Prinsenkelder
Prinsengracht 438. Phone: 626 7721. Hours: Closed Monday, lunch. Price: DFl.230 ($138) for two. All major cards. (A2).
In the cellar of the Dikker en Thijs confectionery shop on the pedestrian Leidsestraat, entered from the canal side.
It is a low and a narrow cellar room with marble on the floor, rustic furniture, beams, brass and copper, and excellent tableware. The dishes are beautifully arranged and taste like Nouvelle Cuisine.
• Fowl liver paté with berries.
• Partridge with salad.
• Dutch ewe cheese

Quatre Canetons
Prinsengracht 1111. Phone: 624 6307. Fax: 638 4599. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (B3).
For decades one of the best French restaurants in town, modern in design, situated 200 meters from Magere Brug on the Amstel.
The bar is at the front, then the kitchen and a spacious restaurants in the rear, divided into two parts by a light partition. The paintings are made to fit. The professional service is excellent and the food is delicious.
• Marbré van ganzelever en vijgen met Sauternes gelei op een kruidensalade = marbled terrine of foie gras with a fig in the center and Sauternes gelé.
• Gamba’s in een knapperig aardappelkontje, gegarnered met gefrituurde dille = prawns in a crispy jacket of grated potato threads, with deep-fried dill.
• Carpaccio van ganzelever en Schotze zalm met een salade van Opperdoejer aardappel, gegarnered met truffeldressing = carpaccio of foie d’oie and Scotch salmon with potato salad and truffle dressing.
• Gebakken zwegerich met gamba’s en roergebakken groenten = fried sweetbreads with prawns and stir-fried vegetables.
• Eendebost in gekaramelliseerde boter gebakken met een saus van gemarineerde peperframbozen = breast of duck sautéed in caramelized butter with a sauce of marinated pepper-rapsberries.
• Kleine selectie kaazen = Bresse de Bleau and Swiss cheese.
• Dessert Les Quatre Canetons = marinated plum pie.

Radèn Mas
Stadhouderskade 6. Phone: 685 4041. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.170 ($102) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The poshest scene for Indonesian feasts is almost beside the Marriott hotel, in the same block as Barbizon Centre, only 200 meters from Leidseplein. It one of the most extremely designed restaurant in Holland, covered with mirrors, with several floor levels, decorated in various green colors and looks like a fantasy.
The cutlery is sparkling golden and the service is of the highest class. Of course this is an expensive place, where a normal Rijsttafel costs DFl. 68. It tastes good, albeit a little more westernized than usual. There is a lot of style but less of substance, but you also come here mainly for the style.
• Rijsttafel.

Rive
Professor Tulpplein 1. Phone: 622 6060. Fax: 622 5808. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.270 ($162) for two. All major cards. (C3).
Luxury restaurant in the Amstel hotel, with canal view. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Road to Manila
Geldserkade 23. Phone: 638 4338. Price: DFl.80 ($48) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A Philippine restaurant on the edge of the red light district in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Roode Leeuw
Damrak 93. Phone: 555 0666. Fax: 620 4716. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A landmark of Dutch design and cooking, directly on the Damrak, a few steps from Dam square, famous for its 3-course menu of typical Dutch food, “Hollands Keuze Menu” for DFl. 46.
The wood-carved four giant horse-wagons hanging from the beamed ceiling dominate the comfortable and spacious dining room with nice furniture of round tables. The walls are heavily paneled, alternately hung with old and young paintings.
Hollands Keuze Menu:
• Haring met roggebrood = herring on black bread.
• Ragût van Hollandse garnalen = ragout of Dutch shrimp.
• Gefrituurde Goudse kaasschijf = fried slice of gouda cheese.
• Nagelhoutham mt Hollandse meloen = dried beef with Dutch melon.
• Capucijners met alles erop en eraan = marrowfat peas with garnish.
• Sudderlapjes met garnitur = braised Dutch beef Haarlem style.
• Grootmoeders kip in’t pannetje = pork chops, granny’s style.
• Gestoofde kabeljauw met mosterdsaus = braised salt-cod with mustard sauce.
• Zuurkool met kuitham = sauerkraut with bone-ham.
• Gegrilde zalmfilet met bieslooksaus = grilled salmon with chives.
• Boerenjongens met vanilleijs = ice-cream with liquored raisins and whipped cream.
• Amsterdamse boterkoek met slagroom = Amsterdam buttercake with whipped cream.
• Vers gestoofde peertjes met slagrrom = fresh stewed pears with whipped cream.
• Maastrichtse appelepröl = apple cake from Maastricht.
• Bitterkoekjespudding = maccaroon pudding.

Sama Sebo
P. C. Hooftstraat 31. Phone: 662 8146. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.105 ($63) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The undisputed king of Rijsttafel and Indonesian cuisine is 500 meters from Leidseplein and 100 meters from Rijksmuseum. The owner, Sebo Woldringh, takes care of keeping up standards in the kitchen, but lets the service more or less have its own way. With or without reservations you have to wait in the adjoining pub for your coveted table in this crowded and happy restaurant.
The efficient waiters dance around. Decorations are cheerful, including flowers and lamps. The cane chairs are comfortable. The beer flows freely and the small room is soon filled with laughter. Most people seem to order the 25 course Rijsttafel at DFl. 37, but some make to do with fewer courses, such as a seven-course Nasi Goreng or a six-course Bami Goreng at DFl. 18.
The dishes are kept warm on candle trays. You bring one course at a time to your own plate and eat it with steamed rice and spices. There is chicken soup, spiced salad, crispy prawn bread, soy bean cake, sweet potatoes, pan-fried sprouts, chopped peanuts, pork in soy sauce, mutton in madura, fried chicken, mixed grill, prawns, grilled coconuts, fried bananas etc.

Sancerre
Reestraat 28. Phone: 627 8794. Fax: 623 8749. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
A French restaurant in the charming Pulitzer hotel. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Seepaerd
Rembrandtsplein 22. Phone: 622 1759. Price: DFl.130 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Right on Rembrandtsplein, this restaurant offers a worthy example of Dutch seafood cooking.
Comfortable cane chairs, sewing-machine tables, aquariums, fish posters and old steering wheels. A fireplace is at the far end of the ground floor dining room, very romantic in the evening. The first floor dining room is not as cozy.
• Viessoep = fish soup.
• Scholfilets = pan-fried sole fillets with deep-fried potatoes and salad.
• Sliptongetjes = pan-fried Dover sole fillets with deep-fried potatoes and salad.
• Fresh fruit and ice cream.

Sichuan Food
Reguliersdwarsstraat 35. Phone: 626 9327. Fax: 627 7281. Price: DFl.125 ($75) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A Chinese restaurant in the main restaurant street in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Silveren Spiegel
Kattengat 4. Phone: 624 6589. Hours: Closed Sunday & lunch. Price: DFl.165 ($99) for two. All major cards. (B1).
In two houses from 1614, serving as a restaurant for the last two centuries, opposite the Renaissance hotel, nestling under Ronde Luterse Kerk, 400 meters from the Damrak avenue, decorated in old Dutch style.
The bar is on the ground floor and the intimate and original dining room is upstairs. It has a low ceiling and the floor is not quite horizontal. Beams are in walls and the ceiling. The curtains and tablecloths and checkered. This is a cozy place with comfortable atmosphere and excellent service.
• Clear fish soup with vegetables, shrimps and mussels.
• Entrecote steak.
• Profiteroles.

Speciaal
Nieuwe Leliestraat 142. Phone: 624 9706. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DFl.80 ($48) for two. All major cards. (A1).
An economical Indonesian restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Swarte Schaep
Leidsedwarsstraat 24. Phone: 622 3021. Fax: 624 8268. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (A3).
Stylish restaurant in a corner building from 1687 overlooking Leidseplein square, emphasizing pleasant, romantic and Dutch decorations, offering surprisingly good food in spite of that. Chef de Bogard even has a gastronomic menu that creates a romantic banquet. The menu changes frequently.
We have to climb steep and narrow stairs to reach a small and elegant dining room on the second floor. There are extensive chandeliers, dark and heavy paneling, stained windows, copper kettles and polished antiques. The best tables are beside the windows. Table service is elegant.
• Smoked salmon with avocado and fowl liver paté.
• Lamb soup with coriander.
• Snail ravioli in balsamico.
• Lobster paté and partridge on red cabbage.
• Veal cutlet and lamb saddle in rosemary.
• Mixed desserts.

Tom Yam
Staalstraat 22. Phone: 622 9533. Fax: 420 1388. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A Thai restaurant a few steps from the Waterlooplein opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tout Court
Runstraat 13. Phone: 625 8637. Fax: 625 4411. Price: DFl.200 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A2).
French quality cuisine emanates from a small restaurant in a side street parallel to Leidsegracht and 200 meters from Leidsestraat. It is the home base of chef John Fagel and recently popular with Dutch celebrities.
The 1st floor dining room is tight and crowded, rather comfortable but not very stylish. Service is smiling in a happy atmosphere. Several four and six course menus are offered.
• Monkfish with leeks in lobster gelé.
• Clear chicken soup.
• Aubergines and crab meat in saffron sauce with rice.
• Apple wine and calvados sorbet.
• Wild duck with mushrooms, cherries and cherry sauce.
• Cheeses and desserts from trolley.

Treasure
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 115. Phone: 623 4061. Fax: 640 1202. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B1).
One of the best Chinese restaurants is just a few steps from the Koninklijk Paleis and Nieuwe Kerk, exactly in the city center. It is heavily decorated in modern Chinese, with a pagoda roof inside, a waterfall in the lobby, paintings, flowers and an aquarium.
The specialty are dim sum for lunch, available in many variants. One of them includes deep-fried prawns with wonton soup and warm dragon cookies; steamed rice in vine leaves; and a few varieties of meat and fish balls. Such a lunch came to Fl. 65 for two.
• Dim Sum.

Tuynhuys
Reguliersdwarsstraat 28. Phone: 627 6603. Fax: 627 6603. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.170 ($102) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Very attractive eatery in the main quality restaurant street crossing Leidsestraat, with an open-air terrace at the rear. This warm place has a singular atmosphere of Portuguese sunshine. It offers a 3-course dinner for DFl. 58 and a 4-course dinner for DFl. 79. Try to book on the main floor rather than on the upstairs balcony.
The decorations are simple and effective, evoking memories of Mediterranean villas. The main dining room has a high ceiling, lots of large plants and a few round columns. The functional furniture of graceful, wrought iron in chandeliers and candelabras, tables and chairs fits the spacious surroundings. The service is unusually friendly.
• Gemarineerde tonijn op kruidensalade met Provençalse vinaigrette = delicately marinated tuna in herb salad with Provence style vinagrette.
• Gebakken gambas met knoflookgras = Dublin prawns with tai soi sauce.
• Dorade met brandade van stokvis en paprikaravioli’s = sea bream with brandade of salt cod and sweet pepper raviolis.
• Hazerijfilet met eekhoorntjesbrood en wilde rijst risotto = saddle of hare with boletus and wild rice risotto. Terrine van mundolees met sjalotten en bospaddestoelen = beef terrine with shallots and wild mushrooms. Gebraden fazant met in champagne gestoofde zuurkool = roasted pheasant with sauerkraut stewed in champagne.
• 3 soorten kaas met notebrood = a selection of three cheeses with bread.
• Dessert naar keuze = dessert of you choice.
• Parfait van Mandarine Napoléon met Italiaans schwin = mandarin parfait.
• Gegratineerde ananas met passiervrudensabajon en cocosijf = gratinated pinapple with passion fruit.

Tÿrkiye
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169. Phone: 622 9919. Hours: Closed at lunch. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A good representative of the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East, only 50 meters from the Dam square, offering a Turkish band and a belly dancer in addition to food.
It is a big room, all in red. The ceiling is red, the carpet is red, the linen is red, the waiter shirts are red. Wall carpets, palm trees and multicolored lamps. The waiters wear embroidered vests.
• Thick bean soup.
• Saddle of lamb with saffron rice, potatoes, vegetables salad and two sauces.
• Turkish caramel pudding.
• Strong Turkish coffee.

Vermeer
Prins Hendrikkade 59. Phone: 556 4885. Fax: 624 3353. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday. Price: DFl.230 ($138) for two. All major cards. (B1).
Very cozy, tastefully furnished in an old house, incorporated into the Barbizon Palace hotel, beside the St Nicolas church and opposite the central railway station. The well-known Ron Schouwenburg is in charge in the kitchen.
The dining room is bright and simple, sparkling with quality table service, surrounding flower arrangements. The chairs are comfortable and some of the furniture is antique. A daily dinner of DFl. 120, including a new wine with every course; and a daily gourmet course of five courses, also for DFl. 120. The service is good and the wine list is extensive.
• Feuilleté of sautéed chicken livers, ham and warm oysters, served with braised endive and apple dressing.
• Salmon confit with wilted cos lettuce and sautéed chanterelles.
• Steamed fillet of turbot served with mushrooms, fennel cream and a plantain galette.
• Monkfish medallion roasted on sea salt and served with basil flavored eggplant capote and peppers.
• Roast wild duck with braised celery and gingered corn fritters.
• Souffle chaud au mascarpone = basil flawored mascarpone soufflé with Cavaillon melon.
• Compote de fruits d’ete sous sa croute croustillante accompagné de glace a la crème fraiche = fruit crumble with crème fraiche ice-cream.

Vijff Vlieghen
Spuistraat 294. Phone: 624 8369. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DFl.200 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The famous Amsterdam restaurant has been operating in the same place since 1627, 400 meters from Dam square. It is in four adjoining houses. One of the dining rooms, called the Rembrandt room, has etchings that are said to be made by him. The restaurant offers 50 different genevers.
The furnishings are sometimes as old as the four houses themselves. The wooden paneling is dark and heavy. The wooden chairs and banks are not always comfortable. Big brass chandeliers, paintings, antique books, brass and bottles decorate the several small dining rooms. It would be fun to sit there even if the food were inferior. But it is not.
• Cold partridge with rhubarb mousse.
• Halibut paté with salmon sauce.
• Game soup with egg and capers.
• Poached redfish with lobster sauce and spinach.
• Lemon and chablis sorbet.
• Sweetbreads with salad.
• Kiwi fruit in kiwi sauce.

1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson

History

Paris has for centuries been one of the centers and magnets of the world. When the Romans conquered it in 55 B.C. it wge on the Seine islands, inhabited by the Parisii tribe. It grew in Roman times and became the capital of France at the beginning of the Middle Ages.

Since then Paris has been the European center of religion and politics, learning and arts, quickly overtaking Rome and only yielding to New York after the Second World War. Sorbonne is one of the oldest universities in the world and for centuries the most famous one.

Paris is rich in monuments from most periods of its history. In spite of that it has not rested on its laurels. It is also famous for modern and avant-garde design, as can be seen at the Louvre pyramid, the Centre Pompidou and the Défense.

Life

Paris is the city of elegance and style. People conduct themselves in the streets as kings and queens. Elegance is everywhere, from hotel and restaurant decoration to everyday clothing. What would be considered casual elsewhere would be considered shabby and vulgar in Paris. The clean and efficient and stylish Metro is a symbol of the classy status of Parisians.

Parisians consider themselves to be citizens, discussing politics, design and cuisine as eloquently as ancient Roman orators, balancing the abandon of the south and the restraint of the north. They are proud and self-sufficient, and consider themselves to be equal to anybody, including kings and popes. On foreigners this often wrongly translates as haughtiness.

Paris is a lively city of liberal inhabitants. Its nightclubs are world leaders. Its vibrant sidewalk cafés constantly evoke fond memories in the minds of visitors to Paris. The home team and visitors hang around in cafés, squares and streets to kill time and observe fellow humans. Champs-Élysées and the boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain are the main centers.

Sights

Paris is the most beautiful metropolis in the world, crammed with famous churches and palaces, squares and avenues. Its center is the largest tourist city in the world. There are five kilometers as the crow flies from Arc d’Triomphe to Notre Dame and from Montmartre to Montparnasse. In no city center has the traveler more things to cover.

Not only does the city boast of centuries of basilicas and mansions, plazas and boulevards. It also excels in the necessities of life for travelers. Nowhere is a greater conglomeration of excellent restaurants and hotels, some of them even at a reasonable price. It is based on the natural culinary artistry and architectural taste of the Parisians.

Canada

35 Avenue Montaigne. Phone: 4443 3200. (B3).

United Kingdom

16 Rue d’Anjou. Phone: 4266 9142.

United States

2 Avenue Gabriel. Phone: 4296 1202. (C3).

Accident

Phone: 15.

Ambulance

Phone: 15.

Complaints

When you start complaining, every true Frenchman suddenly stops understanding English.

Dentist

Phone: 4337 5100.

Fire

Phone: 18.

Hospital

Centre Médical Europe, 44 Rue d’Amsterdam, tel. 4281 9333 is inexpensive. American Hospital, 63 Boulevard Victor-Hugo, tel. 4641 2525, and British Hospital, 3 Rue Barbés, Levallois, tel. 4758 1312, are private hospitals.

Medical care

Phone: 4337 7777.

Pharmacy

Pharmacie Dhéry, Galerie des Champs, 8th, 84 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, tel. 4562 0241 is open day and night.

Police

Phone: 17.

Precautions

There is very little petty or violent crime in Paris.

Banks

Hours: 9-16:30 weekdays.

At airports and railway stations they keep longer hours and are also open during weekends.

Credit cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation.

Electricity

French voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Paris hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing. Small hotels can be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. Some of them are exquisite gems. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays. “Deux lits” rooms with two beds are generally preferable to “grand lit” rooms with one bed of French marital size and are often larger.

We only include hotels with private bathrooms, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our afternoon naps. The price ranges from FFr. 210 to FFr. 1,700, excluding breakfast.

We try to avoid the insubstantial breakfast at hotels in Paris. More tasty and economical is the coffee with baguettes or croissants on the corner café patronized by the locals. Breakfast is in most cases included in the stated price, as that is the normal price quoted.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some expensive hotels in Paris are in fact inferior to our selection of small hotels in old city mansions.

Money

The currency in France is the Franc, FFr., divided into 100 centimes. There are paper money for 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 FFr., and coins of a value up to 20 FFr.

Shopping

Most shops are open 10-18 all days except Sundays. Some small shops are closed during lunch.

Street numbers

Streets are numbered in the downriver direction and away from the Seine. Odd numbers are on your left side as you go up in numbers.

Tipping

A 15% service charge is generally included in restaurant bills. Some guests leave change up to the nearest FFr. 10. Taxi drivers expect at least 10% from foreigners, guides 10%, porters FFr. 5 per bag, toilet attendants, doormen and cloakroom attendants FFr. 2.

Toilets

Toilets are variable, but getting better all the time. You can use those of cafés for the price of a cup of coffee.

Tourist office

The Office du Tourisme has its head office at 127 Avenue de Champs-Élysées, 8th, open 9-18, tel. 4952 5354 and 4720 8898. Other offices are at the main railway stations and the Invalides airport station.

Water

Tap water is drinkable but many use bottled water as a precaution.

Accommodation

The Tourist Board offices seek accommodation for travelers. At Roissy / Charles de Gaulle airport there is an illuminated map showing vacancies and prices. Your can dial free of charge to individual hotels. Accommodation in private homes in all price categories is arranged by Paris Accueil, 8th, 23 Rue de Marignan, tel. 296 1426, open daily 9-19.

You should consider staying in one of the tiny hotels in old mansions, which have been transformed with French taste and love into personal and exquisite gems. Paris has far more of such elegant hotels than other world cities. Some of them are even cheaper than ordinary hotels elsewhere. Usually they are heavily booked so that you must reserve months in advance.

The season in Paris hotels covers the whole year. Any period can be difficult due to exhibitions and congresses. The expensive Paris hotels are as a group probably the most expensive hotels in the world.

Airport

The bus to Roissy / Charles de Gaulle airport leaves every 15 minutes from Porte Maillot. The trip takes one hour. Check-in at the airport is one hour before departure. All airlines except Air France use Terminal 1. Dial 742 5226 for current information on flight arrivals and departures.

Boats

Tourist boats leave for Seine trips from Pont Neuf, Quai Montebello, Port de la Bourdonnais, Port de Suffren and Place de la Conférence.

News

International Herald Tribune, which is published in Paris, and other important foreign newspapers are available at many kiosks in central Paris. The main French newspaper is Le Monde. There are six TV channels, TF1, FR2, FR3, M6, Are and La Sept, all in French, and additionally cable channels in many hotel rooms, including CNN and Sky.

Information on what is on is available in the weeklies Pariscope and Officiel des Spectacles in French and in the monthly Paris City in English. These papers are sold at most newsstands.

Phone

The French country code is 33 and the local code for Rome is 1. The foreign code from France is 19.

Post

The main post offices are at 52 Rue du Louvre, tel. 233 7160, and 71 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, tel. 359 5518, both open day and night.

Railways

The French railway system is inexpensive and effective. The TVG trains travel at speeds up to 300 km (185 miles) per hour.

Taxis

Phone: 200 6789.

You can wave cabs down in the streets. If you phone, the meter ticks on their way to you. Cabbies are generally honest but amazingly ignorant about the Paris map.

Traffic

Rush hours are 7:30-9 and 17-19. The underground Metro is probably the cleanest and one of the best in the world, open 5:30-1:15. It is convenient for getting around in the city. Cheap two-days, four-days and seven days tourist tickets are available with unlimited access to the whole system and all the busses. Some Parisians drive recklessly. Don’t drive yourself.

Coffee

French coffee is generally good. The cafés of Paris are meeting points and centers of society and culture.

Cuisine

French restaurants are the best in the world. The range and variety of French cooking is astounding. France is very rich in agricultural resources. There is a tradition of passion for cooking. Parisians love to eat out and to discuss cuisine and chefs, as others might discuss politics and politicians. Celebrated chefs are considered national monuments.

Western European and North American cooking is mainly derived from the French. The nearest rival to French cooking is Japanese cooking. In the last decades French chefs have emphasized their lead by inventing Nouvelle Cuisine, a light and lean version of the classic French cuisine, but more in line with modern considerations on health.

The last decade of the 20th Century has seen a resurgence in Cuisine de Terroir, earthy farmhouse cooking, partly as a counterweight to Nouvelle Cuisine and partly an evolution of farmhouse cooking under Nouvelle Cuisine influence.

Eating habits

The French do not eat much in the morning. They may have a café latte and croissants at the corner café. Lunch often starts at 13 and dinner at 20:30. Both lunch and dinner are hot meals and are equally important. The French like delicate food and consume it with due reverence.

Few French have drinks before eating as it spoils the palate. They are also careful with the wine and some only drink water. In good restaurants most people have bottled water though, l’eau minerale, often with gas, gaseuse.

Nouvelle Cuisine

French chefs have emphasized their position as the world leaders by inventing Nouvelle Cuisine, a light and lean version of the rich and classic French cuisine, but more in line with modern considerations on health.

The main rules of Nouvelle Cuisine are as follows: Raw materials are fresh, chosen according to the season, preferably not from the freezer and definitely not out of tins. Emphasis is put on seafood and vegetables.

Cooking times are shortened to conserve the taste and ingredients of the food. Precooking and reheating are abolished. Flour in sauces and soups is written off in favor of fumets and blenderized vegetables which are lighter on the stomach. Fats are used sparingly, pan-frying has decreased and deep-frying almost disappeared.

Prices

Prices have stabilized in France are on a par with other countries in Western Europe.

Restaurants

Rich and poor Frenchmen take interest in cooking and love to dine out. This tradition had made French restaurants absolutely the best in the world. Nowhere in the world is cooking as elevated as in France. Even fast food joints are good.

Lunch hour is 12:30-14, dinner 19:30-23. In most places the owner or some waiters understand some English. Paris restaurants are generally small and clean, sometimes accidentally decorated. They usually have linen tablecloths and linen napkins, most often white. Many restaurants offer set lunch menus at a lower price than dinner prices.

“Prix nets” or “service compris” on the menu means that a 15% service charge is included in the price.

Wine

French wine is absolutely the best in the world and priced accordingly. But the general quality is so high, that even the house wines are excellent. The French don’t drink plonk. The best French wine is graded in complicated ways which vary between regions, Bordeaux and Burgundy wines generally fetching the highest prices.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Alsace
Ny Østergade 9 / Pistolstræde, 1101 K. Phone: 3314 5743. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the city’s more refined restaurants, in a pedestrian alley leading off Strøget. A part of it is a sidewalk restaurant and part is a conventional restaurant in a white-painted brick cellar.

There are lots of fresh flowers, green sofas along the walls and tiles on the floor. The room is in two parts one of which has a view into the kitchen. The wine list concentrates on Alsace.

• Clear truffle soup.

• Goose liver paté with toast.

• Oyster soup.

• Venison with chanterelles.

• Sauerkraut

• Butter-fried partridge with grapes.

• Grilled feta cheese

• Champagne sorbet.

Amalie

Amaliegade 11. Phone: 3312 8810. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In a street leading from Amalienborg, just 100 meters from the palace, an exquisite little lunch cellar with a low ceiling in a conservation protected house.

The white walls are decorated with old etchings, the tables with candles and crochet mats. The cooking is simple and excellent.

• Smoked eel.

• Cod roes.

• Fish dumplings.

• Beef tartar.

Belle Terrasse

Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, 1620 V. Phone: 3312 1136. Fax: 3315 0031. Hours: Closed in winter. Price: DKr.650 ($113) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The best restaurant in the Tivoli garden. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bernstorff

Bernstorffsgade 7, 1577 V. Phone: 3311 0668. Fax: 3315 1547. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.100 ($17) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Opposite the central railway stations and with Tivoli Gardens at its back, this restaurant offers some of the most reasonable prices in town.

It is clean, with gleaming white linen, decorated with items from the Tivoli Gardens. The main attraction is the reasonably prices lunch buffet. Service is very good.

• Salmon paté.

• Marinated salmon.

Cafe Victor

Hovedvagtsvej 8 / Ny Østergade, 1101 K. Phone: 3313 3613. Hours: Main room closed Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Just behind hotel Angleterre, 50 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a fashionable meeting place of young and affluent intellectuals.

It is open and cold and mainly noisy. The bar is more comfortable than the dining room. The place is really a café that offers a menu at lunch. The naked windows are immense and there are mirrors behind the bar. Everything seems to make sure that everyone sees everyone else, even from the outside. The service is good.

Caféen i Nicolai

Nikolaj Plads12. Phone: 3311 6313. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the southern transept of Sankt Nikolaj church, just a few steps from Strøget pedestrian street. There is plenty of room in all directions, especially up.

The coolness of the big, stained windows is offset by big paintings on the walls and dark beams in the ceiling.

• Fish soup with home baked whole-grain bread.

• Butter-fried cod roes.

• Orange marinated catfish roes.

• Danish goat cheese.

Copenhagen Corner

Rådhuspladsen, Vesterbrogade 1A, 1620 V. Phone: 3391 4545. Fax: 3391 0404. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Even if concentrating on tourist, this corner on Rådhuspladsen square is also a solid restaurant with correct prices, a worthy descendant of Frascati, which was here in the building that preceded the present one. The glassed-in front part evokes memories of the old sidewalk café.

It offers premium wines by the glass. The wine is drawn from the bottles with a Cruover without uncorking them.

• Warm-smoked salmon.

• Duck breast in calvados.

• Catfish in marinated vegetables.

• Oven-baked filet of beef.

• Pancakes with raisins and redcurrants.

Els

Store Strandstræde 3. Phone: 3314 1341. Price: DKr.450 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of Denmark’s nicest restaurant, in a side street leading off Kongens Nytorv, a few steps from the square. The house and its design are from 1853, including the restaurant furnishings, which evoke memories from Austrian luxury cafés. The surroundings, the atmosphere and the cooking combine to make a harmonious whole that is not reflected in the rather low prices.

The inner dining room is the most interesting part. Recently restored are the six big pictures which are painted directly on the wood walls. The tables on the carpeted floor are of white and blue porcelain tiles. The atmosphere is unhurried and dignified and enhances the good service and still better cooking. The menu changes twice a day. The wine list is extensive.

• Guinea fowl with honey and orange sauce.

• Seafood chowder with mushrooms and herbs.

• Smoked salmon with truffles.

• Witch flounder with salmon mousse and salmon caviar.

• Turbot in cognac fumé.

• Charolais tournedos with herb mousse and tomatoes.

• Saddle of venison with truffes and Madeira.

• Peach pie with blackcurrant jelly and strawberries

• Cognac pie with whipped cream and blueberries.

• Mountain cheeses with grapes.

Era Ora

Torvegade 62, 1400 K. Phone: 3154 0693. Fax: 3185 0753. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C3).

The best Christianshavn restaurant, rather expensive, on the main throughfare. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Escoffier

Dronningens Tværgade 43, 1302 K. Phone: 3315 1505. Fax: 3315 4405. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A beautiful and tasteful restaurant adjoining Hotel Christian IV, a few steps from Kongens have.

The ceiling is dark blue and the walls are yellow. Large and modern paintings and other works of art give the tone. Large chairs have blue, red and golden upholstery with African designs. White linen and candles are on the tables. Service is good.

• Bagt torske souffle med svampe i persille-hvidløgs marinade = baked cod soufflé with mushrooms in a marinade of parsley and garlic.

• Perlhøneterrin anrettet på stegt pære i balsamico = guinea hen on baked pear.

• Glaceret okse tournedos med ristede skorzornerødder og sennepskorn sauce = glazed beef tournedos with mustard sauce.

• Sesamebagt laks med spinat-dild mousse og hummercreme = salmon baked in sesame with a mousse of spinach and dill and lobster sauce.

• Gratineret brie med piment og ribs i oliven olie = gratinated brie cheese with redcurrants in olive oil.

• Valnøddekage med vanille syltede vindruer = walnut cake with vanilla pickled grapes.

Fiskekælderen, Den Gyldne Fortun

Ved Stranden 18, 1061 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best fish restaurants huddle together in the former fish market area at the canal facing Christiansborg palace, only 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. One of the best is in a corner house cellar from 1796, small and tight, heavily furnished.

Knowledgeable and energetic waiters are friendly. The best part is the delicate, modern cuisine. Poaching and steaming are much in use, keeping the delicate taste of good an fresh seafood better than different types of frying. Avoid the fish items in the written menu as they can be frozen. Choose from the daily offerings chalked on blackboards on the walls.

• Mussels in the shell, poached in white wine. garlic and spices.

• Vineyard snails in the shells with salmon mousse and Burgundy sauce.

• Grilled lobster.

• Poached Dover sole with salmon mousse.

• Steamed ocean trout in white wine, with salmon and sturgeon caviar.

• Poached turbot in white wine, with wild mushroom sauce.

• Flambéed figs with pistachio ice-cream.

Fregatten Sct Georg III

Vesterbrogade 3, Tivoli, 1630 V. Phone: 3315 9204. Price: DKr.660 ($115) for two. All major cards. (A3).

An old frigate has been dumped into the middle of the lake in the eastern part of the Tivoli garden and serves as an restaurant with amusing ambience. In summer there is also dining on the deck.

Walls and ceilings are curved, just as one would expect in a ship. Everything is made of massive wood. You will not forget that you are aboard a ship. The sitting is close and the napkins are of paper. Food is acceptable and service barely so.

• Tre slags danske sild = three types of marinated herring.

• Graved laks med salat af fennikel = dill marinated salmon with fennel salad.

• Letsaltet andebryst kogt i krydderlage med lun løgkompot, svesker og rosiner = lightly salted duck boiled in herbs, with stewed onions, prunes and raisins.

• Lun flæskesteg fra Skallebølle med råmarineret rødkål = pork with marinated red cabbage.

• Danske oste fra Tebstrup, Them, Aså og Fanø = four Danish cheeses.

• Ris a la mande = spiced rice and cream.

Godt

Gothersgade 38, 1123 K. Phone: 3315 2122. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Husband-and-wife Corin Rice and Marie-Anne Ravn started this tiny restaurant for twenty guests in 1994 only 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv, on the stretch between Adelgade and Borgergade. It immediately took top honors for cooking and ambience.

The dining room is on two floors, with simple and tasteful furnishings, good linen on the tables. Marie-Anne takes good care of the guests and explains both the menu and the wine list. There is only one menu of four courses, changing every day.

• Ande-borstj med bacon = thin slices of duck with bacon.

• Søtunge og laks på frisk spinat med basilikum sauce = Dover sole and salmon on fresh spinach with basil sauce.

• Kalvemørbrad med skysauce, kantareller i fløde, dagens grøntsager og kartofler = beef fillet in own juice, chanterelle mushrooms in cream sauce, with zucchini, carrots, beans, broccoli and potatoes.

• Hasselnøddekage med friske figner i solbærsauce og pocherede ferskener = hazelnut cake with fresh figs in blackcurrant sauce and marinated plums.

Gråbrødre Torv 21

Gråbrødre Torv 21, 1154 K. Phone: 3311 4707. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.640 ($111) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best restaurant on the charming Gråbrødretorv in the center of the old city, situated on the southwestern corner of the square, frequented by people from the fashion industry.

Sparsely furnished and cozy, with candlelights, paintings, a wooden floor, small tables with yellow and white linen and large bouqets of orange roses. The service is rather good.

• Hummersuppe med cognac = lobster soup with brandy.

• Iransk sevruga caviar = Iranian sevruga caviar.

• Letsprængt gåsebryst med peberrod = lightly salt-marinated goose with horseradish.

• Frikassé af hummer and havtaske = pieces of lobster and monkfish.

• Kogt torsk med sennepssause = poached cod with mustard sauce.

• Krondyrmedaillon på rosmarinsky = venison medaillons in rosemary.

• Pralinéis med kaffecreme = confection ice with coffee creme.

• Chokoladeterrin med orange = chocolate terrine with orange.

Ida Davidsen

St. Kongensgade 70, 1264 K. Phone: 3391 3655. Fax: 3311 3655. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best and the most expensive “smørrebrød” restaurant in town, near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kanal-Kaféen

Frederiksholms Kanal 18. Phone: 3311 5770. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

An old and historical lunch pub hides in two ancient rooms on the canal opposite the back of Christiansborg palace.

The ceiling is low. There are ship models in the windows, pictures of ships on the walls. Regulars sit on cane chairs at the linen tables, enjoying good atmosphere and quick service.

• Marinated salmon.

• Smoked salmon.

• Pickled lamb.

• Home-made meat paté.

• Aged cheese.

Kokkeriet

Kronprinsessegade 64, 1306 K. Phone: 3315 2777. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A lightly trendy mixture of Danish, Far Eastern and French cooking recently opened in a lightly trendy setting near Kongens Have, about 400 meters from the royal Amalienborg palace. The cooking is surprisingly good for such a lightly trendy place.

The place is a little naked, but not uncomfortably so, dominated by a long aluminium bar and aluminium air-condition pipes in the ceiling. White colors are much in evidence, on the walls and in the linen. There are candlelights for romance and trendy pictures on the wall. The lightly casual service is nothing to write home about, spoiling the otherwise comfortable ambience.

• Grilled torsk i hummercremesuppe med porre = grilled cod in lobster cream soup.

• Kammusling fricasse med jomfruhummer og persille olie = mussels with lobster and parsley in oil.

• Chilimarineret fjordlaks med fyldte orientalske ruller = salmon in red chili and spring rolls with cabbabe and aubergine.

• Portvinsbraisere fasan med jordskokker og svampe = braised pheasant with mushrooms.

• Kokkeriets osteudvalg = blue cheese, feta, svendbo and gorgonzola cheese.

• Letfrossen chokoladekage med nøddekompot og pæresorbet = lightly frozen chocolate cake with nut compote and pear sorbet.

• Beaujolaissyltede blommer med rørt vanilleiscreme = plums pickled in red wine, with vanilla ice cream.

Kommandanten
Ny Adelgade 7, 1104 K. Phone: 3312 0990. Fax: 3393 1223. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A thoroughly designed restaurant on two floors in a charming 17th C. residence, on the south side of the street, near Grønnegade.

Gray walls of stone and gray upholstery and gray linen, silver-sprayed leaves and branches, mirrors and vases, silver cutlery and porcelain plates distinguish the restaurant, just as specially designed metallic chairs, halogen lights and a wooden floor. The service is professional.

• Frikassé af frølår og krydderurter, serveret med persillesoufflé og løgcreme = fricassé of frogs’ legs and herbs, served with parsley soufflé and onion cream.

• Gulerodsfeulleté med kalvebrisler og danske vinbjergsnegle, serveret med morkelsky = flaky carrot pastry with sweetbreads and snails, served with mushroom sauce.

• Grilled kalvetournedos med svampefritot, perlebyg, tomat og sauce diable = grilled veal tournedos with mushrooms, tomatoes and devil’s sauce.

• Frikassé of poularde fra Bresse, vintertrøfler, selleri og skorzonerødder = fricassé of Bresse hens, truffles and celery.

• Pandekager med appelsinkompot, hertil mandler og mandel sorbet = pancakes with orange compote, almonds and almond sorbet.

Kong Hans

Vingårdstræde 6. Phone: 3311 6868. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1100 ($191) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the main gourmet temples in town hides almost unmarked in a cellar about 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. You start with drinks at the bar watching the work of the chefs in the open kitchen before you are shown to a table in a beautiful and romantic dining room behind the kitchen. This place combines atmosphere and cuisine.

White cellar vaults with Gothic ribs dominate the room. Avant-garde works of art line the walls. The table service is elegant but the waiter service could be better. A coffee and cognac sitting room is behind the dining room, sparing diners the cigar smell. A choice of set menus of three, four, six and eight courses offers excellent cuisine at stratospheric prices.

• Goose liver and sweetbreads with pickled vegetables.

• Asparagus and sparrow eggs in butter pie with zucchini, mushrooms, salmon and sturgeon caviar.

• Salmon and lemon sole in cream sauce.

• Champagne sorbet.

• Milk lamb in sage sauce.

• Beef contrefilet with mushroom and red wine sauce.

• Apple pie with raspberry sauce.

• Cheeses and desserts from the trolley.

Kongkursen

Kompagnistræde 4, 1208 K. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the oldest part of the city center, functioning both as a café and as a restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Krogs Fiskerestaurant

Gammel Strand 38, 1202 K. Phone: 3315 8915. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A 1910 original of a fish restaurant in Empire style overlooking the royal palace complex on the other side of the canal, near Højbro plads, serving good seafood on the classic French side at high prices.

The green walls are covered with gilded mirrors and 19th C. paintings in white frames. The chairs are of mahogny. White linen, oil lamps and porcelain is on the tables. This is a refined place, typically Danish.

• Røget laks, æble chutney og jomfruhummer tatar = smoked salmon, apple chutney and lobster tartare.

• Hummerbisque serveret med hummer og tilsmagt med armagnac = lobster chowder with lobster and armagnac.

• Ristet pighvarfilet med ratatouille af tre slags løg og citronsmør = baked turbot fillet with a stew of tomatoes and three types of onion, and lemon butter.

• Grillet hummer med vanille, jordskokker og æbler = grilled lobster with vanilla, mushrooms and apples.

• Créme brûlé med mild stjerneanis og mocca detil vanillesorbet = créme brûlé with anis and mocca, served with vanilla sorbet.

• Chokolade pyramide med pistacie karamel = chocolate pyramid with pistacio caramel.

Leonore Christine

Nyhavn 9. Phone: 3313 5040. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In the oldest Nyhavn house, from 1681, less than 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a nice little restaurant with big windows facing Nyhavn harbor. The house has been preserved in original condition. The furnishings under the white walls are simple and unostentatious.

It has been a popular meeting place of boisterous businessmen for many years. The service is rather good, even if uneven. The menu is short and handwritten, showing clear signs of Nouvelle Cuisine. The refined cooking is by far the best one in Nyhavn. The wine list is rather high in price.

• Venison tartar with dill and egg.

• Mushroom mousse.

• Duck breast with shallots and red wine fumé.

• Venison leg with goose fat.

• Candied pistachio ice-cream with prune sabajon.

• Desserts from the trolley.

Lille Lækkerbisken

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Centrally located on the canals. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Lumskebugten

Esplanaden 21. Phone: 3315 6029. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.440 ($77) for two. All major cards. (C1).

500 meters north from royal Amalienborg palace on the way to Den lille Havfrue, a former café has been successfully transformed into a modern culinary temple with simple and beautiful furnishings.

The house is white, long and narrow, with the main dining room in front, a bar and two smaller rooms behind. The rooms are bright, old and roomy, decorated with old photos and posters. The linen is gleaming white under flower and candle decorations. The offers of the day are chalked on a blackboard in addition to handwritten menus which change two times a day.

• Beef tartar.

• Skate stuffed with salad and salmon roes.
• Leg of venison with fumé of nuts, apples and blackberries.

• Chocolate cream cake with mashed fruit and ice-cream.

Nouvelle

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3313 5018. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.950 ($165) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A hidden gem on the pretty Gammel Strand canal street near Højbro plads, entered through an almost unmarked courtyard. It is an exquisite restaurant with perfect service and almost perfect French nouvelle cuisine.

The colors are grey, blue and curry. An enormous and original chandelier is in the middle of the tiled ceiling. Open cupboards of glasses and wine bottles are in some crannies. The butter trays, plates and ashtrays are of pewter. The linen is orange and dark blue. There are flowers and candles on the tables. Service is unobtrusive and watchful and technically perfect.

• Æg nouvelle fyldt med hummermousseline og sevruga caviar = marbled egg with lobster mousseline and sevruga caviar.

• Terrine af vesterhavsfisk og muslinger med peberrod = Nordsee fish terrine and mussels with horseradish.

• Terrine af gåsefoiegras med mango og mild pebergelé = goose liver terrine with mango and pepper gelé.

• Pighvarfilet med letrøget spæk, balsamico og morkler = turbot with lightly smoked bacon and mushrooms.

• Hel hummer med salvie, spinat og pecorino = whole lobster with sage, spinach and pecorino cheese.

• Svesker i armagnac med creme og sukkerkurve = prunes in armagnac with cream and sugar basket.

• Lille æbletærte serveret varm med syltede valnødder og rørt iscreme = warm apple pie with pickled walnuts and ice cream.

Ostehjørnet

Store Kongensgade 56. Phone: 3315 9133. Hours: Closed Saturday dinner & Sunday. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An excellent cheese shop is in a cellar on a main street 400 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and Amalienborg square. Above the shop a small restaurant specializes in cheese.

Salads, cheeses and cold cuts are on display at the bar, as customary at Danish lunch places. The staff knows about cheeses. Beer is preferable to the inferior wine.

• Cheese platter with emmenthaler, camembert, bresse bleu, brie and feta.

Restaurationen

Møntergade 19, 1116 K. Phone: 3314 9495. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A top-flight husband-and-wife restaurant of Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen in a beautiful corner house on the west side of Möntergade and north side of Vognmagergade, only a few steps from Kongens Have and about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv. Bo is a well-known TV cook, both are wine tasting specialists, and the cuisine is one of the best two or three in Copenhagen.

Beautiful, large paintings line the white walls of this airy restaurant with an open layout and a view into the kitchen, white linen and blue porcelain on the tables. Service is excellent and informative. There is only one menu of five courses, changed two times each day.

• Bagt helleflynder piqueret med røget hellefisk, syltede Karl Johann svampe og persillecrem = baked halibut, spiced with smoked halibut, pickled mushrooms and parsley cream.

• Laks indbage i butterdej med safransmør, glaseret selleri og lakserogn = salmon in butter pastry with saffron butter, glazed celery and salmon caviar.

• Marinerede linser bagt i porer, vinaigrette med kørvet og phylladej bagt med tapande = marinated baked beans.

• Kalvemørbrad farseret med brisler og vintertrøfler, madeira-trøffelsauce, grønkål med fløde bagt i bacon og kartoffel gratin med parmesan = veal fillet with sweetbreads and truffles, madeira sauce and gratinated potatoes with parmesan.

• Valnødde-marengskage med honning-citronfløde = walnut meringue cake with honey and lemon cream.

• Hvid chokolade iscreme med chokolade tuilles og svedsker i ahorn-sirup = white chocolate icea cream.

• Bagt æble med karamelcreme og orangesauce med koriander = baked apple with caramel creme and orange sauce with coriander.

Saison

Hellerup Parkhotel, Strandvejen 203, 2900 Hellerup. Phone: 3962 4842. Fax: 3962 5657. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards.

The doyen of Danish chefs, Erwin Lauterbach, is back in Copenhagen and runs a restaurant in Hellerup Parkhotel in the suburb of Hellerup, on the coast road from Copenhagen to Elsinore, when you have just passed the Experimentarium exhibition and the Tuborg breweries. Lauterbach specializes in nouvelle vegetarian cuisine.

Beautiful, bright and spacious, with dark parquet and light furniture, red and golden curtains, brass and glass chandeliers, candlelights and white linen on the tables, and paintings by contemporary Danish artists. The kitchen is partly in view. Service by knowledgeable waiters is outstanding but rather busy at times. Good care is taken of the guests.

• Foie gras af and i terrine med briochebrød = duck liver in terrine with brioches.

• Crudité med grøntsager, safranmarinade og krydderurtetoast = crudité of vegetables, saffrom marinade and spiced toast.

• Jordskokker og blomkål med rosiner og kapers i muskatnøddesauce = mushrooms and cauliflower with raisins and capers in nut sauce.

• Grillet filet af torsk med porrer og linser = grilled cod fillet with lentils.

• Pandekager krydret med chili og serveret med hvidebønner i sauce med friske koriander = pancakes spiced with chile and served with white beans in sauce with fresh coriander.

• Makroner med kastanjeis og chokoladesauce = Macaroones with castagne ice cream and chocolate sauce.

• Anisparfait med karameliseret ananas = Anis parfait with caramelized pineapple.

Sankt Annæ

Sankt Annæ Plads 12, 1250 K. Phone: 3312 5497. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Alongside hotel Neptun, 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a small hole for 32 lunchers sitting tight, if they can get through the narrow entrance. All the food is made on the premises.

This is a nice place, decorated with wagon wheels and old wagon drawings. There is no menu. Instead you trot to the bar, where the food is, and point out what you want to eat.

• Salmon with shrimp.

• Egg with shrimp.

• Marinated herring.

• Danish cheeses.

Skagen

Toldboldgade 2, Kælderen, 1253 K. Phone: 3393 8385. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.540 ($94) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A simple cellar restaurant with a seaside atmosphere and a short menu of standardized Danish-French cooking on the corner of Nyhavn and Toldbodgade, about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv.

Benches of dark wood line the walls. There are ship lanterns, candles, stones and conches in the window-sills. The linen is white and gray. Seaside paintings enhance the ambience. Service is frendly but not very professional.

• Poulard frikasse med kammuslinger og salad = braised pullet pieces with mussels and salad.

• Andeleverterrine med svampe = duck liver terrine with mushrooms.

• Hummerfrikassé med urter = lobster pieces with herbs.

• Stegt lyssej med hummersauce = pan-fried saithe with lobster sauce.

• Kalvemørbrad med røgede svampe-sauce = veal with smoked mushroom sauce.

• Desserttallerken = mixed desserts.

Skildpadden

Gråbrødretorv 9, 1154 K. Phone: 3313 0506. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An inexpensive café-cum-restaurant on the friendliest square in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Slotskælderen

Fortunstræde 4, 1065 K. Phone: 3311 1537. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday & Monday. Price: DKr.200 ($35) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the better lunch restaurants in the center, near the pedestrian Strøget. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sorte Ravn

Nyhavn 14, 1051 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A cozy and pretty restaurant with solid French cuisine on the quiet side of Nyhavn, between the Kongens Nytorv square and Holbergsgade.

A bright place with small and deep windows, white walls and white linen, red ceiling bricks, brown leather benches and comfortable Nordic chairs. The table service is elegant, includes oil lamps and large wine glasses. There are rough bast mats on the floor. The total ambience is one of warmth and relaxation, just as the service.

• Dybkaosrejer omviklet med bacon, serveret med beurre blanc, tomatconcassé og vilde ris = ocean shrimp with bacon, served with melted butter, tomatpuré and wild rice.

• To slags laks med estragonsky, urter, hakkede æg, citronglacerede østers, salat og purløgescreme = two types of salmon in tarragon fond, with herbs, ground eggs and oysters in lemon glace.

• Indbagt pighvarfilet med hummerkød, laksemousse, samt hummer-cognac sauce = baked turbot with lobster, salmon mousse and lobster-brandy sauce.

• Helstegt svampefarseret dyrefilet med bær, selleriepure, andelevermousse and Madagaskar-pebersauce = braised venison with mushroom puré, berries, celery puré, duck liver mousse and pepper sauce.

• Lettfrossen nødde nougatkage med appelsin og solbærsorbet = lightly frozen nut and nougat cake with orange and blackcurrant sorbet.

• Frisk frugtsorbet = sorbet of fresh fruit.

Spinderokken

Trommesalen 5, 1614 V. Phone: 3122 1314. Fax: 3122 3513. Hours: Closed lunch; Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The heavily decorated restaurant 100 meters from the central railway station has remained unchanged for a long time, hiding behind two stained windows and a heavy oak door. This peaceful and lazy place is old-fashioned in cooking, in service and in decor.

The old and dimly lit dining room in front is preferable to the newer one on the side. Oak, copper, antiques, candles, woven fabrics are all around. Here people do not hurry, even at lunch, when they linger into the afternoon, chatting over a glass of cognac. Lately a cold lunch buffet has been the specialty of the house, culminating in many types of marinated herring.

• Breast of turkey with creamed eggs.

• Three types of marinated herring with black bread.

St Gertruds Kloster

Hauser plads 32, 127 K. Phone: 3314 6630. Price: DKr.1150 ($200) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A unique and an immense restaurant for parties and tourist groups in the cellar of a charming 14th C. convent, a few steps from Kultorvet square, on the north side of the street, unusually furnished and lit by 1500 candles without the help of electricity. Sadly service and cooking do not reflect the high standard of the design.

Brick vaults, arcades. old chairs and tables of massive wood, heavy staircases, beams and pillars, religious artifacts and noisy diners. Aperitifs are taken in nooks and crannies and coffee is served in a library of leather furniture. Service is in the style of conveyor belts, rather rude and inattentive. Butter is served in airline alumnium packages.

• Flødeglaceret hummersuppe med armagnac og hummerkød = cream glazed lobster soup with armagnac and lobster chunks.

• Friskkogt hummer serveret i safranfløde, tilsmagnt med hvid bourgogne og dild = poached lobster in saffron cream, with white wine and dill.

• Andebryst letsalted og stegt på grill, serveret med risted andelever, estragonsauce, dagens grøntsag og kartoffel = lightly salted duck grilled and served with roasted duck liver, tarragon sauce, vegetables of the day and potatoes.

• Helstegt oksemørbrad serveret med kraftig trøffelsauce, hertil sauteret frisk spinat, ristede svampe = beef fillet with truffle sauce, sautéed spinach and roasted mushrooms.

• Letfrossen appelsinkage med nøddekrokant og hindbærpuré = lightly frozen orange cake with nut croquant and raspberry puré.

• Skobærparfait med karamelfløde og friske jordbær = parfait of berries from the wood with caramel cream and strawberries.

Sticks ‘n Sushi

Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 K. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DKr.250 ($43) for two. All major cards. (A2).

One of the best Japanese restaurant in town, in the Kong Arthur hotel, near the central lakes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Thorvaldsen

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday & in winter dinner. Price: DKr.350 ($61) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Conveniently located opposite the palace island. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tivolihallen

Vester Voldgade 91. Phone: 3311 0160. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

The baccalao saltfish center in town is in a 125 year old cellar just behind the city hall, 300 meters from Rådhuspladsen. You either order your baccalao by phone or wait for 25 minutes to get the exquisite delicacy on your plate, overcooked in the Icelandic manner.

Middle-aged regulars sit on worn benches and torn chairs in two tired and cozy rooms to devour big portions of baccalao and other grandmother’s dishes. Everything is clean and the linen is gleaming white. There is no menu and no price list.

• Saltfish, Icelandic way.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Art

Venetian painters, born there or living there, were for centuries among the best artists of Italy. They did not introduce e Gothic style or the Renaissance style, but they took them up and made a tradition of them.

Venetian art was born of Constantinopel roots and mixed the Byzantine style with the Gothic one. Mosaics and gilding characterize the first Venetian artists such as Paolo and Lorenzo Veneziano. Then came Jacopo Bellini, the brothers Gentile and Giovanni Bellini, Andrea Mantegna, Bartolomeo Vivarini and Vittoro Carpaccio with sharp paintings at the early Renaissance.

The heyday of Renaissance can be seen in the play of light and shade in the paintings of Tiziano, Tintoretto and Paolo Veronese. The main Venetian artists during the Baroque and Rococo periods were Canaletto, Pietro Longhi, Giambattista Tiepolo and Giandomenico Tiepolo. In almost all the many churches in Venice there are works of art by these world famous artists.

Carnivale

The Venetian carnival is the oldest carnival in the world, started in the 11th C. Originally it was an on-going feast of a two-month duration, but now it goes on for ten days before the start of Lent in February. People wear masks and costumes and try to go wild. Many costumes are fantastic and the masks are a main souvenir item of Venice.

Gondolas

Gondolas are one of the main characteristics of Venice, built according to a thousand year old design. They are asymmetrical, with a leftward curve, to compensate for having only one oar. They are all black, 11 meters long, exactly built from nine woods, and cost £10000 each. When they were the main transport in town they numbered about 10,000 but now they are only 400.

When Venice became a tourist city the role of the gondolas changed from being a means of transportation into a romantic institution, where the oarsman sang arias for couples in love. The third stage was reached with Japanese tourists who sail in groups in several gondolas on Canal Grande with an accordionist and a retired opera singer. That is the main use of gondolas nowadays.

History

Venetians descend from the Veneti who lived in the Po delta in Roman times. Attacks during the great European migrations drove the people out in the lagoon fens, where the city was founded on 100 islands, in 421 according to Venetian tradition. They drove piles into the mud, built their houses on them and connected islands with the characteristic canals and bridges.

They faced the sea and soon became great sailors and merchants. Impassable fens defended the city on the land side and their ships on the sea side. They soon started trade with Constantinople, the main city of the world at that time and were influenced by Byzantine art. In the Middle Ages they expanded their power in the Mediterranean and were victorious over Byzantium in 1204.

When other Italian cities fought civil wars during the Renaissance, Venice was a stable republic of ca. 2000 nobles who elected a Doge. This aristocracy survived more or less intact for 11 centuries, until Napoleon put an end to it without battle at the end of he 18th C. Venice had started to decline in the 16th C. when the Atlantic Ocean surpassed the Mediterranean in trade.

Life

Venice is unique. The main traffic artery is a wide river lined with elegant palaces. Boats are used for all public transport and transport of goods. The rest of the traffic is pedestrian. There is no noise or air pollution from cars, which are none. The refreshing air from the ocean fills up with the natural sounds of waves and people’s conversation. There is no modern stress.

The city has become a single, giant museum of the great centuries of Venice. Still dozens of thousands of people live there, about half the population during the golden ages. Also dozens of thousands come in to work every morning and leave at night. The tourists add to these numbers. Venice is thus a living city, even if it has been on the decline for the last centuries.

The city is a continuos artwork and history of arts. Every church has some jewels by the old masters. Some of the old palaces have been converted into museums and other into hotels. It is full of restaurants offering good Adriatic seafood. It is full of boats, from the slow gondolas to the speedy water-taxis. It is a constant relaxation for culturally minded travelers.

Palazzi

Hundreds of palaces line the canal banks of Venice. Usually they have decorative fronts to the water and simple rear sides to pedestrian alleys. Usually they have four floors. On the ground floor were storerooms and offices. Reception rooms were on the first floor, the piano nobile. The family lived on the second floor and the servants on the third.

The oldest and most enchanting palaces are from the 13th C., in Byzantine style, with light and high arcades on slender columns, covering the entire width of the first floor. Palazzo Loredan is a good example. Most numerous are the Gothic palaces, from the 13th-15th C., characterized by pointed arches, pointed windows and lace windows. Palazzo Foscari is a good example.

There are heavier palaces in Renaissance style from the 15th-16th C., symmetrical and mathematical in design, with fluted columns and Corinthian capitals. Palazzo Grimani is a good example. From the 17th C. are finally very heavy Baroque palaces with exaggerated decoration and deep windows on the front sides. Ca’Pesaro is a good example.

Preservation

Venice has been sinking, especially in the 20th C. This results from the drying of land for the expanding industry in the neighboring towns of Mestre and Porto Marghera and from excessive use of fertilizer in the Po valley. The use of motor boats has also disturbed the canals and weakened the foundations of buildings. Preventive action has now slowed down the sinking.

Germany

Sottoportego Giustinian, Accademia. Phone: 522 5100.

United Kingdom

Palazzo Querini, Accademia, Dorsoduro 1051. Phone: 522 7207.

Accident

Phone: 113.

Ambulance

Phone: 523 0000.

Complaints

It is generally useless and a waste of time to complain in Italy. Instead try to look at the bright side.

Fire

Phone: 115.

Hospital

Ospedale Civile, Campo Santi Zanipolo. Phone: 523 0000.

Medical care

Phone: 118.

Pharmacy

Hours: Monday-Friday 8:30-12:30 & 16-20, Saturday 9-12.

Closed pharmacies have signs on their doors to point out where there is night duty. Opening times are also in Un Ospite di Venezia. Many minor drugs are available without prescription.

Police

Phone: 112.

The city police, Vigili urbani, wear blue uniforms in winter and white in summer. The state police, La Polizia, wear blue uniforms with white belts and berets. The military police, Carabineri, wear red-striped trousers. You can ask all three types for help.

Precautions

Don’t use a handbag. Keep money in inside pockets. Use cards as much as possible. Don’t keep passports in the same place as money. Don’t leave valuables in a locked car. Beware of gypsy children, especially in groups. Petty crime abounds, but there is very little violent crime in Rome.

Banks

Banking hours are Monday-Friday 8:30-13:30 & 14:45-15:45. Change foreign money in banks or at “cambio”-offices, not in hotels. Some banks only change foreign money during the morning hours. A bank is open 24 hours a day at the central railway station but often there is a long queue. At Marco Polo airport at Venice an exchange office is open all day.

Credit cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation. Their emergency freephone is 167 82 80 47. American Express has 722 82 and Diners Club has 167 86 40 64 (freephone).

Electricity

Italian voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Venetian hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing, if they have three or more official stars. But two-starred hotels can also be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays. Some hotels have been set up in famous palaces, which are still decorated with antiques.

It is more expensive to stay in Venice than elsewhere in Italy. You can stay inland and go by train or car to Venice in the morning, but this also costs some time and money.

Breakfast in Italian hotels is usually worthless, just as in French hotels. It is better to get a freshly pressed juice, newly baked bread and cappuccino at a corner café.

Money

The currency in Italy is the lire (L.). Paper money is dominant, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 50000 and 100000 lire (L.), increasing in size with their value. Coins are for 50, 100, 200 and 500 lire.

Prices

Prices in Venice are unusually high by Italian standards and are increasing on par with Western Europe.

Shopping

Shops are generally open 9-12:30, 15:30-19:30 in winter, 16-20 in summer. Sometimes they close earlier on Saturday. Many tourist shops are open all day and Sunday.

Street numbers

Houses in Venice are not numbered according to streets, but to districts. A hotel at the street of Calle largo 22. Marzo has the address of San Marco 2159. This can be frustrating for strangers who do not have further information on locations.

Tipping

A service charge is generally included in restaurant bills. Some guests leave a few thousand lire extra. Gondoliers do not expect tips. Taxi drivers expect at least 10% from foreigners. Porters expect L. 1000 per bag.

Toilets

There are some public toilets in the center. The toilets in cafés are sometimes not up to standard, but generally they are acceptable in restaurants. Many of them are for crouching and not for sitting. Bring the paper if you are not visiting a restaurant.

Tourist office

Piazza San Marco 71c. Phone: 522 6356.

Uffici Informazioni.

Water

Tap water is usually clean and tasty in Venice. In restaurants most people drink bottled water.

Accommodation

Tourist offices at the Marco Polo airport at Venice and at the Piazzale Roma car park building in Venice find hotel rooms for travelers. Rooms with “twin bed” are often larger that those with “double bed”. Rooms on the canal side are often quieter and brighter that those on the street side. Rooms in Venice proper cost more than others, but you save time and transportation costs.

Airport

Marco Polo. Phone: 260 9260.

A taxi takes 15 minutes from Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma in Venice and a bus takes 30 minutes, costing L. 5000. A public boat, Vaporetto, is 50 minutes to San Marco, costing L. 15000. A water taxi is 25 minutes to any location in the city, costing L. 130000

News

International Herald Tribune and some other foreign newspapers are available at many kiosks in Venice. The main Venetian newspapers are Gazzettino and Nuova Venezia. There are three TV channels, Uno, Due and Tre, and additionally cable channels in many hotel rooms, including CNN. Information on what is on in Venice is in the free booklet, Un Ospite di Venezia.

Phone

The Italian country code is 39 and the local code for Venice is 41. The foreign code from Italy is 00.

Post

Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Rialto.

The Italian postal service is inefficient. The main post office in Venice is in the Fondaco dei Tedeschi palace beside the Rialto bridge.

Railways

Ferrovia Santa Lucia. Phone: 71 5555.

The Italian railway system is inexpensive and effective. The Santa Lucia railway station in Venice is near Piazzale Roma at the west end of Grand Canal. The public water transportation system is centered on the station.

Taxis

Phone: 522 2303.

Water taxis is the fastest way and the most expensive way to get around in Venice.

Traffic

The simplest way of exploring Venice is by foot. The city is only 5 km x 2 km. The next best transport is by water bus. Line 1 stops almost at all stations in Grand Canal. A three-day pass to all lines costs L. 30000 and a seven-day pass costs L. 55000. The romantic way of travel is by gondola, which costs L. 70000 per 50 minutes in daytime and L. 90000 at night.

Coffee

Italians are the first-class nation of coffee culture. They drink all their coffee freshly ground in espresso machines. Most often they drink espresso or caffè = very strong; doppio = double the size of an espresso; cappuccino = espresso mixed with air-whipped milk. Bad coffee for tourists is called americano. Italians usually have their coffee standing at the bar.

Cuisine

Foreigners often think that Italian cooking consists mainly of pastas after pastas. In fact this is more complicated. Italians do not talk of Italian cooking, but of Venetian, Tuscan, Ligurian, Latin and so on. In this database we concentrate on Roman cooking, even if we include restaurants representing other types of Italian cooking.

Eating habits

Italians do not eat much in the morning. They may have an espresso and cornetto at the corner café or bakery. Lunch often starts at 13:30 and dinner at 20:30. Both lunch and dinner are hot meals and are equally important. Italians like food and consume it with abandon.

They are on the other hand careful with the wine and some only drink water. Tap water is very good and clean in Rome, coming in ducts from the mountains. In restaurants most people have bottled water though, aqua minerale, often with gas, gassata.

Menus

An Italian menu typically has five sections: Antipasti = starters; pasti or asciutti or primi platti = pasta courses; secundi piatti = fish or meat; contorni or verdure = vegetables and salads; dolci and frutti and formaggi = sweets, fruit and cheeses.

There are no rules on the number of courses in a menu. Some have a starter and then two pastas, one after the other. The usual thing is to have three courses. It could be a starter, a pasta and a meat course. Or it could be a pasta, a meat, a side course. Or a pasta, a meat and a dessert.

The price of a starter, pasta or a bottle of the house wine is usually two times the price of a side course or a dessert; and the price of a main course is usually three times the price. The prices in this database are usually calculated on the basis of a starter, a second course, a side course, a dessert, mineral water and coffee. All prices are for two persons.

Restaurants

Lunch hour is 13:30-15, dinner 20:30-23. In most places the owner or some waiters understand English. Venetian restaurants are generally small and clean, sometimes accidentally decorated. They usually have linen tablecloths and linen napkins, most often white.

Nowhere in the world is the service in restaurants better than in Italy. The waiters are generally quick and effective. They hurry with the courses until you arrive at the last course. Then everything slows down. It seems that Italians like to eat in a hurry and then to linger on over the wine glass or coffee. Quick service does not mean that the waiter wants to get rid of you.

Seafood

Many Venetian restaurants specialize in Antipasto di frutti di mare = mixed seafood as a starter. It offers samples of many tasty things such as:

Aragosta = lobster;

Calamari and Seppie = squid;

Cappe and Vongole = shellfish;

Cappesante = scallops; Folpi and Polipo = octopus;

Gamberi = big prawns;

Granceola = spider crabs; and

Scampi = Dublin Bay prawns.
Popular with locals is

Baccalà mantecata = plucked stockfish, mixed with olive oil, parsley and garlic. Common fish from the Adriatic are

Branzino = sea bass;

Rospo = angler fish;

Orata = gilt head;

Rombo = brill;

San Pietro = John Dory;

Sogliola = sole; and

Spigola = sea bass.

Generally they are best grilled.

Specialities

Seafood is the most important aspect of Venetian cooking. Otherwise one of the main specialties is Polenta = maize puré, often sliced and grilled. Another is Fegato alla veneziana = pan-fried calf liver with onions. Popular is Carpaccio = thin slices of raw beef with olive oil and salad. A classic course is Insalata mista = mixed salad, usually very good.

The most famous dessert of Venice is Tiramisù, a kind of a cheese truffle, spiced with coffee and chocolate. It derives from Byzantium and has spread from Venice through the West. Cheeses from the Veneto area are Asiago, Fontina and Montasio. Most restaurants also offer Grana, Taleggio and Gorgonzola.

Wine

The house wine is usually well chosen and economical, either bianco or rosso, white or red. Connoisseurs can have a look at the list to find something unusual, as no country in the world has as many different labels. Italian wine is generally good, sound and simple, but lacking in great growths. Italians do not take their wine as seriously as the French do.

The wine areas north and west of Venice are Veneto and Friuli. The best wines have both area denomination and grape variety on the etiquette. Some Merlot comes from Colli Euganei. Other good Veneto districts are Breganze, Piave, Gambellara, Pramaggiore and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. In Friuli are Aquileia, Collio Goriziano, Colli Orientali, Grave del Friuli, Isonzo and Latisana.

Farther west, in the hills around Verona, there are still better known wine districts, such as Bardonlino, Valpolicella, Soave, and inside them still smaller and better areas, called Superiore and Classico at the top end.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Ambassador

Cuesta de Santo Domingo 5. Phone: 541 6700. Fax: 559 1040. Price: Pts.20800 ($166) without breakfast. All major cards. 163 rooms. (A2).

Near the opera and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Atlántico

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 531 0210. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

California

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 4703. Fax: 531 6101. Price: Pts.7900 ($63) without breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Carlos V

Maestro Vitoria 5. Phone: 531 4100. Fax: 531 3761. Price: Pts.12500 ($100) with breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (B2).

A small hotel on a peaceful pedestrian street in the shopping area between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The staff is helpful and cheerful.

Room no. 209 has a balcony overlooking the street, where a violinist and a flutist alternated in producing soft and gentle notes for hours on end. It is smallish and comfortable with old furniture and a neat bathroom.

Casón del Tormes

Rio 7. Phone: 541 9746. Fax: 541 1852. Price: Pts.12000 ($96) without breakfast. All major cards. 63 rooms. (A2).

A few steps from Plaza de España and Jardines de Sabatini. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Condes

Los Libreros 7. Phone: 521 5455. Fax: 521 7882. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) without breakfast. All major cards. 68 rooms. (B2).

Near Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cortezo

Dr. Cortezo 3. Phone: 369 0101. Fax: 369 3774. Price: Pts.11300 ($90) without breakfast. All major cards. 88 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza Benavente and 300 meters from Plaza Major. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Emperador

Gran Via 53. Phone: 547 2800. Fax: 547 2817. Price: Pts.14100 ($113) without breakfast. All major cards. 232 rooms. (A2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Europa

Carmen 4. Phone: 521 2900. Fax: 521 4696. Price: Pts.8200 ($66) without breakfast. No cards. (B2).

One of the best buys in town, an inexpensive hotel with friendly staff a few steps from Plaza Puerta del Sol.

Half the rooms have a sideways view to the Puerta del Sol and the others overlook a flowery atrium. Breakfast is not served and there is a breakfast café next door.

Room no. 214 is large and quaint with a sitting area near a balcony that has some view to the square. There is no motor traffic in the street and the windows are double-glazed, ensuring peace. There is no TV set and no air-condition. The large bathroom is fully tiled and functions well.

Francisco I

Arenal 15. Phone: 248 0204. Fax: 542 2899. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) without breakfast. All major cards. (A2).

On the street connecting Plaza Puerta del Sol and Plaza Oriente. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Inglés

Echegaray 8. Phone: 429 6551. Fax: 420 2423. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) without breakfast. All major cards. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza de Canalejas. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Italia

Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada 2. Phone: 522 4790. Fax: 521 2891. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Liabeny

Salud 3. Phone: 532 5306. Fax: 532 7421. Price: Pts.17900 ($143) without breakfast. All major cards. 224 rooms. (B2).

A comfortable hotel on a pedestrian street in the shopping district between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The hotel is Mexican owned and has many guests from Latin America. There is no traffic noise around it.

Room no. 201 is of a normal size, unusually well furnished. It has a luxurious bathroom of marble and tiles.

Mayorazgo

Flor Baja 3. Phone: 547 2600. Fax: 541 2485. Price: Pts.16100 ($129) without breakfast. All major cards. 200 rooms. (A2).

Well situated in a quiet location a few steps from Gran Vía, near Plaza de Españja.

The picturesque furnishings emulate a Castilian castle, both in the public areas and in the guest rooms. Prices of rooms are variable.

Room no. 323 is of the more inexpensive type, rather small and well furnished with a parquet and good carpets on the floor and equipped with a trouser press. The marble bathroom functions well.

Mercator

Atocha 123. Phone: 429 0500. Fax: 369 1252. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 89 rooms. (C3).

A few steps from Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and Jadrín Botánico. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Moderno

Arenal 2. Phone: 531 0900. Fax: 531 3550. Price: Pts.10500 ($84) without breakfast. All major cards. 100 rooms. (B2).

A practical hotel a few steps from the main square in central Madrid, Plaza Puerta del Sol.

The clean and faded hotel has parquet floors and polished furniture. Breakfast is not served, but the best breakfast café in town, Mallorquina, is around the corner.

Room no. 412 has an inside location. It has a parquet floor and all the amenities in the bathroom.

Palace

Plaza de las Cortes 7. Phone: 429 7551. Fax: 429 8266. Price: Pts.40000 ($320) without breakfast. All major cards. 436 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. Palace is the parliamentary hotel, handy for the next door parliament on the other side of Carrera de San Jeronimo. Prado Museum is on the other side of Paseo del Prado. Palace is thus in the middle of the action in Madrid.

There are extensive and luxurious saloons on the ground floor, including a circular coffee lounge with a glass roof. On the upper floors there are several lounges in the corridors and near the elevators. The building is from 1912 and has been refurbished according to the latest demands and fashions. Service is very good.

Room no. 106 is old-fashioned, rather large, furnished with inlaid wood, leather chairs and an exclusive carpet, in addition to all the comforts. The large bathroom has lots of tiles and mirrors. There is some noise from the street, but more quiet rooms at the rear are also available.

París

Alcalá 2. Phone: 521 6496. Fax: 531 0188. Price: Pts.11000 ($88) with breakfast. All major cards. 1204 rooms. (B2).

Perfectly situated just on Plaza Puerta del Sol, the center of Madrid, with many rooms overlooking the square.

It is also inexpensive, partly due to the lack of an elevator. It is gleaming with cleanliness and polish. The rooms which do not have a view to the square, overlook a flowery atrium.

Room no. 221 overlooks the square. The balcony is a perfect spot for observing the constant goings-on in the square from 7 in the morning to 5 in the morning. It has no TV set and needs none. The double glazing prevents noises entering the room when the window is closed. The parquet floor is well polished and the fully tiled bathroom functions perfectly.

Prado

Prado 11. Phone: 369 0234. Fax: 429 2829. Price: Pts.16500 ($132) without breakfast. All major cards. 47 rooms. (B2).

Between Plaza Santa Ana og Plaza Canovás del Castillo. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Regina

Alcalá 19. Phone: 521 4725. Fax: 521 4725. Price: Pts.11900 ($95) without breakfast. All major cards. 142 rooms. (B2).

On the main street leading to Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ritz

Plaza de la Lealtad 5. Phone: 521 2857. Fax: 532 8776. Price: Pts.49500 ($396) without breakfast. All major cards. 127 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Santo Domingo

Plaza Santo Domingo 13. Phone: 547 9800. Fax: 547 5995. Price: Pts.17500 ($140) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A2).

Between Gran Vía and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Suecia

Marqués de Casa Riera 4. Phone: 531 6900. Fax: 521 7141. Price: Pts.20000 ($160) without breakfast. All major cards. 119 rooms. (B2).

Just behind the parliament building, on a quiet square with light traffic, one of he first hotels in Madrid to offer non-smoking guest rooms.

A quaint coffee bar is on a platform inside the foyer. The personal gives a warm welcome.

Room no. 201 is on the small side, with sound-insulated windows out to he square, furnished with potted plants and some mirrors. It is in light, summer blue colors. The bathroom is very good.

Victoria

Plaza de Santa Ana 14. Phone: 531 4500. Fax: 522 0307. Price: Pts.23000 ($184) without breakfast. All major cards. 195 rooms. (B2).

Well situated at the two squares of Santa Ana and Ángel, two noisy centers of the main district of cafés and bars just south of Plaza Puerta del Sol.

This was formerly the lodging of bullfighters and Hemingway. Now it has been modernized inside. The facade though is a protected monument. An immense and luxurious lounge is on the ground floor. Most rooms have bay windows to one of the two squares.

The spacious room no. 306 has a bay window overlooking Plaza del Ángel. The quality furnishings are tasteful and the bathroom is luxurious.

Washington

Gran Vía 72. Phone: 541 7227. Fax: 547 5199. Price: Pts.14000 ($112) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A1).

A few steps from Plaza de España. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Boston Club
1 Kattengat. (B1).
One of the best discos for fashion-conscious grown ups is in the Renaissance hotel near the central railway station. You can even be seen there with a tie.

Melkweg
Lijnbaansgracht 234. Phone: 624 1777. (A2).
Behind Stadsschouwburg and Leidseplein is a disused milk factory behind a canal and a drawbridge. It is now an art center for young people. The door is locked so you must knock, but it is easy to buy a cheap 3-month membership card.
Inside there are exhibitions, plays, noise production, dancing and the technically best cinema outfit in town. Besides there are a few restaurants, for example one for vegetarians. Also a book market, a flea market, a bar and a tearoom.
People wander around until they find something to their liking. If everything is too far out, it is always possible to browse in the book market. The spot is open on full blast 21-01 and disco is after that.

Paradiso
Weteringschans 6. Phone: 623 7348. (A3).
A disused church, now a youth center, 100 meters from Leidseplein. It has for many years been a focus for modern popular music. At first there was pop, then punk, heavy rock and the newest waves. Sometimes the groups are unknown, sometimes world-known. It is not a spot for a quiet evening.

Shaffy
Keizersgracht 324. (A2).
A multi-culture center, avant-garde in theater, films, art, music and dance. You don’t have to know what is going on, just arrive and have a look. Some of the happenings will probably be tempting enough for you to stay on.

Drie Fleschjes
Gravenstraat 16. (B1).
Behind Nieuwe Kerk, a few steps from Dam, a sympathetic jenever tasting pub from 1650, old and worn, popular with businessmen from the neighborhood. Some companies have their private jenever casks on these premises. An amusing private closet for two in a corner.

Hoppe
Spui 20. (A2).
The first and original Hoppe, on Spui square, well known for important guests effortlessly and democratically mingling with the lower classes. It still has sawdust on the floor, completely tasteless furnishings and is almost always full to the brim.

Pilsener Club
Begijnensteeg. (B2).
In an alley leading off Kalversstraat to the Begijnhof garden, catering to bridge players from all social classes. It has sand on its white floor. The bridge players surprisingly sometimes are more noisy than other guests.

Pilserij
Gravenstraat 10. (B1).
In an alley behind Nieuwe Kerk, a few steps off Dam and Damrak, a dark and romantic pub in Art Noveau style, with a high ceiling and a balcony with hanging greenery over the rear saloon.

Wijnlokaal Mulliner’s
Kleine Lijnbaansgracht 267. (A3).
There is more than coffee to the Leidseplein area. Also some wine bars where Amsterdammers have a sip after work and before going home or to some entertainment venue. One of the best ones is Wijnlokaal Mulliner’s, 100 meters from Leidseplein.
It specializes in port wine of all ages, up to a little over half a century old. The bar is in almost a full circle in the middle. Customers stand at the bar or sit at small tables in the corners.

Wynand Fockink
Pijlsteeg 31. (B2).
In a narrow alley leading from Dam past the Krasnapolsky, this is an interesting jenever tasting pub in Amsterdam, tendered by the talkative philosopher Gijsberti Hodenpijl. This local with shuttered windows has remained unchanged for more than three centuries. Old wine bottles grace the walls. The bar counter is looking very old.
There are no seats. You just stand at the bar, bend down with your hands behind your back and take the first sip from the almost overflowing glass. These places are not meant for lingering, you just step in, take your drink and get lost.

Cafes

Bakke Grond
Nes 43. (B2).
A comfortable Belgian café on an alley leading off Dam, 200 meters from the square, connected with a Flemish cultural center, popular with theater spectators. It specializes in Belgian beer.

Blincker
St. Barbarenstraat 7. Hours: Opens 17:00. (B2).
In a maze of alleys south of Dam and east of Rokin, on two levels, with lots of glass and greenery, decorated with masks. It is convenient for theater spectators.

Café Americain
Leidsekade 97. (A3).
An important café in the city, at the main square of sidewalk cafés, Leidseplein. It is on the ground floor of the American hotel and is the best known part of its Art Noveau style. The decorations have official protection, including the strange chandeliers, beams and arches, velvet fabrics and stained windows.
Spioness Mata Hari celebrated her wedding here. For years this has been the place where local and foreign artists sit and talk for hours. In addition to coffee and cakes there are available inexpensive courses of the day, some snacks and a tourist menu.
The outdoor chairs are popular with tourists who meet here after shopping, but the real atmosphere is inside.

Café de Jaren
Nieuwe Doelenstraat. (B2).
Newspaper reading cafés are numerous and popular with the locals. This is beside hotel Doelen in the university area. It is a big room with a high ceiling, full of university students, some reading text books or magazines and others talking at full blast. A big balcony is on the Amstel river side. Many newspapers and magazines are in the English language.

Eijlders
Korte Leidsedwarstraat 47. (A2).
Two steps off Leidseplein, a café that doubles as a modern art gallery, still patronized by local artists. The tables are worn after the elbows of generations. It is happily more patronized by locals than by tourists.

Engelbewaarder
Kloveniersburgwal 59. Phone: 625 3772. (B2).
A simple and comfortably run-down café with wood floors, one of the main literary cafés in Amsterdam, with scheduled readings and Sunday afternoon jazz. It is a nice reading room on a rainy day.

Het Hok
Leidsekruisstraat. (A3).
Two chess cafés are side by side on the corner of Lange Leidsdwarsstraat, just 100 meters from Leidseplein. This is on the corner and the other is Domino. This one has more atmosphere. It is spacious and well patronized by regulars. Such chess cafés have for decades been a hallmark of Amsterdam.

Land van Walem
Keizersgracht 449. Phone: 625 3544. (A2).
Very popular and busy reading café on a canal a few steps from Leidsestraat. Its choice of foreign newspapers is unusually great, attracting travelers.

Morlang
Keizersgraacht 451. Phone: 625 2681. (A2).
A quiet and relaxing reading café just a few steps off Leidsestraat.

Pieper
Prinsengracht 424. (A2).
A typical pub near Leidsegracht, rustic and dark, accidentally furnished and comfortable, with a long history of fame.

Reijnders
Leidseplein 6. (A2).
One of the best known cafés in town, at Leidseplein, for a long time an artists’ hangout, but now just a place where local people meet over coffee while waiting to go somewhere else. There are some sidewalk tables. Inside there are lots of old wooden tables and chairs, rather unorganized. A billiard table is at the rear.
This is a folksy, dingy place with lots of good local atmosphere. Few tourist are seen there in spite of the location.

Scheltema
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242. (B2).
Almost immediately behind the Koninklijk Paleis, this cellar pub with creaking floors in former days attracted neighboring journalists with its fireplace and a big reading table in the center. It still is charming.

Upstairs
Grimburgwal 2. (B2).
Pannekoekenhuis, or pancake houses are typically Dutch cafés, offering big pancakes in endless variants. Ginger pancakes are the traditional ones. This pancake house is on the first floor of an extremely narrow house a few steps from Rokin. It can take only twelve guests at a time and they have to brave the almost vertical staircase. Picturesque, this one.

Albert Cuypstraat
(B3).
The main victuals market in the city, extending a few blocks to the east from the corner of Ferdinand Bolstraat. It has grown in later years because of the influx of Surinamese coming from the former colony of Dutch Guyana and of other people from afar, who have settled down in the Pijp quarter around the market.
Here you can get the most strange and exotic spices, fish and vegetables, fruit and flowers. The colors are brilliant, the choices are immense and inexpensive. The redolence is both exotic and charming. For example the flavor of pancakes, filled with meat and vegetables. Or of Barras, which is a type of pea dumplings.
The market is closed Sundays.

Artis Zoo
Plantage Kerklaan 40. Phone: 523 3400. (C3).
Founded in 1838 this spacious zoo has more than 900 animal species, in addition to plants in three spacious greenhouses. It also incorporates an excellent Aquarium, containing almost 500 species; a Planetarium; and a Geological Museum.

1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson

Abbaye Saint-Germain

10 rue Cassette, 75006. Phone: 4544 3811. Fax: 4548 0786. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) without breakfast. All major cards. 42 rooms. (D5).

An 18th C. residence with elegant service and a private garden near Saint-Sulpice, between Jardin du Luxembourg and Boulevard Saint-Germain, just south of Rue de Mézieres, on the left side of Rue Cassette. The comfortable hotel is entered through a garden and an arcade.

Behind the glass entrance there is a large lobby with thick sofas in several seating areas in diferent color, separated by colomns, doubling as a breakfast room. Service is unusually good. The best rooms are on the ground floor.

Room no. 35 is spacious, wallpapered in yellow, with large and thick curtains, quality furniture of wood and bast, marble and glass, large chairs. The fully tiled bathroom has all the amenities, including a hair dryer.

Agora

7 rue de la Cossonnerie, 75001. Phone: 4233 4602. Fax: 4233 8099. Price: FFr.595 ($117) without breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (E4).

A small and inexpensive hotel with the main attraction of being in a pedestrian district between the Pompidou museum and the Halles shopping mall, near the garish Rue St-Denis though. Its reception is on the first floor of a narrow house.

The small reception is snug and the staff are exemplary. The elevator of less than 2 cubic meters is probably one of the smallest in existence.

Room no. 52 in light blue color is quiet and clean, very small and sparsely equipped with tired furniture, such as a collapsible table and a stool. It lacked a wastebasket and just managed to fit in a TV set. The fully tiled bathroom is better, furnished with a smallish towel.

Angleterre

44 rue Jacob, 75006. Phone: 4260 3472. Fax: 4260 1693. Price: FFr.1100 ($216) without breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (D4).

A lovely hotel in a former British embassy in the area between the Seine and Boulevard Saint-Germain, on the northern side of Rue Jacob, between Rue des Saints-Pères and Rue Bonaparte, entered through a gate and a courtyard.

The lobby includes a piano bar, a sitting area, a breakfast area and a garden with a fountain. The good service fits the excellent surroundings.

The extra large room no. 26 is exquisite, almost an apartment, entered through a foyer into a large bedroom area with massive and carved furniture of dark wood, including a beautiful wardrobe. A dining area is upstairs with a safe, prominent beams and two large windows offering a view to Rue Jacob. The marble bathroom in two parts has all amenities, including a jacuzzi bath.

Atala

10 Rue Chateaubriand, 75008. Phone: 4562 0162. Fax: 4225 6638. Price: FFr.900 ($176) without breakfast. All major cards. 48 rooms. (B3).

Conveniently situated between two buildings of the Chamber of Commerce, 400 meters from the Étoile and Arc de Triomphe.

The hotel has a rare plus in this city, a charming garden at the back. The fragrance of the flora helps to make it a coveted oasis alongside the throngs of Champs-Élysées.

Period furnishings in blue and moss green are in room no. 54, also chandeliers, not only in the ceiling but also over the beds. It is commodious and has a special anteroom. The TV set is conveniently fastened to the wall. The bathroom is well tiled and in perfect condition. The only minus is the bad sound isolation. The best plus is the enormous window to the garden.

Bradford

10 Rue Saint-Philippe-du-Roule, 75008. Phone: 4563 2020. Fax: 4563 2007. Price: FFr.800 ($157) with breakfast. All major cards. 48 rooms. (C3).

A good value in the district of fashion shops around Faubourg Saint-Honoré, only 100 meters from that street and 300 meters from Champs-Élysées.

This is a solid and an old-fashioned family hotel from the turn of the century. In spite of that it does not look tired. The staff is elderly and uncommonly friendly. The glass lift might be the oldest in Paris and some did not dare to use it. It served us well.

Room no. 56 is ample and has a balcony with a view to Tour Eiffel. The furniture is old-fashioned but not tired at all. Flowery decorations are on the wallpaper and window curtains. The bathroom is tiled in an old-fashioned white color.

Bristol

112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008. Phone: 4266 9145. Fax: 4266 6868. Price: FFr.3000 ($588) without breakfast. All major cards. 205 rooms. (C3).

The aristocratic hotel in Paris, at the main fashion street in town, Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The presidential palace, Élysée, is only 150 meters to the east at the same street. Therefore foreign diplomats stay at the Bristol, except the American ones who stay at the Crillon, alongside their embassy and fronting Place de la Concorde. Bristol is considered slightly more dignified.

The lobby is particularly splendid. Marble and Persian rugs flow into every corner, all the way to the well tended garden. Here is the famous Bristol bar, albeit not crowded with diplomats. Bristol has a swimming pool, all furnished in wood, on the top floor. There was some disorganization in the lobby due to overbooking. Really not as perfect as it should be.

Room no. 424/425 is splendid, expansive and furnished in style. A decorous writing table is at the big window overlooking the garden. In the middle there is a magnificent chandelier.

De Nice

42 bis rue de Rivoli, 75004. Phone: 4278 5529. Fax: 4278 3607. Price: FFr.390 ($76) without breakfast. All major cards. 23 rooms. (F4).

A practical hotel on a main street near Hôtel de Ville. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Deux Iles

59 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 1335. Fax: 4329 6025. Price: FFr.830 ($163) without breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (F5).

Very small and beautiful, with a soul, in a 17th C. building on the main and mainly pedestrian street of the lovely Saint-Louis island, an oasis in the geographical center of the city.

The lobby is comfortable and tasteful, with a sofa and newspapers.

Room no. 23 is small and pretty, with large beams in the high ceiling, antique and matching furniture, a window to the peaceful garden. The fully tiled bathroom is excellent.

Du Jeu de Paume

5 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 1418. Fax: 4046 0276. Price: FFr.810 ($159) without breakfast. All major cards. 32 rooms. (F5).

A sanctuary in the very center of Paris, in a beautiful 17th C. city mansion on the mainly pedestrian street that runs the lenght of the lovely Saint-Louis island, a personal and an elegant hotel, entered through a gateway from the street.

The unusual lobby has prominent structural elements of stones and beams and stretches up to the roof, showing off the 17th C. construction. A glass elevator brings you up to the room and gives a view to the public areas of the hotel. The stone and woodwork has pale colors. Breakfast is served in a glassed-in garden. A sauna and some business amenities suit small meetings.

The bright and quiet room no. 202 is rather spacious and very comfortable, with dark beams contrasting with pale walls. A small windows offers scant view. The bathroom is in two parts, well equipped, including a hair dryer.

Du Louvre

Place André-Malroux, 75001. Phone: 4458 3838. Fax: 4458 3801. Price: FFr.1800 ($353) with breakfast. All major cards. 300 rooms. (E4).

A business hotel suitable for businessmen and intellectuals, with the Louvre on one side and Comédie Francaise and Palais Royal on the other. The biggest antique market, Louvre des Antiquaires, is on the third side. The shopping streets Rivoli and Saint-Honoré are alongside the hotel. The position could not be better.

This is a big hotel, covering a whole block. In spite of that it is not especially impersonal. The man with the keys even recognized us and did not have to ask for the room number. But there was some noise from tourist groups in the lobby.

Room no. 441 is ample and well furnished in modern style. It is quiet which is almost a miracle in this location. All the appointments are in perfect condition, such as the bathroom facilities.

Duc de Saint-Simon

14 Rue Saint-Simon, 75007. Phone: 4548 3566. Fax: 4548 6825. Price: FFr.1200 ($235) without breakfast. No cards. 29 rooms. (D4).

A tasteful and peaceful hotel in an old mansion only 100 meters from the main boulevard of the left bank, Boulevard Saint-Germain. It has for a long time been one of our favorites.

The relaxing oasis of a hotel is entered through a courtyard, behind which there is a quiet lobby and a sitting room furnished with antiques. Many rooms have access to or views to miniature gardens.

The furniture in room no. 24 is antique, an easy chair, a chest of drawers and a writing table used as a breakfast table. It has pleasant wallpaper and nice pictures of horses. The bathroom is beautifully tiled and well equipped. All colors fit. The room is one of those which have access to a semi-private garden on the roof of the first floor.

Ducs d’Anjou

1 Rue Sainte-Opportune, 75001. Phone: 4236 9224. Fax: 4236 1663. Price: FFr.565 ($111) with breakfast. All major cards. 38 rooms. (E4).

Conveniently situated in an old building on a small square in a knot of pedestrian alleys in the 1st district, a stone’s throw from busy Rue de Rivoli, only 200 meters away from Forum des Halles, 400 meters from Beaubourg and 600 meters from the Louvre.

The personnel was unusually friendly. The receptionist recognized guests from the beginning and handed out keys without asking for room numbers.

Room no. 43 is small and nice, with two big windows, opening to the lively pedestrian square, making it almost possible to learn French in bed. When the window was closed, all was quiet. The equipment is convenient and tasteful, such as the flowery wallpaper and the French wardrobe, albeit too small. The bathroom is ample, well tiled and with an efficient shower.

Esméralda

4 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, 75005. Phone: 4354 1920. Fax: 4051 0068. Price: FFr.510 ($100) without breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (E5).

A small hotel near the Seine and Notre Dame. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Hotel de Saint-Germain

50 rue du Four, 75006. Phone: 4548 9164. Fax: 4548 4622. Price: FFr.695 ($136) with breakfast. All major cards. 30 rooms. (D5).

A small hotel a few steps from the bustle of Saint-Germain. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Hotel Panthéon

19 place du Panthéon, 75005. Phone: 4354 3295. Fax: 4326 6465. Price: FFr.750 ($147) without breakfast. All major cards. 34 rooms. (E6).

Charming hotel on the Panthéon square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Le Notre-Dame

1 Quai Saint-Michel, 75005. Phone: 4354 2043. Fax: 4626 6175. Price: FFr.790 ($155) without breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (E5).

A few steps from Place Saint-Michel, on the corner of Quai Saint-Michel and Rue Saint-Jacques, combining a perfect central location with a view over the Seine, Ile de la Cité and Notre-Dame, illuminated in the evening and the night. The comfortable hotel is entered from the street through a glass door and stairs that lead to the first floor foyer.

There is a bar, a sitting area with newspapers, a good view and a blazing fireplace in the lobby of pre-war design.
Room no. 54 is spacious and bright, with matching furniture of good quality. Its main attraction is the evening view to

he lively pedestrian life on the quai and to the illuminated Notre-Dame cathedral. Double glazing gives good sound insulation from the outside, but you can hear the next room TV set. The well equipped bathroom is ordinary in style, with a marble washbasin though.

Lenox Saint-Germain

9 rue de l’Université. Phone: 4296 1095. Fax: 4261 5283. Price: FFr.780 ($153) without breakfast. All major cards. 32 rooms. (D4).

An attractive hotel in the western Latin quarter, at the eastern end of Rue de l’Université, just west of Rue des Saints Pères, on the southern side of the street.

The lobby has a marble floor and Persian carpets, a marble fireplace, three sitting areas and a breakfast bar.

The attic room no. 54 is on two levels. The foyer, with a spacious and fully tiled bathroom, leads into a living room with a high ceiling and antique furniture, including a writing desk and an oversized and gilded mirror. It leads out to a balcony with a table and chairs overlooking the street. Or up narrow stairs up to a bedroom with white beams, a sitting area and a TV set.

Lutèce

65 Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 2352. Fax: 4329 6025. Price: FFr.820 ($161) without breakfast. No cards. 23 rooms. (F5).

Just behind Notre-Dame, on the small Ile de Saint-Louis island, which is like a jolly in the tow of the bigger Ile de la Cité. The hotel is on the street running through the length of the island, a convenient starting point for walks to both the Left and the Right banks of the river Seine.

It is so restrained that you have to search for its name on the outside. This modesty is in accordance with conservation rules demanding that the exterior of Ile de Saint-Louis houses remain unchanged, making the whole island a Louis XIII museum. Entering the lobby we see a big fireplace, comfortable seating, modern paintings and a vast flower arrangement, all in style.

Room no. 41 is on the smallish side. It looks out to the locals’ morning food shopping in the famous Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Isle, a narrow 17th Century street with an endless row of specialty food shops. As befits a house of 250 years the rooms sports ancient beams, old furniture and a happy atmosphere for tired travelers. The bathroom is modern, tastefully tiled.

Noailles

9 rue de la Michodière, 75002. Phone: 4742 9290. Fax: 4924 9271. Price: FFr.850 ($167) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (D3).

A modern and elegant hotel of metal, glass and wood near the Garnier Opera, on the west side of the street, between Rue du Quatre Septembre and Rue St-Augustin.

A refined reception with a comfortable sitting area and a small library is staffed by pleasant staff. A glass elevator leads up to the guest rooms.

Room no. 301 is spacious and tasteful with modern furniture and colors in black, white, gray and greenish brown. Even the painting on the wall is unusually aesthetic. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and exquisite and has all the amenities, including a hair-dryer.

Pavilion de la Reine

28 place des Vosges, 75003. Phone: 4277 9640. Fax: 4277 6306. Price: FFr.1700 ($333) without breakfast. All major cards. 35 rooms. (G4).

Dignified and elegant, suitably located in a 17th C. building at the northern side of the oldest and probably the most beautiful squares in Paris. The powerful front has large windows and iron railings. The dashing entrance leads from the square through an arcade, an iron gate and a peaceful garden to a magnificient glass door.

The baroque and solemn lobby has leather chairs, antique furniture and a blazing fireplace. Service is exemplary.

The excellent room no. 42 is covered in beautiful, thick and red wallcloth and bedcover, equipped with solid, antique furniture and has a window overlooking the garden. The bathroom in marble is in two separate parts, with all the amenities, including bathrobes.

Place du Louvre

21 rue des Prêtres-Saint-Germain, 75001. Phone: 4233 7868. Fax: 4233 0995. Price: FFr.800 ($157) without breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (E4).

Charming hotel with antiques in a 16th C. building a few steps from the Louvre and the Seine. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Plaza Athénée

25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008. Phone: 4723 7833. Fax: 4720 2070. Price: FFr.3000 ($588) without breakfast. All major cards. 218 rooms. (B3).

The finest hotel in Paris and one of the best hotels in the world, on the fashion houses’ street Avenue Montaigne on the Right bank. Its attributes are the art noveau entrance, the Rollses and Mercedes’ in rows outside, the chauffeurs’ chatting round on the pavement and the sleek Doberman guarding the entrance. This is the correct address for the famous of the world.

The most famous aspect of Plaza-Athénée is the service, being the best in town. It is quick and efficient, without being servile. You get your bleu steak to your room five minutes after your order. A part of the magic comes from the staff being partners in profit. This is a relaxed hotel in spite of its size.

Room no. 102-103 fitted the price. It has a Persian carpet, an unused fireplace and period furniture, chandeliers even over the beds. The grand bathroom is delicately tiled and had bathrobes. The windows are directly over the entrance, with a view to the Rollses and Mercedes’, the chauffeurs and the paparazzi with their cameras.

Relais Christine

3 Rue Christine, 75006. Phone: 4326 7180. Fax: 4326 8938. Price: FFr.1600 ($314) with breakfast. All major cards. 51 rooms. (E5).
In a 16th Century convent on the Left bank, 250 meters from Boulevard Saint-Germain and 250 meters from Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cité. This is the heart of the old 6th district of cultural life in Paris, with famous restaurants abounding. The sign of the hotel is not obvious on the outside as is to be expected. The entrance to the lobby is through the garden.

The lobby is gorgeous as are the staircases showing the structure of the house. That structure is also evident in the arches in the cellar chapel where it is a must to have breakfast, albeit we never recommend French hotel breakfasts. Behind the lobby there is an amusing sitting room furnished with heavy chairs, massive paneling and respectful portraits.

Room no. 40 boasts of big beams in the ceiling, ancient furniture, such as a writing table, a floor lamp and a bedside table. The bedspread is heavy and all the walls are soft. The room is spacious and silent. It has all the modern amenities, in addition to an attractively tiled bathroom.

Récamier

3 bis place Saint-Sulpice, 75006. Phone: 4326 0489. Price: FFr.560 ($110) without breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (D5).

A quiet left bank hotel. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Saint-Louis

75 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4634 0480. Fax: 4634 0213. Price: FFr.770 ($151) without breakfast. All major cards. 21 rooms. (F5).

A small hotel, perfectley located on the Saint-Louis island in the Seine. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Select

1 place de la Sorbonne, 75005. Phone: 4634 1480. Fax: 4634 5179. Price: FFr.1300 ($255) without breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (E5).

An art decco hotel with large rooms directly in front of the Sorbonne. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tuileries

10 rue St-Hyacinte, 75001. Phone: 4261 0417. Fax: 4927 9156. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) without breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (D3).

A renovated hotel in a 17th C. mansion a few steps from the Tuileries. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Varenne

44 Rue du Bourgogne, 75007. Phone: 4551 4555. Fax: 4551 8663. Price: FFr.600 ($118) without breakfast. All major cards. 24 rooms. (C4).

Quietly situated in the ministries part of the 7th district, 150 meters from the Rodin museum and 300 meters from Invalides and Esplanade. The entrance is through a courtyard.

The courtyard also serves as an outdoors breakfast room in suitable weather. The rooms on the street side have double glazing and those on the courtyard side are naturally quiet.

Room no. 25 is rather small, but furnished with tasteful, modern equipage and delicate wallpaper. The relatively bigger bathroom at the outside wall has excellent appointments. The windows look out to the breakfast courtyard.

Vieux Marais

8 Rue du Plâtre, 75004. Phone: 4278 4722. Fax: 4278 3432. Price: FFr.550 ($108) without breakfast. All major cards. 30 rooms. (F4).

An oasis in the old, aristocratic quarter of Marais, which until recently was dilapidated but has come into fashion again. The hotel is only 250 meters from the Pompidou museum in Palais Beaubourg.

In the tasteful lobby pleasant staff care about customers.

Room no. 25 is long and narrow, very flowery papered, not only in the room itself but also above the tiles in the bathroom.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Bakken

Klampenborg. Hours: Open in summer.

An amusement park like Tivoli in the suburb of Klampenborg, more basic and with more space, popular with many locals.

Brønnum

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The senior actors and artists pub in town, conveniently situated between the Royal Theater and the Royal Academy of Arts at the central Kongens Nytorv Square. The antique bar is comfortably weary-looking and romantic.

Hviids Vinstue

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

One of the oldest pubs in the center, situated on Kongens Nytorv in several small rooms in a cellar reeking with antiquity. It looks like it must have looked in the 19th C. It has a low ceiling, hard benches and chairs. The visibility is poor due to tobacco smoke, and the guests never seem to leave, nor to stop ordering more beer.

When the happy hour arrives, this ancient wine bar fills up for a while with loud and happy people from the offices around. The congregate here before going out or home to dinner.

Library Bar

Bernstorffsgade 4. (A3).

Heavy wood, old books and thick leather are the hallmarks of this upper-class bar of the Plaza hotel, alongside the central railway station. Speech hushes into a whisper in the distinguished and irresistible library, dominated by a flower arrangement.

Vin & Ølgod

Skindergade 45. (B2).

The mood is usually exuberant in this moderately priced late evening beer hall accommodating 400 guests. Customers in high spirits stand on benches and sing along to old favorites. A small band and a jester keep things going. The place fits the older crowd. Beer is drunk freely from one-liter mugs and a few smørrebrød are devoured too.

It is a distant relative of the beer halls of Bavaria. Those are more brassy and these have milder music and songs of a more universally popular variety, the texts being conveniently provided in song-books at every seat. Guests sit on benches at long tables, join hands with neighbors, waive flags and dance waltzes and rhumbas.

If we want more quiet, we can order a window table upstairs in the English Pub, where we have an excellent view over the commotion. The Portuguese bistro can also be used in the same way. If we want to concentrate on beer-guzzling, there are long tables downstairs in Rådhuskælderen under seven centuries old vaults and ancient dungeon irons.

Cafe Dan Turéll

Skt. Regnegade 3-5. Phone: 3314 1047. (B2).

A tiny café in a small street near Kongens Nytorv, very “in” and crowded for several years, with literary and intellectual regulars.

Cafe Europa

Amagertorv 1. Phone: 3314 2889. (B2).

Perfectly situated on pedestrian Strøget, specializing in newspapers. It is good vantage point to observe the pedestrian commotion outside.

Cafe Krasnapolsky

Vestergade 10. Phone: 3332 8800. (A2).

A popular café with techno music and large windows near Rådhuspladsen, on the northern side of the street, between Larsbjørnsstræde and Gammeltorv. The kitchen is above par and the the service is getting slower all the time. A rectangular bar in the middle dominates the place.

Cafe Norden

Amagertorv. (B2).

Perfectly situated on pedestrian Strøget, specializing in cakes, on the corner of the shopping streets Købmagergade and Strøget. It is on two floors, but the most attractive part is the one that spills into the pavement in summer, when artists perform on the square.

Cafe Sommersko

Kronprinsensgade 6. Phone: 3314 8189. (B2).

On the southern side of the street, a few steps from the pedestrian Købmagergade, the Danish answer to Café Flora and Café Deux Magots in Paris. It is the mother of bohemian cafés in Copenhagen, brightly lit, has lots of mirrors and the staff are in uniform.

Falsled Kro

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Accademia

Fondamenta Bollani, 1058. Phone: 523 7846. Fax: 523 9152. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (A2).

Near the Accademia museum in the Dorsoduro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Agli Alboretti

Rio Terra Sant’Agnese, Dorsoduro 884. Phone: 523 0058. Fax: 521 0158. Price: L.182000 ($115) with breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (B2).

An amusing little hotel in an old and creaky house alongside the main museum in Venice, the Accademia. From the boat landing in front of the museum we go to the left of the museum. The hotel is in that street, about 100 meters from the landing.

The reception is small and quaintly old. There is no lift. The rooms either face the unusually large back garden or the rather wide street between the hotel and the Accademia.

Room no. 3 is rather small and simple, with a window to the garden, very clean, in mild colors, with a direct phone line and a hair dryer, but no TV set. The furniture is old-fashioned, almost antique. The bathroom is very small, but well equipped and fully tiled. The shower occupies a third of the space.

Ala

Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2494. Phone: 520 8333. Fax: 520 6390. Price: L.220000 ($139) with breakfast. All major cards. 85 rooms. (B2).

On a large square on the main street between Piazza San Marco and the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Astoria

Calle Fiubera, 951. Phone: 5422 5381. Fax: 520 0771. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 28 rooms. (B2).

About 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ateneo

Calle Minelli, 1876. Phone: 520 0777. Fax: 522 8550. Price: L.285000 ($180) with breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (B2).

In a cul-de-sac few steps from the Fenice opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Danieli

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Price: L.770000 ($486) with breakfast. All major cards. 221 rooms. (C2).

An excellent luxury hotel in the beautiful Gothic mediaeval former palace of the Dandolo family on the promenade alongside the lagoon, almost beside Palazzo Ducale. The hotel is in three parallel palaces and it is possible to stay for two thirds of the stated price, but the best luxury rooms in the oldest palace are those of interest, if you stay in a palace like this one.

The public rooms are extremely luxurious, in marble and precious hardwood, especially the reception and the spacious drawing room. The servants are variable, some are excellent and others should be brought down to earth. There is life music in the drawing room at British tea time and there are singers in the bar in the evening.

Room no. 33 is excellent, large and opulent, with a window facing the lagoon, the monastery island San Giorgio Maggiore and the pedestrian commotion on the promenade beneath. It has a creaky parquet and is in mild, green colors in soft wallcloths, curtains, bedcovers and a bar. The bathroom is unusually luxurious, all laid in the exquisite marble and extremely well equipped.

Do Pozzi

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2373. Phone: 520 7855. Fax: 522 9413. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (B2).

Our favorite hotel, small and cozy, in a main street, about 400 meters from Piazza San Marco, has the best quality to price ratio in town. From the southwestern corner of the piazza we walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where several alleys lead left off the street to Canal Grande. The signposted hotel is in the westernmost alley.

From a small and comfortable reception we can go through corridors to the Rafaele restaurant, which is in the same ownership. Long and narrow corridors to the guest rooms are decorated with drawings and paintings. The service is dexterous.

Room no. 75 is comfortable, rather small and bright, with a window to Calle larga 22. Marzo and creaks cozily when we pace the floor. The old furniture of quality is light and in mild summer colors. There is a TV set, a direct line and a minibar. The fully tiled bathroom has also a window and is well equipped, including a large bathtub and a hair dryer.

Europa e Regina

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Phone: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Price: L.565000 ($357) with breakfast. All major cards. 192 rooms. (B2).

One of the elegant Canal Grande hotels has a broad canal front, offering many choices of canalview rooms, opposite the Salute church on the other bank. It is on the main Calle large 22. Marzo, about 300 meters from the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and immediately turn left through an unmarked alley past the gondoliers.

The reception is in the building of the former Europa hotel and the best rooms are in the former Regina hotel. There are large public rooms downstairs, including the Tiepolo restaurant which doubles as the breakfast room. Service is excellent and fits the style and price of the hotel.

Room no. 456 is large and handsome, exuding quality and dignity. The light green walls demand larger paintings. Two doors lead out to a large private balcony with a splendid view over Canal Grande. The furnishings are beautifully old. The fully tiled bath has all the amenities. This is truly a luxury room.

Fenice et des Artistes

Campiello de la Fenice, San Marco 1936. Phone: 523 2333. Fax: 520 3721. Price: L.250000 ($158) with breakfast. All major cards. 65 rooms. (B2).

A well-known namesake of the main theater, which is on the same square, about 500 meters from Piazza San Marco. From the southwestern corner of the piazza we walk Salizzada San Moisè and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where we turn right into Calle delle Veste to Campo San Fantin in front of the theater. To the right of the theater is another square where the hotel is.

The reception is in a kind of a garden house between the two separate buildings of the hotel. The older building does not have an elevator, but the staircase and corridors are carpeted and decorated with antiques. The staff is not well informed about goings-on in town.

Room no. 312 is of medium size, warm and neatly equipped with old furnishings, a TV set and a direct line, with green colors in wallpapers, ovens, the carpet and the ceiling. The window overlooks a back garden. The fully tiled bathroom is well equipped and spacious, with a seat-bathtub.

Firenze

Salizzada San Moisè, 1490. Phone: 522 2858. Fax: 520 2668. Price: L.260000 ($164) with breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (B2).

Centrally located a few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Flora

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2283a. Phone: 520 5844. Fax: 522 8217. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 44 rooms. (B2).

A traditionally fine hotel and not expensive, well situated in a main street near Piazza San Marco, about 400 meters from the southwestern corner of the piazza. We walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where we turn left into the third alley from the far end of the street. The hotel is clearly signposted at the entrance of the alley.

Behind the Art Nouveau entrance there is a lot of leather and hardwood. A dignified staircase leads to the upper floors, decorated with mirrors and curtains, which characterize the hotel. The efficient staff is very pleasant and courteous. Those who are not addressed as “professore” are addressed as “dottore”.

Room no. 2 is old and worn, clean and comfortable, furnished with antiques, a TV set, direct line and a hair dryer. The windows face a well-tended garden behind the lobby. A fully tiled and modern bathroom has the usual amenities.

Giorgione

Santi Apostoli, 4587. Phone: 522 5810. Fax: 523 9092. Price: L.260000 ($164) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (B1).

A modern hotel about 100 meters from the street between Rialto and the railway station. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gritti

Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467. Phone: 79 4611. Fax: 520 0942. Price: L.700000 ($442) without breakfast. All major cards. 93 rooms. (B2).

One of the world famous luxury hotels of Venice, situated on Canal Grande. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Londra

Riva degli Schiavoni, 4171. Phone: 520 0533. Fax: 522 5032. Price: L.410000 ($259) with breakfast. All major cards. 65 rooms. (C2).

A luxury hotel on the lagoon promenade in the city center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Luna Baglioni

Calle larga dell’Ascensione, 1243. Phone: 528 9840. Fax: 528 7160. Price: L.500000 ($316) with breakfast. All major cards. 109 rooms. (B2).

Very centrally located, a few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Marconi

Riva del Vin, San Polo 729. Phone: 522 2068. Fax: 522 9700. Price: L.283000 ($179) with breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (B1).

An amusing and well situated hotel on the Canal Grande bank, a few steps from the Rialto bridge. From the Rialto boat landing we cross the bridge and turn left on the relatively spacious Riva del Vin.

Behind the entrance qualified people staff the small and neat reception. A complicated system of stairs leads to the upper floors, from which another staircase leads down to a breakfast rooms, where a buffet breakfast is served, unusual for Italy.

Room no. 11 is large and well equipped with antique furniture, a TV set and a direct line, hair dryer and minibar, a carpet on a terrazzo floor. It has quaintly ugly glass chandeliers in Rococo style on the walls. The fully tiled bathroom is large and modern, with a heated towel frame.

Monaco e Grand Canal

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1325. Phone: 520 0211. Fax: 520 0501. Price: L.400000 ($253) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (B2).

A precious hotel with a broad front and perfect view over Canal Grande to Santa Maria della Salute, unusually well located about 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. From the southwestern corner we walk a few steps along Salizzada San Moisè and turn left into Calle Vallaresso, where the hotel entrance is on the right side almost on the bank of the canal.

A plus of the hotel is that the majority of the rooms faces the broad and busy canal. The staff is very pleasant.

Room no. 306 is well equipped with solid and old furniture of lathed hardwood, a hand painted cupboard and a respectable writing desk, a TV set and a direct line. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and well furnished. The window faces Canal Grande.

Paganelli

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4182. Phone: 522 4324. Fax: 523 9267. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 22 rooms. (C2).

An economical hotel on the broad promenade on the lagoon bank about 300 meters from Palazzo Ducale. The San Zaccaria boat landing station is directly in front of the hotel which is in two parts. One is on the bank and the other in a side alley. The reception is in the former part where the rooms cost a little more, and the breakfast room is in the latter part.

The hotel is very small and tight, clean and comfortable, without an elevator, run by straightforward staff which does not try to hide its mistakes. Breakfast is rather good and includes fruit.

Room no. 23 is in the alley, very small, furnished with matching antiques, including a hand-painted writing desk. There is a direct phone line but no TV set. The old beams of the structure decorated the ceiling. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and well equipped. It includes a heated frame for its unusually large towels.

Rialto

Riva del Ferro, 5149. Phone: 520 9166. Fax: 523 8958. Price: L.290000 ($183) with breakfast. All major cards. 71 rooms. (B1).

A perfect Canal Grande location with a view to the Rialto bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

San Moisè
Piscina San Moisè, 2058. Phone: 520 3755. Fax: 521 0670. Price: L.270000 ($170) with breakfast. All major cards. 16 rooms. (B2).
A tiny hotel a few steps from the Fenice opera house. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

San Zulian
Piscina San Zulian, 535. Phone: 522 5872. Fax: 523 2265. Price: L.180000 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (C2).
Near the San Zulian church, 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Saturnia e International
Calle larga 22 Marzo, 2398. Phone: 520 8377. Fax: 520 7131. Price: L.400000 ($253) with breakfast. All major cards. 95 rooms. (B2).
On the main street from Campo San Marco to the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Serenissima
Calle Goldoni, 4486. Phone: 520 0011. Fax: 522 3292. Price: L.190000 ($120) with breakfast. All major cards. 34 rooms. (B2).
Between Piazza San Marco and Ponte Rialto. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sturion
Calle Sturion, San Polo 679. Phone: 523 6243. Fax: 522 8378. Price: L.180000 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 11 rooms. (B1).
A quaint and amusing hotel, only 100 meters from the Rialto bridge. From the Rialto boat landing we cross the bridge and turn left on the Riva del Vin bank and then right into the alley Calle Sturion, where the hotel is on the left side. From the entrance a very long and straight staircase leads up to the fourth floor.

A hotel by this name was in the building for five centuries, from the end of the 13th Century to the end of the 18th Century, known from old paintings and documents. After a pause of two centuries an hotel was opened again, but only on the top two floors of the building. It is a family business with a good breakfast room that has a view to Canal Grande. Two rooms share this view.

Room no. 10 is very quaint. It is really a long corridor with a tiny bathroom in front, then a foyer and a corridor with a sink and finally a bedroom in the inner end. From one small window there is a view over the roofs of the San Polo district. The furniture is old and clean. There is a TV set and a direct phone, a minibar and an hair dryer.

Torino

Calle della Ostreghe, 2356. Phone: 520 5222. Fax: 522 8227. Price: L.220000 ($139) with breakfast. All major cards. 19 rooms. (B2).

Centrally located on the main street from Piazza San Marco to the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Ainhoa

Bárbara de Braganza 12. Phone: 308 6698. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.11000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (C1).

One of many Basque places, a modern and simple restaurant with classic cooking, situated in the north-eastern part of the center, near Paseo de Recoletos.

The dining room is partioned in two by a wooden grill and covered with mirrors on one side.

• Marmitako = pea soup with turnip, potato and tuna.

• Revuelto de pisto = scrambled eggs with chopped olives.

• Merluza a la parilla = grilled hake.

• Rape a la koskera = turbot with green bean sauce.

• Tarta et truffa almondes = almond cake.

• Idiázabal = Basque cheese.

Al Mounia

Recoletos 5. Phone: 435 0828. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: Pts.9700 ($78) for two. All major cards. (C2).

The best Moorish restaurant in Spain is in central Madrid, near Paseo de Recoletos, combining cooking and atmosphere.

It is divided into a few rooms decorated from top to bottom in Moorish style, evoking memories from Alhambra in Granada and Mezquita in Córdoba. Guests sit in sofas at low sofa-tables and enjoy especially good service.

• Al Mounia panache = pancakes of the house.

• Brochette khefta = skewered meat balls.

• Chicken with almonds and meat fumé.

• Grilled lamb.

• Cordero mechoui = oven-braised lamb.

• Taginé = minced chicken.

• Alcuzcuz = Maghreb hash.

• Almond sweets.

• Mint tea.

Asador de Aranda

Preciados 44. Phone: 547 2156. Hours: Closed Monday dinner. Price: Pts.7600 ($61) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Castilian restaurant in a pedestrian area around the main department stores in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bajamar

Gran Vía 78. Phone: 548 4818. Fax: 559 1326. Price: Pts.15000 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A1).

The best-known seafood restaurant in town, receiving airborne fish every day, popular with tourists and businessmen, in a basement on the corner of Plaza de España and Gran Vía.

An aquarium with lobsters awaits customers when the have descended the staircase. The dining room is rather cool, sheathed in bright wood Scandinavian style, like a Norwegian hotel from 1965.

• Steamed lobster.

• Dublin Bay prawns in garlic oil.

• Baked apple.

• Torrija de la casa = rice pudding with cinnamon.

Botín

Cuchilleros 17. Phone: 366 4217. Fax: 366 8494. Price: Pts.9800 ($78) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Down the steps from the southwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, 100 meters down the street on the left side, Antigua Casa Sobrino de Botín, founded in 1725, one of the very oldest restaurants in the world. This was the venue of the final chapter of Hemingway’s rising sun, not surprisingly since he was a regular here. The place is also mentioned in his story on an afternoon death.

It was originally only on the ground floor but has been expanded into two upper floors. It is not only popular with tourists but also with locals. The tavern has old and quaint furnishings, including porcelain tiles on the walls and marble in the floors. The kitchen oven has been in use since the start of the restaurant.

• Black sausages Burgos.

• Ham on melon.

• Cordero asado = braised lamb.

• Cochinillo asado = braised baby pork.

• Cheese cake with raspberries.

Buey II

Plaza de la Marina Española 1. Phone: 541 3041. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near the royal palace and the Sabatine gardens. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Café de Oriente

Plaza de Oriente 2. Phone: 541 3974. Fax: 547 7707. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (A2).

One of the very best restaurants in central Madrid, a Basque one, run by Chef Bernardo Santos, influenced by Nouvelle Cuisine. It is opposite the Royal Palace, really two places in one as you have to enter an alley to get into the better one on the left side.

The solemn dining room is wealthy and homey at the same time. Service is excellent.

• Lobster salad.

• Asparagus mousse with sea lamprey and seaweed.

• Pigeon breast.

• Sliced beef fillet.

• Nougat ice-cream flambé with timbale.

• Black-currant sorbet with blackberry sauce.

Casa Gallega

Plaza San Miguel 8. Phone: 547 3055. Price: Pts.8000 ($64) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Galician cooking a few steps from Plaza Major and Plaza de la Villa. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Casa Lucio

Cava Baja 35. Phone: 365 3252. Fax: 366 4866. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch. Price: Pts.10200 ($82) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Near the far end of the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, frequented by politicians and artists, bullfighters and television people.

Its two storeys are always full to the brim. Service is good for the regulars, less so for the others.

• Melón con jamón = ham on melon.

• Jamón de Jabugó = Jabugó ham.

• Shells.

• Revuelto de patatas con huevo = omelet with chips.

• Lenguado de la casa = sole.

• Solemillo = beef steak.

• Perdices = partridge marinated in vinaigrette.

• Arroz con leche = Milky rice pudding with caramel crust.

Casa Marta

Santa Clara 10. Phone: 548 2825. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.6000 ($48) for two. All major cards. (A2).

A few steps from the opera and Plaza de Orientes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Casa Paco

Puerta Cerrada 11. Phone: 366 3166. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9200 ($74) for two. No cards. (A2).

On the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor along Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, a celebrity eatery with extremely simple furnishings.

The main decoration are the endless pictures covering a good part of the walls of many small dining rooms. Theater personalities frequent this place for beef and salad. Coffee is not served.

• Jamón serrano = ham.

• Cochinillo asado = braised pork.

• Solomillo de buey = beef filet.

• Flan = fruit flan.

• Tarta Santiago = tart of the house.

Club 31

Alcalá 58. Phone: 531 0092. Price: Pts.14000 ($112) for two. All major cards. (C2).

One of the best restaurants in Madrid, a kind of a ladies’ club at dinner and a gentlemen’s club at lunch, is near the corner of Alcalá and Plaza de la Independencia. Ángel Paracuellos practices classic cuisine.

It is a large, dark brown room that would be bare if it were not full of noisy people all the time. The furnishings are unusual. A large carpet is on one wall, another is of cork and the third of wood. Lots of waiters keep milling around.
• Souffle de rodaballo con bacon a las finas herbas = turbot mousse.

• Cacaroles de borgona con foie en nido de patata asado = snails with goose liver on a baked potato.

• Rodaballo al horno con setas = turbot with mushroom.

• Pata azulón a la naranja y compota de membrillo = duck in orange.

• Perdiz asada en hoja de vid = partridge with baked potato.

• Venado estilo australio, ciruelas, parsas y pinones = venison Australian style, with prunes and raisins.

• Crepes de manzana al calvados con sorbete al cava = flambéed pancakes with apple filling.

• Nuestra tarta milhojas = puff pastry.

Comedor

Montalbán 9. Phone: 531 6968. Fax: 531 6191. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9600 ($77) for two. All major cards. (C2).

BetweenPlaza de Cibeles and Parque del Buen Retiro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cuevas de Luis Candelas

Cuchilleros 1. Phone: 366 5428. Fax: 366 1880. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Restaurant in old Madrid style with musicians, on the steps leading down from Plaza Mayor. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Don Pelayo

Alcalá 33. Phone: 531 0031. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

On the main street leading to Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Errota Zar

Jovellanos 3. Phone: 531 2564. Fax: 531 2564. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the best of many good Basque restaurants in Madrid is on the short walk between the parliament building and hotel Suecia. The cooking is in traditional Basque style.

It is in a long, green room where guests sit in noble chairs at tables clothed in green linen.

• Gratinado de ostras sobre roseta de tomate a la muselina de aromáticos = gratinated oysters with tomato.

• Milhofas de paloma y foie a la gelatina de frambuesa = warm pigeon liver and duck liver in gelatine.

• Solomillo con foie-gras a las uvas = beef filet with goose liver.

• Ragout de cievres = venison in thick prune sauce.

• Bacalao al pil-pil = salt-cod.

• Suprema de perdiz en lecho de col fresada = partridge breast.

• Pudding de arroz con leche a la crema de cirulas farsas = rice pudding with plum puré.

• Charlota de peras con caramelo al Williams = pear tart with caramel sauce.

• Idiázabal = Basque cheese.

Espejo

Paseo de Recoletos 31. Phone: 308 2347. Fax: 593 2223. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (C1).

Directly on Paseo de Recoletos, one of the most beautiful restaurants in Madrid, a lively place in turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau style.

Lots of mirrors, porcelain tiles and leaded lampshades are the main attraction. The service is also very good. The cooking hails from Navarra and the Basque country.

• Espárragos Navarra = asparagus marinated in oil.

• Ensalade de langosta, melón y salmón ahumado = a salad of shrimp, melon, smoked salmon and small tomatoes.

• Escalopines de cordero = slices of leg of lamb.

• Pato e la laranja = duck in orange.

• Profiteroles de nata con chocolate = puff pastry with cream and hot chocolate.

• Flan al caramelo = caramel pudding.

Esteban

Cava Baja 36. Phone: 365 9091. Fax: 366 9391. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Near the far end of the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, frequented by journalists, media people and theater people.

Everybody seems to know each other. People amble between tables exchanging greetings just as at a party. The furnishings are old and dark and amusingly accidental. Old beams are much in evidence. The cooking is very old-fashioned.

• Alcachofas con almejas = artichokes with shells in a soup.

• Pimientos rellenos de bacalao = salt cod in paprika.

• Solomillo de corzo = venison filet.

• Rabo de toro estofado = ox tail dressing.

• Cordero asada = braised lamb.

• Torrijas de leche frita = rice pudding.

Grillade

Jardines 3. Phone: 521 2217. Fax: 531 3127. Price: Pts.8000 ($64) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In a short street between Gran Vía and Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gure-Etxea

Plaza de la Paja 12. Phone: 365 6149. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (A3).

A Basque dining room situated in a half-timbered house on a small church square just west off the Cava Baja restaurant street.

The quality furnishings fit the excellent service and the premium cooking.

• Piperrada vaxca = omelet, green peppers and ham.

• Shrimp in crab soup.

• Besugo al estilo de Beneo = whole sea bream in oil.

• Merluza al horno = baked hake.

• Leche frita = pan-fried milk pudding.

• Flan de la casa = caramel pudding.

Ingenio

Leganitos 10. Phone: 541 9133. Fax: 547 3534. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner. Price: Pts.6100 ($49) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Between Gran Vía and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Julián de Tolosa

Cava Baja 18. Phone: 365 8210. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (A3).

On the main restaurant street in the old center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mentidero de la Villa

Santo Tomé 6. Phone: 308 1285. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (C1).

Restaurant with old furnishings near Museo Arquelógico Nacional and Paseo de Recoletos. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mesón Gregorio III

Bordadores 5. Phone: 542 5956. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: Pts.8200 ($66) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Between the opera and Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mi Pueblo

Costanilla de Santiago 2. Phone: 548 2073. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner & Monday. Price: Pts.6300 ($50) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near Plaza Mayor. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ópera de Madrid

Amnistía 5. Phone: 559 5092. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.7600 ($61) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near the opera and Plaza de Orientes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Paradis Madrid

Marqués de Cubas 14. Phone: 429 7303. Fax: 429 3295. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza Canovás del Castillo and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Platerías

Plaza Santa Ana 11. Phone: 429 7048. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

On a main square in old Madrid. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Posada de la Villa

Cava Baja 9. Phone: 366 1880. Fax: 366 1880. Price: Pts.9800 ($78) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Antique restaurant in Castilian style on the main restaurant street in the old center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Rasputín

Yeseros 2. Phone: 366 3962. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: Pts.6400 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Russian restaurant near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Robata

Reina 31. Phone: 521 8528. Fax: 531 3063. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A Japanese restaurant near Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Schotis

Cava Baja 11. Phone: 365 3230. Hours: Closed Sunday evening. Price: Pts.7800 ($62) for two. All major cards. (A3).

On the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, specializing in beef steaks served on sizzling bricks.

It is long and narrow, with large paintings covering the walls, filled with local customers.

• Revuelto de trigueros = scrambled egg with green peas.

• Tomato salad.

• Merluza = hake.

• Solomillo = beef steak on brick.

• Flan de huevo = egg pudding.

• Two ice-creams with pineapple and whipped cream.

Sixto Gran Mesón

Cervantes 28. Phone: 429 2255. Fax: 523 3174. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Castilian restaurant near Plaza Canovás del Castillo. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Taberna del Alabardero

Felipe V 6. Phone: 547 2577. Fax: 547 7707. Price: Pts.10300 ($82) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Opposite the royal palace, a restaurant in 19th C. style, probably too elegant to be called a tavern. It has spawned descendants abroad.

The best atmosphere is in the innermost room, furnished with antiques. The cooking is a combination of Modern French and Basque, offering some imaginative courses.

• Tomatoes with crab filling and egg sauce.

• Paprika with wild mushroom and spinach filling and tomato sauce.

• Bacalao “Club Ranero” = salt-cod.

• Corazón de solomillo de toro = beef filet.

• Grouse with potato chips.

• Duck slices in orange sauce.

• Rice pudding.

• Melone and cream soup with raspberries.

Toja

Siete de Julio 3. Phone: 366 4664. Fax: 366 5230. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (A2).

On the northwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, a popular and lively tavern offering Galician food.

The simple and large dining place is equally popular with locals and foreigners.

• King prawns in egg sauce.

• Crab.

• Shellfish.

• Merluza gallega = grilled hake with white potatoes.

• Grilled lamb shoulder.

• Tarta Toya = Napoleon pastry.

• Strawberries with cream.

Valle

Humilladero 4. Phone: 366 9025. Hours: Closed Monday dinner & Sunday. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (A3).

A few steps from Descalzas Reales. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Viridiana

Juan de Mena 14. Phone: 523 4478. Fax: 532 4274. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Exceptional cooking at a relatively economical restaurant between Plaza de la Lealtad and Parque del Buen Retiro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Zalachaín

Álvarez de Baena 4. Phone: 561 4840. Fax: 561 4732. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday. Price: Pts.19000 ($152) for two. All major cards

We include Zalachaín even if it is not in the city center, near the corner of Paseo de la Castellana and Maria de Molina. It is the best restaurant in Madrid and one of the top three in Spain, a Basque restaurant as the other two. It combines content with form, cuisine with ambience and service. A tie for gentlemen is obligatory.

The dining area is in a few venerable rooms of hardwood, a few tables in each, loaded with exquisite crystal and porcelain. The service matches the dignified atmosphere. The cooking of Chef Benjamín Urdáin is in a Basque version of French Nouvelle Cuisine.

• Ensalada de gambas con maíz dulce al sorbete de tomates = shrimp salad with sweet maize on tomato sorbet.

• Raviolis rellenos de setas, rufas y foie gras = mushrooms and goose liver in ravioli.

• Bacalao Tellagorri = salted cod.

• Pato azulón al chartreuse verde = duck in liqueur.

• Ragoût de bogavante con alcachofas = lobster ragout with artichokes.

• Escalopes de lubina con salsa de almejas = sea bass fillets with shellfish sauce.

• Biscuit glacé con chocolate fundido = coffee ice with chocolate sauce.

• Frutas del tiempo con sorbete = season’s berries with sorbet.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Grachten
By taking a comfortable boat trip on the Amsterdam “grachten”, or canals, we are introduced to the city from the natural viewpoint, as sailing visitors saw it. It is also a suitable way to understand the layout of the city and the relative locations of places of interest. The canals are like horseshoes circling the center, crossed by streets that radiate from the center.
From the boat we get acquainted with gable house architecture and its variants. The history of the architecture, condensed in the narrow gables, blends with the beauty of numerous arched bridges over the canals and of proud trees on the banks. All this makes a whole that is best enjoyed from a canal boat.
Many companies run sightseeing boats and have departure piers all over the center. It does not matter what company we use or where we start the route which takes one hour. The boats are almost identical, the price and itinerary too.
We start our guidance at Singel, the innermost of the horseshoe canals.

Singel
(B1).
The innermost of the horseshoe canals around the old city center is Singel on this side of Amstel river and Oudeschans on the other side. This was the original ditch outside the city walls and continued to be so until the golden age of Holland and Amsterdam started around 1600.
We notice the narrowest house in town, at Singel 7. It is as narrow as the front door. Just a little farther up the canal we reach the first bend of the canal and see a quaint little jail inside the bridge we are going under. The jail could only be entered from the water.
We take a conduit canal to the next main canal, Herengracht.

Herengracht
(A2).
The name means the canal of gentlemen. In the beginning of the 17th C. it became the venerable address in Amsterdam. The richest merchants built their houses on the banks, vying with each other in elegance.
These houses still stand, proud as ever, but now inhabited by head offices of banks and concerns. The most refined houses are at the second bend of the canal, the Golden Bend, at around no. 390 where Nieuwe Spiegelstraat meets the canal. Just above the third bend, at no. 502, is the residence of the city mayor.
We take a side canal to the third main canal, Keizersgracht.

Keizersgracht
(A2).
Named after the Habsburg emperor Maximilian I who ruled Holland in the beginning of the 16th C. We notice that the houses are not as ostentatious as those at Herengracht are. This was the quarter of not-so-rich merchants and well-off industrialists. Also here the 17th C. houses are still here.
Next is the turn of the fourth horseshoe canals around the center, Prinsengracht.

Prinsengracht
(A2).
Relatively modest homes and many warehouses from the Golden Age surround this canal. Many of these storehouses have been converted into luxury flats, though the facades are still the same, as the houses are mostly certified historical monuments.
Outside this part of the city, built in the 17th C., new city walls were erected. Inside the former wall is the fifth horseshoe canal, Lijnbaansgracht, and outside the wall the last horseshoe canal, Singelgracht.
We arrive at the Singelgracht.

Singelgraacht
(A3).
Originally a real city wall ditch. Late in the 19th C. the walls were demolished and valuable space became available for traffic, gardens, squares, official buildings and museums.
It is quite romantic to repeat this canal trip during the evening and night when the beautiful bridges are lit by an enormous number of bulbs. At that time of the day the city looks like a landscape from a fairy tale.

East center
(B2).

Our second trip and first real walk leads us through the eastern part of the old center, the areas around Oudekerk, Nieuwmarkt, Waterlooplein and Rembrandtsplein. It includes the red light district of the center.
We begin at the Dam square, the starting point of all our walks in central Amsterdam.

Dam
(B2).
The central square of Amsterdam, in front of Koninklijk Paleis. It has always been the center of the city, the site of the first dam of Amstel river in the 13th C. At that time the name of the city was Amsteldamme. A harbor grew at the dam and slowly the fishing village grew into a merchant town. Its landmarks now are the Royal Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk and hotel Krasnapolsky.
Dam is lively, attracting crowds to look on or participate in happenings. There are meetings of Christian sects with preaching and singing and dancing. Also musicians, folk singers and other typical outdoor artists, performing and collecting tips. Formerly hippies slept at the national war monument in front of Krasnapolsky, but they were driven out in 1970.
Dam is also the venue of noisy traveling circuses, a traffic center for trams and taxis, and the preferable location of department stores. The Dam-Leidseplein pedestrian and shopping axis starts here. De Wildeman, a quaint little pub, is beside Krasnapolsky in the oldest house at the square, from 1632.
We start our walk in front of Krasnapolsky and walk into Warmoesstraat, the street between the hotel and Bijenkorf department store.

Warmoesstraat
(B1).
The oldest street in the city. The top class lived there in the 15th C. When it moved to Herengracht in the 17th C. this street became the main street of shops and hotels, as Damrak and Rokin had not yet been filled in. The Count of Alba lived here when he tried to subjugate the Dutch.
Two coffee shops bring alive memories from older times, Thee en Koffiehandel at no. 102 and Geels & Co. at no. 67. The same goes for the student hostel at no. 87, reminding of the primitive guest houses of earlier centuries.
In this street we also observe how the narrow gable-houses in Amsterdam actually slope forward over the street. They are built that way on purpose. At the top there is a beam and a block with a rope or a chain. Thus heavy articles can be taken up to the higher floors without bumping into the gable. It is not possible to carry cumbersome things up the steep stars inside.
We continue on the street to Oudebrugsteeg to the left. We have a short look there, as it has many small hotels, bars and shops. Then we turn back a short way along Warmoesstraat until we wee the church Oudekerk on our left.

Oudekerk
(B1).
We notice the small houses nestling in the nook of the church to save space. Also we are surprised that the half-clad and fat ladies in the red-light windows are pursuing their occupation just under the walls of the church.
It is the oldest church in the city, from about 1300. It is a Romanesque brick church. In spite of that it has large, stained-glass windows like a Gothic church. The tower is younger, from the middle of the 16th C., in a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles.
The tower is really unusual. The bottom platform is massive and four-sided, with a clock on each side. A portico of high and narrow columns rises on it. Then comes a turnip roof. The case is not closed as on top of that there is another portico and finally another golden turnip at the very top.
We continue to the canal side of the church. We are at Oudezijds Voorburgwal.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal
(B1).
This is the center of prostitution along with the next door Oudezijds Achterburgwal. In many of the houses along these two canals the harlots sit in big shop windows and wait for customers.
We turn left to the north along the bank and soon notice the narrowest street in the city, between nos. 54 and 62. It has no name and leads to red lights. A little farther on alongside the canal we arrive at Museum Amstelkring at no. 40.

Amstelkring
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40. Phone: 624 6604. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (B1).
A secret Catholic church has been in the attic here since 1663. It was in use as a church for two centuries when the Dutch Calvinism was at its most severe. It is believed that sixty such churches were in the city. This is the only one left in original condition.
It is accommodated in the top floors and the attic of three family houses. It is three stories in height. Churchgoers went through a small door from a side alley and climbed narrow and complicated stairs. We see how worn the steps are.
The church is exhibited and also the lower floors which have been converted into a museum showing the living quarters and furniture of the kind of people who had a church built in their attic.
We continue north along the canal and see Sint Nicolaaskerk in front of us. Our walk leads us on Sint Olofssteeg.

Sint Olofssteeg
(B1).
Small groups of unemployed people from former colonies of Holland are at the corner of Sint Olofssteeg and the famous street Zeedijk, some of them in a stupor. They are considered harmless, but still the police are often in the background.
We walk to the bridge and take in the view back along Oudezijds Voorburgwal and also in the other direction, along Oudezijdskolk canal with the back of Sint Nicolaaskerk in the midst of old warehouses. Then we turn away from the bridge and walk westward Zeedijk a short way to Prins Hendrikkade, where we see Beurs on or left side, behind the tourist boat harbor along Damrak.

Beurs
Damrak 243. Phone: 627 0466. (B1).
An unusual Art Nouveau palace, built by Berlage around the turn of this century, considered a scandal at that time, as it still is in the opinion of die-hards. Outside it is heavy-looking, at its best from this direction. It was built as an exchange and has now been converted into the concert hall of the state Philharmonic Orchestra and an art center, entered from Damrak.
Art Noveau was born at the end of the 19th C., when architects had grown tired of copying old styles, tired of new Greek, new Roman, new Romanesque, new Gothic. They threw away some old rules and introduced free styling. This architectural style did not last, as it was followed between the two world wars with the sober Bauhaus style and related movements in art.
From this viewpoint it is difficult to believe that a kind of a sober style with inner lightness reigns inside, where giant beams of steel frame a vast exchange court under equally huge roof windows. The older exchange that burned down was built here in 1611. It was designed to allow ships to sail into its middle under a roof. Shops were on two floors on both sides.
In the other direction, to the right, we see the Centraalstation.

Centraalstation
(B1).
Designed in the Neo-Gothic style of the 19th C. by the same Petrus Cuypers who also designed Rijksmuseum. The central railway station is built on man-made islands and rests on 8687 wooden pillars. It is out in the sea water as there really was not any other space available for it.
In front of the station is a lively, little, white wooden building, Smits Koffiehuis, housing a restaurant and the tourist information service of the city.
We walk on Prins Hendrikkade to the front of Sint Nicolaaskerk.

Sint Nicolaaskerk
(B1).
The main catholic church, about 100 years old. Nicolaas is the saint of sailors and children.
Tradition has it in Amsterdam that at the end of November each year a white-bearded man comes to the city. His name is Sinterklaas. He visits the mayor and confers with him on the behavior of the children in town to ascertain whether they deserve Christmas gifts.
The name of him had changed from Sint Nicolaas to Sinterklaas and later to Santa Claus of whom many children have heard. He originates from Amsterdam. And this is his church.
We follow the turn of Prins Hendrikkade and at once see Schreierstoren on our right.

Schreierstoren
(B1).
A tower from 1482, a part of the city walls. AT that time the harbor ended here. The story says that women and children came here to wave and cry when the sailors left over the ocean.
From the tower we see behind the water the extensive buildings of Scheepvaart Museum.

Scheepvaart Museum
Kattenburgerpein 1. Phone: 523 2222. Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 12-17. (C2).
Erected in 1656 as a naval warehouses on 18,000 pillars in the harbor. It now houses Scheepvaart Museum, the Dutch maritime museum, with uncountable ship models, maps, globes and other memorabilia from the sea. Recently a 25 minutes multimedia show has been added, detailing life on board of a life-size replica of a 17th C. merchant ship.
It is also a Dutch history museum, as the history of Holland is an history of sailing. When Amsterdam was one of the great powers of the world the Dutch managed to take over most of the shipping in Western and Northern Europe. They improved older designs of ships and invented new ones
Wherever they went they pumped new blood into industry and business. Everywhere they were well received except at the courts of kings trying to centralize power and build monopolies in trade.
If we are not going to the museum this time we turn right along the east bank of Geldserkade. The third street on the left is Binnenbantammerstraat.

Binnen Bantammerstraat
(B1).
This is the center of Chinatown. Chinese restaurant line the street. This is the district of the best possibilities to get a decent restaurant meal at the lowest price.
We turn back and walk over Geldserkade canal, then turn right along the other bank. Then we turn the next side street to the left, Waterpoortsteeg, and almost at once come to Zeedijk for the second time on this walk.

Zeedijk
(B1).
The traditional sailor street. The bars and hangouts are side by side and the streets are crowded during the evening and night. In the morning the street is on the other hand stone dead and the hash odor is almost gone.
We turn right along the street. At the end we arrive at Nieuwmarkt.

Nieuwmarkt
(B2).
Once the fish market of Amsterdam. As a relic of those times some good shops are still selling fish, meat, cheese, wine and other delicacies. There is also a small flower market on the square, not to forget a lively antiques market on Sunday.
We observe the tower of Waag in the middle of the market square.

Waag
Hours: Open 9:30-17, Sunday 13-17. (B2).
Once a gateway in the city walls. Its name was Sint Anthoniespoort, but for a long time it has been called Waag, as it housed the official weights guaranteeing transactions of goods. It is now a Jewish historical museum. On show are many holy articles and recollections from the occupation during the 2nd World War.
Waag has seven smaller towers and many doors, built in 1488. for most of its life it was the residence of artisan guilds, each guild having its own door.
Among them was the guild of surgeons, which made it possible for Rembrandt to paint here two famous pictures named Lessons in Anatomy. The painting of dr. Tulp is in Mauritshuis in Haag and the painting of dr. Deijman is in Rijksmuseum in this city.
From the square we heed south along the canal Kloveniersburgwal, first on the right bank, but on the first bridge we move over to the left bank. On the right side we see at no. 26 a narrow house, Mr. Tripp’s coachman’s house.

Kleine Trippenhuis
(B2).
The story behind the name of house no. 26 at Kloveniersburgwal is that the coachman of Mr. Tripp wished to own a house even if it was no broader than the door to his master’s house. The latter heard the wish and fulfilled it, -literally.
We turn left into Zaandstraat and arrive at Zuiderkerk.

Zuiderkerk
(B2).
Built in 1611 by the known architect Hendrick de Keyser, the first city church in Calvinist style. Its main decoration is the tower which is said to have inspired Christopher Wren’s church towers in the City of London.
We continue on Zaandstraat and pass the bridge over Oudeschans. From the bridge we have a good view to the left to Montelbaanstoren.

Montelbaanstoren
(C2).
One of the city wall towers from the 15th C. In 1606 Hendrick de Keyser added a 50 meter spire to it. Many consider this to be the most beautiful tower in Amsterdam, and in fact it is often seen on paintings and photos.
On the other side of the bridge we come on the right side to Rembrandthuis.

Rembrandthuis
Jodenbreestraat 4-6. Phone: 624 9486. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (B2).
The house with red shutters is where the master painter lived during his period of success, from 1639 to 1658, when he became bankrupt. Here he painted many of his best known works.
Now it is a Rembrandt museum. His printing machine can be seen there and over 250 of his etchings. The furniture is not his but from some of his contemporaries. The address is 4-6 Jodenbreestraat which reminds us that this street was the focus of the Jewish quarter up to the 2nd World War.
We continue on Jodenbreestraat to the square Visserplein. At the end of the street on our right side we arrive at the back end of Mozes en Aaronkerk.

Mozes en Aaronkerk
(B2).
Once a Catholic church, but now converted into a social center. This is now a haven for traveling youths and foreign workers. Soft drinks and snacks are for sale. There are exhibitions of handicraft, art and Third World problems. Specialized pop services for young people are on Sunday. Thus it is the most lively church in town.
On the other side of Visserplein we see the Portugese Synagoge.

Portugese Synagoge
Hours: Open 10-15, Sunday 10-13, closed Saturday. (C2).
The main Jewish synagogue in Amsterdam, built in 1675. At that time many Jews had fled persecution by the Catholic church in Spain and Portugal to the religious freedom and upswing in Amsterdam.
The synagogue is supposed to be in some kind of a Ionic style and is meant to be designed after the temple of Salomon in Jerusalem. Inside there are twelve massive columns under the women’s gallery. We observe the giant chandeliers carrying thousand candles that all are lit during services on Saturday.
From the square we walk Nieuwe Amstelstraat to the Amstel. When we come to the bridge we turn right to Waterlooplein in front of the recent Stadhuis building.

Waterlooplein
(B2).
The flea market has been moved back from Valkenburgerstraat to its original venue on Waterlooplein after extensive building activity in the area. The junk is getting a little better and the atmosphere is getting a little more touristy. Still it is common for sellers to ask for prices 50-100% higher than they are willing to settle for.
You can have everything here from mink coats to screws, from antiques to boat lanterns. And do not forget the cheap bicycles for a few healthy traveling days in central Amsterdam.
The new buildings around the flea market are the City Hall and the Muziektheater, specializing in ballet, tel. 625 5455.
We return to the Amstel bridge, Blauwbrug.

Blauwbrug
(B2).
An imitation of Pont Alexander III in Paris, built in 1880, decorated with ornate lampposts with globes. From the bridge we have a good river view to the white Magere Brug.
We see a strange houseboat on the canal on our side of the bridge.

Bulgar
(B2).
Owned by the artist Bulgar, one of over 2000 houseboats in the canals of Amsterdam. About half of them are without a permit, but city authorities cannot evict them because of ensuing demonstrations. Some of these boats are slums and other are luxury boats with electricity and other amenities from the city. But all of them use the canals as sewers.
We cross Blauwbrug, the blue bridge, and walk right along Amstel to Magere Brug.

Magere Brug
(B3).
The most famous and beautiful of city bridges, almost 300 years old and especially enchanting at night when it is lit with bulbs. This narrow wooden bridge is a major traffic obstacle. Its protection thus shows the respect of Amsterdammers for their past history.
From Magere Brug, the narrow bridge, we return along Amstel to Herengracht. There we turn left on the right bank. We soon arrive at Museum Willet-Holthuysen at Herengracht 605.

Museum Willet-Holthuysen
Herengracht 605. Phone: 523 1870. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-17. (B2).
Built in 1687 as the home of a rich merchant. Now it is a museum describing the life in such houses in those days. Everything is so natural that it almost seems like the family and household went out an hour ago and not almost 300 years ago.
Behind the house there is a good example of a back garden of the type that were in fashion with rich burghers of the 17th and 18th C., who had little space but tried to emulate the gardens of the French aristocracy.
We walk along Herengracht farther on to Thorbeckeplein and go to the middle of the Herengracht bridge. From there we have a view to many bridges over Herengracht and Reguliersgracht. Then we walk north Thorbeckeplein, past some nightclubs, to Rembrandtsplein.

Rembrandtsplein
(B2).
Once Rembrandsplein was the central square of pleasure. For many years it landed on the skids and was filled up with porno cinemas and nightclubs. In the last years the square and the streets around it have fought back to regain some of its heyday atmosphere. The garden in the center makes the whole place rather friendly in spite of glaring neon signs.
In the northeast corner of the square is a tiny, former police stations between Reguliersbreestraat and Halvemannsteeg, said to be the smallest in the world. There we leave this square that once was the butter and cheese market of the city.
We walk north Halvemannsteeg, cross the Amstel on a bridge, continue on Kloveniersburgwal until we reach the first bridge over the canal. There we turn right on Staalstraat to Groenburgwal.

Groenburgwal
(B2).
The bridge that we come upon here is one of the graceful old iron drawbridges that replaced the wooden drawbridges like Magere Brug. From this bridge we have a good view to Zuiderkerk.
We return and cross the iron drawbridge over Kloveniersburgwal. There we turn right along the left bank of the canal. Soon we catch sight of a narrow alley on our left and enter it. That is Oudemanhuispoort.

Oudemanhuispoort
(B2).
The long and narrow passage is really the main entrance to the traditional university of Amsterdam. On one side there are stalls of booksellers and on the other side the entrance. Here students can buy used textbooks and tourists can buy old books, maps and etchings. The passage leads between the canals Kloveniersburgwal and Oudezijds Achterburgwal.
This was once the entrance to the municipal almshouse.
Upon leaving Oudemanhuispoort we cross the bridge in front. Straight ahead we see the house of three canals. The nicer part of the exterior is on the other side. We cross the first canal, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, turn the corner around the house and cross Oudezijds Voorburgwal. We continue along Grimburgwal on our left side.

Grimburgwal
(B2).
A small and quiet canal with university buildings on the other side. A small group of old houses are on our side between the canal and the street. One of them is the tiny Upstairs pancake house.
We return to Oudezijds Voorburgwal and stroll a short distance along its left bank. We pass Damstraat and then turn left into the next alley, Pijlsteeg. We continue through that alley, past the jenever tavern Wijnand Focking, and go all the way to Dam square where we started this walk.

South center

This walk takes us through the pedestrian shopping axis of the city, between the squares Dam and Leidseplein. It continues through the quarter of cultural institutions and famous museums, such as the Rijksmuseum.
We begin at the Dam square, the starting point of all our walks in central Amsterdam. This time we first have a look at the Koninklijk Paleis.+

Koninklijk Paleis
Hours: Open 12:30-16 in summer, same hours on Wednesday in winter. (B2).
Built in 1655 as the town hall of Amsterdam. It was designed by Jacob van Campen in late Dutch Renaissance style, often called Palladian style. We can observe the exact forms of the front, so typical of the classical and mathematical thinking in architecture at that time. The front is divided into horizontal and vertical sections. The facade could do with a cleaning.
The palace is a perfect example of a period in architecture. It has similarities to other town halls of the 16th C. For example all the middle section is really one enormous, bright hall, which for a long time was the biggest in the world. Inside there are some of the best examples of Empire furniture, left there when king Louis Bonaparte had to escape in a hurry.
This solid palace, built on 13,659 pillars in a swamp, was probably the most important center of the Dutch empire for a century and a half. Then Napoleon made his brother king of Holland, and since then is has been the royal palace of Holland. The Queen does not live there as there are noisy traffic lanes on all sides. She lives in Haag and only comes here for receptions.
We leave the palace. Before we go into Kalverstraat we can take a detour have a look into Madame Tussaud vax museum in the Peek & Cloppenberg building. Otherwise we enter the crowd and let it carry us into Kalverstraat.

Kalverstraat
Hours: Shops are closed Sunday. (B2).
The biggest crowds are in this pedestrian shopping street. The throng and commotion is such that it resembles an outdoor market of the more refined type. Once it was the elegant shopping street of the city. Now it has changed into a street of shops selling jeans and junk for rather low prices. In between there are still some of the expensive fashion and diamond shops.
Usually pedestrian streets have space for sidewalk cafés. But not in this narrow artery. He who intends to walk at leisure and observe the tumult must soon quicken his steps to follow the stream.
We turn right into Sint Luciensteeg.

Sint Luciensteeg
(B2).
We catch sight of some house marking stones on a wall to the left side. Those were a kind of a coat of arms, cut in stone, playing in olden times the role of modern street numbers. Every house of standard had one like that. On our walks in the city center we can see many of them, but here we see a collection from demolished houses.
We continue through the alley and arrive at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal.

Postzegelmarkt
(B2).
This part of the street is the venue of a stamp market on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons, in Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, where the street broadens just south of the Royal Palace. Coins are also sold here.
We return via Sint Luciensteeg to Kalverstraat and then turn right. After a few meters we come at no. 92 to the entrance to Historisch Museum.

Historisch Museum
Kalverstraat 92. Phone: 523 1822. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-17, Saturday-Sunday 11-17. (B2).
An excellent museum for those who dislike museums, well arranged, showing clearly the remarkable history of the city.
We take our time to learn a little about the history of Amsterdam.

History
(B2).
The first dam on the river Amstel was built in the 13th C. where now is the Dam, the main square in front of the Royal Palace. The river Amstel and the dam gave the city its original name, Amsteldamme. A harbor grew around the dam and slowly the former fishing village grew into a merchant town. The rulers were absent counts and princes and finally the kings of Spain.
National and religious revolts against Spanish rule started in the 16th C. In 1568 the Eighty Years War started between Holland and Spain. In 1588 the Spanish Armada was destroyed and the Golden Age of Holland begun. Commerce exploded and the Dutch East India Company was established in 1602. The plan of the present canal system of central Amsterdam was drawn up in 1609.
In the 17th C. Amsterdam was a world center of learning and culture. Scholars immigrated to the freedom of the city. Famous painters such as Rembrandt had customers in the wealthy “burghers” or citizens of the city. Four wars were fought with the English for control of world trade in the latter half of the 17th C. and in the 18th C. Amsterdam gave way to London as the world center.
A renewed prosperity in Amsterdam was the result of the construction of the North Sea Canal. The prosperity has since then generally been on the increase. The Dutch are great holders of shares in transnational companies such as Philips, Shell and Unilever. In the last decades the most obvious achievement of the Dutch is an enormous technology in building dams.

Begijnhof
(B2).
We leave the past and enter modern times again for a short time in Kalverstraat, which we continue southwards, then turn right into Begijnensteeg and go through the Begijnhof entrance. We could also have come this way directly through the back door of the museum, by going through the high glass-roofed hall of guards.
There are few tourists here, as the entrances are not conspicuous. This is a silent sanctuary in the middle of the hustle and bustle of a world city. Small houses cluster together around a garden and a church. This was for centuries the home of Christian women which had not taken the oath as nuns. Such religious women villages have only survived here and in Breda.
But this is just the right and calm haven from the clamor and crowding of the surroundings. it is especially tranquil to come here on a Sunday morning when the church organ is being played. If Shangri La is somewhere it could be just here. The oldest house is no. 31, a wood house from 1478, more than 500 years old. Some house marking stones are in the corner behind the house.
We take a closer look upon the church in the center.

Engelsche Kerk
(B2).
The Protestant church is called the English Church. It is a venue for music concerts. Opposite it the Catholic church is a part of the house line, at no. 31. That is the real church of the Begijnen.
After resting in Begijnhof we leave from the south end of it through a tiled corridor which leads out to Spui square. Then we return to Kalversstraat, which passes through the eastern part of the square. Continuing to the end of that street we then turn right into Heiligeweg and in direct continuation along Koningsplein and Leidsestraat.

Leidsestraat
(A2).
A pedestrian street, full of people during all the hours of the day, and the night also for that matter. We cross Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht on bridges and are unlucky if we do not see one of the landmarks of Amsterdam, the hand-driven and colorful street-organs.
We stop at the bridge over Herengracht and observe the golden bend on the south side to its right. Those are the finest addresses in town, formerly the homes of the richest burghers and now of the most venerable banks.
We now arrive at Leidseplein. We have been following the shopping axis of Amsterdam that started at the Dam end of Kalverstraat and will continue on the far side of Leidseplein in P.C. Hooftstraat and van Baerlestraat. First we have a look around at Leidseplein.

Leidseplein
(A3).
The focus of culture and night life in Amsterdam. Many important theaters, museums, restaurants, pubs and nightclubs are around the square and in the streets leading to it. The square is dominated by the Stadsschouwurg, which houses the city theater, the state opera and ballet. There are only a few steps to the famous youth centers of Melkweg and Paradiso.
Usually there is something happening on the square itself, but on a smaller scale than on Dam. There are musicians, singers and contortionists. And a lot of sidewalk cafés. Café Americain is best known of those, with Parisian Left bank atmosphere. Some travelers stay at the American hotel and see no reason to leave the Leidseplein area.

We take a look at the Stadsschouwburg.
Stadsschouwburg
Leidseplein 26. Phone: 624 2311. (A3).
The city theater building dominates Leidseplein square. It is an ornate palace in a Neo-Renaissance Historical style
Formerly it also housed the state opera and the state ballet. The Netherlands opera has got its own venue at the Muziektheater in the new complex on Waterlooplein. Some ballet performances are in the new location and some are still here.
We cross Singelgracht and turn left. On that corner we meet another landmark of Amsterdam, a herring stall, where people stand around and eat cured herring, a more civilized sight than hot-dog eaters. We walk through the canal garden and along Stadhouderskade until we come to Hobbemastraat to the right. From it we take a right turn into Hooftstraat.

Hooftstraat
(A3).
The elegant part of the shopping axis we have been following. Here are the fashion shops and specialty sops with expensive goods.
On the corner of this street and Constantijn Huygenstraat we turn right and go into Vondelpark

Vondelpark
(A3).
A lively green park, much used by joggers, cyclists and drug users.
We return the same way on Huygenstraat and continue on Van Baerlestraat all the way to Concertgebouw, which is on the right side of the street.

Concertgebouw
Van Baerlestraat 98. Phone: 671 8345. (A3).
The famous symphony orchestra with this same name has its own concert hall opposite Museumplein in the museum district. The recently refurbished building seats 2200 people and has unusually good acoustics. It has a classic repertoire and a constant stream of outside conductors, musicians and orchestras.
Beyond Museumplein we see the imposing state museum of art, Rijksmuseum, and on the left the city museum of art, Stedelijk Museum, and Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh.
The Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra plays in the Beurs van Berlage.
We go back a few steps on Van Baerlestraat, cross the street and enter the new wing of Stedelijk Museum.

Stedelijk Museum
Paulus Potterstraat 13. Phone: 573 2911. Hours: Open 11-17. (A3).
The museum for 20th C. painting. On the walls are works by Cézanne, Picasso, Renoir, Monet and Manet, also Cagall, Malevich, Kandinsky and Mondrian, even by the younger Cobra group. We also see the newer styles, pop art, conceptual art and whatever they are called now.
The museum has earned respect by constantly buying new works and arranging almost 30 special exhibitions each year.
On leaving the museum we turn right and then right again into Paulus Potterstraat and pass by the older wing of the museum. Next we come to Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh on the same side of the street.

Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh
Paulus Potterstraat 7. Phone: 570 5200. Hours: Open 10-17. (A3).
The building is from 1973, quite a noteworthy age in this city. It houses one of the most interesting art museums in the world. Nowhere else is there as complete a collection of the paintings of one world famous artist.
Here 200 paintings by van Gogh are exhibited in correct historical order. You can follow his career month after month and in his increasing madness at the end, when he committed suicide at the age of 37 years in 1890. There are also 500 of his sketches.
Most of his other paintings are also in Holland, not far from Amsterdam, in the Kröller-Müller Museum in Hoge Veluwe. Thus Holland has a near monopoly on van Gogh, envied by art lovers elsewhere. The reason behind the concentration is that no one wanted to buy Gogh’s paintings when he was working in France. Later his relatives arranged for the junk to be sent home to Holland.
We continue on Paulus Potterstraat to Rijksmuseum. At the end of the street we enter the diamond shop of Coster on the left side.

Coster
(A3).
Many good diamond cutters and merchants are in town, showing diamond cutting to tourist groups, and Coster is one of the best. It does not cost anything to watch the old specialist practice this precise art with suitable machinery. But if you want to buy, just name the amount. No matter how high, Coster has something for you.
We now go to the Rijksmuseum. The heavy palace sits on Museumsstraat which passes through its middle. We go to the front side where the entrance is.

Rijksmuseum
Stadhouderskade 42. Phone: 422 0471. Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 13-17. (A3).
The museum is not really on par with Louvre, Uffizi or Prado, but does come a long way to compare. Its jewel is of course Rembrandt. Then come other Dutch painters such as Frans Hals and Vermeer. The great Dutch painters lived in the 17th C, the golden age of Holland, when authorities and individuals had enough money to pay artists well. Art followed profits.
It is difficult to guide you through the museum. It would take a whole day to see it all. To help those that do not have the time or the inclination, the most famous paintings are exhibited in the central galleries on the left side.
We take a special look at the most famous painting by Rembrandt.

Rembrandt
The focal point of the museum is the giant painting by Rembrandt of the guard patrol of Frans Banning cock and Willem van Ruytenburgh, usually called the Night Watch. Two guards keep an eye on the painting, which really shows a Day Watch, as was discovered when it was cleaned shortly after World War II.
On leaving the museum we walk straight across Singelgracht and Weteringschans, and then continue along Lijnbaansgracht.

Nieuwe Spiegelstraat
(A3).
We are in the district of antique dealers. They are around Spiegelgracht, this part of Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, and most concentrated in Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, which is a direct continuation of Spiegelgracht. On the short block between Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht there is a solitary wine merchant in the middle of more than two dozens of antique shops.
This concentration is convenient for antiques collectors. They can find here specialists in the most important branches of antiques. And on sale are not only Dutch antiques but also from other countries. French and British objects are prominent in many shops.
When we come to Keizersgracht we turn right along the canal and pass the traffic street Vijzelstraat to arrive at Museum Van Loon at Keizersgracht 672.

Museum Van Loon
Keizersgrach 672. Phone: 624 5255. Hours: Open Sunday 13-17, Monday 10-17. (B3).
A family museum of the Van Loons who have often been prominent in public Amsterdam life. A pretty little garden is behind the house.
We have to make a detour over the bridge to get to Museum Fodor which is opposite Museum van Loon, at Keizersgracht 672.

Museum Fodor
(B3).
The avant-garde museum of art in Amsterdam. It exhibits the works of those who are not yet famous enough to get their works into Stedlijk Museum. Art lovers go here to acquainted with new waves in painting.
The division of work between three great museums is that Fodor exhibits today’s art, Stedelijk 20th C. art, and Rijksmuseum the art of earlier centuries.
We return to Viezelstraat, an ugly street with an ugly bank. On the bridge over Herengracht we stop for a moment to look at the golden bend from a different angle this time. Then we continue to Bloemenmarkt on the Singel.

Bloemenmarkt
(B2).
Holland being a country of flowers, here is the world famous flower market floating on Singel canal, from Muntplein to Leidsestraat. For two centuries boats have been moored at the bank, full of the brilliant colors of flowers. Even during high winter flowers are sold here outdoors.
We go back to Viezelstraat and turn left into Muntplein.

Munttoren
(B2).
The square is named after the Munttoren. That tower is from the old city walls. Its name was Reguliers, but it got a new name, when the city minted its own coins in the tower for a while. In the 17th C. it partly burned down and got a new upper half.
The square itself is the main car traffic square in the city.
We continue into Rokin avenue.

Rokin
(B2).
Beyond Rokin we see the palace of Europe with restaurant Excelsior and its chefs working in the cellar almost underwater. On our side of the street there are many diamond jewelers.
We finally arrive by Rokin into the square Dam where we started this walk.

West center

This short walk leads us through the northwestern part of the city center, ending at Anne Frank Huis and Westerkerk.
We again start at Dam. First we take a closer look at Nieuwe Kerk, beside the royal palace.

Nieuwe Kerk
Hours: Open 12-16, Sunday 13-17. (B1).
In spite of its name it is one of the oldest churches in Amsterdam, erected in the 15th C. It is maybe best known for being without a tower. A slender spire was put on the crossing in the 19th C. In the middle of the 17th C. the city fathers had debated whether to build a church tower or a town hall. The latter was decided.
It is actually the Westminster Abbey of Holland, the crowning church of the royal dynasty. There three queens have been crowned in succession, Wilhelmine in 1898, her daughter Juliana in 1948 and granddaughter Beatrix in 1980. The dynasty of Oranje-Nassau has thus been dominated by women for a century. But now Beatrix has reared a crown prince to take over in due time.
Some amusing alleys are behind the church. Gravenstraat is next to it.

Gravenstraat
(B1).
The street is typical of the alleys that criss-cross the district north off Nieuwe Kerk.
At no. 28 is a quaint little cheese shop, Crignon, that cannot take much more than one customer inside at a time, but in spite of that offers over 100 different cheeses from many countries. A cheese restaurant is behind the shop. The old jenever tasting house, Drie Fleschjes, is in the same street. So is the brown pub, Pilserij, and hotel Classic.
We continue on Gravenstraat until we arrive at Nieuwendijk where we turn left.

Nieuwendijk
(B1).
This narrow pedestrian street is a kind of a continuation of Kalverstraat on the north side of Dam, a shopping street, crossed by many passages and alleys. The standards and prices are lower than in Kalverstraat.
As we continue northwards the number of amusement places increases and that of shops decreases. The street makes a sharp turn to the west and ends at Singel.
We take a short detour south along the left bank of Singel both to have a look at the narrowest house in town, at no. 7, and to inspect Ronde Luterse Kerk.

Ronde Luterse Kerk
(B1).
Two million bricks were used to erect this domed Baroque church from 1671. Copper for the roof came from Charles XI, king of Sweden and supporter of Lutheran causes. It has a height of 150 meters. It was deconsecrated and turned into a warehouse until the Renaissance hotel resurrected it as a congress venue.
On our way back we take a better look at Singel no. 7.

Singel 7
(B1).
The narrowest house in Amsterdam, having the width of the front door. We also cross Singel where it meets Nieuwendijk and make a detour into Harlemmerstraat where the narrowest restaurant in the world is at no. 43. It is Groene Lanterne in 17th C. style with waitresses in national costumes.
We return the same way, turn right into Singel and then again right along Brouwersgracht.

Herenmarkt
(B1).
Here at Brouwersgracht the well-known horseshoe canals begin, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht. Here the canal atmosphere is at its best. We take notice of an unusually well renovated warehouse at no. 118.
Herenmarkt is the central magnet of Brouwersgracht. It is a comfortable square, with old people sitting and children playing.
When we come to Prinsengracht we turn left along its right bank and visit Noorderkerk and the market area around it.

Noorderkerk
(A1).
Built in 1623 and has a ground plan of a Greek crucifix.
We next browse in the Noordermarkt.

Noordermarkt
(A1).
Recently the market around Noorderkerk has taken up real competition with the traditional flea market on Waterlooplein. It now extends far into Westerstraat and there becomes a clothes market. But it is open only on Monday.
The importance of this market increased as the quarter around, Jordaan, came into fashion. Many middle-aged hippies from the students’ protests of 1968 have now become well-off burghers who can afford to convert old warehouses into modern homes.
The choice and variety is greater here than it is on Waterlooplein, both at the junk end and at the adequate end of the spectrum. On Saturday this is the venue of an amusing bird-market.
We walk south along Prinsengracht and have a glimpse into the side streets to the right. We are in the district Jordaan.

Jordaan
(A1).
Originally this was a slum of French Huguenots who came here as fugitives. Now it has been restored by middle-aged former hippies who have designed and built expensive homes in old warehouses.
We turn right into Egelantiersgracht, a friendly canal which is an example of how well the restoration of Jordaan has succeeded. Of its 8000 houses 800 have been put under official protection.
We return on the other bank of Egelantiersgracht and continue along Prinsengracht which we cross at the next bridge. Then we continue on the left bank and soon arrive at Anne Frank Huis at 263 Prinsengracht.

Anne Frank Huis
263 Prinsengracht. Phone: 626 4533. Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9-17, Sunday 10-17. (A1).
Anne Frank lived here with seven other Jews in hiding from 1942 until they were betrayed into the hands of the Nazis in August 1944. Here she wrote the diary which has become famous the world over. We see here the bookcase which was at the same time the door to the fugitives’ hiding place.
We also see the magazine clippings that the girl glued to the wall over her bed. There is a picture of Diana Durbin and other of Princess Margaret. By chance all this was found and among other things her diary.
Readers of four million copies of the diary of Anne Frank can here feel the book in a more dramatic way. Most of the editions are on exhibition here. This is certainly one of the most touching museums in the city.
Just a little farther to south along Prinsengracht we come to Westerkerk.

Westerkerk
(A1).
Erected in 1631 by father and son, Hendrick and Pieter de Keyser, in clean forms and mathematical proportions. It has two short transepts and a quadrangular tower. It is a typical Calvinist church with no chapels in the aisles and with a short chancel in order to shorten the distance between the preacher and the congregation.
The tower is the highest one in Amsterdam, 85 meters, and offers a striking view in good weather for energetic people who are willing to walk the stairs. In the tower there is a bell combination by Francois Hemony who has arranged such combinations in other towers of Amsterdam. These bells play cheerful tunes which the traveler hears in his ears a long time after leaving.
The French philosopher Descartes lived for a while on the square in front of the church, at no. 6. There he wrote in a letter: “In what country would there be found such perfect freedom?” By these words he pointed out that Holland with Amsterdam at the helm has for centuries been a sanctuary for fugitives and others who did not feel that they fit in at home.
From here we can cross Prinsengracht again and learn to know the Jordaan quarter better. A special guidance is not necessary for such an exploration. But if you have got enough of footwork for the time being, we can go via Raadhuisstraat to the east until we reach the former town hall and present royal palace at Dam, from where we started this walk.

1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson

Allard

41 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 75005. Phone: 4326 4823. Fax: 4633 0402. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.640 ($125) for two. All major cards. (E5).

On the Left bank, near the intersection of the boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain, in a corner house from the 17th Century, offering old-fashioned appointments and old-fashioned bourgeois cooking, far removed from Nouvelle Cuisine. Fernande Allard takes care of the kitchen, offering the same as ever, loaded plates of hearty food for hungry businessmen.

The guests sit tight, bistro-style, at small tables, which formerly bared the marble but are now covered with white cloth. The sawdust has disappeared from the floor, but the random pictures are still hanging on the walls. The waiters wear long, black aprons.

• Fromage de tête = pickled calf head.

• Jambon persillé = ham.

• Veau à la Berrichonne = veal with soft boiled egg, the Tuesday speciality.

• Coq au vin = traditional chicken in red wine.

• Gâteau de framboises = raspberry cake.

• Charlotte au chocolat = chocolate pudding.

Ambassade d‘Auvergne

22 Rue du Grenier-Saint-Lazare, 75003. Phone: 4272 3122. Fax: 4278 8547. Price: FFr.440 ($86) for two. All major cards. (F4).

The best known country cooking in Paris is quite near the Pompidou museum in Palais Beaubourg. The chef, Joseph Petrucci, is in fact an Italian, but his wife, Hélene Petrucci is a daughter of the Auvergne mountains in southern France and the cooking derives from there. The pricing is reasonable.

Madame Petrucci receives guests cordially. It is desirable to get a table on the ground floor, decorated in rustic style. There are beams of oak and a heavy table for ten in the middle of the dining room.

• Soupe au choux et au roquefort = Auvergne cabbage soup with cheese flavor.

• Poélé d’escargots à la confiture d’oignons = snails in fruit and onion jam.

• Saucisse d’Auvergne aux lentilles de puy = meat with lentils.

• Saucisse aligot = sausage with extremely elastic potato and cheese puré.

• Sorbet aux mures = mulberry sorbet.

• Coupetade = prune pudding.

Appart

9 rue du Colisée, 75008. Phone: 5375 1634. Fax: 5376 1539. Price: FFr.400 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B3).

A trendy and lively rendez-vous with generous helpings of traditional food and reasonable prices for the beautiful people near Rond Point of Champs-Élysées, on the north side of the street.

The interior is bourgeois and romantic, heavily decorated with bookcases, platters, paintings, wine racks, potted plants, candles and coffee boxes. The napkins are of paper and the service is by beautiful girls. Usually the place is full of convival young people seing others and showing themselves off.

• Rémoulade de pieds de cochon et fondue de poireaux au balsamique = pig’s trotters with leeks.

• Petits piments farcis á la morue sur coulis de poivron doux = small peppers filled with cod and sweet pepper juice.

• Cour de filet á la moutarde violette, pomme dauphin = beef fillet with violet mustard.

• Côtes d’agneau aux saveurs orientales, jus d’agneau á la menthe fraîche = roasted lamb ribs with oriental spices.

• Tarte aux pommes chaude “quatre coins” = warm apple pie.

• Tarte tiéde au chocolat, glace au pain d’épices = tepid chocolate cake.

Assignat

7 rue Guénégaud, 75006. Phone: 4354 8768. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday. Price: FFr.160 ($31) for two. No cards. (E4).

A classic restaurant of very low prices a few steps from Pont Neuf. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Auberge des Deux Signes

46 rue Galande, 75005. Phone: 4325 4656. Fax: 4633 2049. Hours: Closed Saturdauy lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.900 ($176) for two. All major cards. (E5).

Marvelously restored medieval abbey with romantic atmosphere across the bridge from Notre Dame to the left bank, between Rue Saint-Jacques and Rue Dante.

There are heavy oak beams in the ceiling, Gothic vaults, bare stone walls, and windows facing Notre Dame. The fireplace is blazing and the ancient well is functioning. There are flowers and white linen on the tables and antique-fashioned carved chairs on the floor.

• Assiette de saumon fumé Norvégien = smoked Norwegian salmon.

• Six escargots géants de Bourgogne = six large Bourgogne snails.

• Magret de mulord bolle fruitiére

• Médaillon de capelin en crépine aux échalotes confites = capelin in a crépe of glazed shallots.

• Fondant d’ananas á la crème Chiboust sauce canelle = pineapple icing with cinnamon sauce.

• Sabayon champagne aux fruits frais = champagne zabaglione with fresh fruit.

Babylone

13 rue de Babylone, 75007. Phone: 4548 7213. Hours: Closed dinner. Price: FFr.220 ($43) for two. No cards. (D5).

An inexpensive west bank restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Baptiste

11 Rue des Boulangers, 75005. Phone: 4325 5724. Fax: 4337 8269. Price: FFr.170 ($33) for two. All major cards. (F6).

Near the ruins of the Roman arena in the Latin quarter, a cozy and inexpensive tavern in a quiet street.

Bourdonnais

113 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, 75007. Phone: 4705 4796. Fax: 4551 0929. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.780 ($153) for two. All major cards. (B5).

Situated near the corner of Avenue de la Bourdonnais and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, between Tour Eiffel and Invalides. The restaurant also answers to the name of Cantine des Gourmets. Madame Micheline Coat directs the service and has got a master chef from the Negresco in Nice, Régis Mahé, who has elevated the culinary status.

This is a graceful and a snug restaurant, pink and white, seating 70, partitioned into three sections by glass shelves with porcelain and glass figures. The flower arrangements are in the house colors. Madame carries the heaviest decorations, five necklaces, two bracelets and golden glasses.

• Crème de poireaux et pommes de terre glacée = cold chives soup.

• Grillade de filets de rouget en vinaigrette = grilled red mullet.

• Suprème de saumon grillé au beurre de Noilly = lightly poached salmon.

• Rizotto et filets d’agneau au confit de poivrons doux = lightly braised lamb.

• Gratin de framboises sauce chocolat = raspberry puré with chocolate sauce.

• Nougat glacé coulis de framboises, amandes, pruneau, oranges confites = ice-cream with sugared fruits.

Cartes Postales

7 rue Gomboust, 75001. Phone: 4261 0293. Fax: 4261 0293. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (D3).

A small and airy restaurant, almost Japanese in its spartan style, a few steps from Avenue de l’Opera, between the Garnier Opera and the Louvre. A Japanese chef cooks in the classic French manner, with the modern addition of exact timings in cooking.

The cool interior, somewhat enlived by fresh flowers, has white linen and white walls with a large window on one side and two rows of postcards on the other.

• Foie gras de canard Landais cuit en terrine = duck liver terrine.

• Fricassée des langoustines aux champignons de saison = prawn fricassée with mushrooms of the season.

• Croustillant de homard et son coulis = lobster in crust with own juices.

• Mille feuille de duode foie gras aux epices = spiced goose liver in pastry layers.

• Croustade de frangipane = pastry cream.

• Le gateau au chocolat et sa créme anglaise = chocolate cake with eggs-and-breadcrumb créme.

Chat Grippé

87 rue d’Assas. Phone: 4354 7000. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Monday. Price: FFr.750 ($147) for two. All major cards. (E6).

A restaurant of large mirrors and excellent food by Michel Galichon, near Jardin du Luxembourg just south of Rue Michelet.

The gray and red walls are decorated with outsize mirrors and ugly pictures of cats, the tables with pink linen. The carved and high chairs are beautiful and comfortable. Service is so-so.

• Feuilles de morue faiche en carpaccio, pain, tomate et olive = slices of marinated cod with bread, tomato and olives.

• Cêpes de poieraux vinaigrette á l’huile de truffe = boletus mushrooms with leeks and vinegar of oil and truffes.

• Saumon rôti aux courgettes = roasted salmon with zucchini and stockfish.

• Jarret de veau en osso bucco = boiled shank of veal.

• Suprême de pintade fermiére aux trompettes de la mort = guinea hen.

• Soufflé chaud au Grand-Marnier, sorbet chocolat noir = warm Grand Marnier soufflé and black chocolate sorbet.

• Mousseline de citron craquante, chips d’orange = lemon mousse.

Chez Clément

17 boulevard des Capucines, 75002. Phone: 4742 0025. Fax: 4242 9402. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (D3).

An inexpensive restaurant near Place de la Opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Corbeille

154 rue Montmartre, 75002. Phone: 4026 3087. Fax: 4026 5097. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (E3).

A tiny and cozy first floor restaurant with old-fashioned decor and excellent cooking by Franck Deshayes near the Boulevard Montmartre end of the main street between the boulevards and Les Halles.

A large table for a group is downstairs and a few tables upstairs, where people sit on sofas in nooks. Large and illuminated flower frescis are on the walls. Marc Pruniéres takes care of the excellent service.

• Fricassée de champignons sauvages = browned pieces of wild mushrooms.

• Foie gras de canard des Landes = duck liver from Landes.

• Rémoulade de céleri-rave et coquilles Saint-Jacques marinées = remoulade of celery root and marinated scallops.

• Ravioles de homard a l’estragon = lobster ravioli with tarragon sauce.

• Daurade royale rôtie á la lie de vino = sea bream roasted in wine.

• Tiramisu á la liqueur d’armagnac = coffee flavored cheesecake in armagnac.

• Croustillant aux poires carmélisées á la cardamon = caramelized crust of pears flavored with ginger.

Delmonico

39 avenue de l’Opera, 75002. Phone: 4261 4426. Fax: 4261 4773. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.560 ($110) for two. All major cards. (D3).

A stalwart of traditional French cuisine and tradtional restaurant design on the main avenue between the Garnier Opera and Palais Royal, on the west side of the avenue just south of Rue d’Antin. Chef Alain Soltys and the FFr. 168 menu are the main attraction.

The dining room is open and refined, with a large flower decoration in the middle, comfortable chairs and sofas in red color, a marble wall, mirrors and modern lights in the ceiling, white linen and good service.

• Terine de caneton aux figues = duckling terrine with figs.

• Marinade de thon a l’aneth et citron vert = marinated tuna with dill and lime.

• Matelote de cabillaud riz basmati = stewed codfish with brown rice.

• Côte de porc confite á la tomate et á l’estragon = marintated pork cutlet with tomato and tarragon.

v
• Chaud-froid de poires glace safran = pear gelatine with saffron ice.

• Quadrille á l’ananas sauce chocolat blanc = pinapple cake with white chocolate sauce.

Divellec

107 Rue de l’Université, 75007. Phone: 4551 9196. Fax: 4551 3175. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.1100 ($216) for two. All major cards. (C4).

An airy and an appealing culinary temple directly on the Esplanade. Jean le Divellec is in charge, having moved here from Pacha in Rochelle at the Biskay bay. He buys for the kitchen and supervises it, but in contrast to other renowned chefs in the city he does not stay at the herd. Instead he patrols the dining room to take care of the guests.

There are big windows out to Esplanade. As is usual in this class of prices and quality the decorations are aesthetic. Mirrors abound, tables are well spaced and the table service is tasteful. Service is particularly exact, under the critical eyes of the owner. There is an economical lunch menu of the day at FFr. 170.

• Courtbouillon de raie, merlan, rouget et coquilles Saint-Jacques = clear soup of ray, whiting, red mullet and scallops.

• Cassoulette d’huîtres à la laitue de mer = four oysters on sea-weed.

• Escalope de saumon au Saint-Émilion = lightly poached salmon in red wine sauce.

• Rouget poêlée en laitue = red mullet on lettuce.

• Poires au laurier = raspberries and pears on laurels.

Dodin Bouffant

25 Rue Fréderic-Sauton, 75005. Phone: 4325 2514. Fax: 4329 5261. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.470 ($92) for two. All major cards. (F5).

The best seafood restaurant is on the Left bank, near the river bank opposite Notre-Dame, only 250 meters away. World famous chef Jacques Manière is in charge in the kitchen. This is one of the gastronomic temples of Paris.

It is a big and noisy brassiere, remarkably inexpensive. Its reasonableness shows both in food and wine prices. It is also suitable for night-owls as dinner can be ordered after midnight. On the other hand furnishings and decorations are not exciting.

• Plateau de fruits de mer = A whole bowl of shellfish and crabs.

• Huîtres de l’Isle de Ré, no. 1 = oysters.

• Perdrix rotie embeurrade chous, rosé = partridge with cabbage.

• Tête de veau au romarin = pickled calf head.

• Desserts from the trolley.

Drouant

18 rue Gaillon, 75002. Phone: 4265 1516. Fax: 4924 0215. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) for two. All major cards. (D3).

An exquisite restaurant dominated by a marble staircase, near the Garnier Opera, on the eastern side of the street, a few steps from Rue Saint-Augustin.

Large paintings, open spaces, creamy yellow linen and excellent service for business diners. The prices in the adjoining café are much lower.

• Bisque de homard parfumée á la badiane = lobster bisque perfumed with badian anise, served with bread cubes.

• Foie gras de canard cuit au torchon aux baies de poivre et sel de Guérande = duck liver paté with pepper and salt.

• Canard sauvage rôti aux figues = roasted wild duck with figs.

• Carré d’agneau de Pavillac rôti á la sarriette = roasted ribs of Pavillac lamb.

• Moëlleux au chocolat, crème au café de Colombie = coffee cream chocolate cake.

• Tarte fine aux figues, glace au miel d’acacia = fig cake glaced with acacia honey.

Duquesnoy

6 avenue Bosquet, 75007. Phone: 4705 9678. Fax: 4418 9057. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1050 ($206) for two. All major cards. (B4).

The refined, small luxury restaurant of chef-owner Jean-Paul Duquesnoy is near the Alma bridge on the Seine, on the avenue connecting it with École Militaire, just north of Rue de l’Université.

The walls are bright and airy above the quality wainscoting, decorated with paintings. The antique wicket chairs at the well-spaced tables with white linen are comfortable. Francoise Duquesnoy controls the professional waiters.

• Petite marmite de poulette et ses abats parfumée au madére Sercial, a l’æuf coulant = earthenware pot of chicken with giblets in madeira sauce.

• Duo de morue rôtie et brandade parfumée charlottes de Moirmoutier et jus de veaux = roasted cod and stockfish.

• Chartreuse de pigeonneau au foie gras, sauce aux truffes = squab and cabbage with goose liver and truffle sauce.

• Millefeuille léger, poire caramélisée, sauce e créme glacée aux noix = caramelized flaky pastry with glazed walnut sauce.

• Fruits exotiques carmélisés au sucre Muscovado, avarin aux raisins de Malaga, sabayon au rhum = caramelized exotic fruit in sugar, raisin sponge cake and rum zabaglione.

Fermette Marbeuf 1900

5 Rue Marbeauf, 75008. Phone: 4723 3131. Fax: 4070 0211. Price: FFr.540 ($106) for two. All major cards. (B3).

A ravishing and a reasonably priced brassiere-bistro in the expensive fashion district just south of Champs-Élysées. It was made famous by chef Jean Laurent, but now Gilbert Isaac reigns in the kitchen.

It is decorated in a turn-of-the-century Belle Epoque style with painted tiles, lots of mirrors and glass. An elaborate system of mirrors is in the ceiling. an original glass decoration from the turn of the century is over the bar in the middle. All this combines to make the place unusually thrilling and elegant. Many noisy French jet-setters frequent it at lunch.

• Six huitres no. 3 = oysters.

• Salade vaudoise au foie gras d’oie = goose liver salad.

• Coeur de filet grillé = grilled beef filet.

• Agneau de lait rôti = roasted milk lamb.

• Assortiment des fromages = three cheeses.

• Fraises de bois de Malaga = forest strawberries from Malaga.

Gourmet de l’Isle

4 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. Phone: 4326 7927. Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (F5).

An inexpensive restaurant centrally located on the Saint-Louis island. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Grand Louvre

Piramide du Louvre, 75001. Phone: 4020 5341. Fax: 4286 0463. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E4).

The glass pyramid of Louvre is a magnificient entrance to this large quality restaurant with friendly service and agreeable cuisine in traditional style, optically impressive.

The interior archtecture is modern and not exactly romantic, but the service is friendly. Sofas line walls and columns, the chairs are comfortable and the linen is white. The menu is the same at lunch and dinner.

• Tartare de champignons de Paris aux volailles = fresh mushrooms tartare in creamed poultry sauce.

• Trois foies gras de canard faqon André Daguin = three duck livers in the Daguin style.

• Filet de sandré en écailles de pomme de terre = pike perch fillet with potato scales.

• Escalope de foie gras frais de canard = pan-fried duck liver, chef’s style.

• Croustade gersoise aux myrtilles = traditional Gascony blueberry pie tart.

• Piramide au chocolat sur créme anglaise = chocolate pyramid on vanilla sauce.

• Créme brûlée = caramelised custard with fresh lavender.

Grand Véfour

17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001. Phone: 4296 5627. Fax: 4286 8071. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.1280 ($251) for two. All major cards. (E3).

Possibly the most beautiful restaurant in the world is in the Palais Royal buildings around the Palais Royal garden. The restaurant is one of the institutions of France, under strict protection of conservation authorities. The decorations have been restored in the original style. Good service in the classic manner is stressed here. There is good value in a set lunch menu.

The main dining room, seating about 50, is the main attraction, every inch decorated almost two centuries ago in the Directory style. It has mirrors on golden walls and delicate pictures in the ceiling, on the walls and in the carpet. Everything is delicate, from the black Directory chairs to the painted mirrors. A photo describes better this glittering apparition.

• Petits violets aux copeaux de foie gras = goose liver.

• Feuilleté de rouget à la crème de tomate = red mullet in tomato cream.

• Magret de barbarie aux fruits = duck breast with fruits.

• Poulet de Bresse au safran = roast chicken from Bresse.

• Cheeses and raspberries from the trolley.

Jacques Cagna

14 Rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006. Phone: 4326 4939. Fax: 4354 5448. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1040 ($204) for two. All major cards. (E5).

In the oldest part of the 6th district, near the river and almost alongside the charming Relais Christine hotel. Young master-chef Jacques Cagna settled here on the first floor of a 17th Century house. It is difficult to get a dinner table at this culinary temple but sometimes the place is not full at lunch, in spite of a terrific lunch menu at the reasonable price of FFr. 175.

The dining room is comfortable, seats about 70, but seems much smaller. It is dominated by beams fortified by irons, giving an atmosphere of solidity. Walls and chairs are salmon pink. Old paintings grace the walls. The cutlery is fine. Service is quiet and efficient. Cagna makes the rounds when he has the time. He is an adherent of Nouvelle Cuisine.

• Petits filets de daurade crus marinés à la tomate et à la ciboulette = transparently white bream, marinated in lemon juice, with tomato and leeks.

• Terrine de foies de volailles aux pistaches, petits oignons au coriandre = bird liver paté with nuts and onions.

• Escalope de saumon au coulis de homard à l’estragon, zeste de citron et d’orange = poached salmon in lobster sauce with very thin peel flakes.

• Filet de barbue à la mousse de homard sauce corail = brill in lobster mousse and coral sauce.

• Glacé au caramel et aux noix = nut-and-caramel ice cream.

• Cheese from the trolley.

Jules Verne

Tour Eiffel, 2nd floor, 75007. Phone: 4555 6144. Fax: 4705 2941. Price: FFr.1120 ($220) for two. All major cards. (B4).

One of the superior gourmet temples in Paris and the quaintest one is on the second of the three floors of the Eiffel Tower, offering a devastating view in all direction. The southern foot of the Eiffel tower is reserved for the entrance to Jules Verne. A doorman received us downstairs before we entered the elevator. Upstairs we start at the bar for the view from that direction.

Designed by famous Slavik, the restaurant resembles a dining room of a 21st Century spaceship or maybe the nuclear submarine of captain Nemo in Jules Verne’s story. All furnishings are in black and silver. In combination this has a consistent atmosphere of an unreal world of dreams. Extremely thin office lamps decorate the tables. Customers sit in comfortable swivel chairs.

• Baignade de melon et fraises des bois au Banyuls = Pink melons with wild strawberries.

• Salade de sole à la vinaigrette de framboises et citron vert = sole on chicory and lettuce with cucumber strings and parsley in vinegar.

• Panache de veau aigrefeuille = a mixture of ris de veau, rognons and veal with potato strings.

• Pièce de boeuf poêlée aux échalotes et au persil = rare beef with string beans and carrot strings.

• Pâte de truffes et crême café, sauce vanille = chocolate tart.

• Miroir aux framboises, crême anglaise = raspberry tart.

• Coulommiere and Münster from the cheese trolley.

Lescure

7 rue de Mondovi, 75001. Phone: 4260 1891. Hours: Closed Saturday dinner & Sunday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (D3).

An inexpensive restaurant a few steps from Place de la Concorde. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Lucas Carton

9 place de la Madeleine, 75008. Phone: 4265 2290. Fax: 4265 0623. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1400 ($275) for two. All major cards. (D3).

One of the top restaurants of the world is on the west side of the Madeleine square, finally a suitable temple for the culinary genius of Alain Senderens, formerly of Archestrate on the left bank. He specializes in combining food and wine for a perfect fit. The restaurant combines everything, luxury, ambience and gastronomy, truly a major ambassade for French nouvelle cuisine.

Elegant and charming Éventhia Senderens greets visitors warmly. The decor is aristocratic art noveau, with lots of mirrors and polished wood, cozy nooks and comfortable chairs. This is certainly the place for you to feel finally arrived in the world. Service is extremely attentive without being obtrusive. Every course is offered with a glass of a fitting wine.

• Foie gras de canard au chou, á la vapeur, avec Juranqon moëlleux 1985 = steamed duck paté on cabbage.

• Asperges et belons au beaurre de vodka aux herbes et caviar, avec Wodka Zubrowka = asparagus and belon oysters in vodka butter with herbs and caviar.

• Filets de rouget poêlés aux olives, citron et câpers, avec Château de Beaucastel 1991 = pan-fried fillets of red mullet, with olives, lemon and capers.

• Homard á la vanille, avec Meursault 1988 = lobster in vanilla.

• Canard Apicius rôti au miel et aux épices, avec Banyuls 1978 = roasted duck in honey and spices.

• Pigeon aux navets caramélisés á la cannelle, avec Cahors 1992 = squab on turnips caramelized in cinnamon.

• Le vrai mille-feuille á la vanille, avec Muscat de Rivesaltes 1993 = Napoleon vanilla cake.

• Gâteau au chocolat coulant á la crème d’amandes améres, avec Vin d’Arbois = chocolate cake with almonds.

Main à la Pâte

35 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001. Phone: 4508 8573. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E4).

The best Italian restaurant in Paris is conveniently situated at Rue Saint-Honoré just near Forum des Halles. This place is not in the French tradition, as here it is the woman that cooks and the husband that serves, Ida and Livio Bassano. They offer an outstanding lunch menu of three courses and wine for only FFr. 75 per person.

Go upstairs into the flower room on the first floor. Most of the flowers may be of plastic but still bring some Mediterranean atmosphere to the place. Grape paintings are under the glass plates on the tables. This is the place for Italian specialties, pastas, risottos and polentas.

• Prosciutto di San Daniele = a 1961 ham from the Venice area.

• Giardinetto x 4 = mixture of four pastas; canneloni, agnolotti, tagliatelli and cappelletti.

• Orrecchio d’elefante = thin veal.

• Osso buco = stewed veal shank.

• Italian salad mixed at the table.

• Bel Paese and Gorgonzola from the cheese trolley.

Marc Annibal de Coconnas

2 place de Vosges, Rue de Birague, 75004. Phone: 4278 5816. Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday. Price: FFr.640 ($125) for two. All major cards. (G5).

An excellent restaurant a few steps from Place de Vosges, conveniently located and well designed, ovned by Claude Terrail of Tour d’Argent fame.

From the lobby there is a view into the kitchen. The dignified dining room is L-shaped, rather narrow, divided by an arch. Red draperies, large paintings and large mirrors are on the walls and red leather chairs at solid tables of wood.

• Mariniére de moules au Noilly = marinated mussels.

• Terrine de foie gras frais maison = fresh goose liver terrine of the house.

• Poule au pot du bon Roy Henri = boiled chicken soup.

• Petites cailles au chou braisé et raisin frais = quails with braised cabbage and raisins.

• Craquelin de pommes, poires et noisettes = crunchy cake of apples, pears and hazelnuts.

• Soufflé chaud au Grand Marnier = hot Grand Marnier soufflé.

Miravile

72 quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 75004. Phone: 4274 7222. Fax: 4274 6755. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.680 ($133) for two. All major cards. (F5).

An excellent and cozy restaurant on the river bank avenue, just east of Rue de Lobou, opposite the west end of the Saint-Louis island.

The dining room is small and friendly, with comfortable antique chairs, yellow linen and yellow walls, periodically disturbed by metro vibrations.

• Tartalettes des calamars sautés au safran = tartalettes of octopus fried in saffron.

• Mille-feuille craquant de homard chantilly aux herbes = flaky pastry with lobster in cream sauce with herbs.

• Sole meuniére au beurre de vieux vinaigre = sole sautéed in butter and aged vinegar.

• Tarte feuilletée aux pommes = flaky apple pastry cake.

• Pétales de pamplemousse au caramel = grapefruit crown with caramel sauce.

Muniche

27 Rue de Buci, 75006. Phone: 4261 1270. Fax: 4566 4764. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E5).

A noisy brassiere designed by Slavik, situated a few steps from Boulevard Saint-Germain, a stone’s throw from the church. The brassiere style in Paris comes from Alsace. Many Parisians from the entertainment industry come here to dine, as the place is open for dinner orders until 3 o’clock in the morning. The cooking is elevated classic German, very filling.

In the middle of the dining area there is a bar and a buffet with glass tiers above. On the sides there are platforms with mirrors and alcoves for four. In the middle of the floor the tables are packed tightly. This is a noisy place. The experienced waiters run to and fro and there is much clinking at the buffet where glasses are washed.

• Claires no. 2 = oysters.

• Soupe au oignons = onion soup.

• Jarret et choucroute = lightly smoked ham with sour cabbage, the German “Eisbein mit Sauerkraut”.

• Poule au pot = boiled chicken.

Nicolas Flamel

51 rue Montmorency, 75003. Phone: 4271 7778. Fax: 4271 7879. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.420 ($82) for two. All major cards. (F4).

One of the most romantic and pretty restaurants in town, with mediocre food and service, in one of the oldest houses in town, from 1407, in the Beaubourg area between Rue Beaubourg and Rue Saint-Martin.

The ground floor is more agreeable than the second one. The ancient pillars and beams are much in evidence. Service is sporadic and haughty, the cooking average and unimaginative, preventing the visit becoming unforgettable, but the price is right.

• Ravioles aux trois fromages a la créme de champignons = ravioli of three cheeses and mushroom sauce.

• Saucisson Lyonnais = warm Lyon sausages with lentils.

• Filets de rouget á l’huile d’olives, étuvée de poireaux = fillets of red mullet in olive oil and dry-cooked leek.

• Coeur de rumsteak á la créme de roquefort = beef fillet with roquefort sauce and potato pie.

• Crumble aux poires á la cannelle = pear crumble with cinnamon.

Pactole

44 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005. Phone: 4633 3131. Fax: 4633 0760. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch. Price: FFr.560 ($110) for two. All major cards. (F5).

The famous restaurant of Roland and Noëlle Magne is cozy and central, situated on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue des Bernardins, about 300 meters from Notre-Dame. Check before you come whether the patrons are will be on the premises.

A blazing fireplace and an oversize mirror greet diners who enter from the busy boulevard. The dining room is decorated with chandeliers, bouquets and a lot of impressionistic paintings. This is one of the places where out of priciple English is not spoken by the haughty waiters, and is none the worse for that.

• Ravioli d’escargots à la crème d’ail = snail ravioli in vinegar sauce.

• Salade d’arichaud et haricots vers aux escalopines de foie gras = artichoke and green beans with goose liver slices.

• Escalopines de dindoneau au fenouil = slices of young turkey with fennel.

• Carré d’agneau du Limousin rôti á la violette de Toulouse = ribs of Limousin lamb roasted in a salt crust.

• Pomme au four farcie aux figues au beurre de cidre = oven-baked apples and figs with cider butter.

• Fromages de France = French cheeses.

Petit Laurent

38 rue de Varenne, 75007. Phone: 4548 7964. Fax: 4266 6859. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.620 ($122) for two. All major cards. (D5).

A beautiful restaurant in Louis XVI style with an excellent kitchen on a main west bank street, just east of Hôtel Matignon, the residence of the prime minister. Chef Sylvain Pommier changes his mainly seafood menu every day.

Large curtains, cream-colored walls and white linen characterize the small and comfortable dining room. Service is not without its faults.

• Terrine de faisan au foie, confiture d’oignons = pheasant terrine.

• Foie gras de canard, haricots verts en salade = duck liver paté with green beans in salad.

• Fricassée de pintade á la citronnelle = guinea hen in a white lemon sauce.

• Poélée de Saint-Jacques au beurre de curry = scallops fried in curry butter.

• Crème Catalane á la canelle et citron = milk cream flavored with cinnamon and lemon.

Petit Prince

12 rue Lanneau, 75005. Phone: 4354 7726. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (E5).

An inexpensive restaurant between Panthéon and Sorbonne. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Petit Saint-Benoît

4 rue Saint-Benoît, 75006. Phone: 4260 2792. Price: FFr.260 ($51) for two. No cards. (D5).

An old bistro of low prices in the heart of the left bank. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Petite Chaise

36 Rue de Grenelle, 75007. Phone: 4222 1335. Price: FFr.340 ($67) for two. All major cards. (D5).

The oldest restaurant in Paris, founded just three centuries ago, in 1681. It is the aristocrat of cheap neighborhood restaurants, situated near Saint-Germain. It has an extensive menu with a fixed FFr. 170 price, including wine and service.

The atmosphere is Parisian. The restaurant has old and tired paneling and old paintings on red walls. Chairs and tables are tightly packed. The table clothes are sparkling white and the napkins are of linen. It is an example of the French respect for dining that even in some of the cheapest places the napkins are not of paper.

• Jambon d’Auvergne = ham.

• Mousseline d’avocat = avocado mousse.

• Poulet à la mentonaise = chicken.

• Paté de boeuf au roquefort = beef paté.

• Plâteau de la ferme = cheeses.

• Sorbet framboise = raspberry sorbet.

Pharamond

24 Rue de la Grande-Truanderie, 75001. Phone: 4233 0672. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (E4).

One of the most Parisian restaurants, near Forum des Halles, unassuming on the outside but glorious and quite lively inside. The cuisine hails from Normandy.

This is one of the landmark restaurants of Paris, with Belle Époque decorations from the turn of the century, giant mirrors magnifying the space, flower tiles between the mirrors and a wooden staircase. It is noisy at lunch when all the businessmen are talking at the same time. Service is good and prices fair.

• Terrine de saumon et brochet = fish paté with lettuce and crème fraiche in vinegar.

• Ris de veau à la crème = Normandy ris de veau with cream.

• Bar au beurre bland = poached bass.

• Fricassée de lotte au safran = monkfish.

• Framboises = raspberries.

Pied de Fouet

45 rue de Babylone. Phone: 4705 1227. Price: FFr.280 ($55) for two. No cards. (D5).

An inexpensive left bank restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Récamier

4 Rue Récamier, 75007. Phone: 4548 8658. Fax: 4222 8476. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.680 ($133) for two. All major cards. (D5).

In a particularly peaceful pedestrian street leading to an out of the way garden near Saint-Germain on the Left bank. Chef Robert Chassat has extensive offers on the menu.

In summer it is cheerful to dine on the pavement outside but in winter it is better to retreat to the glassed room inside. Behind that there is an Empire dining room and a well lit bar with a big flower bouquet. The trimmings are old-fashioned with painted wood and checkered wallpaper above. Curtains and glass walls divide the restaurant into smaller units. Service is charming.
• Toast de foie gras de canard = duck liver on toast.

• Fricassé d’escargots frais aux champignons sauvages = fresh snails with forest mushrooms.

• Châteaubriand Récamier = beef bleu.

• Cassoulette de ris de veau aux champignons = ris de veau with mushrooms.

• Cheeses from the trolley.

Roi du Pot-au-Feu

40 rue de Ponthieu, 75008. Phone: 4359 4162. Price: FFr.280 ($55) for two. All major cards. (C3).

An inexpensive restaurant near Champs-Elysées. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Taillevent

15 Rue Lamenais, 75008. Phone: 4495 1501. Fax: 4225 9518. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.1210 ($237) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An elegant temple of cuisine and service near Arc de Triomphe. For decades it has been one of the grand restaurants of Paris and has in addition climbed up the culinary ladder in recent years. The owner is the dining room inspector Jean-Claude Vrinat, and the chef is Philippe Legendre. You have to reserve weeks or even months in advance.

The restaurant is superbly and majestically decorated in the style of Napoleon III. Heavy wood is much in use, chandeliers and flower arrangements. The carpet is thick and expensive. All furnishings match in style. The same can be said about the service, which is among the best in the world, a little on the stiffer side. The well-dressed customers match the style.

• Flan tiede aux champignons des bois = forest mushrooms.

• Terrine de rougets au beurre d’anchois = red bass paté with anchovy butter.

• Mousse de foies blonds à l´huile de noix = foie gras mousse.

• Pigonneau à l´hydromel = roast chicken.

• Cheeses and desserts from trolley.

Tour d’Argent

15-17 quai de la Tournelle, 75005. Phone: 4354 2331. Fax: 4407 1204. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: FFr.1800 ($353) for two. All major cards. (F5).

Owner Claude Terrail has the motto: “Nothing is more serious than pleasure” at this majestic and elegant top-floor restaurant, for decades famous for its numbered ducks, opposite the Tournelle bridge, with an excellent view to Notre Dame.

You are received downstairs by a doorman who leads you through the restaurant museum to the elevator, where a boy whisks you up to the haven of refined dining. Service is perfect without being mechanical. The ducks are flambéed on an elevated stage in front of a map of historical Paris. Everything is beautiful, including the ceiling and the paintings on the walls.

• Quenelles de brochet André Terrail = pike dumplings.

• Saumon fumé d’Écosse = smoked salmon from Scotland.

• Foie gras d’oie des trois empereurs = goose liver.

• Nage de rougets au safran fenouil et olives noires = poached red mullet with saffron, fennel and black olives.

• Caneton á la broche aux navets confits et cæur de salade = duckling on spit with candied turnips and salad.

• Mille-feuille d’ananas caramelisé, sabayon au kirsch = caramelized flaky pineapple pastry.

• Flambée de pêche á l’eau-de-framboise = flambéd peaches in raspberry liqour.

Trumilou

84 Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 75004. Phone: 4277 6398. Fax: 4804 9189. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (F5).

On the Right river bank opposite Ile Saint-Louis, an old tavern for habitués, inexpensive and large. Plain food and no decor.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Strøget

(B2).

The liveliest street in town, the true axis of the center, crowded with pedestrians all day long. All kinds of people mix together and fit together. It takes 15 minutes to walk along the whole street, excluding window-shopping and observing happenings. There are many sidewalk cafés, mainly at Amagertorv. The latter square is the center of importance at Strøget.

We went our way listening to a jazz band’s lively music on the corner of Bremerholm, foreign hippies’ guitar music in a closed bank entrance in Østergade, atomic power friends leaflet distribution on Amagertorv, students’ protest against cuts in the education budget on Vimmelskaftet, and their colleagues’ play about the same issue on Nytorv.

It connects the two central squares of Copenhagen, Kongens Nytorv and Rådhuspladsen. It has the densest concentration of interesting shops for travelers, especially the eastern part of it, in the neighborhood of Kongens Nytorv. Crossing Strøget are also some interesting shopping streets and alleys. At both ends of Strøget there are other popular shopping streets.

We start at Hans Hansen on the corner of Strøget (signposted as Amagertorv) and Hemmingsensgade.

Hans Hansen

Amagertorv 16. (B2).

On the corner of Strøget and Hemmingsensgade, opposite Helligåndskirken church, one of the best silver shops in Denmark, with displays of modern design, including silver-inlaid palisander in fifty different objects. The style of owner Karl Gustav Hansen’s design is angular, almost mathematical, and will probably still be fashionable in the 21st C.

From Amagertorv we continue eastwards on Strøget (signposted as Amagertorv) and soon arrive at Illum’s Bolighus on our left side.

Illums

Amagertorv 10. (B2).

One of the best and most important home-furnishings shops in the world, a four-storey world of wonders, with no single item of a tun-of-the-mill type. Many of the best-known Danish designers are represented at Illums, amongst them Bjørn Viinblad, the illustrious and dynamic creator. Some of his designs are moderately priced at Illums, an exception that proves the rule.

Here the feeling grows inside us that all our odds and ends at home are only worth a classified ad in our local newspaper, and that we must instead get a container full of the artistic, high-quality and clever designer items at Illums. The central main hall of the shop was originally a courtyard behind many narrow houses that one by one were added to the shop.

This is an ocean of lamps, carpets, fabrics, furs, fashions, ceramics, jewelry, glass, kitchenware, tableware, furniture and other things for the house. Our local shops seem provincial by comparison. On our last visit we especially noticed simple lampshades with inlaid dried flowers. They were beautiful and reasonable priced, but alas, too bulky for a travelers baggage.

Next door is Royal Copenhagen, Den Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik.

Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik

Amagertorv 4. (B2).

Having incorporated it nearest neighbor and competitor in porcelain, Bing & Grøndahl, it is now the best known producer in the world of serial Christmas plates, Mother’s Day plates and the Seagull china collection. It has also incorporated Holmegaard glassware and Georg Jensen silwerware, and offers now porcelain, glass and silver under the banner of Royal Copenhagen.

Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik and Bing & Grøndahl were the first to underglaze a century ago, to color porcelain before glazing. Originally they mastered the blue color, best known from the Seagull and Empire collections. Later black was mastered and the Falling Leaf collection was sold around the world.

There are hundreds of types of tableware, gliding birds, swimming fish, smiling children, statuettes, lamps, vases and ashtrays. And twelve beautiful Copenhagen plates. Many items have a singular, polished magic.

On the other side of the street we see the W.Ø. Larsen tobacco shop.

Larsen

Amagertorv 9. (B2).

The premier pipe- and tobacco shop in Denmark was founded in 1864 and has been owned by the same family for five generations. To the right of the entrance there is a small museum on the history of smoking. Exhibited are many types of pipes, including Indian peace pipes and porcelain pipes.

The shop itself is on the left side, long and narrow. It sells rare pipes, rare pipe tobacco, rare snuff and the finest real Havanas in the world.

On continuing eastwards we come to the pedestrian Købmagergade leading off Strøget to the north.

Købmagergade

Købmagergade. (B2).

Three well known gourmet shops line this side street. On the right side are side by side the Melhede butcher shop at no. 52 and the Czar-Andersens cheese shop at no 32. They exhibit dozens of different sausages and more than hundred French cheeses in addition to the local ones.

Opposite these shops, at no. 15 the Marstand bakery sends aromas of fresh Danish Pastry, Napoleon cakes and many other diet-forgetting delicacies.

We turn back to Strøget (here signposted as Østergade) and continue to the east. An pedestrian alley called Pistolstræde leads north off the Strøget.

Pistolstræde

(B2).

The nicest shopping alley in town, giving us a glimpse of the 18th C, even if deodorized. The furrier Birger Christensen worked for years with architect Erik Møller to rehabilitate this old and dying alley by renovating the old half-timbered houses.

To the left of the entrance is Bee Cee, a subsidiary for young women of Christensen’s main shop. To the right is the St Laurent Rive Gauche fashion shop. Next on the right is the Bee Cee lunch restaurant with happy paintings by Jean Dewasne. On the left is Court Gallery, showing abstract art including Miro and the Cobra group, which became famous here.

We walk past an inlaid chessboard in the pavement, continue past Chanel and More & More on the left and Skandinavisk Glas and Duqaine Hansen on the right. Skandinavisk Glass sells glassware from all the Scandinavian countries, including the designs of Orrefors and Kosta.

At the right hand turn of the street we arrive at the back door of Ting & Sager.

Ting & Sager

(B2).

A tiny and cramped rag shop in a house from 1750, overflowing with kitchen utensils, blouses, carpets and other most amusing and unbelievable things.

Beside Ting & Sager is Cranks Grønne Buffet, the best-known vegetarian restaurant in Copenhagen, in a building from 1728.

The most beautiful half-timbered houses are in this part of the alley.

Continuing on Pistolstræde we pass restaurant Alsace on our right. Arriving at Ny Østergade we turn left and go a few steps to Bjørn Viinblad’s Hus.

Bjørn Wiinblads Hus

(B2).

A combination of a gallery and an art shop, showing and selling objects made by Bjørn Viinblad. This 18th C. house with an inside atrium with a fountain has been changed into a fairy tale.

Exhibited are ceramic plates, large circular tables, quaint posters, reprints of sketches for the ballet and theater, bedroom sheets and jewelry. Wiinblads flowery style is unmistakable.

If we continue and turn right we arrive at the front doors of Ting & Sager and Crank’s Grønne Buffet. Otherwise we turn back and walk on Pistolstræde to Strøget (signposted as Østergade) where we see Holmegård directly opposite the entrance of Pistolstræde.

Holmegaard

Østergade 15. (B2).

The main outlet of a famous Danish glassworks, well known for its President collection of wine glasses. One of its main designers is Per Lütken, famous for his Ships collection of wine glasses. Another is Michael Bang, who designed the Globetrotter glasses. A third one is Torben Jørgensen.

Available are all kinds of glass objects, not only glasses.

Holmegaard is now under the Royal Copenhagen umbrella, just like Bing & Grøndahl and Georg Jensen.

On the other side of the street we see the main outlet of Birger Christensen.

Birger Christensen

38 Østergade. (B2).

One of the best known furriers in the world. Here every fur is special, tastefully designed. Only in-house design is sold. And a new line is brought out twice a year. The prices range from DKr. 9,000 to DKr. 250,000. The pride of the house is the Saga-mink line bred in 20 colors.

We are soon at the end of Strøget. On our right, we come to Bang & Olufsen.

Bang & Olufsen

Østergade 3-5. (B2).

Danish design is evident in this audio and video equipment shop. The flat and gracious style is the hallmark of Bang & Olufsen technology.

Beside Bang & Olufsen, on the corner of Kongens Nytorv square, the is Østergades Vinhandel.

Østergades Vinhandel
Østergade 1. (B2).

One of the best-known wine shops in Copenhagen, on the former premises of the 19th C. restaurant Genelli.

We now cross Strøget and continue on Kongens Nytorv past the Angleterre hotel and arrive at the Couronne de Lierre florist.

Couronne de Lierre

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The best florist in town, on the ground floor of the palace of Store Skandinaviske. It is small and inconspicious. The flowers are beautiful and some of them are rare. They specialize in making unusual flower arrangements.

We retrace our steps back along Kongens Nytorv, cross Strøget and come to the palace of Magasin du Nord.

Magasin du Nord

Kongens Nytorv 13. (B2).

One of the largest department stores in Scandinavia. It is very practical for travelers as the various departments include offers from most of the specialty shops of Danish design.

Finally we take a taxi or walk 1200 meters to the Israels Plads outdoor market. From Kongens Nytorv we walk north along Gothersgade all the way to Linnesgade where we turn left to arrive at the market.

Israels Plads

Israels Plads. (A2).

A small market with a good choice of most fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. The prices are about 60% of the prices of shops in the city center. It is most lively on Saturday, when there is also a flea market until 14.

Den Permanente

(A3).

A perennial pride of Copenhagen, this applied art gallery and boutique specializes in home furnishings, designed by Danish artists and architects. It has designer furniture and avant-garde tableware and earthenware, ceramics and fabrics, jewelry and other finery, games and decorations.

Tivoli

Tivoli. (A3).

Spring has arrived in Copenhagen when Danes start to amuse themselves in this garden, unparalleled anywhere else in its special Danish-ness, the relaxed atmosphere called “hygge”. Nothing is more likely to relax a stressed mind or gladden a sorrowful heart. The place is so imbued with effortless Danish joy, that it dwarfs the Disneylands and theme parks of other countries.

From 1843 this famous amusement park has been in the heart of Copenhagen, a blissful place of peace and variety, only a few steps from the heavy downtown traffic. We leave modern reality and enter the strange and beautiful worlds of fairy tales. We imagine faraway continents with minarets and pagodas. We enter our own imagination in this surrealistic combination of unbelievables.

Tivoli is a kind of democracy mixing people from upstairs and downstairs, where young and old have a good time side by side. All are equal, all are informal, both the ambassador and the thrash-man. The park has many faces. We can sit down in morning peace and quiet by the lake. We can sample the rides in the afternoon. In the evening we can dance or observe the play of colors.

Tivoligarden is an integral part of Tivoli.

Tivoligarden

Tivoli. (A3).

An orchestra of 106 boys from the ages of 9 to 16, as old an institution as the park itself. It marches Thursday at 17:00 and Saturday & Sunday at 18:30 and 20:30; and plays at the Plænen in front of the H.C. Andersen’s palace Sunday at 15:15.

Tivoli opens at 10 in the morning. Then the baby-sitters arrive, leaving the children in the park’s kindergarten. Widows on pensions, who have bought seasonal tickets to the park, look at the flower displays and rest on the benches. Even businessmen come at noon to finish deals at the lunch table. The rides for children start at 11:30 and all is in full swing by 15:00.

Valmuen, the children’s theater has shows Saturday and Sunday at 13:30 and 14:30 and Wednesday-Monday in July.

We turn our attention to the pantomime Påfuglsteatret.

Påfuglsteatret

Tivoli. (A3).

The peacock theater has been a specialty of Tivoli for a century. It is a pantomime theater according to Venetian rules from the Renaissance. We see Harlequin, Columbina, Pierrot and Cassandra show the classic type of pantomime. It starts Monday-Saturday at 19:45, Saturday also at 21:45. There is a ballet at Påfuglsteatret Monday-Friday at 21:45.

Next we go to Koncerthallen in the center of the garden.

Koncerthallen

Tivoli. (A3).

Music is an integral part of Tivoli. Its center is a concert hall, Koncertsalen, where the garden’s own symphonic orchestra plays, often with illustrious foreign soloists. The first evening performance usually begins at 19:30 and the last one at 21:00. It plays both classic music and modern jazz.

Other orchestras and bands play elsewhere in the park. Open-air concerts start at Promenade-pavilionen about 16:00 and continue with short pauses until midnight.

Acrobatic artists appear on Plænen at 19:00 and 22:30 all days and also Saturday and Sunday at 17:00. In Tivoli-teatret plays usually commence at 19:30 and 21:30.

The H.C. Andersen’s palace houses the vax museum.

Voksmuseum

Tivoli. Hours: Open in summer 10-23, in winter 10-18. (A3).

We see Charles, Prince of Wales, and Karl Gustaf, King of Sweden, at a reception given by Margaret, Queen of Denmark. We also see the Middle Eastern leaders Arafat and Rabin and the presidents of world powers at a press conference. We see the writers Hemingway and Shakespeare in a library. We also see all kinds of figures from the fairy tales of H.C. Andersen.

There are 200 full-size figures in the museum.

DKr. 48 for adults and DKr. 20 for children.

When the evening comes on and the lights start to dominate, Pagoden comes into the forefront.

Pagoden

Tivoli. (A3).

At 19:00 the over 20 restaurants in the park start to light up, including Pagoden. At 20:00 the dancing starts at Taverna, folk-singing at Vise-Vers and jazz at Slukefter. The merrymaking increases in the evening when it gets dark. 110,000 multicolored lamps and lights in fountains and in the beds of 160,000 flowers illuminate the park. Some days end with a firecracker show.

We don’t recommend a formal walk through Tivoli. Much more interesting is to wander around and lose one’s way, getting carried by the continuous flow of smiling and laughing people. But we can show you the way around. You may arrive by the main entrance, facing Vesterbrogade. On our right-hand side there is an information office and the Valmuen children’s theater.

We go straight on past Promenade-pavilionen to our right and the Plænen open-air stage on the left. Restaurant Balkonen is opposite Plænen. That is the place for a drawn-out dinner, watching the happenings on Plænen, the acrobats, the firecrackers and the marching of Tivoligården.

The best restaurant in Tivoli is Sct. Georg III. This time we are sampling the atmosphere and prefer to have dinner at Færgekroen.

Færgekroen

Tivoli. (A3).

After dinner at romantic Færgekroen we return to Plænen. From there we go through the fountain area to the carnival merry-go-rounds, where the Rutchebanen switchback is most popular and Baljebanen brings you to the sunken world of Atlantis. Here also is a Ferris wheel and about 20 other rides.

We walk between gadgets and roulettes past the Taverna dancing hall, go behind the concert hall, past the Pagoden pagoda and the mirror saloon. We walk counter-clockwise around the lake where we recognize restaurant Færgekro. We keep to the lake, walk past the kindergarten and the H.C. Andersen’s palace, where the vax museum is inside.

We walk through the flower garden all the way to Harmonia-pavilionen where we leave the lake and turn to the right past Tivoli-teatret and restaurant Grøften which is the most zestful and the most Danish restaurant in the park. Finally we pass Påfuglsteatret and arrive again at the main Vesterbrogade entrance. We have spent a whole day here and are ready to come again.

Another place for children is just 100 meters from the entrance. It is Circus Benneweis.

Circus Benneweis

Jernbanegade 8. (A3).

An important part of the special charm of the city center. The building is more than a century old. The fifth generation of the oldest circus family in Europe, the Benneweis family, is in charge. From April 1st to the end of October each year this circus has a two and a half hour performance each day and twice on Saturday and Sunday. In winter the circus goes traveling.

Animals are central to the show, drilled by the Benneweis family. White Arabian horses and elephants have the most interesting performances. In addition new artists are collected each spring, such as clowns, tightrope walkers, acrobats, magicians and jugglers. Often the shows are performed by visiting circus groups. Everybody has fun and thrills, both young and old.

We include the Copenhagen Zoo which is a short way from the center in the eastern direction along Vesterbrogade and its continuation in Roskildevej.

Zoo

Roskildevej 32 / Søndre Fasanenvej. Phone: 3630 2001. Hours: Open 9-16/18.

The zoo is one of the oldest in the world, opened in 1859, but does not look its age, as it is under constant renovation. It has experienced better success than most others in making the animals relatively happy in conditions not natural to them. This is probably one of the very few zoos where Indian elephants, white rhinos and Congo peacocks have had offspring.

This is noteworthy as the zoo is in a restricted space in the city itself. But its directors and zoologists have put special emphasis on trying to make the animals comfortable in spite of the conditions. The zoo is open all year round, but is most interesting when flowers are in bloom. Entrance is DKr. 55 for adults, DKr. 27 for children. Buses 27 and 28.

It boasts 500 different species, some of them a rarity in zoos. Among them are the Bengali tiger, the musk ox and the Congo peacock. There are of course also lions and panthers, camels and zebras, giraffes and ostriches, bears and antelopes. The animals are most lively at feeding times. A special area is reserved for the children’s zoo where you can touch the animals and play.

Old Town

Warrior bishop Absalon founded Copenhagen in 1167 by building a castle on the island of Slotsholmen. The fishing village around the castle soon grew into a merchant town, giving it the present name, which means: “Merchants’ harbor”. For centuries the royal palace was on the island and the merchant town was on the banks round the island. Now the parliament is on Slotsholmen.

It became an official capital of Denmark in the early 15th C. Many churches and palaces in the center date from a building boom in the 17th C. during the reign of Christian IV. Devastating city fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed most of the ordinary houses inside the city walls, so that the present-day architecture of the old center is mainly from the beginning of the 19th C.

We cover the old town inside the former city walls in three short walks. The first one covers Slotsholmen and the oldest part of the merchant town. This is the area between the main squares of the center, Kongens Nytorv and Rådhuspladsen.

We start on Kongens Nytorv, where it meets pedestrian Strøget.

Kongens Nytorv

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The most beautiful square in central Copenhagen, lined with palaces and enjoying a green park in the middle. It is dominated by the snow white Angleterre hotel with its long glassed-in sidewalk café. Other buildings of note are the palace of the Store Skandinaviske company; the Charlottenborg academy of arts; and the royal theater and opera, Kongelige Teater.

There are some amusing bars at Kongens Nytorv or a few steps from it. Hviids Vinstue, one of the oldest pubs in town, and Skindbuksen are between Angleterre and Kongelige Teater and Brønnum is between Kongelige Teater and Charlottenborg.

We walk to the green Krinsen park in the middle.

Krinsen

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The green is around an equestrian statue of Christian V. The statue is a recent bronze copy of the original lead statue from 1688. During the centuries the leaden feet of the horse has sunk, making it advisable in 1946 to change to a stronger material.

On the other side of the square, beside Nyhavn, there is Charlottenborg palace.

Charlottenborg

Nyhavn 2. (B2).

Built in Baroque style 1672-1683, at that time considered to be the most elegant building of Copenhagen. The Royal Academy of Arts, Den Kongelige Akademi, has been there since 1754. Behind the palace is a big gallery, where important exhibitions are held.

To the right of Charlottenborg there is the Kongelige Teater = The Royal Theater.

Kongelig Teater

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The conspicuous palace from 1872-1874 houses the royal theater, the royal opera and the royal ballet. The main auditorium holds 1500 spectators and the smaller auditorium holds 1000.

Theater, opera and ballet are top class in Copenhagen. Inspect the monthly “Copenhagen This Week” or the local newspapers to find information on performances.

We cross the Holmens Kanal street from the theater palace to the department store of Magasin du Nord, formerly the famous Hotel du Nord. We walk past the store and turn right into Vingårdsstræde, go past the gourmet temple of Kong Hans and arrive at Bremerholm street where we turn left.

Holmensgade

(B2).

This was once a narrow and a notorious street named Holmensgade with shady bars and bordellos. The occupations of sin were driven away by demolition and moved first to Nyhavn harbor and then to the Istedgade area behind the central railway station. Now solemnity reigns here and nothing reminds us of the former atmosphere.

The district around the street dates partly from the years after the city fire of 1795. Many of the old house shave been demolished and new ones built in their places, completely spoiling the character of the district. We can have a look in some of the small and older side streets.

We continue on Bremerholm, cross Holmens Kanal, a street that was once a canal, and walk along Havnegade to the former island of Bremerholm.

Bremerholm

(B2).

The former island was the shipyard of the royal navy. The workforce came from the Bremerholm prison where prisoners for life were kept.

Denmark was a naval power some centuries ago. The glory of its kings was mainly based on the navy that was built here almost under the windows of Christiansborg, the kings’ palace. Once this fleet ruled over almost the whole of Scandinavia and at another time it ranged to distant continents and colonies.

We turn our attention to the church on our right, Holmens Kirke.

Holmens Kirke

Holmens Kanal. Hours: In summer 9-14, in winter 9-13. (B3).

Built in 1563 as the anchor factory of the royal shipyard. This Renaissance factory was converted into a church for the navy in 1619 by orders of the great builder Christian IV. Since then the church has been renovated several times. In 1641-1643 it was enlarged by adding two wings, giving it a form of a Greek cross. The long chapel along the canal is from 1705-1708.

Queen Margaret II of Denmark was married here in 1967.

Then we continue along Havnegade to the canal. We cross by the Børsbroen = Stock Exchange Bridge from the island of Bremerholm to the island of Slotsholmen = Palace Island.

Slotsholmen

(B3).

We are on the island that for centuries has been the political center of Denmark, first as the island of the bishop, the the island of the king and now as the island of the parliament and part of government.

The common people of Copenhagen did not always respect the king and court as much as the latter wished. The palace is partly situated on a small islet which formerly was the garbage mound of the city, Skarnholmen or Garbage Island. In 1650 the king had to declare formally that it was forbidden to use the name Skarnholmen for Slotsholmen.

The island is now the address of parliament, the supreme court, the foreign ministry, a few museums, the state archives, the royal library and the stock exchange Børsen.

Børsen = The Stock Exchange, is in front of us.

Børsen

(B3).

The long and low building of the stock exchange was built in Dutch Mannerist style 1619-1640 by Christian IV. It is richly adorned both inside and outside. Most conspicuous is the long and narrow tower woven together of four dragon tails.

We turn left and walk around Børsen into Slotsholmsgade and walk along it, past an ancient government buildings on the left side of the street.

Kanselli

(B3).

In the 18th and 19th C. this building housed in its right wing the Kanselli ministry of finance and economics and in its left wing the Rentekammer ministry of justice, church and education.

We continue along the street to the square in front of Christiansborg palace.

Christiansborg

(B3).

The imposing palace front rises behind an equestrian statue of Frederik VII. We see the balcony on which new kings are proclaimed in Denmark. The present palace was built 1907-1928 after a palace fire of 1884. It is covered in granite from Bornholm island and has lots of copper on the roof as do so many palaces in Copenhagen.

It houses the Danish supreme court, the national parliament, the ministry of foreign affairs and the reception rooms of king and government. Excavations under it have revealed the remains of the 12th C. castle of bishop Absalon. All Danish royal palaces were built in the same place up to the Great Fire of 1794, when the king moved from the ruins to Amalienborg palace.

When Danish kings resided in the town of Roskilde, power in the city was in hands of bishop Absalon’s successors. The Danish king took over in the 15th C. And finally, in times of democracy, parliamentarians and ministers took the place of the king. Christiansborg has thus weathered all the vicissitudes of political history.

We leave the heavy traffic of the square and go through the passage between the palace to the right and the state archives to the left and enter into Rigsdagsgården = The Parliament Courtyard.

Rigsdagsgården

(B3).

The name translates to The Parliament Courtyard. To the right we see the impressive entrance to the Danish parliament, which occupies a part of the former royal palace.

We turn left into the first passage and enter the rose garden of Det Kongelige Bibliotek. To the left side of the garden is the Proviantgården = The Provisions House.

Proviantgården

(B3).

This is the former storehouse of provisions for the royal navy. The busy harbor of the navy was where the peaceful rose garden is now. The Danish kings based their power and wealth on the navy, so they liked to keep an eye on it through their palace windows.

For a long time the Icelandic manuscripts of the Nordic Eddas and Sagas were kept in Proviantgården. By agreement between the states of Denmark and Iceland these manuscripts were returned to their home in Iceland, showing the way for other countries to settle their differences on ownership of antiques that have been removed from their original home in times of trouble or decay.

The rose garden is named after Den Kongelige Bibliotek = The Royal Library, which is behind the garden.

Kongelig Bibliotek

Christians Brygge 8. Hours: Open Monday & Friday-Saturday 9-19, Tuesday-Thursday 9-21. (B3).

Built in 1898-1906 to house the royal or national library. 3,3 million books are kept there and 52,000 manuscripts. It stands in the former entrance to the harbor of the royal navy.

On the third side of the garden there is Tøjhuset. To enter it we return through the passage to Rigsdagsgården, and turn left for the entrance.

Tøjhuset

Tøjhusgade 3. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-16. (B3).

Built in 1598-1604 as the barracks of the Royal Guard. It has since 1838 been an arsenal museum, one of the major ones in the world. The display is in one of the longest rooms in Europe, 163 meters, housing endless rows of ancient cannons.

DKr. 20 for adults, DKr. 5 for children.

The royal stables are opposite Tøjhuset entrance. We pass between them and the parliament and enter the equestrian training grounds of the royal palace. From the grounds we enter into the inner courtyard to the palace.

Slotsgården

(B3).

Several museums are entered from the Slotsgården courtyard.

The Royal reception rooms: Guided tours at 11 & 15, in summer Tuesday-Sunday, in winter Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday. Adults DKr. 28, children DKr. 10 The Medieval ruins, including Absalon’s castle: 9:30-15:30, in summer all days, in winter Sunday & Tuesday-Friday. Adults DKr. 15, children Kr. 5. The royal stables: 14-16, in summer Friday-Sunday, in winter Saturday-Sunday.

The meeting rooms of the parliament: Guided tours every hour 10-16, in summer Sunday-Friday, in winter on Sunday. From the outer equestrian training grounds we can enter the Court Theater, now a theater museum, open Wednesday 14-16, Sunday 12-16. Adults DKr. 20, children Kr. 5.

We walk through the grounds away from the palace, come to a canal, cross it on the Marmorbroen = Marble Bridge, and directly from the bridge into Ny Vestergade, where the entrance to Nationalmuseet is on the right hand side.

Nationalmuseet

Ny Vesterbrogade 10. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-17. (B3).

One of the oldest and largest national museums in the world is housed in Prinsens Palæ, The Palace of the Prince. It is in fact nine different museums.

The exhibits are mainly archeological, historical and ethnographic, but there is also a coin museum, and a museum of natural history.

Adults DKr. 30, children free.

We continue on Ny Vestergade, cross Vester Voldgade, enter Dantes Plads and cross H.C. Andersens Boulevard to enter Glyptoteket museum.

Glyptoteket

Dantes Plads 7. Hours: Open in summer Tuesday-Sunday 10-16, in winter Tuesday-Saturday 12-15, Sunday 10-16. (B3).

Built in 1888 for one of Europe’s greatest museums of ancient art, mainly Egyptian, Greek and Roman art.
Adults DKr. 15, children free.

We return the same way via Dantes Plads and Ny Vestergade to Marmorbroen bridge. At this side of the bridge we turn left and walk along the canal to the next bridge, Vindebro, cross it and enter into Vindebrogade, where Thorvaldsens Museum is in front of us. Across the canal are the Nybrogade houses.

Nybrogade

(B3).

No. 12 in Nybrogade is one of the proudest Rococo houses of the former bourgeoisie in Copenhagen, richly decorated with sandstone. And nos. 14-20 are typical “firehouses” in Baroque style, built after the Great Fire of 1728.

From Vindebrogade we enter Thorvaldsens Museum

Thorvaldsen Museum

Porthusgade 2. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-17. (B3).

Built 1839-1848 around the works of the famous Danish-Icelandic sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. The exhibition is dominated by serene white Neoclassic works based on Greek mythology.

When we leave the museum we turn left along the Supreme Court part of Christiansborg palace and then again left between the museum and Slotskirken = The Palace Church.

Slotskirken

(B3).

The palace church is in Neoclassic style from 1826. It was recently damaged in a fire and is being restored again.

We are now back at the square in front of Christiansborg palace. We turn left and cross the canal on Højbro to enter Højbro Plads square.

Højbro

(B2).

This is the ancient entrance to the merchants’ town of Copenhagen. A fish market was at the foot of the bridge until recently. A statue reminds us of the fish saleswomen. A greater statue of bishop Absalon, the founder of the city, is in the middle of the square.

From the bridge we have a good view, if we turn around to se Holmens Kirke, Børsen, Christiansborg, Slotskirken and Thorvaldsens Museum, counting from left to right.

We also observe beautiful old houses on the square, at nos. 6, 9 and 17-21. The best seafood restaurants in Copenhagen are here beside the former fish market, at Gammel Strand and at Ved Stranden.

From the bridge we turn left into Gammel Strand. Assistenshuset is in front of us.

Assistenshuset

(B2).

The official pawnbroker house from 1728 now houses the Ministry of Culture.

We go to the right of Assistenshuset and walk into Snaregade.

Snaregade

(B2).

An authentic town street, narrow and winding, full of the quiet charm of olden times. Old business quarters line the street on both sides.

We have entered the old merchants’ and artisans’ Copenhagen. In this district many streets are named after the typical occupation of its residents. We can find Vognmagergade = Coach makers’ Street; Farvergade = Dyers’ Street; Brolæggergade = Bridge Builders’ Street; and Læderstræde = Leather Street. One is named Hyskenstræde in memory of the small Häuschen of Hansa merchants.

Snaregade soon changes into Magstræde. Where the two streets meet we take a short right-hand turn into Knabostræde to the corner of Kompagniestræde to enjoy the atmosphere of former times more fully. Then we walk back on Knabostræde and turn right into Magstræde.

Magstræde

(B3).

Time seems to have stood still in this street. The buildings no. 17 and 19 are considered to be among the oldest, if not the oldest buildings in Copenhagen.

At no. 14 there is Huset = The House, a kind of a club and a social center for youth.

We do not rush here, as Snaregade and Magstræde are probably those streets of the city have succeeded best in preserving the atmosphere of a bygone ear. Their winding prevents us being disturbed by a view to more modern streets and structures. This place closes in on us as though we were in a private world.

At the far end of Magstræde we come to a very small square, Vandkunsten = Water Magic, where the water pump of Christiansborg palace was formerly situated. We turn right into Rådhusstræde = City Hall Street, and walk up to Nytorv = New Square, first, and then into Gammeltorv = Old Square.

Gammeltorv

(B2).

Nytorv and Gammeltorv were formerly the focus of daily life in Copenhagen. They are still lively, but now it is only because pedestrian Strøget runs through them. The City Hall was until the Great Fire of 1795 at the intersection of the squares, just below where Strøget now runs through. A new City Hall was built elsewhere and the two squares were combined.

Community meetings were held on Gammeltorv. Here the court jousted to amuse the public. Here people were flogged and executed, both to amuse and to warn the public. Here of course was the pillory and the jail. Here also the city fathers’ pub was in the City Hall cellar. Here traveling clowns and artists performed. It was fun here.

Noble houses enclose the squares. The courthouse of Copenhagen is here. In the middle of Gammeltorv there is one of the city’s gems, a fountain from 1608-1610. On royal birthdays, golden apples bob in the water. And we can sit down beside the fountain and have a coffee or a beer and watch the world go by.

We turn northeast into Strøget, which here is first called Nygade and then Vimmelskaftet, until we come to Helligåndskirken = The Church of the Holy Spirit, on our right side. We walk around the church into Hemmingsensgade to inspect the adjoining Helligåndshuset behind the church.

Helligåndshuset

Hours: Open workdays 12-16. (B2).

One of the very oldest buildings in town, built in the middle of the 14th C. as the hospital of an Augustine monastery in Catholic times. It is now used as a conference hall.

The church itself is from 1730-1732, built after the Great Fire of 1728.

We continue further on Hemmingsensgade to Gråbrødretorv = Gray Friars’ Square.

Gråbrødretorv

Gråbrødretorv. (B2).

The favorite square of local intellectuals. Students congregate in this pedestrian area, surrounded by tall and narrow, brightly painted 18th C. houses, away from traffic noise and jostling crowds. It is lined with pubs and cafés and restaurants with outdoor sections. It is a closed world, especially when there are musical performances in the open.

We sit by the fountain, on benches, at one of the tables, or stand in groups in the middle of the square. Here people know each other and greet each other. We can also visit rather noisy beer cellars or serious restaurants. This is the most human square in the city center. We are now in the Latin Quarter around the University of Copenhagen, echoing songs for centuries.

The name of the square reminds us of the Fransiscan monks who had a monastery here just beside the Augustine monastery at Helligåndshuset. The remains of the Franciscan monastery can be seen in the Bøf & Ost restaurant in a 16th C. cellar of Gråbrødretorv 13, where there are archeological findings on display in niches in the walls.

We leave the north end of the square through a short street grandly named Kejsergade = Emperor Street. First we have a glimpse into Skindergade to the right to see an old street section before we walk that street to the left. It runs to Gammeltorv and from there continues as Vestergade in gentle curves past tranquil, white houses all the way to Rådhuspladsen = City Hall Square.

Rådhuspladsen

Rådhuspladsen. (A3).

A continuous stream of cars and pedestrians cross this busy square, which connects the old district around Strøget with the modern shops and offices district around Vesterbrogade. The Tivoli Gardens are behind the Copenhagen Corner restaurant building and behind the gardens there is the central railway station.

Extensive changes are being made on Rådhuspladsen to keep motorized traffic away and to make the square more pleasant to pedestrians. The Vesterbrogade traffic artery has been slashed, preventing motorized traffic to connect with H.C. Andersens Boulevard. Bus traffic has been limited to the northern end of the square and cut off from view by a narrow building.

We turn our attention to Rådhuset = The City Hall.

Rådhuset

Rådhuspladsen. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9:30-15, Thursday -16. (A3).

A famous building, rather eclectic in style, built in 1892-1905 in the Historical style, copying Florentine Renaissance architecture and considered a great scandal at that time.

The main attraction of the city hall is a universal clock made by Jens Olsen. It is just inside the main door and shows many different time zones and the paths of the stars, unparalleled in the world. It is accessible when the building is open and also on Saturday 10-13.

We turn away from the City Hall and walk north along Vester Voldgade to Jarmers Plads.

Jarmers Plads

Jarmers Plads. (A2).

In the middle of the square are the remains of a tower from 1528, a part of the city walls that have made way for the traffic arteries of Vester Voldgade = West Wall Street; Nørre Voldgade = North Wall Street; and Øster Voldgade = East Wall Street.

We turn back into Vester Voldgade and turn left into Studiestræde = Street of Studies, now a street of antiquarians, with some sidewalk book displays. We cross Larsbjørnsstræde and are at the corner of Nørregade where we turn left. Bispegården = The Bishop’s Residence, is at this corner.

Bispegården

(A2).

The Bishop’s Palace was once the City Hall of Copenhagen.

Towering over Bispegården on the other side of Nørregade is Vor Frue Kirke = Our Lady’s Church.

Vor Frue Kirke

Nørregade. Hours: Open 8-17. (A2).

The Classicist cathedral of Copenhagen is stern and cold, rebuilt in 1811-1829 after the British shelling of the city in 1807. The church is best known for Thorvaldsen’s sculptures inside.

To the left of the cathedral is the University of Copenhagen.

Universitetet

Frue Plads. (B2).

The university faces the right side of the cathedral. Behind the facade from 1831-1836 there is a tranquil, medieval atmosphere in the courtyard.

We enter the university courtyard at the left of the entrance to see Konistoriet = The Consistorium.

Konsistoriet

(A2).

The only relic of the Catholic bishopric of the Middle Ages. In its cellar six Romanesque vaults rest on granite columns.

We leave the courtyard and turn right into Nørregade. At Nørregade 13 is a “fire house” from 1728. On the corner of Nørregade and Skt. Pedersstræde there is Sankt Petri Kirke.

Sankt Petri Kirke

Nørregade 15/ Skt. Pedersstræde. Hours: Open during services. (A2).

The oldest church of the city, first mentioned in 1304, rebuilt several times after city fires. The present look is mainly from 1731 and it has a remarkable sepulchral chapel from 1681-1683.

On this side is Kannibalen = The Cannibal, the university students’ dining hall. The name implies that the food has not always been outstanding.

We turn right and walk along Krystalgade past Daells department store to Fiolstræde, where we turn left.

Fiolstræde

(A2).

This is a pedestrian street of hawkers’ stands and book-cases of antiquarians.

After looking around we turn back and walk south on Fiolstræde, past a nicely renovated half-timbered house on our left and the university library on our right. We arrive again at Vor Frue Kirke, this time at the back of the cathedral. We stop to observe the church and university from a new angle before we turn left into Store Kannikestræde = Great Choir Brothers’ Street.

Store Kannikestræde

(B2).

The street of student hostels, the heart of the Latin Quarter. Most of the houses have for centuries been directly or indirectly connected with students and the university. Famous hostels are here on both sides, Borchs Kollegium at no. 12, Elers Kollegium at no. 9 and Admiral Gjeddes Gård at no. 10. We have a quick look into the serene yard of Borchs Kollegium.

At the far end of the street to the left we arrive at the Regensen hostel and enter its courtyard.

Regensen

Købmagergade. (B2).

The largest and most important student hostel in the area, built in 1623-1628 and partly rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1728. The dominating red brick walls date from that year. Here we can rest at the central lime tree in the courtyard.

Rundetårn looms over Regensen.

We leave the courtyard, continue on the street, cross Købmagergade and enter Rundetårn = The Round Tower.

Rundetårn

Købmagergade. Hours: Open in summer Monday-Saturday 10-20 (-22 on Tuesday & Wednesday) & Sunday 12-20, in winter Monday-Saturday 10-17 & Sunday 12-16. (B2).

A combined observatory and a church tower of Trinitatis Kirke, built in 1656. It is 36 meters in height and 15 meters in diameter. They way up the tower is along a spiral road, not a staircase. Empress Catherine of Russia in 1716 drove up in a coach while her husband, Czar Peter the Great, went up on horseback. We know of no other royal enterprises of that kind in later centuries.

The road is easy on the feet. We are soon at the top, where we have an excellent view over the roofs and towers of the old center. We get a good idea of how cramped the city center is inside the former city walls.

The observatory in the tower is open in summer on Sunday 13-16, in winter Tuesday-Wednesday 19-22. Adults DKr. 15, children Kr. 5.

When leaving the tower we turn left into pedestrian Købmagergade and stroll along this shopping street in the direction of Strøget. Before we reach Strøget we turn left into Silkegade and continue into Antonigade, turning again left, into Gammel Mønt.

Gammel Mønt

(B2).

This area was once one of the worst slums of Copenhagen, full of dangerous passages. In a side street the illustrious sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen was brought up by quarreling parents.

This is an area of Brandhuse = Fire Houses. These are the houses that were built immediately after the great fires of Copenhagen in the 18th C. Some of the half-timbered houses are even older than that.

We return on Gammel Mønt almost to Antonigade and turn left into Grønnegade to Gothersgade where we turn right into Kongens Nytorv where we started this walk. The next walk also starts here.

Frederikssted

The center of Copenhagen was enlarged in the 18th C. The addition constitutes the northern part of the center. It is sometimes called Frederikssted, planned by strict and modern rules at that time, with broad streets and respectable houses. But this development lacks the zest of the old center. The liveliest street is the shopping street of Store Kongensgade.

The area is interesting for tourists because of the Nyhavn harbor, the Amalienborg royal palace, the Kastellet fortress with the statue of Den Lille Havfrue and also because of the many parks and museums in that area.

We start and end this walk on Kongens Nytorv, the same square that was the start and the end of our walk through the oldest part of central Copenhagen. We already know about square and its surroundings, so we immediately cross the square from Angleterre hotel and enter the Nyhavn harbor on its left side. Kanneworffske Hus is on the corner of Bredgade and Store Strandstræde.

Kanneworffske Hus

(B2).

Do notice the quaint corner angle of the houses on the opposite corners of Store Strandstræde.

To see some houses from the latter part of the 18th C. we can walk along Store Strandstræde to the corner of Lille Strandstræde where we take a sharp right turn and walk that street back to Nyhavn. We take note of nos. 3 and 18 at Store Strandstræde and nos. 14 and 6 at Lille Strandstræde.

Back in Nyhavn we observe the houses at Nyhavn to the right and left of Lille Strandstræde.

Nyhavn

(C2).

The harbor was built in 1673. The oldest Nyhavn house is no. 9, from 1681. We do not miss an unusual clock on the roof of no. 11 and an old pub sign from 1803 on no. 23. Many pubs are there, but the foreign languages you hear do not belong to sailors but to tourists. There are no fights any more, and no knives flash in the air.

We should take our time in walking the length of Nyhavn. There are many interesting, amusing or quaint details worth inspecting and lots of bars where to look for a drink. Some good restaurants are also here.

Nyhavn also has some things to tell us about H.C. Andersen.

H. C. Andersen

There are other memories than those of merry sailors connected with Nyhavn. The teller of fairy stories, H.C. Andersen, liked this street. He wrote his first stories in no. 20, lived with interruptions 1854-1864 at no. 67 and spent his last two years at no. 18.

Arriving at the tip of Nyhavn we have a good view over the inner harbor of Christianshavn.

From Nyhavn we turn left into Kvæsthusgade and then left again into Skt. Annæ Plads. We see the signs of a few good hotels on this short part of the walk. We continue on that street, cross Toldbodgade and turn right into Amaliegade and walk along it all the way under the overpass to the square in front of Amalienborg, the royal palace.

Amalienplads

(C2).

The octagonal Rococo square from 1749-1760, surrounded with four identical palaces, is one of the main attractions of Copenhagen. The royal guards with their enormous fur hats are some of the most frequently photographed subjects in the city. They come marching along Amaliegade into the square for the ceremonial changing of the guards at 12:00.

The four palaces merit our attention.

Amalienborg

(C2).

Four identical Rococo palaces built in 1749-1760 for four noblemen. Together they became the royal palace of Denmark after the old palace in Slotsholmen burned down in 1794.

Clockwise from Amaliegade, from which we entered the square, there is first the palace for royal receptions and banquets, then the palace of the late King Christian X, then the palace of Queen Ingrid, widow of King Frederik IX, and finally the palace of the present Queen Margaret II. The royal banner over that palace shows whether she is in residence.

King Christians VIII Palace, Danish Glücksborg royalty’s private quarters, are open 11-16 some days in winter. Inquire at hotel. Adults DKr. 35, children Kr. 5.

From the middle of the square we can see Marmorkirken = The Marble church, and we walk in that direction.

Marmorkirken

Hours: Open Monday-Friday, 11-14, Wednesday -18,Saturday-Sunday 12-16. (C2).

The real name of this Neo-Baroque church is Frederikskirke. It has one of the largest cupolas in the world, 45 meters in height and 30 meters in diameter, covered with green copper. The building, started in 1746, was not finished until 1894.
Adults DKr. 20, children Kr. 10. The cupola is accessible Saturday at 11, DKr. 20.

From the church we go back to Bredgade and turn left into that street where we soon come to Kunstindustrimuseet = Museum of Handicrafts, on the right side of the street.

Kunstindustrimuseet

Bredgade 68. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 13-16. (C2).

Formerly Frederiks Hospital, now a museum of old and new handicrafts, Danish and foreign. It can be entered both from Bredgade and Amaliegade.

Adults DKr. 30, children free.

Back in the street we turn right and walk along Bredgade to Esplanaden where we turn right. Frihedsmuseet = The Resistance Museum, is on the other side of the street.

Frihedsmuseet

Churchill-parken. Hours: Open in summer Tuesday-Saturday 10-16, Sunday 10-17. (C1).

The small building exhibits memories from the struggle of the Danish resistance during the 2nd World War.

We go past the museum into the Churchill park with the English Church. On its right there is the Gefion fountain.

Gefion

(C1).

The sculpture shows the Nordic goddess Gefjun, who changed her sons into bulls to draw a plow that she used to carve Denmark out of southern Sweden, according to mythology.

We walk on a pedestrian road from the Gefion fountain to Langelinie, pass Langelinie Pavilionen and continue to Den Lille Havfrue = The Little Mermaid.

Den lille Havfrue

Langelinie. (C1).

Edward Eriksen’s sculpture from 1913 is the internationally known landmark and sign of Copenhagen.

Beyond The Little Mermaid the street turns away from the harbor. We walk over a bridge and then turn left off the street to Kastellet = The Citadel.

Kastellet

Langelinie. Hours: Open 6-sunset. (C1).

The citadel fortress of Copenhagen, built 1662-1665 above an older fortress. The outer ramparts are partly destroyed but the inner pentagon is still intact.

There are interesting gates and the Kastelskirken Church, which is cleverly connected with the jail in such a way that the prisoners could hear services without leaving their cells.

The most beautiful part of Kastellet is the windmill on the western front.

We again cross Churchill park to Esplanaden, where we turn right and walk along it until it ends at Store Kongensgade. On that corner we see to the right a part of the Nyboder district from 1631. Then we turn left into Store Kongensgade and then immediately right into Skt. Paulsgade. On the right side we soon come to Nyboder = New Apartments.

Nyboder

(B1).

Christian IV had these long houses built for the royal navy’s employees in 1631. The lower houses are original, the others have been enlarged.

We continue on Skt. Paulsgade past the Skt. Paulskirke to the end and turn right into Rigensgade and then left into Stokhusgade, named after a notorious prison that took over from Bremerholm in 1741. Nothing is to be seen of the old prison, as the technical university of Copenhagen has been built here. We cross Øster Voldgade and the railway overpass to Østre Anlæg.

Østre Anlæg

(B1).

A beautiful garden, laid out in the old fortress moat. The original form of the moat can still be seen.

We walk through the garden in the direction of Statens Museum for Kunst = The State Museum of Art in the southern corner of the garden.

Statens Museum for Kunst

Sølvgade 48-50. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-16:30, Wednesday -21. (B1).

It has a good collection of old masters, especially Dutch. There are important works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Cranach, Tintoretto, Mantegna, Titian, Hogarth, Dürer, Braque, Matisse, Picasso and others. There are also Danish masters.

We cross Sølvgade to Botanisk Have = The Botanical Garden.

Botanisk have

Gothersgade 128. Hours: Open in summer 8:30-18, in winter 8:30-16. (B1).

25,000 different plants, among them rain forest plants grown indoors in the greenhouse Palmhuset. The garden has a rosary, a rock garden and perennials.

The 1872 glass conservatory Palmhuset is in the northeastern part of the botanic garden, inspired by Crystal Palace in London. It is open 10-15.

The cactus and orchid house is open Saturday-Sunday 13-15.

We cross Øster Voldgade and walk back to the corner of Sølvgade where we enter Kongens Have = The King’s Garden, near its north corner to visit the Rosenborg palace.

Rosenborg Slot

Øster Voldgade 4A. Hours: Open in winter Tuesday, Friday & Sunday 11-14, in September & October all days 11-15. (B2).

Kongens Have is the oldest park in the city and one of the largest. There are beautiful roses and lime trees. The biggest jewel, though, is the Rosenborg palace, near the western edge of the garden.

Rosenborg Slot = Palace of Roses, was built 1606-1617 in Renaissance style by that tireless builder Christian IV. The palace was the royal summer residence and later became the royal reception palace until it was changed into a royal museum in 1858.

The crown jewels and other royal memorabilia are exhibited. Open November-August Tuesday-Sunday 11-14, September-October all days 11-15.

We leave the park by one of the south gates and cross Gothersgade, then walk that street to the left straight to Kongens Nytorv, the starting and ending point of this walk.

Christianshavn

(C3).

The last walk through the old center of Copenhagen, which was inside the former city walls, covers the part that is on the other side of the inner harbor, on the island of Amager.

There are some romantic canal scenes, a few important churches, old harbor buildings that have been converted into modern use, and the semi-free state of Christiania.

We take a bus or a taxi or walk over Knippelsbro bridge to the corner of Torvegade and Strandgade. We then first turn to the right in the direction of Christians Kirke at the end of Strandgade.

Christians Kirke

Strandgade 1-2. Hours: Oopen in summer 8-18, in winter 8-17. (B3).

A Rococo church from 1755-1759, flanked by small pavilions. Magnificient Rococo interior with storeyed galleries.

On the corner, at Strandgade 14, is the old town hall of the Christianshavn district.

We walk back Strandgade to the north, cross Torvegade and continue on Strandgade. When we come to Skt. Annægade the palace of Asiatisk Kompagni = Asia Company, is opposite that street.

Asiatisk Kompagni

(C3).

The palace from 1740 evokes memories of the golden age when the Danish fleet roamed the oceans and Denmark was a colonial power. The palace now houses the Foreign Ministry.

Next to Asiatisk Kompagni there is Gammel Dok opposite Bådmandsstræde.

Gammel Dok

Strangade 27 B. Hours: Open 10-17. (C3).

An old warehouse has been artistically converted into offices, a museum and a café with a good harbor view.

Adults DKr. 20, children free.

We look into the backyard of no. 44 where there were artillery barracks, now changed into flats, before we continue along Strandgade. Then we continue on Strandgade to the canal, where we turn right. Here we enter the Amsterdam of Copenhagen. We walk along the canal to Overgaden Neden Vandet.

Christianshavn Kanal

(C3).

This part of Copenhagen was laid out in 1618 by Dutch architects and engineers summoned by the repeatedly mentioned super-builder Christian IV. It reminds us of the Amsterdam canals.

At the corner of Overgaden Neden Vandet we have an excellent view along Christianshavn Kanal with freshly painted boats nestling at the quays and old houses and warehouses nestling in the streets. We note the Dutch hoists on the narrow house fronts.

At the canal corner we turn right into Overgaden Neden Vandet and walk to Skt. Annægade, where we turn left to the Vor Frelsers Kirke = Our Savior’s Church.

Vor Frelsers Kirke

Sankt Annægade 29. Hours: Open in summer 9-16:30, in winter 9-15:30. (C3).

The unique spiral tower was added in 1747-1752 to the already existing Baroque church from 1682-1696. The spire is 87 meters, second only to the city hall spire.

We can climb the tower on the inside and the spire on the outside in April 1966 when tower has been opened after reparations.

On the other side of the church we turn into Prinsessegade, cross Bådmandsstræde and are on the lookout to the entrance of Christiania on the right side of Prinsessegade.

Christiania

(C3).

A kind of a free state of young people who occupied these barracks of 170 houses in 18 hectares of central land when they were abandoned in 1971 and were to be torn down. It has evolved into one of the main tourist attractions of Copenhagen. The middle-aged hippies and other eccentrics of Christiania do not frown upon square-looking and camera-toting visitors.

After much haggling between the squatters and the authorities the experiment of Christiania was reluctantly accepted on a temporary basis. Christiania has since been a colorful part of town, with inexpensive restaurants and experimental theaters, lots of music and some eccentric buildings.

The place was somewhat run down and soiled, only a shadow of its former self but has recently become invigorated through tourist commercialization.

We cross Christiania to the other side and arrive at the old city ramparts where we turn right.

Ramparts

(C3).

In 1659 these ramparts saved Copenhagen from a Swedish onslaught. Now they have been changed into peaceful public parks. We turn right and saunter relaxedly along them, getting invigorated by the change from the Christiania garishness.

When we come to Overgaden Over Vandet, we leave the ramparts and continue along Christianshavn Kanal.

Overgaden

(C3).

On this side of the canal there are many beautiful old houses, mostly built by rich merchants in the 18th C.

In no. 58 there is Orlogsmuseet = The Royal Danish Naval Museum, open Tuesday-Sunday 12-16.

Arriving at Christianshavn Torv at the corner of the Torvegade traffic artery, we have finished this short sightseeing walk and are ready to take a taxi or a bus or to walk over Knippelsbro bridge to the mainland side of Copenhagen.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

A la Vecia Cavana

Rio terra SS. Apostoli, Cannaregio 4624. Phone: 523 8644. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A gourmet place about 600 meters from Rialto bridge. From the eastern bridge-head we follow a signposted route in the direction of Ferrovia, the railway station. After 500 meters we arrive at Santi Apostoli. We turn right on the left side of the church, walk Salizzada del Pistor to Giorgione hotel where we turn right and walk to the end of the street, where we turn left.

Behind the entrance a seafood counter leads to a Romanesque arch which divides the restaurant into two bright dining rooms. The quality interior has lots of hardwood walls and modern paintings, dense beams in the ceiling, large windows, tiled floor, flowers, candlelights and yellow table linen. In addition to the carte there are several four- and five-course menus.

• Antipasto misto di pesce Vecia Cavana = red shrimps and two varieties of gray prawns, half an octopus and sliced squid.

• Insalata di polipi e sedano = celery and octopus salad.

• Penette di grancio = crab pasta.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad with lots of red-leaved endives.

• Gamberi imperiali alla griglia = four grilled large prawns.

• Filetto di San Pietro = grilled St Peter’s fish.

• Parmigiano e gorgonzola = parmesan and blue Gorgonzola cheese.

• Macedonia di frutta fresca = sliced fresh fruit with whipped cream.

Agli Alboretti

Rio Terra Sant’Agnese. Dorsoduro 882. Phone: 523 0058. Hours: Closed lunch & Wednesday. Price: L.150000 ($95) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A gourmet restaurant of experimental menus in an a creaky, old building at the side of the main museum in Venice, Accademia. From the boat landing in front of the museum we walk to the left of the museum. The place is in that street, alongside an hotel with the same name, about 100 meters from the landing.

This is a rather plain hotel dining room with dense beams in the ceiling, furniture of quality, including lathed chairs, white walls and gallery posters on the walls, a tiled floor and blue linen. When we were there last time an Israeli week was on, with old Hebrew recipes from the Italian book: “La cucina nelli tradizione ebraica”.

• Uova ripiene de avocado = poached egg whites, filled with avocado puré, served with chopped tomato and cucumber.

• Falaffel con houmus e theina = hot and round pea dumplings, crisp outside and soft inside, with whole cooked onions and puréed sesame seeds.

• Zuppa di pesce = seafood soup.

• Mazzancolle in salsa verde = large prawns in green sauce.

• Avocado gratinado con scampi e curry = gratinated and curried avocado with scampi.

• Carciofi alla giudia = artichokes fried in oil in the Jewish manner.

• Gnochi de zucca con ricotta affumicata = pumpkin dumplings with smoked ricotta cheese.

• Arista di aiale al latte = roasted pork loin in milk sauce.

• Manzo a la greca = cooked beef cuts with pumpkins and artichokes.

• Selvaggina di valle in salme = lagoon game stew.

• Frutta di stagione = apple, pear and kiwi.

• Golosità al Muffato della Sala = hard Venetian cookies soaked in Muffato della Sala wine.

• The coffee of the house served in a glass.

Agli Amici

Calle Botteri, 1544. Phone: 524 1309. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.105000 ($66) for two. No cards. (B1).

In the San Polo district, abou 400 meters from Ponte Rialto. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ai Gondolieri

Fondamenta Zorzi Bragadini, Dorsoduro 366. Phone: 528 6396. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An engaging restaurant in an old building in a nice place in Dorsoduro, on the way between Accademia and Santa Salute, about 300 meters from Accademia. From the boat landing we go to the left of Accademia and turn left at signposts for the Cini and Guggenheim museums. When we come to the canal Rio della Torreselle we turn right and cross a bridge to the restaurant door.

From the entrance bar there are a few steps up to a small and busy dining room with a terrazzo floor and gallery posters on fully paneled walls, with candles and flower arrangements. In front there is a table with tempting desserts. A wide vase of glass, full of raw, uncut and colorful vegetables is served while waiting. Groups are put into a tight room off the bar.

• Sformati = raw vegetables, two types of pepper, cuccumber, chicory, celery etc.

• Petto de pollo tartufo con radiccio = chicken breast with truffles, chicory and tiny tomatoes.

• Tagliere de polenta con funghi freschi = corn puré pasta with mushrooms.

• Risotto di secole = chopped beef on fried rice Venice styles.

• Verdure freschedi stagione = mixed salad of various vegetables.

• Specialità del giorno = lightly salted leg of lamb with lightly vinegary sauerkraut and a clear vegetable sauce.

• Filetto de angus ai ferri = broiled filet of beef.

• Scelta di formaggi freschi = hard cheeses, grana and taleggio.

• Varietà di dolci della casa = desserts from the cart.

Al Campiello

Calle dei Fuseri, San Marco 4346. Phone: 520 6396. Fax: 520 6396. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.180000 ($114) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A restaurant for theatergoers between Piazza San Marco and Ponte Rialto, about 300 meters from the piazza, near the Fenice and Goldoni theaters, named after the best known comedy of Goldoni. From the west end of Piazza San Marco we walk to the shopping street Frezzeria, turn into it, cross a bridge and continue on Calle dei Fuseri, where we turn left into an alley.

The modern restaurant is in three parts with openings between them. Pink and lightly brown wallpapers cover the empty-looking walls between a few modern paintings. The walls are lined with soft benches. Comfortable and solid chairs with curved backs are on the green terrazzo floor. Servants in black smoking jackets know their profession.

• Polenta con porcini e gorgonzola = mushrooms with corn puré, mixed with blue-veined gorgonzola cheese.

• Mazzancolle con porcini all’aceto balsamico = large prawns with porcini mushrooms and spiced vinegar.

• Risotto di seppie = squid on pan-fried rice.

• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver with onion and corn puré in Venice style.

• Insalata capricciosa = mixed salad.

• Coda di rospo alla siciliana = pan-fried angler with pan-fried vegetables, tomato, olives and potatoes.

• Rombo alla griglia = grilled turbot.

• Frutta fresca di stagione = diced melons and pears.

• Dolci al carrello = desserts from the cart.

Al Conte Pescaor

Piscina San Zulian, San Marco 544. Phone: 522 1483. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A lively romantic seafood restaurant near Piazza San Marco, 200 meters from the piazza. We walk along the north side of San Marco and turn left into Calle dei Specchiere, pass the back side of San Zulian and continue onwards until we arrive at the place. It is in two buildings and on a porch in front of one of them. We go into the other house.

Tempting first course carts inside the entrance lead to a clean restaurant of two rooms at an angle, with light walls, beautifully decorated with antique household things. Enchanting chandeliers of wrought iron are over the tables, multicolor tiles on the floor and white linen on the tables. Guests sit at benches along the walls, on lathed chairs or in wooden bays.

• Gamberetti olio e limone = red shrimp in oil and lemon juice.

• Cicale di mare e cappesante = mantis prawns and scallops.

• Zuppa di pesce e crostini = fish and shellfish soup.

• Risotto con gli scampi = scampi on pan-fried rice.

• Insalata verde = green salad.

• Orata ai ferri = pan-fried gilthead.

• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi.

• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver with onion and corn puré in Venice style.

• Macedonia di frutta fresca = diced fresh fruit.

Al Graspo de Ua

Calle Bombaseri, San Marco 5094. Phone: 520 0150. Fax: 523 3917. Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A busy and a lively restaurant a few steps from the Rialto bridge. From its southern side we cross the eastern bank and walk directly into the Bembola alley and take a right turn into the next alley. Inside there is a food buffet with cooked and uninteresting vegetables in warm containers. A cooler with raw vegetables, fruit and desserts is more interesting.

The dining area is on platforms around the buffet, opening into the kitchen beside the entrance. Hanging wine racks and large black beams painted with golden sayings characterize the place. Two walls are covered with parquet, lots of small paintings cover another wall. Otherwise the place is decorated with paintings and incidental photos. Waiters are efficient and informal.

• Avocado con gamberetti in salsa rosa = avocado and shrimp in mild tomato sauce.

• Granceola de bragoseto al limone = crab with lemon.

• Tagliolini alla pescatora = shellfish pasta.

• Insalatina = salad.

• Coda di rospo al forno = baked angler with white potatoes and baked tomato.

• Sogliola di porto ai ferri = baked soli in port wine.

• Frutta del bosco = raspberries and blackberries.

• Sacher mandorla = Austrian chocolate cake.

Alla Madonna

Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594. Phone: 522 3824. Fax: 521 0167. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.115000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A very good and busy restaurant, popular with locals, only 100 meters off Rialto bridge. We walk from the west bridgehead to the left along Riva del Vin and turn right into an alley, where the restaurant is on the left hand side.

People sit tight in several crowded, small rooms. The place is simple, with lots of paintings on the bright walls, comfortable chairs and white linen. Quick and knowledgeable waiters must thread roundabouts between the tables where noisy customers are all talking at the same time. The atmosphere is appetizing.

• Gamberetti = red shrimp in oil and lemon juice.

• Zuppa di pesce = fish soup.

• Sarde in saor = sardines in vinegar.

• Risotto pescatore = seafood on fried rice.

• Pasta e fagioli = pasta and peas.

• Insalata mista di stagione = mixed salad of the season.

• Rospo alla griglia = grilled angler.

• Rombo alla griglia = grilled turbot.

• Macedonia di frutta = diced fresh fruit.

Antica Bessetta

Calle Savio, San Polo 1395. Phone: 72 1687. Hours: Closed Tuesday & Wednesday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. No cards. (A1).
One of the best and nicest restaurants is remotely situated in San Polo, about 200 meters from the Riva del Biasio boat landing.

From the landing we walk the bank to the left to its end, turn right and walk Rio Terrà to its end, turn right again and then immediately left into Salizzada Zusto. The restaurant is in the corner where the street meets Calle Savio.

The Volpe couple runs the place, she in the kitchen and he in the clean and simple dining room, where dozens of various paintings decorate the walls. She cooks in traditional Venetian style. There is no menu and Mr. Volpe, who speaks almost no English, explains what is currently available. It is an unforgettable experience to devour whole spider-like soft-shelled crabs.

• Antipasto misto di pesce = two types of shellfish, shrimp, two small octopuses, squid slices and a sardine.

• Risotto al pesce = shellfish on fried rice.

• Moleche = deep-fried soft-shelled crab, a Venetian specialty.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Rospo ai ferri = baked angler.

• Brizzola alla griglia = grilled sea bass.

• Tiramisù = Venetian coffee cheesecake with cocoa.

• Frutta fresca di stagione = fresh fruit of the season.

Antica Carbonera

Calle Bembo, San Marco 4648. Phone: 522 5479. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.125000 ($79) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A lively and popular eatery about 200 meters from the Rialto bridge. From the eastern bridgehead we walk south on the Riva del Ferro bank and turn left into Calle Bembo, where the restaurant is on the right side. A loaded food buffet greets visitors at the entrance.

Behind the buffet and to the left are the tables, some of them in bays on platforms along the walls and others on the middle of the floor. The bay sitting is vertical and rather uncomfortable, but the chairs are comfortable. Quality wood reaches up to photos of visiting personalities and accidental paintings. Old, limping and charming waiters are relaxed and familial.

• Granceola = spider crab in a shell, with lemon and red cabbage.

• Gamberetti alla limone = red shrimp with lemon.

• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi in the shell.

• Risotto di pesce = shellfish on fried rice.

• Spaghetti alla seppie = squid on spaghetti.

• Legume di stagione = various pan-fried vegetables.

• Coda di rospo alla griglia = grilled angler.

• Rognoncino trifolato = chopped kidneys in wine.

• Fegato alla veneziana = calf liver and onion.

• Parmigiano = parmesan cheese.

• Frutta fresca = apple, pear and clementines.

Antica Locanda Montin

Fondamenta di Borgo, Dorsoduro 1147. Phone: 522 7151. Fax: 520 0255. Hours: Closed Tuesday & Wednesday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Well-known and off the beaten track, but in spite of that only 400 meters from the major Accademia museum. From the Accademia boat landing we walk a signposted track to Piazzale Roma in the west. After about 300 meters there is a signposted alley to the left to the Rio della Eremite canal, where we turn left along the canal to reach the restaurant.

The charming dining room is elongated. Behind the far end there is a garden for outdoor dining in good weather. Bright walls above the panel are covered with rows of paintings. There is pink linen on the tiny tables that are moved asunder or together according to the size of incoming companies. The service is good. The minus is the owner’s family hanging about the table at the bar.
• Granceola all’olio e limone = shredded crab, mixed with vegetables, olive oil and lemon, served in a shell.

• Insalata di gamberoni e rucola = shrimp salad.

• Rigatoni ai quattro formaggi = pasta with four types of cheese.

• Insalata mista = lots of mixed salad.

• Branzino ai ferri = pan-fried sea bass.

• Orata della corona ai ferri = pan-fried gilthead.

• Bocconcini di pollo al curry con riso = chopped chicken in curry on rice.

• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and grana cheeses.

• Macedonia di frutta fresca = apple, grapes and kiwi.

• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake flavored with coffee.

Antico Martini

Campo San Fantin, 1983. Phone: 522 4121. Fax: 528 9857. Price: L.230000 ($145) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Well-known luxury restaurant beside the entrance to the Fenice opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Antico Pignolo

Calle dei Specchieri, 451. Phone: 522 8123. Fax: 520 9007. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Arcimboldo

Calle dei Furlani, Castello 3219. Phone: 528 6569. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.190000 ($120) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Amusingly furnished and remote restaurant about a kilometer from Palazzo Ducale. We walk on the Riva degli Schiavoni promenade about 600 meters to the Pietà church. Beyond it we turn left and continue northward along several alleys until we reach Calle del Lion, where we turn right and continue over a bridge into Calle dei Furlani.

The walls are decorated with oversized replicas of paintings by Arcimboldo, who did human faces in the likeness of vegetables and fruit in the 16th C. Green and soft sofas line the walls. The ceiling is green and the linen is pink. A buffet table in the middle of the tiled floor is loaded with desserts and appetizers. Service is professional and good, the guests are Italian.

• Scampi in saor = marinated scampi with sauerkraut.

• Folpetti alla veneziana = octopus soup.

• Zuppa di cozze e vongole in crosta = shellfish soup with toast.

• Insalata verde = green salad.

• Branzino alla griglia = grilled sea bass with grilled aubergine, pumpkin and red pepper.

• Sogliola ai ferri = pan-fried sole.

• Sorbetto alla frutta = fruit sorbet.

• Frutti = fresh fruit plate.

Bruno

Calle del Paradiso, 5731. Phone: 522 1480. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.90000 ($57) for two. All major cards. (C1).

Near the Santa Maria Formosa square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cantinone Storico

San Vio, 660/661. Phone: 523 9577. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. All major cards. (B2).

About 100 meters from the Accademia museum in the Dorsoduro district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cipriani

Isola della Giudecca 10. Phone: 520 7744. Fax: 520 3930. Price: L.340000 ($215) for two. All major cards. 92 rooms. (C2).

The best hotel restaurant in town, on the island of Giudecca on the far side of the San Marco lagoon. From the Zitelle boat landing we walk to the left on the bank almost to its end and turn right into an alley to the hotel, which is on the eastern tip, opposite the San Giorgio Maggiore island. We can also sail directly to the hotel with the hotel boat or a water taxi.

The hotel is reserved and unassuming on the outside and opulent on the inside. Dinner is served in a dignified and mirrored dining room in the southern end of the hotel and lunch is served in the open on a platform at the peaceful swimming pool garden. The atmosphere is quiet and the service is unusually courteous.

• Crespelle ai asparagi e taleggio = pancake with fresh asparagus and taleggio cheese.

• Cozze in salsa piccante = scallops in anchovy and white wine sauce.

• Tagliatelle con salsa di noci = pasta with walnut sauce.

• Sogliole al marsala = butter-fried sole in Marsala red wine.

• Nocette di agnello = pan-roasted lamb.

• Sorbetto di frutta = fruit sorbet.

• Fragole di bosco con panna = wild strawberries with cream.

Corte Sconta

Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886. Phone: 522 7024. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A plain looking gastronomic temple for local Venetians in a remote location about 1 km from Palazzo Ducale. We walk the Riva degli Schiavoni promenade past the Pietà church and cross the next bridge, pass the long front of the maritime palace, turn left into Calle del Forno and its continuation in Calle del Pestrin, which we walk all the way to the restaurant on the right side.

A few tables are behind the front bar, some more in a parallel room and most in a room to the back of that. The place looks down-market but clean. The old tables are bare, with paper napkins. The walls are bare above the black paneling. There is no menu and the hostess orders some house wine for the table when she describes the main courses of the day.

• Zuppa di vongole = shell soup.

• Antipasto misto di pesce = grilled seafood, including two types of sardines, scampi, red shrimp, octopus and squid cuts.

• Gnochi di gamberetti e asparagi = pasta with shrimp and asparagus dumplings.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Secundo = large prawns, sole and angler, grilled.

• Triglie alla griglia = grilled red mullet.

• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake.

• Grana = hard, Italian cheese with red currants.

• The house coffee served in glass.

Da Mario – alla Fava

Calle Stagneri, 5242. Phone: 528 5147. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (B1).

About 100 meters from the Rialto bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Da Silvio

Calle San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3748-3818. Phone: 520 5833. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A2).

An unrefined neighborhood restaurant for local gourmets on the street between the churches San Pantalon and Frari. From the latter we walk the second alley to the left of Scuola Grande di San Rocco for about 100 meters, almost all the way to San Pantalon, to find the restaurant on the left side.

The front dining room is simple, small and cozy, with good paneling, but the inner one is rather bare. Behind the rooms there is a garden with a few tables. The linen is white and the napkins are of paper.

• Sfilacci di cavallo = red threads of spiced sausages with salad.

• Breasola con scaglie di parmigiano = dried salt beef with grana cheese from Parma.

• Spaghetti alla vongole = shellfish on spaghetti.

• Insalata capricciosa = fresh salad.

• Sogliola ai ferri = pan-fried sole.

• Braciola ai ferri = pan-fried cutlets.

• Scaloppe parmigiana = escalopes of veal with melted cheese.

• Frutta di stagione al pezzo = two varieties of apple, mandarines and grapes.

• Parmigiano = parmesan.

Do Forni

Calle dei Specchieri, San Marco 457/468. Phone: 523 7729. Fax: 528 8132. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.170000 ($107) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Well-known restaurant in two rooms near Piazza San Marco. We walk along the north side of San Marco and turn left into Calle dei Specchiere which leads us to the restaurant.

One of the rooms is rustic, with antiques on the walls, the other is modern and simple in design. Service is quick and rather good but suffers from the size of the establishment. A drink is on the house at the beginning of the meal and sweet biscuits at the end.

• Prosciutto San Daniele = raw San Danieli ham.

• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish with corn puré.

• Risotto di frutti di mare = seafood on pan-fried rice.

• Tagliolini all’astice = pasta with lobster sauce.

• Insalata verde = green salad.

• Scampi giganti alla griglia = grilled scampi.

• Branzino al forno con patate = oven-fried sea bass with potatoes.

• Lamponi = raspberries.

Fiaschetteria Toscana

San Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5719. Phone: 528 5281. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A good and charming restaurants on the way between Rialto and Ferrovia, about 300 meters from the Rialto bridge. We walk from the eastern bridgehead on a signposted route to Ferrovia. After 300 meters we come to San Crisostomo, which is approximately opposite the restaurant.

The preferable ground floor has lively furnishings. A buffet with starters, desserts and wine is at the entrance. The tables are on both sides and behind the buffet. A row of columns divides the place in parts. Many small paintings are grouped together in frames on the walls. The waiters are divergent, some are not above insisting that the flour sauce is the black butter you ordered.

• Moscardini con polenta = small octopuses in fish sauce on corn puré.

• Schie condite con polenta = gray shrimp with corn puré.

• Rombo al burro nero e capperi = pan-fried turbot with black butter, capers and potatoes.

• Caparozzoli alla marinara = shellfish with parsley and garlic.

• Tagliolini con la granzeola = crab on pasta.

• Anguilla alla griglia = grilled eel.

• Filetto al barolo = beef filled spiced with red Barolo wine from Piemont.

• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and montasio cheeses.

• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee.

Fiore

Calle del Scaleter, 2202. Phone: 72 1308. Fax: 72 1343. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).

In the middle of the San Polo district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Galuppi

Via Galuppi, Burano. Phone: 73 0081. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards.

A lively, popular restaurant on the main street on Burano. From the boat landing we walk a very short street to the main street that leads to the left to the church. The restaurant is midways on the right side.

A long and narrow, clean-cut and heavily decorated with paintings. Guests sit mainly in bays with plastic seats. In spite of the tourists in the street most of the customers are local.

• Gamberi = prawn in oil and lemon.

• Scampi e calamari fritto = deep-fried scampi and squid.

• Risi e bisi = thick Venetian soup with ham, onion, peas, rice and grana cheese.

• Tagliatelle verdi con funghi = green pasta with mushrooms.

• Polenta e fontina in torta = oven-baked layers of corn puré and cheese.

• Polipo alla luciana = poached octopus.

• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee and topped with cocoa.

Giardinetto da Severino

Ruga Giuffa, 4928. Phone: 528 5332. Hours: Closed Thursday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A garden restaurant between San Zaccharia and Palazzo Querini Stampalia. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gritti

Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467. Phone: 79 4611. Fax: 520 0942. Price: L.280000 ($177) for two. All major cards. 93 rooms. (B2).

A venerable restaurant in an old palace hotel on the Canal Grande, about 100 meters from the Santa Maria del Giglio boat landing. We walk the alley from the bank, turn right at the first opportunity and then again right.

Along the whole front of the hotel there is a broad tea verandah on the Canal Grande. Behind it the dignified dining room is in Rococo style. Chairs, frames and chandeliers are matching. The dense beams are decoratively painted and there is gleaming marble on the floor. Guests sit on deep cushions in easy-chairs at tables with white linen. Service is extremely civilized.

• La breasola con rucoletta e cetriolo = air dried beef with rucola salad and small cucumber cubes.

• Il capricio di mozzarella con pomodoro e basilic fresco = mozzarella cheese with tomato and fresh basil.

• Il risotto al nero di seppia = black octopus sauce on fried rice.

• Le insalate preparate del carrello = salad mixed at the trolley.

• Gli scampi al forno con carciofi = butter-fried scampi with white potatoes, string beans and artichokes.

• I calamari al vapore con sedano, cetrioli e crema di melanzane = steamed calamari with celery, cucumber and eggplant cream.

• La pescatrice alla brace con verdure e salsa tatara = grilled angler with fried vegetables and tartare sauce.

• Frutti di bosco = wild strawberries, cultivated strawberries and cherries with cream.

• Semifreddo alle zabaione = ice cream with whipped egg yolks mixed with Marsala red wine.

Harry’s Bar

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323. Phone: 528 5777. Fax: 520 8822. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.360000 ($227) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The most famous bar in the world is also a restaurant, a few steps from the southwest corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk into Salizzada San Moisè and turn left into the first alley. The bar is on the waterfront on the left side. The atmosphere of the place is based on its position in American literature and on the Venetian aristocracy which has adopted it as its own.

Rich Venetians outnumber American travelers who are reviving Hemingway’s: “Across the River and Into the Trees”. We prefer to dine at the coffee-tables downstairs at the simple and unassuming bar rather than in the pedestrian and crowded dining rooms upstairs. Incidental travelers are well received and are not made to feel second class.

• Spremuta di pesce = pressed fish juice.

• Asparagi = green asparagus with egg sauce.

• Carpaccio alla Cipriani = marinated beef of the house.

• Tagliolini con prosciutto = pasta with smoked ham.

• Tagliatelle seppie = pasta with squid.

• Tournedos rossini = beef tournedos with goose liver paté.

Hemingway: “Then he was pulling open the door of Harry’s bar and was inside and had made it again, and was at home” (Across the River and Into the Trees).

La Caravella

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2396. Phone: 520 8901. Price: L.200000 ($126) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A sumptuous dining room in the best location in town, on the main street between the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco in the direction of Accademia bridge. It is on the right side where it is widest and the fashion shops most expensive. It is advisable to book well in advance.

An imitation of an aristocratic dining room in a Venetian galley, completely clothed in hardwood, with marine antiques on the walls, leaded windows, a rudder and a mast, a compass and a bell in the middle. It is usually packed and people wait at the bar to be seated. Waiters run back and forth in a perfect serving organization. This is a fine place and not extremely costly.

• La zuppe di pesce alla pescatora = clear seafood soup with shellfish, shrimp and fish.

• La breasola della valtellina con rucola = dried salt beef with salad.

• Le linguine alle cappesante = scallops on pasta.

• I gnochette al gorgonzola = dumplings of gorgonzola blue-veined cheese.

• Insalata servita con crostacei e pesce = traditional mixed salad.

• Gli scampi giganti ai ferri salsa lucifero = oven-baked giant prawns.

• Il rombo ai ferri al burro fuso e capperi = oven-baked turbot with white potatoes.

• Il filetto di bue all’arancio alla bigarade = beef filet with orange rind sauce.

• Formaggi = gorgonzola, taleggio and bel paese cheeses.

• Il sottobosco di stagione = five different kinds of wild berries.

• Il gelato allo champagne = champagne ice cream.

La Colomba

Piscina di Frezzeria, San Marco 1665. Phone: 522 1175. Fax: 522 1468. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.270000 ($170) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A dignified restaurant with paintings by modern artists near Piazza San Marco. From the west end of the piazza we walk 50 meters west to Frezzeria, turn right into that street and then left into Campo di Piscina, which soon changes its name to Piscina di Frezzeria, where the restaurant is on the right side.

The quality furnishings are tasteful and comfortable. Large paintings dominate the walls in the dining rooms. In front there are several tables on the pavement. Service is professional and well-dressed.

• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish, mixed with eggs and herbs, served with pan-fried corn puré.

• Seppioline alla griglia con polenta = grilled squid with pan-fried corn puré.

• Tagliolini con scampi e zucchine = pasta with scampi prawns and zucchini.

• Legumi di stagione = salad of the season.

• Coda di rospo alla Colomba = pan-fried angler.

• Tagliata di bue con verdure alla griglia = grilled beef fillet with grilled potato slices, egg plant, pumpkin and tomato.

• Frutta di stagione = fresh fruit of the season.

• Macedonia di frutta fresca = diced fresh fruit of the season.

La Fenice

Campiello de la Fenice. Phone: 522 3856. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: L.250000 ($158) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Indoor and outdoor restaurant on a small square alongside the Fenice theater, in the same building as a hotel with the same name, about 500 meters from the southwest corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk Salizzada San Moisè and then Calle larga 22 Marzo, where we turn right into Calle delle Veste to Campo San Fantin in front of the theater. Finally we go to the right of the theater.

The restaurant is well-known, rather large and predictable in furnishings. A large part of it is outdoor, where guests have more space. Service is rather unorganized, with everybody milling around, trying to be useful.

• Gamberetti di laguna = shrimp in oil and lemon.

• Contorni insalate = mixed salad.

• Tournedos all’americana = beef filet sheathed in ham.

• Dolci dal carrello = desserts from the trolley.

La Furatola

Calle lunga Santa Barnaba. Dorsoduro 2870a. Phone: 520 8594. Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. No cards. (A2).

A very good neighborhood eatery in Dorsoduro, about 400 meters from the Ca’Rezzonico boat landing. From the landing we walk Calle dei Traghetto to the Campo San Barnaba square and directly onwards on Calle lunga Santa Barnaba, where the restaurant hides on the right side.

Interesting photos from old Venice line the walls between all kinds of antiques. The far end of the dining room opens into the kitchen where Bruno takes care of the cooking and from where the good smells emanate. Sandro is in the dining room taking care of the guests. The linen is yellow. In front there are first courses on a buffet. Sandro shows us the fish on offer today.

• Canoice, gamberetti, polpielle = large prawns, red shrimp, octopus and fish cuts, served cold.

• Spaghetti con salsa di pesce = fish cuts in brown fish sauce on spaghetti.

• Insalate miste di stagione = mixed green salad of the season.

• Orata alla griglia = grilled gilthead, sold by weight.

• Branzino alla griglia = grilled sea bass, sold by weight.

• Il formaggio delle colline venete = a choice of cheeses from the Veneto and Friuli districts.

• La frutta di stagione = fresh fruits of the season.

Locanda Cipriani

Torcello. Phone: 73 0150. Fax: 73 5433. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.220000 ($139) for two. All major cards.

World famous and unassuming gourmet temple in the greenery on the way from the Torcello boat landing to the ancient Santa Maria dell’Assunta. The restaurant sends a motor boat for you to Piazza San Marco, bringing you out in 35 minutes. The scheduled boat takes longer but suits well for a day’s outing in Torcello.

This is primarily convenient for lunch. The dining area is mainly in a large garden behind the kitchen, alongside the famous herb and vegetable garden of the house. In front of the kitchen there is a simple bar for tired travelers who have been inspecting the antique remains on the island. There is a good view from the dining garden to the main attraction of the island.

• Fritto misto = deep-fried mixed seafood.

• Risotto alla Torcello = vegetables from the garden on pan-fried rice.

• Scampi alla griglia = grilled scampi.

• Rombo ai ferri = pan-fried turbot.

• Crostata di frutti = fruit pie.

Nico

Piscina di Frezzeria, 1702. Phone: 522 1543. Fax: 522 1543. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.135000 ($85) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Between Piazza San Marco and Teatro Fenice. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Poste Vecie

Pescheria di Rialto, San Polo 1608. Phone: 72 1822. Fax: 91 3955. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B1).

Combines popularity and quality, well situated just in front of the fish market, Pescheria, about 400 meters from the western bridgehead of Rialto. From the bridge we walk along the market streets Ruga degli Orefici and Ruga degli Speziali to Pescheria and from there over a private bridge to the door of the restaurant.

There are two cozy dining rooms, one of them with a large fireplace. A row of frescos are above the high paneling. Service is excellent.

• Fritto misto di mare = deep-fried mixed seafood.

• Vongole alla marinare = shellfish with parsley and garlic.

• Tagliolini di pesce = seafood pasta.

• Baccalà alla vicentina = oven-baked stockfish with onion, tomato, cucumber, capers and olives.

• Rombo al forno = oven-baked turbot.

• Dolci al carrello = desserts from the trolley.

Rivetta

Ponte San Provolo, Castello 4625. Phone: 528 7302. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. No cards. (C2).

One of the most charming and liveliest neighborhood restaurants for the local population is hidden under a bridgehead behind the Danieli hotel. From the lagoon promenade Riva degli Schiavoni we walk to the left of the old main palace of the hotel into Calle delle Rasse and turn right into Salizzada San Provolo. We will find the place to the right of the first bridge.

As reservations are not accepted there are often crowds at the entrance. People wait for seating and sip white wine, courtesy of the host. The dining area is tight with tables and chairs, but clean and bright, with light paneling and lots of paintings on the walls, and multicolored art deco chandeliers. The prices are the lowest of gourmet restaurants in town.

• Antipasto di pesce = marinated seafood; two types of shrimp, herring, sardine, octopus, squid and two types of fish.

• Pasta e fagioli = peas in pasta.

• Spaghetti al nero di seppia = black spaghetti with octopus sauce.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Gamberoni ai ferri = large shrimp grilled on skewers.

• Scampi griglia = grilled scampi.

• Costata di bue alle griglia = grilled beef entrecote.

• Scaloppe di vitello al marsala = calf escalopes in Marsala red wine.

• Formaggi = taleggio, gorgonzola and grana cheeses.

• Tiramisù = Venetian cheesecake spiced with coffee.

Terrazza

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Price: L.270000 ($170) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A dignified restaurant with a lagoon view on the top floor of the historical Danieli hotel, about 100 meters from Palazzo Ducale.

The room is L-shaped, simple and noble, white and airy, with large windows and a balcony. A thick carpet covers the floor and Venetian rococo chandeliers decorate the ceiling. The restaurant offers luxury food and luxury service at luxury prices in the Danieli style.

• Medaglioni di astice su soncino all’olio di tartufo = medallions of lobster over greens with truffle oil.

• Insalatina di carciofi rucola e code di scampi = salad of artichoke and rocket with scampi tails.

• Vermicelli alle vongole veraci = spaghetti with clams.

• Tagliatelle alla buranella = gratinated egg noodles with fillets of sole, shrimps and béchamel sauce.

• Risotto del pescatore = seafood on pan-fried risotto.

• Tortino caldo di verdure e ricotta su salsa di pomodoro = warm vegetable pie with ricotta cheese served over tomato sauce.

• Varietà di insalate miste = a variety of salads and lettuce.

• Scampi giganti al profumo di prezzemolo = scampi with parsley.

• Grigliata di pesci e crostacei dell’Adriatico = grilled fish and shellfish from the Adriatic Sea.

• Ventaglio di manzo al dragoncello = thinly sliced sirloin steak with tarragon sauce.

• Carrello di formaggi assortiti = cheese trolley.

• Carrello dei dolci = dessert trolley.

• Crespelle del doge alla fiamma = flambéed pancakes.

Tiepolo

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Phone: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Price: L.240000 ($152) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The dignified dining room of the Europe e Regina hotel, with large windows to Canal Grande. From the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco we walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and immediately turn left through an unmarked alley past the gondoliers to get to the hotel entrance. Opposite the reception a smoking room leads to the dining room.

The restaurant is stylish and bright, decorated with plants. Service is very good as is to be expected in this high price class. By ordering the menu of the day we can bring the price down to L. 15000 for two.

• Affettato di cervo e cinghiale affumicato = cold cuts of smoked stag and wild-boar.

• Breasola della valtellina con rucola e spicchi di pompelmo = salted beef with rocket and grapefruit.

• Bigoli in salsa = Venetian spaghetti with onions and anchovy sauce.

• Tagliolini verdi al granchio = green noodles with crab.

• Insalatine degli orti veneti = green salad from the Venetian islands.

• Filetti di orata al tartufo nero = fillets of gilt-head with black truffle.

• Tagliata de manzo ai profumi di stagione = fillet of beef with seasonal vegetables.

• Scelta di formaggi tipici del carrello = cheeses of the region from the trolley.

• Assortimento di frutta di stagione = fruits of the season.

Vini da Gigio

Fondamenta di Chiesa, Cannaregio 3628a. Phone: 528 5140. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.116000 ($73) for two. All major cards. (B1).

An engaging and homey neighborhood restaurant in the Cannaregio district, a few steps from the trail between Ferrovia and Rialto, Strada Nova, about 1 km from Rialto. When we come to the San Felice church we turn right alongside the church and come directly to the restaurant.

It is so popular that it fills up as soon as it is opened for lunch. Most guests seem to know the staff and greet with Italian heartiness. dining is in a few simple and clean rooms. One of them opens into the kitchen. There are ancient beams in the ceiling and stone tiles on the floor, just as in so many other Venetian restaurants.

• Baccalà mantecato con polenta = plucked stockfish with grilled corn puré Venetian style.

• Cappesante alla veneziana = scallops served in shells with herb butter.

• Antipasto di verdure = a vegetable starter.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Anguilla alla griglia = grilled eel with lemon and corn puré.

• Fegato alla veneziana con polenta = calf liver and onion with corn puré.

• Filetto di manzo = beef fillet slices.

• Castelmagno con miele di Corbezzolo = honey cake of the house.

• Fantasia di formaggi = five cheeses.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Hótel í Feneyjum eru yfirleitt hrein og vel við haldið, þar á meðal pípulagnir, ef þau hafa þrjár stjörnur eða fleiri. En tveggja stjörnu hótel geta líka verið mjög góð, þótt þau hafi ef til vill ekki sjónvarpstæki á herbergjum. Einka baðherbergi er talið sjálfsagt. Sum hótel hafa verið innréttuð í frægum höllum, sem eru enn innréttaðar í gömlum stíl.

Dýrara er að gista í Feneyjum en annars staðar á Ítalíu. Þú getur þess vegna gist uppi í landi og farið á morgnana með lest eða bíl í bæinn, en það kostar auðvitað bæði tíma og peninga.

Morgunverður á ítölskum hótelum er yfirleitt nauðaómerkilegur, svipað og á frönskum hótelum. Betra er að fá sér ferskt pressaðan safa, nýbakað brauð og kaffi úti á horni.

Agli Alboretti

(Rio Terra Sant’Agnese, Dorsoduro 884. Sími: 523 0058. Fax: 521 0158. Verð: L.182000 (7698 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 20 herbergi. B2)

Skemmtilegt, lítið hótel í gömlu og brakandi húsi við hlið aðalsafnsins í Feneyjum, Accademia. Frá bátastöðinni framan við safnið er farið hliðargötuna vinstra megin við það. Hótelið er við þá götu, um 100 metra frá stöðinni.

Gestamóttaka er lítil og skemmtilega gamaldags og lyfta er ekki í húsinu. Herbergin snúa ýmist að fremur breiðri götunni milli hótels og Accademia eða að óvenjulega stórum bakgarði.

Herbergi 3 er fremur lítið og einfalt, með glugga út að garði, afar hreinlegt og milt í litum, með síma og hárþurrku, en engu sjónvarpi. Húsbúnaður er gamaldags, nánast forn. Baðherbergið er með minnsta móti, en vel búið og fullflísað. Sturtan tekur þriðjung af plássinu.

Danieli

(Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Sími: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Verð: L.770000 (32569 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 221 herbergi. C2)

Frábært glæsihótel í fagurri, gotneskri miðaldahöll á breiðbakkanum við lónið, nánast við hlið hertogahallarinnar, fyrrum heimkynni Dandolo-ættar. Hótelið er í þremur samhliða höllum og hægt er að gista þar fyrir tvo þriðju hluta verðsins, sem hér er gefið upp, en beztu hertogaherbergin í elztu höllinni eru þau, sem fólk sækist eftir, ef það gistir á stað sem þessum.

Opinberir salir hótelsins eru með því glæsilegasta sem sést, allt lagt marmara og dýrasta viði. Þrjár hæðir eru til lofts í móttökunni og tvær í víðáttumikilli setustofu til hliðar. Þjónar eru misjafnir, sumir eru góðir, en aðrir þyrftu að komast niður á jörðina. Lifandi tónlist er í setustofunni á brezkum tedrykkjutíma og síðan tónlist með söng á kvöldin.

Herbergi 33 er frábært, stórt og ríkmannlegt, með glugga út að lóninu, klaustureyjunni San Giorgio Maggiore og iðandi mannlífi bakkans. Það er í mildum, grænum litum í mjúkum veggdúk, gluggatjöldum, rúmábreiðum og vínskáp. Vandað parkett er á brakandi gólfi. Baðherbergið er sérstaklega glæsilegt, lagt fegursta marmara og einstaklega vel búið, þar á meðal baðsloppum.

Do Pozzi

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2373. Sími: 520 7855. Fax: 522 9413. Verð: L.160000 (6768 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 29 herbergi. B2)

Uppáhaldshótelið okkar, lítið og notalegt, við aðalgötu um 400 metra frá Markúsartorgi, hefur bezt hlutfall verðs og gæða í borginni. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins er gengin Salizzada San Moisè og áfram yfir brú á Calle larga 22. Marzo, þar sem mörg sund liggja til vinstri að Canal Grande. Hótelið er við enda vestasta sundsins, greinilega merkt við aðalgötuna.

Frá lítilli og þægilegri gestamóttöku er innangengt í Rafaele veitingahúsið í sömu eigu. Langir og mjóir gangar eru skreyttir teikningum og málverkum. Þjónusta er afar lipur.

Herbergi 75 er notalegt, fremur lítið og bjart, snýr glugga að Calle larga 22. Marzo og brakar þægilega, þegar gengið er um gólf. Fornlegur húsbúnaður er léttur og vandaður, í mildum sumarlitum. Þar er sjónvarp, sími og vínskápur. Fullflísað baðherbergi hefur líka glugga og er vel búið, til dæmis stóru baðkeri og hárþurrku.

Europa e Regina

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Sími: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Verð: L.565000 (23898 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 192 herbergi. B2)

Eitt glæsihótelanna við Canal Grande snýr breiðri hlið að skurðinum, svo að tiltölulega auðvelt er að fá herbergi með útsýni yfir umferðina á skurðinum til Salute kirkjunnar á hinum bakkanum. Það er við aðalgötuna Calle larga 22. Marzo, um 300 metra frá suðvesturhorni Markúsartorgs. Farin er Salizzada San Moisè, yfir brúna og til vinstri ómerkta leið framhjá gondólaræðurunum.

Móttakan er í þeim hluta, sem áður var hótelið Europa, en beztu herbergin eru í Regina hlutanum. Niðri eru miklir salir, þar á meðal veitingastaðurinn Tiepolo, sem einnig er morgunverðarstofa hótelsins. Þjónusta er afar góð, svo sem hæfir stíl og verði staðarins.

Herbergi 456 er stórt og myndarlegt, vandað og virðulegt að öllum búnaði. Ljósgrænir veggir kalla á stærri málverk. Um tvær dyr er gengið út á stórar einkasvalir með einstæðu útsýni yfir Canal Grande. Húsbúnaður er forn og fagur. Öll þægindi eru á fullflísuðu baði. Þetta er lúxus-herbergi.

Fenice et des Artistes

(Campiello de la Fenice, San Marco 1936. Sími: 523 2333. Fax: 520 3721. Verð: L.250000 (10574 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 65 herbergi. B2)

Vel þekkt, samnefnt óperuhúsi borgarinnar, sem er við hliðina, um 500 metra frá Markúsartorgi. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins er farin Salizzada San Moisè og áfram Calle larga 22. Marzo, þaðan sem beygt er til hægri eftir sundinu Calle delle Veste inn á Campo San Fantin framan við leikhúsið. Farið er hægra megin við leikhúsið til annars torgs, þar sem hótelið er.

Móttakan er í eins konar garðhúsi milli tveggja húsa hótelsins. Ekki er lyfta í eldra húsinu, en stigi og gangar eru teppalagðir og skreyttir gömlum munum. Starfsfólki er frekar ókunnugt um gang mála úti í bæ.

Herbergi 312 er meðalstórt og hlýlegt, snyrtilega innréttað fornum húsbúnaði, sjónvarpi og síma, og grænum litum í veggfóðri, ofnum, teppi og lofti. Glugginn snýr að smágarði. Fullflísað baðherbergi er vel búið og rúmgott, með setubaðkeri.

Flora

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2283a. Sími: 520 5844. Fax: 522 8217. Verð: L.210000 (8883 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 44 herbergi. B2)

Gamalfínt hótel og ekki dýrt, vel í sveit sett við aðalgötu í nágrenni Markúsartorgs, um 400 metra frá suðvesturhorni torgsins. Farin er Salizzada San Moisè, yfir brú og áfram eftir Calle larga 22. Marzo, þar sem beygt er til vinstri inn í hliðarsund, sem er hið þriðja í röðinni frá hinum enda götunnar. Hótelið er greinilega merkt við innganginn í sundið.

Bak við Art Nouveau inngang er allt í leðri og eðalviði. Virðulegur hótelstigi liggur upp á efri hæðir, skreyttur speglum og veggtjöldum, sem einkenna hótelið. Starfslið kann vel til verka og er einkar þægilegt og kurteist. Allir, sem ekki eru ávarpaðir “professore”, eru ávarpaðir “dottore”.

Herbergi 2 er gamalt og lúið, hreint og gott, búið fornum húsgögnum, sjónvarpi, síma og hárþurrku. Gluggar snúa út að nostursömum garði að baki anddyris. Fullflísað og nýtízkulegt baðherbergi er afar vel búið.

Marconi

(Riva del Vin, San Polo 729. Sími: 522 2068. Fax: 522 9700. Verð: L.283000 (11970 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 26 herbergi. B1)

Skemmtilegt og vel staðsett á bakka Canal Grande, nokkrum skrefum frá Rialto-brú. Frá Rialto bátastöð er farið yfir brúna og beygt til vinstri eftir bakkanum Riva del Vin.

Að baki inngangs er lítil og snyrtileg móttaka með hæfu starfsliði. Flóknir stigar liggja upp á hæðirnar, langir gangar og síðan aftur stigi niður í morgunverðarsal með hlaðborði að norður-evrópskum hætti.

Herbergi 11 er stórt og vel búið fornum húsgögnum, sjónvarpi og síma, hárþurrku og vínskáp, gólfteppi á terrazzo-gólfi og sérkennilega ljótum glerljósakrónum í svifstíl á veggjum. Burðarbitar sjást í lofti. Útsýni er aðeins út í næsta vegg. Fullflísað baðherbergi er stórt og nýtízkulegt, með hitagrind fyrir handklæði.

Monaco e Grand Canal

(Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1325. Sími: 520 0211. Fax: 520 0501. Verð: L.360000 (15227 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 70 herbergi. B2)

Öndvegishótel með breiðri framhlið og frábæru útsýni yfir Canal Grande að Santa Maria della Salute, óvenjulega vel í sveit sett um 100 metra frá Markúsartorgi. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins eru farin nokkur skref eftir Salizzada San Moisè og beygt til vinstri inn í Calle Vallaresso, þar sem hótelið er hægra megin sundsins úti á skurðbakka.

Hótelið hefur þann kost umfram flest önnur, að meirihluti herbergjanna snýr út að breiðum og fjölförnum skurðinum. Starfsfólk er einkar þægilegt.

Herbergi 306 er afar vel búið vönduðum og fornlegum húsgögnum úr renndum eðalviði, handmáluðum fataskáp og virðulegu skrifpúlti, sjónvarpi og síma. Fullflísað baðherbergi er nýtízkulegt og vel búið. Glugginn snýr beint að Canal Grande.

Paganelli

(Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4182. Sími: 522 4324. Fax: 523 9267. Verð: L.160000 (6768 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 22 herbergi. B2)

Afar hagstætt hótel á breiða gönguferðabakkanum andspænis lóninu um 300 metra frá hertogahöllinni. Bátastöðin San Zaccaria er beint framan við hótelið, sem er í tveimur aðskildum hlutum. Annar er á sjálfum bakkanum og hinn í sundi þar við hliðina. Móttakan er í fyrrnefnda hlutanum, þar sem herbergin eru heldur dýrari og morgunverðarstofan í hinum síðarnefnda.

Hótelið er afar lítið og þröngt, hreinlegt og þægilegt, án lyftu, rekið af þægilegu starfsfólki, sem reynir ekki að breiða yfir mistök. Morgunmatur er fremur góður, því að ávextir eru á boðstólum.

Herbergi 23 er í hliðarálmunni, afar lítið, búið fornum og samræmdum húsgögnum, þar á meðal handmáluðu skrifpúlti. Beinn sími er á herberginu, en ekki sjónvarp. Fornir burðarbitar í lofti fegra staðinn. Fullflísað baðherbergið er nýtízkulegt og vel búið, þar á meðal hitagrind fyrir handklæði, sem eru óvenju stór.

Sturion

(Calle Sturion, San Polo 679. Sími: 523 6243. Fax: 522 8378. Verð: L.180000 (7614 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 11 herbergi. B1)

Sérkennilegt hótel og skemmtilegt, aðeins 100 metra frá Rialto brú. Frá Rialto bátastöðinni er farið yfir brúna og beygt til vinstri eftir bakkanum Riva del Vin og síðan beygt til hægri inn í portið Calle Sturion, þar sem hótelið er vinstra megin. Þaðan liggur svo ógnarlangur og beinn stigi upp á fimmtu hæð.

Hótel með þessu nafni var rekið í húsinu í fimm aldir, frá lokum 13. aldar til loka 18. aldar, þekkt af málverkum og fornum skjölum. Eftir tveggja alda hlé var síðan opnað hótel aftur, en aðeins á tveimur efstu hæðum hússins. Það er notalegt fjölskyldufyrirtæki með góðri morgunverðarstofu, sem býður útsýni yfir Canal Grande. Tvö herbergjanna snúa þangað líka.

Herbergi 10 er afar sérkennilegt, myndar langan gang, þar sem lítið baðherbergi er fremst, síðan forstofa og gangur með vaski og loks svefnálma í innsta enda. Úr litlum glugga er útsýni yfir húsþök San Polo hverfis. Húsbúnaður er gamaldags, en hreinlegur. Þarna er sjónvarp og sími, vínskápur og hárþurrka.

uýmist að fremur breiðri götunni milli hótels og Accademia eða að óvenjulega stórum bakgarði.

Herbergi 3 er fremur lítið og einfalt, með glugga út að garði, afar hreinlegt og milt í litum, með síma og hárþurrku.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson