Ferðir

London excursions

Ferðir

Greenwich

Greenwich is downriver. It is not only famous for the meridian of zero longitude in geography. It also has woodland surrounding the Royal Observatory, the National Maritime Museum, open 10-17 and the racing quick tea clipper Cutty Sark. The boat trip to Greenwich takes 45 minutes each way.

Kew

Upriver the Kew gardens with the Royal Botanical Gardens are open 10-16/17. They are graceful, covering over 120 hectares with over 25,000 different plants. The boat brings you to Kew in 75 minutes.

Hampton Court

Farther upriver than the Kew gardens, there is the elegant Hampton Court, the palace of Cardinal Wolsey, expropriated by Henry VIII, including a lot of paintings and objects of art now shown to the public and some of the most glorious gardens in the world.

Windsor Castle

Hours: Open 11-16, except Friday 13-16 and Sunday 14-16.

Just beyond Heathrow airport is the small town of Windsor with Windsor Castle, a summer residence of the Queen.

It is the oldest and greatest residential castle in the world, built by William the Conqueror as a circular tower, but added on during the centuries. The most famous part is the St George’s chapel, one of the best examples of English architecture in the 15th C.

The castle houses some collections, open to the public, such as the Queen Mary’s Dolls House and the State Apartments, when the queen is not using them herself.

With children in tow it is now time to visit the Windsor Safari Park.

Windsor Safari Park

An open wildlife park where we can see, partly through closed car windows, some lions, tigers, elephants, zebras, rhinos, camels, monkeys and deer, to name the best known examples. The porpoises and dolphins perform at regular intervals.

Another amusing place for children is on the way back to London. It is Thorpe Park in Staines, just south of the Heathrow airport.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Amsterdam hotels

Ferðir

Agora
Singel 462. Phone: 627 2200. Fax: 627 2200. Price: DFl.190 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 12 rooms. (A2).
An inexpensive hotel well placed on the Singel canal just a few steps off Konningsplein.
The front door is always locked and the guests receive a key. The lounge and breakfast room are tastefully decorated, with a big window to a small garden. Friendly owners. No elevator.
Room no. 27 is rather small, with old-fashioned furniture, including an inlaid writing table. Everything functions well and the shower is unusually powerful.

Ambassade
Herengracht 341. Phone: 626 2333. Fax: 624 5321. Price: DFl.275 ($165) with breakfast. All major cards. 52 rooms. (A2).
Perfectly situated, on a relatively quiet part of the Herengracht canal 400 meters from Dam square and 200 meters from Spui square. The romantic hotel does not have an elevator and is thus not for the handicapped or elderly.
An old grandfather clock in the agreeable lobby gives the tone, continued in antiques of the first floor sitting room. It gives the feeling of a 17th C. home of a rich merchant, full of antique furniture. Part of the aura consists in steep and narrow stairs. Willing and friendly staff toil with the luggage. Guests get keys to the front door.
Room no. 28 is on the third floor. It has the width of a whole canal house and has a marvelous view from three large windows to the canal. It is ample and amongst other things equipped with an old chest of drawers and an old dining room chair. The bathroom is fully tiled and well appointed.

American
Leidsekade 97. Phone: 624 5322. Fax: 625 3236. Price: DFl.475 ($284) with breakfast. All major cards. 188 rooms. (A3).
This delightful, castle-like Art Nouveau hotel is well placed at Leidseplein itself. The city theater is next door and all around are the cafés and restaurants. On the other side of Singelgracht are the world famous museums of Amsterdam and the Concertgebouw. The guests are late risers and breakfast hours take that into account.
This is the traditional home away from home of artists, entertainers and art lovers. It was erected in 1897 in free-rein Art Nouveau or Jugendstil, resembling a Disney castle. It has become famous in the history of architecture and is classified as a protected monument. The interior decoration of Café Americain on the ground floor is famous.
Room no. 416 is on the Singelgracht side and has a beautiful view through massive trees. The room is of medium size, well equipped and has a good bathroom. Livelier rooms overlook Leidseplein and the sidewalk café of the hotel, but then you have to accept the noise, at least when the windows are open. Some of these rooms have balconies and some are round turret rooms.

Amstel
Professor Tulpplein 1. Phone: 622 6060. Fax: 622 5808. Price: DFl.825 ($494) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (C3).
The grand hotel of Amsterdam on the river Amstel. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ascot
Damrak 95. Phone: 626 0066. Fax: 627 0982. Price: DFl.390 ($234) with breakfast. All major cards. 109 rooms. (B1).
A convenient and smart hotel overlooking the Damrak avenue, 50 meters from the Dam itself.
It has excellent furnishings and friendly staff in the lobby. Breakfast was rather badly done and the breakfast room staff not trained at all. The breakfast room itself is attractive, done in a marbled brasserie style.
Room no. 311 is rather big and cozy, furnished with light blue bed covers and curtains and had an exceptional view down to the avenue. The quality bathroom was all in marble.

Avenue
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 27. Phone: 623 8307. Fax: 638 3946. Price: DFl.210 ($126) with breakfast. All major cards. 50 rooms. (B1).
A spotless hotel of small rooms, recently renovated in detail, 500 meters from the central railway station. It is in a brick warehouse, formerly owned by the East India Company.
The breakfast room adjoining the lobby is simple and tasteful, but the tiny bar behind the lobby is rather gloomy.
Room no. 230 is samll, attractively decorated in style. It has too small a wardrobe. The bathroom is small, but practically designed, fully tiled and agreeable. The sound insulation is perfect.

Barbizon Palace
Prins Hendrikkade 59. Phone: 556 4564. Fax: 624 3353. Price: DFl.500 ($299) without breakfast. All major cards. (B1).
Opposite the central railway station. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Canal Crown
Herengracht 519. Phone: 420 0055. Fax: 420 0993. Price: DFl.300 ($180) with breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (B2).
On a traffic artery near Muntplein. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Canal House
Keizersgracht 148. Phone: 622 5182. Fax: 624 1317. Price: DFl.230 ($138) with breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (A1).
A sympathetic and personal hotel of antiques in a few canal-side houses 10 minutes from Dam square. No TV sets are in the hotel and children are not accepted.
The front door of this warm hotel is always locked and guests carry a key to let themselves in. A small lobby, a mirrored bar and a beautiful breakfast room with a piano lounge are on the ground floor. The guest rooms are strewn about the upper floors, mingled with short steps and long corridors, full of antique furniture and dresses.
Room no. 3 is rather small, cozy and quiet, with a view into a well maintained back garden. It has two bare brick walls, spacious cupboards and antique furniture, including a lamp sculpture. The bathroom is fine, well tiled and has an efficient shower cabin.

Citadel
Neuwezijds Voorburgwal 100. Phone: 627 3882. Fax: 627 4684. Price: DFl.200 ($120) with breakfast. All major cards. 38 rooms.
(B1).
Centrally located near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Classic
Gravenstraat 14-16. Phone: 623 3716. Fax: 638 1156. Price: DFl.225 ($135) with breakfast. All major cards. 33 rooms. (B1).
Straight in the center, in a quiet, pedestrian alley behind Nieuwe Kerk, 100 meters from Dam and just a few steps from noisy Damrak. It has modern furnishings of a jenever distillery from 1880 at the side of the Drie Fleschjes “proeflookal”.
Everything is small here except the guest rooms. The ground floor is modern, with a small lobby including a bar corner, opening into the breakfast room. You cannot hear the city noise in here. But acoustics on the floors are a problem.
Room no. 110 is rather big and had windows in two directions. It has solid and tasteful cane furniture. The bathroom is fully tiled.

Dikker en Thijs
Prinsengracht 444. Phone: 626 7721. Fax: 625 8986. Price: DFl.375 ($225) with breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (A2).
A small hotel in an Art Decco building straight on the pedestrian shopping street Leidsestraat, on the corner of Prinsengracht canal, 100 meters from lively Leidseplein. It is above the famous Dikker en Thijs confectionery shop. The well-known Prinsenkelder restaurant is in the cellar.
The lobby is just a little nook behind the shop, entered from Prinsengracht. Opposite the lobby Café du Centre doubles as a breakfast room. A little foyer fronts four rooms on each floor, enhancing the atmosphere of a private house. The best rooms are high up on the canal side.
Room no. 504 is modern in style and had a bowl of fresh fruit. The white, plastic furniture gave a cold impression. Two armchairs are at an outsize window opening out to a tiny balcony. The double glazing prevents the Leidseplein noise to enter. The bathroom is fully tiled, well furnished, also with a large outside window.

Doelen
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 24. Phone: 622 0722. Fax: 622 1084. Price: DFl.375 ($225) with breakfast. All major cards. 85 rooms. (B2).
An old and an old-fashioned hotel at an imposing and a central location at the confluence of river Amstel and canal Kloveniersburgwal, 200 meters from Muntplein and 300 meters from Rembrandtsplein. It is long and narrow, squeezed between the canal and the street.
In the narrow northern end this faded hotel has probably the best known hotel and piano bar in town. Half the rooms look out to the canal and those are preferable to the other half. The stairs are of marble and the candelabras of copper. Try to get rooms with an Amstel view.
Room no. 218 is spacious, well equipped in an old-fashioned and an impersonal way. It has two big windows and a balcony overlooking the Amstel river.

Estheréa
Singel 305. Phone: 624 5146. Fax: 623 9001. Price: DFl.355 ($213) with breakfast. All major cards. 75 rooms. (A2).
Centrally located a few steps from the historical museum. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Europe
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2. Phone: 623 4836. Fax: 624 2962. Price: DFl.610 ($365) with breakfast. All major cards. 100 rooms. (B2).
This fine hotel in town has an excellent location sitting on the confluence of Amstel river and Rokin and Singel canals, facing Muntplein, 600 meters from Dam and 300 meters from Rembrandtsplein. The hotel was built in 1896 and resembles a giant, floating cake. The illuminated basement kitchen evokes the interest of passers-by, as the chefs seem to work underwater.
This old hotel of nobility is venerable without being snotty. It has been renovated from top to bottom. In the technical respect it is on par with hotels that have been built recently. Personal service is better than it is at similarly priced chain hotels. Guests are quickly remembered by name. It takes no time to get whatever you want, a midnight snack or a rented car.
Room no. 316 is exactly as the public rooms, decorated in white and a soft, greenish blue in a French style, with matching period furniture. It is immense and has a window that can be completely opened for an excellent view directly to Muntplein and the tourist boat traffic on the Amstel. The bathroom is laid in marble, well equipped with large towels and bathrobes.

Grand
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197. Phone: 555 3111. Fax: 555 3222. Price: DFl.625 ($374) without breakfast. All major cards. 155 rooms. (B2).
A recent hotel in a historic building in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Krasnapolsky
Dam 9. Phone: 554 9111. Fax: 622 8607. Price: DFl.475 ($284) with breakfast. All major cards. 4213 rooms. (B2).
One of the landmarks of Amsterdam, a hotel palace opposite the Royal Palace at Dam square. The hotel has been here since 1866 and has in recent years expanded into neighboring houses. This location is as central as possible. Short distances to all directions in the center.
Guests breakfast in a famous Belle Epoque winter garden, Wintertuin. It can be difficult to find one’s way in the hotel. Corridors and elevators are strewn around. It is wise to try to get a room in the oldest part, with a view over the square to the Koninklijk Paleis. The outfit of those rooms has been renovated.
Room no. 2032 has the expected view to the Dam, where happenings of entertainers, religious groups and protesters enliven the view from morning to night. This is a perfect observation point. The room is daringly designed with colors in black, white and silver in dramatic combinations. Everything functions perfectly in the room and the bathroom.

Marriott
Stadhouderskade 21. Phone: 607 5555. Fax: 607 5511. Price: DFl.460 ($275) with breakfast. All major cards. 392 rooms. (A3).
The top chain hotel stands opposite Leidseplein on the other side of Singelgracht, 200 meters away, and has a good view from the front side over the city center.
The lobby is busy as a railway station. Guests are coming and leaving all the time. It is more quiet behind the lobby, in the peaceful hotel bar of several levels, decorated in a library theme. A disco is downstairs, Windjammer Club.
Room no. 307 has a view to Leidseplein. It is spacious, equipped with heavy furniture, matching in style with the colorful curtains and courageous wallpaper. Strangely the well appointed bathroom is wallpapered, not tiled.

Mercure Arthur Frommer
Noorderstrat 46. Phone: 622 0328. Fax: 620 3208. Price: DFl.255 ($153) with breakfast. All major cards. 90 rooms. (B3).
A colorful hotel 500 meters from Rembrandstplein, designed in an 18th C. housing development for thirteen weavers.
There is no room service in this otherwise winsome hotel and the basement breakfast room is rather uninviting.
Room no. 214 has eccentric furniture, including carved armchairs and a rocking chair, thick bedspreads and a small bathroom with a sunken shower. The furniture is starting to fade a little.

Owl
Roemer Visscherstraat 1. Phone: 618 9484. Fax: 618 9441. Price: DFl.190 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 34 rooms. (A3).
A cheap and quiet hotel in a small street of affordable hotels behind the Marriott, 300 meters from Leidseplein, near the main museums, offering warm welcome to travelers.
It has friendly staff and a nicely decorated breakfast room and a smart bar in the basement. A beautiful garden is in the back.
Room no. 444 looks out to the back garden. It is small, pleasantly furnished and has a fully tiled bathroom, but is not soundproof enough.

Parkzicht
Roemer Visscherstraat 33. Phone: 618 1954. Price: DFl.150 ($90) with breakfast. All major cards. 14 rooms. (A3).
A small and cozy hotel.
Some of the rooms overlook Vondelpark.
Room no. 5 is appointed with old furniture in good condition. The bathroom is satisfactory.

Port van Cleve
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178. Phone: 624 4860. Fax: 622 0240. Price: DFl.325 ($195) with breakfast. All major cards. 99 rooms. (B1).
Centrally located behind the royal palace, 100 meters from the Dam, alongside the former central post office that has been transformed into a mall of boutiques, Magna Plaza.
This small and comfortable hotel has friendly staff and one of the best known traditional Dutch restaurants in Amsterdam, the Poort. Ask for a renovated room.
Room no. 518 is one of the renovated ones and overlooks nearby rooftops. It is big and stylish, with a fully tiled and well equipped bathroom.

Pulitzer
Prinsengracht 323. Phone: 523 5235. Fax: 627 6753. Price: DFl.500 ($299) with breakfast. All major cards. 230 rooms. (A2).
About 700 meters from Dam, occupying a whole block of houses between Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, most rooms facing Prinsengracht. The lobby is on that side but from the other side you enter the hotel bar and restaurant Goedsbloem. On the outside there is little indication that this is an hotel or rather a travel sanctuary inside.
When indoors, the lobby looks smallish and unpretentious and the staff are pleasant and relaxed. All the hotel is furnished with exquisite taste in modern style in seventeen adjoining houses. Most of them are from the early 17th C. and some from around 1600. The hotel is full of corridors and small stairs between the individual houses and there is no elevator.
Room no. 419 is unusually aesthetic, with all modern comforts under the bare beams of the old structure, extending to the width of a canal house, looking out to Prinsengracht. Brick and beams are more prominent in some other rooms. Sunny and harmonious colors of the decorations accent the summer feeling. Everything is comfortable and solid in the room and bathroom.

Rembrandt
Herengracht 255. Phone: 622 1727. Fax: 625 0630. Price: DFl.300 ($180) with breakfast. All major cards. 111 rooms. (A2).
Perfectly situated 400 meters from Dam, in a big house facing Herengracht canal and three small houses facing Singel canal.
The lobby is small and modest, but the rooms are stylish and enjoyable, particularly up in the attic where the structural beams are much in evidence.
Room no. 407 is spacious and bright. The beams dominated the decoration. The fixtures of the room and bathroom are solid. And it was an extra convenience to have an electric trouser press.

Renaissance
Kattengat 1. Phone: 621 2223. Fax: 627 5245. Price: DFl.395 ($237) with breakfast. All major cards. 425 rooms. (B1).
Very central, on the corner of Spui and Kattengat, 300 meters from the central railway station, in an area with many restaurants and some new hotels. It is built with style and personality in concert with the city environment protection authorities. Thirteen houses from the 17th C. were incorporated into a new building designed with traditional gables.
A pedestrian subway connects the hotel with its conference facilities in the Ronde Luterse Kerk, a former, circular Lutheran church. The hotel is a world in itself, with shops and restaurants, and some commotion in the lobby. A well-known disco is in the hotel, Boston Club. It also spawned some new restaurants and bars in the formerly run-down neighborhood of storehouses.
Room no. 806 is commodious, well furnished and comfortable. It has a thick, red carpet. All the furniture matches in style. The bathroom is fully tiled and perfectly fitted. Other rooms have good outside views.

Rho
Nes 11. Phone: 620 7371. Fax: 620 7826. Price: DFl.200 ($120) with breakfast. All major cards. 105 rooms. (B2).
A comfortable hotel built into an old brewery from 1908, a few steps off the Dam square, in a pedestrian alley, offering value for money and quiet abodes right in the center of Amsterdam.
The vaulted lobby, Art Nouveau in style, is spacious and airy, the most attractive element of the hotel.
The rooms are rather small but well furnished in modern business style and have all the usual conveniences, including a coffee set. The bathroom is fully tiled.

Roode Leeuw
Damrak 93-94. Phone: 555 0666. Fax: 620 4716. Price: DFl.295 ($177) with breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms. (B1).
A small hotel with a good staff above a restaurant with the same name right on the Damrak avenue just a few steps from Dam square, as central a location as possible in Amsterdam.
The lobby is small and the rooms are of different sizes. The heavily decorated ground-floor restaurant with woodcarvings in the ceiling, offering traditional Dutch specialities at lunch and dinner, also serves as a breakfast room. A street-front café adjoining the restaurant offers a convenient observation point of the heavily pedestrian Damrak.
Room no. 102 is large, with almost an empty look in spite of sporting an extra sofa and two easy-chairs and an ample writing-desk. It has two large windows opening out to the Damrak, but is quiet when the windows are closed. The furniture is modern and straightforward. The bathroom is well and simply equipped, with a linoleum floor and papered walls.

Victoria
Damrak 1. Phone: 623 4255. Fax: 625 2997. Price: DFl.410 ($246) with breakfast. All major cards. 305 rooms. (B1).
A solid and almost staid Neo-Classical hotel at the northern end of Damrak, opposite the central railway station. This is a traditional first class railway hotel that has been renovated and expanded into new buildings.
The public rooms are gracefully decorated in pine and paintings. The hotel also boasts of a pool.
Room no. 411 is spacious and a little bare, as the furniture does not fill it up properly. A view to the station through two windows, but traffic din does not reach the room. The bathroom has good fixtures.

Vondel
Vondelstraat 28. Phone: 612 0120. Price: DFl.275 ($165) with breakfast. All major cards. 28 rooms. (A3).
Just behind Marriott hotel, 200 meters from Leidseplein, a snug hotel with friendly staff.
There is no elevator.
Room no. 5 is big, has a sitting area and extra room for a third bed. The furniture is old and clean and the bathroom is tiled.
1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

New York walks

Ferðir

Circle Line

Pier 83 / West 43rd Street. Phone: 563 3200. (A4).

The most interesting and comfortable sightseeing trip is to travel by boat around the island, embarking from Pier 83 at the end of West 43rd Street. We choose a bright day, preferably in the morning, as the air tends to get misty in the afternoon. We arrive early enough to get a seat on the port side of the boat, the left side, as it travels counter-clockwise around Manhattan.

We nestle down in a comfortable chair and sip our favorite drink while we see the city glide past. This is the best way to learn the relative position of the main towers and districts of Manhattan. The round trip takes three hours.

Island Helicopter

1 Penn Plaza / 7th Avenue / West 32nd. Phone: 683 4575. (B5).

A modern and a quick way to have a look around Manhattan is to take a chopper ride from Penn Plaza at Penn Railway Station. We can choose flights of different duration, from seven minutes. An half-an-hour trip along the whole length of the island and to the Statue of Liberty costs $100. This trip should only be undertaken on a bright day, preferably on a clear morning.

Downtown

Often called Financial District, the southern end of Manhattan, where the city was founded by Dutch settlers. Their defensive wall against Indians was at the present Wall Street. Now the district is a pile of bank towers of steel and glass, the largest banking district in the world. Until recently this was like a graveyard during weekends and nights.

Now a popular tourist attraction has been built up at South Street Seaport where an old fishing harbor and its warehouses have been converted into boutiques, cafés and restaurants. On the eastern shore new housing development has injected new life into the area around World Trade Center, Downtown is therefore gradually coming to life again.

Very few are left of old buildings but those who survive are now the main attraction, much more beautiful than most of the modern towers. One thing that makes Downtown more likable than many other parts of town is the old chaos of irregular streets with real names instead of the organized numbers that pass as the names of the greater part of Manhattan streets.

We start our walk at the southern tower of World Trade Center, WTC no. 2 and first take the express elevator to the 107th floor, then an escalator to the roof on the 110th floor.

World Trade Center

2 World Trade Center. (C10).

From the top of World Trade Center we have an excellent view to the banking towers of the Downtown area of Manhattan, the Financial District. We also have a view to the Statue of Liberty and the Verrazano bridge in the south and to the Midtown office towers in the north.

The building of the towers was finished in 1974. At that time they were for a while the tallest buildings in the world, eight floors higher than Empire State. They are simple in appearance and stand apart from other Downtown towers.

The buildings of World Trade Center surround a central and a connecting area of 60 shops, restaurants, banks and other services, including an outlet of TKTS, which sells theater tickets at half price on performance day. There are famous sculptures by Koening, Rosati and Nagare on the square.

We return down to earth and exit into Liberty Street.

Liberty Street
Liberty Street. (C10).

The street connects World Trade Center and the recent developments in World Financial Center and Battery Park City with the main Downtown area. It ends in the west at the World Financial Center. An overpass links World Financial Center with the American Stock Exchange on the other side of Liberty Street. Another overpass links World Financial Center with World Trade Center.

We walk into the World Financial Center.

World Financial Center

(B10).

The four towers of World Financial Center house the headquarters of some of the world’s most important financial companies. At the heart of it is the beautiful and imposing Winter Garden with a 36 meter high roof of glass and steel, lined by boutiques and restaurants, opening to an esplanade and a marina on Hudson River.

The garden is often used for artistic events, free of charge. The audience then sits on the impressive marble staircase.
The World Financial Center is a part of the Battery Park City.

Battery Park City

(B10).

A recent development that is mainly residential and is supposed to house more than 25,000 people when it is finished, injecting human life into the Downtown area. It offers a fine walk on an esplanade that runs along Hudson River and has a good view to the Statue of Liberty. The area is on land that has been reclaimed from the river.

We return from Battery Park City and World Financial Center to Liberty Street which we follow to Broadway where we turn left. On the way we pass the red cube by Isamu Noguchi in front of the Marine Midland bank. On Broadway we soon arrive at St Paul’s on our left

St. Paul‘s Chapel

Broadway. (C10).

The oldest church in New York, built 1764-1766 in Georgian style, probably the most beautiful church of the city, inside as outside. Its beautifully illuminated nave is often used for free concerts.

A little farther on Broadway we arrive at Woolworth on the left side.

Woolworth

233 Broadway. (C10).

A Neo-Gothic tower inside as outside, built in 1913 as the tallest building in the world. We enter the lobby to have a look at the works of art on the walls and in the ceiling.

We cross the garden opposite Woolworth. City Hall is in the middle of the garden.

City Hall

City Hall Park / Broadway. (C9).

Probably the smallest city hall in the United States, built in 1812 in an Early American style resembling the French Renaissance Chateau style. When it was built it was so far out of town that the north side was not laid in marble as the other sides until 1954. No one was expected to see it from that side.

The small and peaceful garden in front of City Hall has a fountain by Delacorte. It was formerly the place for public hangings, nowadays for some official proclamations.

We return on Broadway to the south, pass Liberty Street and soon have the Trinity Church on our right side.

Trinity Church

Broadway / Wall Street. (C10).

A Neo-Gothic church from 1846, built of red sandstone. It stands in a peaceful, grass-grown graveyard and fronts the end of Wall Street like a dwarf among the giants. It still attracts attention, not only as a symbolic guardian of Wall Street but also because of the long spire on the massive tower.

We walk into Wall Street and do not forget to look back at the church.

Wall Street

Wall Street. (C10).

The main banking canyon of the world. At lunchtime the whole street is so crowded that it can be difficult to walk. The street winds slightly just as the defensive wall that the Dutch erected here against the Indians. There are banks in all the towers.

When we come to Broad Street we turn right and see the New York Stock Exchange on our right.

New York Stock Exchange

20 Broad Street / Wall Street. (C10).

Built in 1903 in Neo-Classical temple style. We can enter it and go up to a balcony to observe the commotion of the exchange floor.

A guide tries to explain to us how the exchange works. We look in awe at the mad shouting and waving of 3000 brokers on 900 square meters, strewn with paper. They look at giant screens and hammer the computer keyboards, which are on 16 transaction islands, 60 on each island, 960 in toto.

All transactions are immediately shown on the walls, not only these transactions but also those in London and Tokyo.

We return out to Broad Street, go to Wall Street, cross it and continue into Nassau Street past Federal Hall on our right and go to the plaza in front of the Chase Manhattan bank.

Chase Manhattan

Nassau Street / Liberty Street. (C10).

A famous sculpture by Dubuffet is on the plaza, four trees in black and white. There is also a cellar garden of stone and water by Isamu Noguchi.

We return on Nassau Street to Wall Street, turn right to Trinity Church, turn left on Broadway and walk to Bowling Green.

Bowling Green

Bowling Green / Broadway. (C10).

A small garden, the oldest public part in New York, surrounded by an iron fence from 1771.

The United States Custom House is at the far end of the garden.

Custom House

Bowling Green / Broadway. (C11).

A Beaux Arts building from 1907, a fine granite palace, now converted into the National Museum of the American Indian.

Behind Custom House we arrive at Battery Park.

Battery Park

(C11).

The southernmost tip of Manhattan, named in memory of a gun battery defending the city during the Civil War. The park is a relaxed area for strolling, popular at lunchtime when bankers come and eat out of paper bags.

Ferries leave Battery Park to cross Hudson and East Rivers. One ferry goes to the Statue of Liberty and another to Ellis Island. We take that ferry first.

Ellis Island

An island on the western side of Hudson River, formerly the immigration office of the United States. Everyone who fled the wars and deprivations of Europe went through these buildings to get a permit to settle in the United States haven. It was closed down in 1954 and is now an immigration museum with guided tours.

We return on the ferry to Battery Park to take another ferry to the Statue of Liberty on Liberty Island.

Statue of Liberty

Bartholdi designed it, the citizens of France paid for it in a collection and gave it to the United States in memory of the victory in the Independence War, in which the French supported the Americans. The statue has ever since been the national symbol of the United States and of freedom in general, a welcome sight for immigrants passing by on their way to Ellis Island.

The statue is 120 meters in height and weighs 225 tons. It is difficult to walk up the stairs and advisable to take the elevator up he 22 floors to the crown of the Goddess of Freedom. This is a pilgrimage that all true Americans must make once in their life just as Muslims make to Mecca.

The ferry from Battery Park to Staten Island also sails past Liberty Island.

We return to Battery Park. From the park we enter Water Street and turn left into Broad Street, where we find Fraunces Tavern on the corner of Pearl Street.

Fraunces Tavern

Pearl Street / Broad Street. (C11).

The brick building from 1719 is best known for being the restaurant where George Washington bid farewell to his officers at the end of the Civil War. The facade is original and the interior from 1927. The food at the restaurant is almost as old. There is also a museum in the house.

We return on Broad Street to Water Street and turn left.

Water Street

Water Street. (C10).

Once the waterfront of the city. On our right we pass Jeannette Park, also called Vietnam Veterans Plaza, an ugly place. The bank towers are on both sides of the street, each in its own style, some of them trying to look human on the ground floor.

We continue on Water Street for about 800 meters, turn right into Fulton Street. On the corner there is Cannon’s Walk.

Cannon’s Walk

(D10).

A 19th C. block with a lively market, cafés and shops.

We continue on Fulton Street and arrive on our left at Schermerhorn Row, between Front Street and South Street.

Schermerhorn Row

South Street Seaport. (D10).

A block of original Georgian warehouses, built 1811-1813, with wrought-iron ground floor fronts that were later added. It houses well-known shops and restaurants. The quaintest shop is the Brookstone ironmonger opposite the Gianni’s sidewalk café.

On the other side of South Street we come to the center of South Street Seaport, Pier 17.

South Street Seaport

South Street Seaport. (D10).

The old piers have been converted into an open-air maritime museum. It includes the tea clipper Peking, the Ambrose rig and a floating lighthouse. The warehouse on Pier 17 has been converted into a mall of boutiques for tourists, offering everything from fashions to whale hunting gear. It has some restaurants with a good view to Brooklyn Bridge and Brooklyn.

This is a kind of a theme park for tourists and a successful one. It shows how wise it is to protect old buildings and convert them into centers of attractions, as they are almost invariably more beautiful than recent buildings. South Street Seaport is now one of the landmarks of the city.

Alongside the Seaport on this side of South Street we arrive at the Fulton Fish Market.

Fulton Market

(D10).

The wholesale fish market is active in the early morning hours, especially after 06 in the morning. During the day the market building changes into a mall of small seafood shops.

We continue on South Street and turn left into Peck Slip.

Peck Slip

(D10).

An illusory mural of the Brooklyn Bridge covers one of the house fronts on the right side of the street.

Behind the mural we can see the pillars of Brooklyn Bridge.

Brooklyn Bridge

(D10).

The most beautiful bridge in Manhattan, built in 1883 and considered at that time to be an engineering feat, the first suspension bridge of steel wires and the longest bridge in the world at that time, with a span of 486 meters. There are excellent views from the elevated walkway over the motor traffic on the bridge.

From the bridge there is a short way on Pearl Street and its continuation in St James Place to Chatham Square on the Bowery, the starting point of a walk through the ethnic and exotic districts of lower Manhattan.

Exotica

The ethnic part of lower Manhattan is mainly on the east side. From the south it starts with Chinatown. Then comes Little Italy with the Jewish Loiasada to the east, and finally the formerly Polish and Ukrainian East Village to the northeast, now the center of punk. Chinatown and Little Italy have more or less retained their ethnic character but Loiasada has mostly lost it.

We start at Chatham Square where Bowery begins.

Bowery

Bowery. (D9).

The southern end of Skid Row, the refuge of drunks and hobos, stretching on Bowery from Chatham Square to 4th Street. The vagabonds are harmless but in some places you have to step over them.

We walk from Chatham Square into Mott Street. We are in Chinatown.

Chinatown

The district adjoining Downtown to the north and TriBeCa to the east, originally delimited by Bowery, Mulberry, Worth and Canal Streets but has now overflowed into the next streets. It heart is in Mott and Pell Streets. It looks Chinese. Posters are in Chinese letters and the pay phones have pagoda roofs. Seven newspapers in Chinese are sold on street corners.

The 150 restaurants are the main attraction of the district. They are among the most economical ones in Manhattan and some of them are very good. A pleasant Eastern scent emanates from the restaurants and food shops into the streets. The main action is on Sunday when Chinese from other districts and the suburbs arrive to shop and to dine out.

It is a poor district. People bet in casinos and sweat in the garment industry. Criminal gangs collect protection money from owners of shops and restaurants. But tourists are not aware of this shady side of Chinatown.

We walk along Mott Street.

Mott Street

Mott Street. (D9).

A street of Chinese signs and telephone pagodas, Eastern fragrances and lots of restaurants with a faraway cuisine.
We take a good time and have a look into side streets such as Pell and Bayard, have a Chinese lunch and enjoy being for a while on a different continent.

When we arrive at Canal Street we turn left one block and then right into Mulberry Street, the axis of Little Italy.

Little Italy

The district of immigrants from Sicily and Napoli is north from Chinatown, east from SoHo, south from Greenwich Village and west from Loiasada. It borders on Canal Street, Houston Street, Lafayette Street and Bowery. The central axis is Mulberry Street, which runs through the whole length of it. The Chinese have recently invaded the district from the south.

On Sunday Italians from other districts and the suburbs come here to buy pasta and salami and to dine in Italian restaurants. That day the merchants carry their goods out to the pavement and the restaurateurs their tables and chairs. Then the districts looks distinctively Italian. The espresso flavor wafts through the streets.

The main events are two week-long festivals, the St. Antonio festival in June and the St. Gennaro festival in September. Then Little Italy changes into a festival park.

We are in Mulberry Street.

Mulberry Street

(C8).

A long and narrow street that could have been imported wholesale from Palermo or Napoli. There are lots of small shops selling pasta and Italian specialties. People sit in sidewalk cafés and sip a glass of red wine or the excellent espresso coffee, waiting for time to pass until a proper lunch hour has arrived.

We continue on Mulberry Street to Houston Street, “howston” in Manhattanese, where we turn right. It is a lively street of junk shops, the border of Little Italy and Loiasada on the south and East Village on the north. We continue on Houston Street to Orchard Street where we turn right again.

Loiasada

Lower East Side is the full name of the district to the east of Little Italy and south of East Village. It reaches from Bowery in the west to East River in the east, Canal Street in the south and Houston Street in the north.

In the beginning of the 19th C. this was the Jewish ghetto and one of the poorest districts in New York, more densely populated than Calcutta. It has fostered many intellectuals and merchants. Most of the Jews have moved away and have left behind derelict synagogues. Black people have moved in, Chinese and mainly Puerto Ricans, so this is still a very poor district.

Jews still have shops here in Orchard Street or come here on Sunday to shop cheaply and to dine in kosher way. Prices are often very competitive in Orchard Street. It resembles an Eastern Bazaar. People haggle loudly and gesticulate. Pickpockets have a field day. Otherwise the district is quite safe, if people avoid going east of Essex Street.

We are in Orchard Street.

Orchard Street

(D8).

A kind of an Eastern bazaar or souk with lots of loud haggling and gesticulating. There are merchants in an Jewish Orthodox attire. Citizens of New York come here for the good prices.

If we return to Houston Street, turn left and then right into Bowery, we are entering East Village.

East Village

To the east of Greenwich Village, bordering on Broadway to the west, Houston Street to the south, East River to the east and 14th Street to the north. It is an old immigrant district of Ukrainians and Poles and has recently been converted into the punk district of Manhattan.

The most recent development is the moving in of artists from TriBeCa who are fleeing the rising rents. They will probably clean up East Village as they did before in SoHo and TriBeCa. The effect can be seen in the emergence of art galleries and rising rents in the very last years.

The punk music is mainly on Astor Place and St. Mark’s Place. The uniform is multicolor hair, leather clothes and steel chains. And of course they attract curious tourists. The punk shops are in the so-called NoHo district on the southern Broadway from 10th Street to Houston Street.

We can walk on Bowery to Astor Place and then follow 8th Street west to Greenwich Village, where we shall take another walk.

Greenwich Village

North of SoHo and west of East Village, the most European part of Manhattan, an old university and cultural district around Washington Square. It reaches from Houston Street north to 14th Street and from Broadway west to Hudson River. It is a world in itself, a district of low-rise residential buildings on winding streets, which are difficult to find, just as in Europe.

The City University is here, the world center of jazz, and the Manhattan center of experimental theater, often called Off Broadway. It is the most relaxed district in Manhattan. The bohemians started to move here in the Thirties and in force after World War II, when Greenwich Village became a kind of an American Left Bank of the Seine.

Later the gays came and the pop generation. The gays are mainly in the western part, west of 7th Avenue to Hudson River. Punk moved on to East Village and avant-garde art to SoHo, leaving Greenwich Village as a district of middle-aged flower people, almost an establishment. The villagers are socially conscious and stick together when needed.

Off Broadway theater is concentrated in Greenwich Village.

Off Broadway

Greenwich Village.

Modern theater, experimental and avant-garde, is less a hallmark of Broadway than of the so-called Off Broadway, which is a category of about 200 theaters all over New York, but mainly concentrated in Greenwich Village. New works are tried out there and in London before the successful ones move to Broadway. This change has occurred slowly since the end of World War II.

The weeklies New York and Village Voice show the offerings of Off Broadway. The problem is that Off Broadway has become such a classical theater that a new term has arisen: Off Off Broadway. That is where the action is supposed to be nowadays.

We start our village walk at Washington Square.

Washington Square

(C7).

The Sunday Room of Greenwich Village, a kind of St. Germain des Prés. Villagers congregate there to buy drugs, play chess, show off in roller-coasting, listen to traveling musicians and discuss how to defend Greenwich Village against lunatic city authorities who want to tear down anything of age and value. It gets livelier in the evening.

It is the largest park on southern Manhattan. Some years ago it had become intolerable due to loud radios. The introduction of pocket discos with earphones has saved the day, so that we can play a game of chess in peace and quiet.

Behind the northern side of the square there are two quaint alleys, Washington Mews and MacDougal Alley.

MacDougal Alley

(C7).

Formerly the entrance to the stables of the important people who lived in the Washington Square mansions, now the flats of intellectuals who have complete peace there in the vicinity of the lively square. MacDougal Alley and Washington Mews retain the atmosphere of village streets.

From MacDougal Alley we turn right into MacDougal Street, then left into West 8th Street and again left into Christopher Street. We have a look into West 4th Street before we turn once again left, into Bleecker Street. We are in Jazzland.

Jazzland

The area of jazz clubs and Off Broadway theaters, interesting food and crafts shops, antique dealers and eccentric shops, cafés and restaurants, partly residential and partly commercial. The streets are crooked and intricate, difficult to find. They remind you more of London than New York. This is the most comfortable part of the city, lively here and peaceful there.

On this side or east of Christopher Street is the conventional part of Greenwich Village. The gay district is to the west of Christopher Street. When we arrive into Bleecker Street the street scene gets livelier. In that street and in the side streets of Mac Dougal and Sullivan are the main shops of the area with beautiful displays of fruit and flowers on the sidewalk.

We are passing through an area of jazz holes such as Blue Note, Village Vanguard and Sweet Basil, cellars of folk music such as Folk City and City Limits, some gourmet shops and lots of good restaurants, cafés and bars.

From Bleecker Street we turn left into La Guardia Place, pass West Houston Street and continue south on West Broadway into the district of SoHo, the artists’ town.

Artists’ town

Manhattan’s superiority over other world centers of art centers around the depicting arts, painting and sculpture, etc. where Paris has lost its edge. All artists in such fields want to exhibit in Manhattan and the best market is there. Unknown artists make their breakthrough here and some make it into big money.

The traditional galleries are mainly at 57th Street, but modern art thrives in the galleries of SoHo and TriBeCa. West Broadway and Wooster Street are the main centers of the decorative arts.

We are now in SoHo.

SoHo

The most westerly of the districts that border on Canal Street to the south. It is delimited by Canal Street, 6th Avenue, Houston Street and Broadway. Its neighbor to the north is Greenwich Village. SoHo is a prime example of well-built and decorative industry buildings of wrought iron which were to be torn down in the early Sixties.

Happily it changed instead to a district of artists’ ateliers, galleries, wine bars and restaurants. Affluent artists live there, those who can afford the rising rents. Lately SoHo has also been changing into a district of fashionable shops.

The galleries are the landmark of SoHo. It is the motor and the navel of modern art. Paris has been relegated to second place after this Manhattan district.

We are on West Broadway, the main street of SoHo and TriBeCa.

West Broadway

West Broadway.

The main street of modern art galleries in New York, along with the parallel Wooster Street. The most interesting part is from West Houston Street in the north to Broome Street in the south.

We walk West Broadway to Broome Street, turn left and again left into Wooster Street and then right into West Houston Street and right again into Greene Street.

Greene Street

Greene Street. (C8).

The southern part of Greene Street has beautiful examples of the architecture of the buildings for light industry which characterize the district. The fronts are usually decorated with a giant order of columns. Affluent artists and those who want to be near successful artists have taken over the industry buildings and converted them into comfortable flats.

The fronts are usually made of cast-iron which has been formed into intricate forms, according to whims that were unbridled at the end of the 19th C. The cast-iron freedom was used to mass-produce replicas of different styles and periods, especially Renaissance and Classical. Later firescapes were added.

At the southern end of Mercer Street which runs parallel to Green Street there is the Museum of Holography.

From the southern end of Greene Street we turn right into Canal Street and then left into West Broadway. We have left SoHo and entered TriBeCa.

TriBeCa

The Triangle Below Canal Street is the full name of this district to the north of Downtown, west of Chinatown and south of SoHo. It composes a triangle bordered by Canal Street, West Broadway, Barclay Street and Hudson River. It is sometimes called SoSo, which means South of SoHo, as it is a continuation of that district to the south.

It was a district of well built and decorous warehouses and buildings for light industry. They have a structure of wrought iron. After a long period of disrepair, when this place was forgotten, the rents started to rise in SoHo and artists discovered TriBeCa and moved their ateliers over Canal Street.

They have breathed new life into the district. And the vicious circle has started again, rent is on the rise in TriBeCa and the artists are looking for cheaper accommodation. In the meantime bars, restaurants, discos and fashion shops have sprung up all over the district.

From West Broadway we turn left into White Street.

White Street

(C9).

Some of the best examples of the cast-iron buildings of light industry at the end of the 19th C. are in this street, similar to the buildings in Greene Street.

This is the end of our walk through the districts of modern culture in Manhattan, Greenwich Village, SoHo and TriBeCa.

West Side

This walk through the western part of Mid-Manhattan will cover three main areas, Theater District or Broadway; the fashionable Upper West Side; and Central Park, the lungs of Manhattan.

We will start our walk on Times Square in the Theater District.

Theater District

Sometimes called Broadway, the area between 42nd Street, 59th Street, 6th Avenue and 8th Avenue, crossed by Broadway. In this area around Times Square there are 42 theaters. For a century it has been the center of American theater, with the best actors, directors and critics. Americans come from all corners of the country to enjoy performances on Broadway.

This is the largest theater area in the world, larger than Covent Garden in London. In later years it has ceded first place in innovation to Covent Garden as it can be observed that plays and musicals that become a hit in London are moved to Broadway to cash on their fame. But the professionalism of Broadway remains at its high level.

To see what is on it is best to consult the list in New York magazine. In the center of Father Duffy Square, which really is the northern end of Times Square, there is a ticket office, TKTS, which offers tickets to the present day performances at half price. Often there are large queues outside the office. Inquire at 354 5800. Hotel concierges can fix tickets to everything.

We start our walk on Times Square.

Times Square

(B4).

The center of theater and cinema, sex and drugs, illuminated by neon advertising. Happily the area is less shabby than it was a decade ago. New developments, including large hotels, have contributing in moving the Times Square area into the Midtown mainstream.

We walk north Broadway, first through Father Duffy Square which adjoins Times Square.

Father Duffy Square

(B4).

It really is the northern end of Times Square, with a ticket office, TKTS, which offers tickets to the present day performances at half price. Often there are large queues outside the office. Inquire at 354 5800.

We continue our walk on Broadway.

Broadway

Broadway. (B4).

The Theater District of Manhattan is known by its main street, the Broadway, which cuts diagonally through it. In this area around Times Square there are 42 theaters. For a century it has been the center of American theater, with the best actors, directors and critics. Americans come from all corners of the country to enjoy performances on Broadway.

This is the largest theater area in the world, larger than Covent Garden in London. In later years it has ceded first place in innovation to Covent Garden as it can be observed that plays and musicals that become a hit in London are moved to Broadway to cash on their fame. But the professionalism of Broadway remains at its high level.

To see what is on it is best to consult the list in New York magazine. In the center of Father Duffy Square, which really is the northern end of Times Square, there is a ticket office, TKTS, which offers tickets to the present day performances at half price. Often there are large queues outside the office. Inquire at 354 5800. Hotel concierges can fix tickets to everything.

We continue our walk along Broadway, reaching Carnegie Hall on our right side.

Carnegie Hall

154 West 57th Street / 7th Avenue. Phone: 247 7459. (B3).

Before the arrival of Lincoln Center this was the main venue of classical music in New York, well situated just south of Central Park. Now famous symphony orchestras and famous soloists perform there, both classical music and jazz. The acoustics are excellent in the auditorium for 2,784 people.

We continue on Broadway to Columbus Circle.

Columbus Circus

(B3).

The tourist office of the city is in the Moorish tower on our left side. It has lots of valuable information for travelers.

We continue on Broadway to Lincoln Center.

Lincoln Center

Columbus Avenue betw. 62nd and 65th. Phone: 875 5400. (B3).

The world center of classical music is in the southern end of Upper West Side where a few modern and modernistic palaces surround a fountain square. It was built in 1962-1968 as a kind of a cultural Acropolis or Capitolum in honor of the gods of music, designed by some of the best known architects of America in a refined style of giant column orders.

When we enter the square from Columbus Avenue we have New York State Theater on our left, Avery Fisher Hall on our right and Metropolitan Opera House in front of us. Vivian Beaumont Theater and Alice Tully Hall are behind Avery Fisher Hall. To know what is on at Lincoln Center it is best to consult the lists of the New York magazine.

First we turn our attention to the Metropolitan Opera.

Metropolitan Opera

Lincoln Center. Phone: 362 6000. (B3).

The central point of Lincoln Center, a palace with a giant order of ten stories and five Romanesque arches fronting the square. Inside the windows we see two colorful murals by Marc Chagall, a carpeted lobby and an impressive staircase.

The Met as it is called can seat 3,788 people. It is considered one of the high points in the career of opera singers to perform at the Met. The season lasts from the middle of September to April. At other times of the year other ensembles have access to the palace, including ballet companies like American Ballet Theater and Royal Ballet.

Next we have a look at the New York State Theater.

N. Y. State Theater

Lincoln Center. Phone: 870 5570. (B3).

The home of New York City Ballet and New York City Opera. The ballet reigns in November-February and in April-July, and the opera reigns in July-November. At the front there are four pairs of a giant order of columns on seven floors. Inside there are four floors up to the golden ceiling, all of them with balconies. The palace seats 2,279.

On the other side of Lincoln Center there is the Avery Fisher Hall.

Avery Fisher Hall

Lincoln Center. Phone: 875 5030. (B3).

44 columns surround this symphony palace of 2,742 seats which in the decades leading up to 1992 was rebuilt several times on the inside to reach the desired acoustics. It is the home of the New York Philharmonic which has a season in September-May. In July-August there are inexpensive Mozart concerts and in September the New York film festival is held there.

Leonard Bernstein, Arturo Toscanini and Leopold Stokowski have been the dirigents of the Philharmonic. Now Zubin Mehta is in charge.

Next door to Avery Fisher Hall on its northern side is Alice Tully Hall.

Alice Tully Hall

(B3).

Entered from Broadway this is the main venue of concert music in New York, the home of the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center, seating 1,096. In September it is used for the New York film festival. In summer visiting artists perform at Alice Tully Hall.

Now we say good-by to Broadway and continue our walk on Columbus Avenue, the main street of the Upper West Side.

Upper West Side

North of 59th Street, south of 90th Street and west of Central Park, the residential district no. 2 after Upper East Side, a little less expensive and a little more tasteful. It boasts of the cultural Lincoln Center and the fashionable Columbus Avenue, which have spawned many restaurants and bars.

The inhabitants are generally younger than those on the other side of Central Park. You can even see children here. The night life is lively, especially on Columbus Avenue.

And we continue our walk north along Columbus Avenue.

Columbus Avenue

The newest fashionable street in Manhattan. It has blossomed after the infusion from the recent Lincoln Center, especially the stretch from 69th to 86th Streets. Fashion shops, bars and restaurants have mushroomed. Sidewalk hawkers are everywhere and we pass one market on our way, between 76th and 77th Streets.

We enter the castle on the opposite corner, the American Museum of Natural History.

American Museum of Natural History

Central Park West / 79th Street. Phone: 769 5100. Hours: Open Sunday-Tuesday 10-17:45, Wednesday & Friday-Saturday 10-20:45. (B2).

A large Upper West Side castle facing Central Park with a large museum inside, including a 30 meter long replica of a whale. There are 34,000,000 items in the museum.

From the museum we go on 77th Street to Central Park and soon arrive at the northern end of The Lake.

Central Park

Central Park.

The lungs of Manhattan are the result of a campaign by the author W.C. Bryant, designed by Olmsted and Vaux in 1856. It took 15 years to lay out this enormous park of 840 acres between 5th and 8th Avenues, 59th and 110th Streets. Lakes and hills were built and 100,000 trees were planted.

Its main characteristic is that pedestrian and motorized traffic are separated. We can criss-cross the park without ever crossing a street and the car traffic is mostly underground. The 46 winding paths offer ever-changing vistas. The southern part is the organized and detailed part with small lakes, groves and cliffs. The northern part is more informal and simpler.

Central Park is liveliest on Sunday when many Manhattanites use it as their drawing room. Some go on picnics in the park, others jog or cycle. There are groups in volleyball and baseball. A few compete on rollers, others row in boats. And quite a few sleep with the newspaper over their face. The park is safe in daylight and where the crowds are.

At The Lake we turn north, cross Balcony Bride at the northern end of The Lake and have a good view over the lake, the wooden hills behind it and the Manhattan towers in the background. We soon come to Belvedere Castle and Belvedere Lake on the highest ground in the southern park.

Belvedere Castle

Central Park. (B2).

A small castle in Disney style with a good view to the north over the large baseball fields where many games are going on simultaneously and to the south over the wooden hills of The Ramble.

In the east we see Metropolitan Museum of Art and the obelisk of Cleopatra’s Needle. We walk to the Needle, past sleeping and reading people. Often there are open-air concerts at Cleopatra’s Needle.

Finally we walk around Belvedere Lake and on its southern side we enter The Ramble.

The Ramble

(B2).

The wildest part of the park, with forested hills and cliffs, winding paths in ever-changing directions, and bridges over small streams. This is popular with lovers.

We continue south, cross The Lake on Bow Bridge with a good view, turn left and come to the Bethesda fountain with a sculpture of angels. There is a bandstand and an area for rollers. We make a detour east to Conservatory Pond to see statues of H.C. Andersen, the Ugly Duckling and Alice in Wonderland. Then we go back to the Bethesda fountain and turn south on The Mall.

The Mall

The pedestrian avenue passes a bandstand, then The Dairy, the information center of the park. The old Zoo is there on the left, popular and tired, no competitor to the real Zoo in Bronx. Adjoining it on the north side is a Children’s Zoo.

Opposite the Zoo we turn right off The Mall and take a path to the southern edge of Central Park, where we leave the park opposite 6th Avenue, formally named Avenue of the Americas.

Avenue of the Americas

Some famous towers line the avenue on the right, below the Hilton hotel. They are recessed from the avenue and have nice little plazas in front of them, with fountains and works of art. These are the towers of Equitable Life, Time & Life, Exxon and McGraw & Hill.

Much effort has been put into humanizing this area of steel, glass and concrete. Still the towers look pasteurized and emasculated. Their piazzas do not attract people and lack the spark of life. Better results have been achieved at older towers such as Rockefeller Center and at newer towers such as some of those east of 5th Avenue and in World Financial Center.

We finish this walk on 6th Avenue behind Rockefeller Center.

Midtown

The area between 42th Street, 59th Street, 8th Avenue and East River. A slice of its western side is the Theater District. Midtown is a collection of office towers, fashionable shops, luxury hotels and famous restaurants. These are some of the most expensive square meters in the world, glittering with wealth. This small and busy area can be considered the navel of the world.

The elegant shops of the world, French, Italian, British and American, have outlets on 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the crossroads of Midtown, south of Central Park. There ladies buy for $100 handbags with the large letters: “Gucci”, They pay out of their nose to carry around an advertisement. In return they can show that they can afford $100 for an handbag.

Lately SoHo has been evolving into a district of fashionable shops. Also Columbus Avenue between 69th and 86th Streets. The punk shops are in NoHo in East Village, on the southern Broadway from 10th Street to Houston Street. South Street Seaport has become a shopping center for tourists. Shopping has also moved out to the sidewalks all over town. But Midtown is still supreme.

We start this trip in the southern part, at Empire State Building, preferably in the morning, when the air is likely to be clear. We take two lifts up to the 86th floor and a third one to the 102nd floor.

Empire State

350 5th Avenue / 34th Street. Hours: Open 9:30-23:30. (C5).

Once the tallest building in the world and still one of the tallest. It has often been used as the symbol of New York and also as a good example of the grandiose architecture of skyscrapers.

The view from the top is usually above par in the morning when the sky is more clear than in the afternoon. On a perfect day you can see 70 km in each direction. Another interesting view is after nightfall, when the lights are on in the city.

When leaving Empire State we can either take a taxi or walk the 700 meters to the New York Public Library, also on 5th Avenue.

New York Public Library

5th Avenue / 42nd Street. (C5).

Neo-classical with Corinthian columns, two famous guardian lions and extensive front steps where people sit in groups, observe the pedestrian and motorized commotion and smoke whatever has been bought in Bryant Park behind the library. Impromptu speeches are delivered on the steps in the vein of Speakers’ Corner at Hyde Park in London.

Inside there are 5,5 million copies of books. It is the second largest library in the United States after the Library of Congress in Washington. There are several reading rooms, the main one on the second floor. There are often interesting exhibitions on the ground floor.

We walk around the library into 42nd Street to Bryant Park behind the library.

Bryant Park

42nd Street / 6th Avenue. (C5).

Until recently one of the main centers of soft drugs sales in town, but less so now, as the authorities have made successful efforts to get other people into the park by offering free lunchtime concerts and organizing space for antique booksellers and chess or backgammon players.

We return to 5th Avenue and turn left, walk 500 meters along the avenue and turn left into 47th Street.

Diamond Row

47th Street / betw. 5th & 6th. (C4).

This is the unofficial name of the 47th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues. Most of the shops are jewelers. 80% of the wholesale business in jewels is conducted in this stretch of 100 meters, behind and above the shops. Some of the jewelers have their goods in their pocket and make their transactions in the street, without any paperwork or signatures.

We return to 5th Avenue, turn left a walk a short way to the Channel Gardens in front of Rockefeller Center, passing several airline offices and fashion shops on the way.

Channel Gardens

5th Avenue / 50th Street. (C4).

A comfortable oasis of flowers and fountains and a pedestrian street leading to Rockefeller Center and a convenient meeting point. The city’s Christmas tree is put up here.

At the other end of Channel Gardens we come to the sunken Rockefeller Plaza with a café in summer and a skating rink in winter. A golden bronze statue of Prometheus guards the plaza.

Rockefeller Center

47th-50th Street. (C4).

It consists of the buildings around the plaza. The Art Deco towers were built just before World War II, connected by the extensive Rockefeller Plaza with luxury shops and restaurants.

The major tower is the RCA-building of 70 floors with a good view from the top balcony. Radio City Music Hall, the largest music auditorium in the world, seating 6,000 people, is behind the RCA-building.

We return through Channel Gardens to 5th Avenue, turn left, pass the Atlas statue by Lawrie in front of the International Building, cross the avenue and are in front of St Patrick’s Cathedral.

St Patrick‘s Cathedral

5th Avenue betw. 50th & 51st. (C4).

The major Catholic church in New York, built in Gothic style without buttresses in 1879, then far out in the country but now a dwarf under the office towers. In such a situation it is difficult to believe the fact that it is the 11th largest church in the world.

The long processions of the descendants of Irish immigrants on St Patrick’s Day end in front of the church. At that time there are oceans of people in the street and all bars full of thirsty people.

We continue on 5th Avenue and turn right into 53rd Street, where we see Paley Park on our left.

Paley Park

53rd Street betw. 5th & Madison. (C4).

A small lot has been converted into a relaxed garden where the sounds of falling water drown out the traffic noise. We can even sit down. This is a perfect example of good use of confined space.

We return to 5th Avenue, cross it and continue on 53rd Street to the Museum of Modern Art on our right.

Museum of Modern Art

11 West 53rd Street betw. 5th & 6th. Phone: 708 9500. Hours: Open Saturday-Tuesday 11-18, Thursday-Friday 12-20:30. (C4).
To walk through Museum of Modern Art is like walking through an illustrated history of modern art. We recall the works of art from pictures in books. MoMA, as the museum is usually called, owns many of the typical and best works by many of the 20th C. masters. And the museum is not even old, it founded in 1929 and was recently enlarged.

The museum covers mainly 1880-1960, that is Impressionism, Expressionism and Abstract art.

The air-conditioned museum is also a comfortable oasis in the crowded Midtown. Most relaxed is the back garden with sculptures and fountains, a café and a restaurant.

Joan Miro is one of the important artists in MoMA.

Joan Miro

A Catalan painter born in 1893, influenced by Cubism, Dada and Surrealism, one of the ideologists of Surrealism. Lived for many years in the Netherlands before returning to Spain where he lived in Mallorca.

Another important MoMA artist is Pablo Picasso.

Picasso

Born on the Costa del Sol in Spain in 1881, studied in Barcelona and settled down in Paris. Took an active part in developing several of the 20th C. styles of painting, including Cubism. The Young Women of Avignon is an example of that period.

Another famous artist is Piet Mondrian.

Mondrian

A Dutch painter born in 1872, lived in Holland, Paris and London. He went through many of the 20th C. styles of painting and founded the De Stijl movement. One of the main exponents of Abstract art. Broadway Boogie Woogie is a good example of his style.

Next we turn our attention to Henri Matisse.

Matisse

A French painter born on the Côte d’Azur in 1954. Learned and lived in Paris, one of the main proponents of Expressionism. The Dance is one of his most important and defining works.

Jackson Pollock shall be the last example on our visit to MoMa.

Pollock

Born an American, one of the main movers and shakers of Expressionism. “One” is one of his best-known works of art.

When leaving MoMA we return to 5th Avenue and observe the goings on.

Fifth Avenue

Most of the shops in this part of the avenue are fashions hops. A lonely bookshop, Dalton’s is between 52nd and 53rd Streets. Above it there is a tower with the number 666 on 5th Avenue and with excellent views from the bar on the top floor, Top of the Sixes.

We continue north on 5th Avenue, pass lots of fashion shops. At 56th Street we arrive at Trump Tower on the right side of the Avenue.

Trump Tower

5th Avenue / 56th Street. (C3).

A tower with a difference, with a ground floor of six storeys of expensive fashion shops and still more expensive flats above them.

We continue on 5th Avenue and stop on the corner of the 57th Street.

57th Street

57th Street.

Two streets form the main cross of the Midtown area, 5th Avenue and 57th Street. The latter one is a street of fashion shops on the ground floor and of art galleries on the upper floors. Near the center of the cross there are several well-known hotels and restaurants.

We continue on 5th Avenue to 58th Street, where we come to Grand Army Plaza.

Grand Army Plaza

5th Avenue / 59th Street. (C3).

A square of expensive shops and hotels. The Pulitzer fountain is in the middle of the square. Horse-drawn carriages wait for tourists who want to make a slow trip into Central Park.

Museum Mile is the part of 5th Avenue north of Grand Army Place.

Museum Mile

5th Avenue.

Many of the most famous museums in New York face the Museum Mile. First there is Frick Collection, then Metropolitan Museum, Guggenheim Museum and finally Cooper-Hewitt Museum. Near the mile we have Whitney Museum on Madison Avenue.

We continue on that way, by taxi or foot the 1 kilometer to the Frick Collection on the right side of the avenue.

Frick Collection

1 East 70th Street / 5th Avenue. Phone: 288 0700. Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 10-18, Sunday 13-18. (C2).

An important Upper East Side museum facing Central Park, popular for being rather relaxing. It is a city mansion with works of art from earlier centuries hanging on walls above the luxurious furniture of the collector.

Another kilometer by taxi or foot brings us to the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the left side of the avenue.

Metropolitan Museum

5th Avenue &/ 82nd Street. Phone: 535 7710. Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday & Sunday 9.30-17:15, Friday-Saturday 9:30-20:45. (C1).

One of the largest museums in the world with more than 3,000,000 items. You have to make a plan for your walk through it. To visit it all in one day would be to much, a week is more to the point. This is a museum with a wide focus, a museum of art, of crafts, and of antiques. The rebuilt ancient Egyptian temple from Dendar is one of the central items.

Usually there are important temporary exhibitions.

Further 500 meters on 5th Avenue brings us to the Guggenheim Museum on the right side of the avenue.

Guggenheim Museum

1071 5th Avenue betw. 88th & 89th. Phone: 360 3500. Hours: Open Monday-Wednesday 10-18, Friday-Saturday 10-20. (C1).

Not only famous for being one of the most important museums of modern art in the world but also for its own architecture, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in a spiral form.

When we arrive at this Upper East Side location facing Central Park we take an elevator to the top floor and then descend down the spiral through the whole museum.

On our way down we go through the special galleries on the 6th, 4th and 2nd floors who have focused themes. The spiral itself is used for temporary exhibitions. The fixed artists include Kandinsky, Mondrian, Klee, Braque, Picasso and Calder.

Just a little further along on 5th Avenue on the same side of the street we arrive at the Cooper-Hewitt Museum.

Cooper-Hewitt Museum

2 East 91st Street / 5th Avenue. Phone: 860 6868. Hours: Open Tuesday 10-21, Wednesday-Saturday 10-17, Sunday 12-17. (C1).

An important Upper East Side museum facing Central Park. It has drawings by Rembrandt and Dürer.

If we want to finish this walk by going to the Whitney Museum we have to get to the corner of Madison Avenue and 75th Street.

Whitney Museum

945 Madison Avenue / 75th Street. Phone: 570 3676. Hours: Open Wednesday & Friday-Sunday 11-18, Thursday 13-20. (C2).

An Upper East Side museum of American Art, one of the important museums on Manhattan. The building itself is a work of art, designed by Marcel Breuer and Hamilton Smith, looking like a bunker turned upside down. The back garden of sculptures and the basement house about 50 works of art by Alexander Calder. The museum is well-known for its daring policy of buying art.

East Side

We use this designation to cover the affluent eastern side of Midtown and the Upper East Side. We start in the south at the United Nations Building and finish in the north at the Roosevelt Island Tramway.

We start on the corner of 1st Avenue and 43rd Street, in front of the United Nations building.

United Nations Building

1st Avenue / 42nd Street. (D4).

Designed by a committee of world-famous architects including Le Corbusier, Oscar Niemeyer and Sven Markelius, built 1947-1953. The exterior is mainly the work of Corbusier. It is the first tower in Manhattan which is completely covered in glass.

The tower houses the central offices of the United Nations. The small building in front is the meeting hall of the General Assembly. Behind there are some other buildings with smaller meeting halls. Most of the halls are open to the public when meetings are not in session. The entrance is from the corner of 1st Avenue and 45th Street.

Opposite the U.N. between 43rd and 44th Streets is one of the most beautiful towers of Manhattan, the UN Plaza hotel.

We walk along 42nd Avenue to the Chrysler Building on our right.

Chrysler Building

405 Lexington Avenue / 42nd Street. (C4).

An Art Deco tower from 1930, influenced by car designs of that time, with a top that is reminiscent of a Chrysler 1929 water cooler. It was temporarily the tallest tower in the world. Some have found it to be ugly but lately it has been considered one of the most beautiful in town.

A little further on 42nd Street we come to Grand Central Terminal.

Grand Central Terminal

Park Avenue / 42nd Street. (C4).

The main railway station of Manhattan, a large pile built in 1903-1913, covering rails, roads and ramps on several floors. Half a million people use the terminal each working day.

The Beaux Art front has a clock with a width of 4 meters. Inside there is a main hall of 10 floors, with 38 meters up to the star-studded dome. Downstairs there is the incomparable Oyster Bar.

We cross Grand Central in the north direction through the Met Life Building.

Met Life Building

Park Avenue. (C4).

This graciously curved tower straddles Park Avenue, designed 1963 by Walter Gropius, Pietro Belluschi and Emery Roth, one of the landmarks of skyscraper architecture. The tower looks best from the Park Avenue north side. And it spoils the former vista along Park Avenue.

From the top floor there is a good view to the east to other Manhattan towers and west to Chrysler Building and United Nations Building.

We walk along Park Avenue.

Park Avenue

Park Avenue.

The only avenue in Manhattan with a grass island in the middle. On the right side we see how spacious glass gardens have been designed in the ground floor of the towers.

We pass the Inter-Continental and Waldorf-Astoria hotels on the right side of the avenue and come to St Bartholomew’s Church on the same side.

St Bartholomew‘s Church

Park Avenue betw. 50th & 51st. (C4).

A decorous Neo-Byzantine church of pink brick from 1919, with a small churchyard that contrasts with the towers around just as the church itself does. Its days may be numbered as the ever smaller congregation is too poor to refuse ever more inviting offers from greedy entrepreneurs who want to build a skyscraper on the lot.

We cross 5th Avenue and walk 51st Street to Madison Avenue. Villard Houses are on that corner.

Villard Houses

Madison Avenue / 51st Street. (C4).

Three houses from 1884, looking together like a Italian Neo-Renaissance palace on the outside. On the inside they have Rococo decorations. These architecturally important houses among skyscrapers were saved by hotelier Helmsley who transformed them into the lobby, bar and restaurant area of the hotel he built behind them.

After a look around in Madison Avenue we return to Park Avenue and turn left. Soon we come to Lever Building on the left side.

Lever Building

(C4).

Characterized by its dark blue glass walls, designed by Skidmore, Owings and Merrill in straightforward Bauhaus Modern style, built in 1952. The tower does not utilize its air-space completely and allows the rays of the sun to play with its sides. It is such an architectural milestone that it is already a protected monument.

We cross Park Avenue and go on 54th Street to Lexington Avenue. On that corner is Citicorp Center.

Citicorp

Lexington Avenue / 54th Street. (C4).

One of the younger towers of Manhattan, from 1977, designed by Hugh Stubbins, distinguished by its steep top and its giant order of columns at street level. The columns allow space for the small St Peter’s church.

A subterranean and comfortable garden, The Market, under the tower gives access to a mall of shops and restaurants.

We turn our attention to St Peter’s.

St Peter‘s Church

Lexington Avenue / 54th Street. (C4).

This modern church makes a striking contrast to the oversized surroundings.

We return to Park Avenue, turn right and continue northwards. On our left we arrive at the AT&T tower.

A. T. & T.

Park Avenue betw. 55th & 56th. (C3).

One of newest towers of Manhattan, from 1984, designed by Philip Johnson and John Burgee, well known by its Chippendale top, one of the most controversial towers in town. It is an example of the modern reaction against Modernism, clothed in reddish marble instead of aluminium, glass and steel. It looks like something that the lamp of Aladdin brought here by mistake.

The ground floor of the tower is a public garden with chairs and coffee tables spread around, quite a nice place.

We go on Park Avenue to the next corner. There we have three choices. We can turn right and walk along 57th Street to Madison Avenue and turn left there.

Madison Avenue

The next avenue to the east of Park Avenue and is one of the most fashionable shopping streets in Manhattan. From 57th up to 72th Street it is lined with shops and art galleries. Otherwise it is best known for being the center of the advertising and public relations services in New York.

From the corner of Park Avenue and 57th Street we can also walk west on 57th Street and then turn left on 3rd Avenue and right on 51st Avenue. There we arrive at Greenacre Park.

Greenacre Park

A tiny park nestling under office towers, a comfortable resting place with chairs and tables and a soothing waterfall in the rear, drowning out the noise from the motor traffic.

From the corner of Park Avenue and 57th Street we can also walk east on 57th Street all the way to 2nd Avenue and turn left there to enter Upper East Side.

Upper East Side

From the beginning of the 20th C. the area north of 59th Street and east of Central Park has been the quality residential district in New York. It is a tasteful district of city mansions and residential hotels. Everywhere there are uniformed guards in lobbies and long, black limousines at the curb. Many elegant bars, restaurants and nightclubs cater to the inhabitants.

It is also the main museum district, boasting of Metropolitan, Guggenheim, Frick, Cooper-Hewitt and Whitney Museums. And the district of embassies and respectable institutions. The residence of the mayor, Gracie Mansion, is on the East River. That part of the district is called Yorkville and was once the area of German immigrants.

We walk on 2nd Avenue to 60th Street to arrive at the Roosevelt Island Tramway, opened 1976. From there we take a colorful airborne tram for a four-minute ride over the western branch of East River to Roosevelt Island. Remember to bring subway tokens as tickets are not sold here.

Roosevelt Island

A modern residential district has been designed on the island, devoid of motor traffic. The river banks of the island offer good views over the river.

This concludes our walk around the eastern part of Manhattan.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

København hotels

Ferðir

71 Nyhavn

Nyhavn 71, 1051 K. Phone: 3311 8585. Fax: 3393 1585. Price: DKr.1350 ($235) with breakfast. All major cards. 82 rooms. (C2).

A relaxing hotel in a converted harbor warehouse, 500 meters from Kongens Nytorv, built as a storehouse for salt and spices at the tip of Nyhavn harbor. It survived the bombardment of Copenhagen in 1807, fell on hard times and served as a furniture storehouse in the latter part of this century. In 1971 is was converted into a hotel, collecting several restoration awards.

It looks like the warehouse it was. Even most of the window shutters are original. The entrance is modest. The supporting structure of broad pine beams is everywhere in evidence, in every room. Corridors are narrow. Most modern conveniences have been built into this skeleton. Staying here is like traveling first class to the past. The staff remember guests’ room numbers.

Room no. 340 has the preferred Nyhavn side and Malmø ferries view. It is small but grows larger when the curtains are drawn. The furniture is modern and comfortable, with one easy-chair. The tiled bathroom is even smaller. All instruments are of the most modern kind and function perfectly, but the towels are on the small side.

Admiral

Toldbodgade 24-28, 1253 K. Phone: 3311 8282. Fax: 3332 5542. Price: DKr.950 ($165) with breakfast. All major cards. 366 rooms. (C2).

The avant-garde antique hotel is in a 200 years old grain-drying house at the harbor, 500 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and 300 meters from the royal residence in Amalienborg. This severe-looking building is one of a few substantial ones to survive both the city fire of 1795 and the bombardment of 1807. The heavy Pomeranian pine structure is everywhere evident.

There is no steel and no concrete. Most of the corridors have the original wide and arched brick wall running through the whole length of the building. Reception and service is friendly, but there can be a traffic congestion in the lobby when groups are leaving and coming. A nightclub is in the hotel, which is popular for conferences.

The spacious room no. 624 has the preferred harborside view. It is on two levels in the attic, with a sleeping area upstairs. Brown beams and buttresses contrast with white walls. A wooden staircase connects the two levels. Amusing paintings decorate the place. In the sitting area there are two easy-chairs and a convertible sofa. The tiled bathroom is well equipped.

Angleterre

Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050 K. Phone: 3312 0095. Fax: 3312 1118. Price: DKr.2050 ($357) with breakfast. All major cards. 139 rooms. (B2).

The prestigious address in Copenhagen for centuries, one of the oldest luxury hotels of the world, founded more than two centuries ago. The White Lady of the North has ever since been a stopover for kings and presidents, nobles and snobs, the right address at the right city square. It look elegant at Kongens Nytorv, stealing the scene from other palaces around the square.

Restorations have succeeded in keeping up with time. Service is quick and friendly. Famous restaurant Reine Pedauque is surprisingly good and surprisingly inexpensive, especially the set lunch. Breakfast is served in the glassed-in sidewalk café on the square.

The large room no. 427 is comfortable and polished, with ample furniture of an inconsistent style, neither modern nor antique. It is quiet in spite of having a balcony overlooking the street. In the spacious bathroom everything is in good condition.

Ascot

Studiestræde 61, 1554 V. Phone: 3312 6000. Fax: 3314 6040. Price: DKr.890 ($155) with breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (A3).

One of the friendliest hotels in town, in a small building just 100 meters from Rådhuspladsen square.

It is a peaceful and an homelike inn, manned by staff of friendly young people who remember guests’ room numbers and give lightning-fast room service. It has an eccentric lift in ancient British style. The hotel is decorated with several works by Bjørn Viinblad, paintings, sculpture and flower-pots.

Room no. 305 is smallish, with an inside corner window. The furniture is showing signs of age, but not unpleasantly so. Lights are modern and rather dim. The spacious bathroom has all necessary fixtures. A graphic work by Bjørn Viinblad brightens one of the walls.

Christian IV

Dronningens Tværgade 45, 1302 K. Phone: 3332 1044. Fax: 3332 0706. Price: DKr.900 ($157) with breakfast. All major cards. 42 rooms. (B2).

A small and modern hotel a few steps from Kongens Have and 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv.

The public rooms are tasteful and comfortable, with good breakfast and several newspapers.

Room no. 22 is of medium size, white walls and bright furniture, blue and golden curtains and bed-spreads. The fully tiled bathroom has an open shower.

City

Peder Skramsgade 24, 1054 K. Phone: 3313 0666. Fax: 3313 0667. Price: DKr.1040 ($181) with breakfast. All major cards. 81 rooms. (C2).

A comfortable and centrally located hotel in a white building on the stretch between Holbergsgade and Havnegade about 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square.

In the lobby a fountain staircase sculpture with ivy greets you in front of the breakfast room.

The clean and comfortable room no. 511 has quality furniture in bright, somewhat sterile colors, and reproductions on the walls. It has a trouser press. The bathroom in light brown tiles functions very well.

Copenhagen Crown

Vesterbrogade 41, 1620 V. Phone: 3121 2166. Fax: 3121 0066. Price: DKr.1150 ($200) with breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms. (A3).

Situated on the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Danmark

Vester Voldgade 89, 1552 V. Phone: 3311 4806. Fax: 3314 3630. Price: DKr.895 ($156) with breakfast. All major cards. 49 rooms. (B3).

A very small hotel just behind the City Hall, 200 meters from Rådhuspladsen square.

It is recently furnished in a modern building with large windows.

Room no. 508 is well furnished, with large windows, and is quiet in spite of that. The tiled bathroom is comfortable.

Esplanaden

Bredgade 78, 1260 K. Phone: 3391 3200. Fax: 3391 3239. Price: DKr.850 ($148) with breakfast. All major cards. 116 rooms. (C1).

Near the Kastellet promenade area and the Little Mermaid. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Grand

Vesterbrogade 9a, 1620 V. Phone: 3131 3600. Fax: 3131 3350. Price: DKr.1095 ($190) with breakfast. All major cards. 144 rooms. (A3).

Conveniently located in front of the central railway station. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Hebron

Helgolandsgade 4, 1653 V. Phone: 3131 6906. Fax: 3131 9067. Price: DKr.500 ($87) with breakfast. All major cards. (A3).

A cheap and basic hotel 200 meters from the central railway station.

There is no service but the breakfast buffet is good.

The rooms are clean and comfortable and have everything in good working condition.

Komfort

Løngangsstræde 27, 1468 K. Phone: 3312 6570. Fax: 3315 2899. Price: DKr.950 ($165) with breakfast. All major cards. 201 rooms. (B3).

An adequate hotel in a nondescript building perfectly located a few steps from the city hall, on the stretch between Vester Voldgade and Kattesund.

The lobby is clean, the breakfast room is fine and service is rather good. There is also a game room with a billiard table.

The worn and old-fashioned room no. 407 has solid furniture of wood, including a writing table and two easy-chairs. The bathroom is clean and fully tiled, but not especially inviting.

Kong Arthur

Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 K. Phone: 3311 1212. Fax: 3332 6130. Price: DKr.1195 ($208) with breakfast. All major cards. 107 rooms. (A2).

In a quiet place near he lakes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kong Frederik

Vester Voldgade 25, 1552 V. Phone: 3312 5902. Fax: 3393 5901. Price: DKr.1750 ($304) without breakfast. All major cards. 110 rooms. (A2).

Beautiful inside and out, a white building from the start of the 20th C.,centrally located a few steps from Rådhuspladsen square, between Vestergade and Studiestræde.

A large lobby with pictures of Danish kings is in front of a glassed-in garden for breakfasts. Service is friendly and comfortable.

The spacious room no. 129 has quality furniture of brown wood, yellow wallpaper and thick curtains in front of a large window overlooking the breakfast garden. The fully tiled bathroom has all the amenities.

Mayfair

Helgolandsgade 3, 1653 V. Phone: 3131 4801. Fax: 3313 8900. Price: DKr.925 ($161) with breakfast. All major cards. 126 rooms. (A3).

Conveniently situated around the corner from the central railway station, about 200 meters away.

It has moved up in the world following a face-lift.

The rooms are recently furnished and comfortable and all the fixtures are working in the bathrooms. The rooms even have trouser-presses.

Mercur

17 Vester Farimagsgade, 1780 V. Phone: 3312 5711. Fax: 3312 5717. Price: DKr.955 ($166) with breakfast. All major cards. 108 rooms. (A3).

In the central railway station area. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Neptun

Sankt Annæ Plads 14-20, 1250 K. Phone: 3313 8900. Fax: 3314 1250. Price: DKr.1235 ($215) with breakfast. All major cards. 60 rooms. (C2).

A small neighbor to Angleterre, 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv square.

The reception is small and the service is friendly. Behind the lobby there a small back garden and distinguished sitting rooms with antique furniture.

Room no. 204 was on the small side, overlooking the garden, very clean and well equipped, including a trouser-press.

Opera

Tordenskjoldsgade 15, 1055 K. Phone: 3312 1519. Fax: 3332 1282. Price: DKr.980 ($170) with breakfast. All major cards. 66 rooms. (B2).

A small and central hotel behind the Royal Theater and Opera, 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv square.
It has a distinguished atmosphere and efficient staff that know guests by their names. It sports a comfortable bar which is popular after performances.

Room no. 316 is complicated and looks to three directions at the same time. It is divided into a front area with a cupboard, a sitting area and a sleeping area with a fully tiled bathroom. In the middle there is an old writing desk.

Palace

Rådhuspladsen 57, 1550 V. Phone: 3314 4050. Fax: 3314 5279. Price: DKr.1425 ($248) with breakfast. All major cards. (A3).

The most elegant rooms are to be had directly at Rådhuspladsen square, in a hotel that has been renovated and is sparkling again. It has a respectable front and an imposing tower.

The service and the price do not quite match the elegance of the guest rooms.

The spacious room no. 308 has a perfect view and is completely quiet when the window is closed. It is richly and comfortably furnished in polished wood of excellent carpentry.

Park

Jarmers Plads 3, 1551 V. Phone: 3313 3000. Fax: 3314 3033. Price: DKr.760 ($132) with breakfast. All major cards. 66 rooms. (A2).

A small hotel with a human touch and variable rooms, just 200 meters from Rådhuspladsen square.

The reception and service is agreeably Danish and old-fashioned. The inside rooms are preferable to the ones facing the traffic-heavy avenue outside. Many of the back rooms have elements of the original structure included in the decoration.

Room no. 102 is large and elegant, with a sitting area, a real writing desk, a bathroom laid in marble and three big windows to the street, a little more expensive than the other two. No. 402 is not as large and not as noisy. No. 315 is smallest and most romantic, with a half-timbered wall. All the rooms are in mint condition, equipped with excellent bathrooms.

Phoenix

Bredgade 37, 1260 K. Phone: 3395 9500. Fax: 3333 9833. Price: DKr.1450 ($252) without breakfast. All major cards. 212 rooms. (B2).

A beautiful 17th C. building in a lovely location, used in sequence as headquarters for the German occupation army, the Allied Forces and the Danish Communist Party before it was converted into a hotel. It is centrally located on the corner of Bredgade and Dronningens Tværgade about 200 meters from the central Kongens Nytorv square.

The large and marbled lobby has a fountain in the middle and carved furniture, sculptures and statues, crystal chandeliers and paintings. The service fits the august atmosphere.

Room no. 1147 is rather spacious and very tasteful, with thick curtains in front of three windows, a crystal chandelier. It is crowded with white and antique furnishings of quality, including such modern things as a trouser press, a fax machine, a security box and a large TV set. The fully tied bathroom has a marble table.

Plaza

Bernstorffsgade 4, 1577 V. Phone: 3314 9262. Fax: 3393 9362. Price: DKr.1650 ($287) with breakfast. All major cards. 96 rooms. (A3).

One of the two best hotels in Copenhagen, smaller and not quite as expensive as Angleterre, is opposite the central railway station and Tivoli, convenient for those who arrive by train or plane.

Heavy wood and thick leather are the hallmarks. Speech hushes into a whisper in the distinguished library, dominated by a flower arrangement. The reception is small and the service is friendly, remembering the room numbers and names of guests. A lift of glass whisks up to the upper floors after a drink in the irresistible library.

The unusual room no. 602 is in the attic, characterized by the structural beams. Room no. 408 is more conventional. Both are big, well furnished in a traditional manner and well equipped, also in the completely tiled bathroom. Mild and cozy colors dominate with exuberant modern paintings.

Richmond

Vester Farimagsgade 33, 1780 V. Phone: 3312 3366. Fax: 3312 9717. Price: DKr.955 ($166) with breakfast. All major cards. 135 rooms. (A2).

A small and quiet hotel 600 meters from Rådhuspladsen and the central railway station.

Rooms at the back are preferable to the noisy front rooms.

Room no. 502 is ample, furnished with quality and sober elegance in a somewhat outdated Scandinavian style.

Royal

Hammerichsgade 1, 1611 V. Phone: 3314 1412. Fax: 3314 1421. Price: DKr.2000 ($348) without breakfast. All major cards. 263 rooms. (A3).

The oldest and the most central of the hotel towers. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sophie Amalie

Sankt Annæ Plads 21, 1250 K. Phone: 4533 1334. Price: DKr.960 ($167) without breakfast. All major cards. 134 rooms. (C2).

A nice and modern hotel with a harbour view on the corner of Sankt Annæ Plads and Toldbodgade, about 200 meters from the royal Amalienborg palace and the same distance in the other direction to Nyhavn harbour.

The lobby is graced with a charming water sculpture.

Room no. 301 is spacious, with a sitting area. It has modern furnishings in white and softly violet colors, a granite table and a glass wall with a harbour view. The bathroom is small and adequate.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Roma excursions

Ferðir

Villa Adriana

Hours: 9:00 – 90 minutes before sunset.

The vacation town of Tivoli is 30 km east of Rome, at the root of the Sabian hills. In 126-134 emperor Hadrian built a summer palace in a garden of 5 km in length about 5 km from Tivoli. Hadrian designed the area himself and copied buildings and monuments that he had seen on this travels. The ruins have been excavated and are now a museum.

We walk from the entrance through a wall remaining from an Athenian gateway called Pokile. We continue on the banks of a pond and pass a small and a big bath house, arriving at a long pond. On its other end there is Canopus, a copy of an Egyptian temple for Seramis. On our way back we cross the ruins on the right, first the barracks of the guards, Praetorium.

Then we continue past the fish pond to the real summer palace. On the highest ground there is a square, Piazza d’Oro. Below it are the ruins of the emperor’s residence, such as a dining room and a sitting room. Still lower are the ruins of a library. To the left of the libraries is a colonnade around a circular pond. We have again arrived at the Pokile.

The daily sightseeing buses to Villa Adriana also include a visit to the cardinal Villa d’Este.

Ostia Antica

Hours: Open daily 9 – 1 hour before sunset.

The old harbor city of Rome is 25 km south-west of the capital. It is reachable by a train from Porta San Paolo, which is connected with the metro system of Rome. The ruins have been excavated and are now a museum. They are mainly from the 2nd C. River silt closed the harbor and the city was abandoned, hidden by silt and has thus been preserved.

The ruins are 1,5 km in length. From the entrance we walk the main street, Decumanus Maximus, part the graveyard to the bath house of Neptun with beautiful mosaics. Beside it is a well preserved theater and further on a square of shops and offices of merchant and transport companies.

On the main street we continue to the main square, Forum, with the main temple, Capitolum, from early 2nd C. The marble has disappeared, but parts of the walls are still there. There are many remains of Insulae, residential apartments of 3-4 storeys, often built around a courtyard. We can spend a lot of time to stroll around the side streets and alleys before returning by the main street.

Castelli Romani

The generic name of a few towns in the hills 25 km south of Rome. They include Castel Gandolfo, Rocca di Papa, Grottaferrata and Frascati.

They are accessible by sightseeing buses from Rome. They usually stop first at a catacomb and at Via Appia Antica.

Via Appia Antica

This ancient road was built in 312 B.C. and led from Rome to Capua, Benevento and Brindisi. Tombs were early placed alongside it, as it was forbidden to bury people inside the city limits.

We can still drive on parts of this road, past the major Christian catacombs, the tomb of Romulus, the arena of Maxentius and the tomb of Cecilia Metella, in addition to lots of smaller tombstones.

We visit one of the catacombs signposted from the Via Appia Antica.

Catacombe

Three catacombs are open on the Via Appia Antica. They are all conveniently open Monday when most of the museums in Rome are closed. Catacombe Callisto is closed Wednesday, Catacombe Domitilla is closed Tuesday and Catacombe Sebastiano is closed Thursday.

The catacombs were not a hiding place for Christians. Most of them were dug in the 3rd and the 4th C, when Christianity had become an acceptable religion. They were normal Christian graveyards, usually a few storeys down, as the early Christians had to dig deeper down when the space filled up.

We drive on to Castelli Romani and start with Castel Gandolfo.

Castel Gandolfo

The village is on the edge of the big crater that created Lago di Albano. The summer residence of the Pope and his astronomy observatory are in this town. In front of the entrance there is a balcony with a good view over the lake of Albano.

We next drive to Rocca di Papa

Rocca di Papa

This town is perched on the slopes of Monte Cavo. The streets are steep and the alleys are twisted. It is the highest town in the Castelli Romani area.

Next we drive to Grottaferrata.

Grottaferrata

A beautiful monastery is behind a moat in this town. It is a Catholic monastery with some Orthodox rituals. It has a church tower from the 12th C.

Our last stop on this trip is in Frascati.

Frascati

The center of vineyards and of wine making in the area around Rome.

The majestic Villa Aldobrandini towers over the central square.

After seeing Frascati we drive back to Rome.

Napoli

Napoli is no more a beautiful city. It is a noisy city of congested car traffic, dominated by the Italian crime society of Camorra. Robbery and theft is common.

On the other hand the city is a convenient starting point for those visitors to Rome who want to visit the ghost towns of Herculanum and Pompeii, climb the Vesuvius volcano, drive along the Amalfi coast or visit the island of Capri.

Most of the sights in the city are clustered in the center by the old harbor, including the city castle and the royal palace.

Napoli is 219 km from Rome. The trains are good and punctual. We do some sightseeing in Napoli, starting with the harbor castle.

Castel Nuovo

The giant harbor castle was built in 1282, surrounded with a wide and deep moat. The city entrance is in the shape of a triumphal arch of two storeys, built in 1467.

Adjacent to the castle is the royal palace of Napoli, Palazzo Reale. On our way we pass Teatro San Carlo, an opera house and a theater from 1737. Opposite the theater there is an old mall.

Galleria Umberto I

The oldest shopping mall in Naples, in the form of a crucifix, with an enormous glass and iron dome over the crossing.
We continue to the front of the royal palace.

Palazzo Reale

Hours: Open in the morning.

The royal palace of the kings of Napoli was built in the beginning of the 17th C. It has been renovated several times, but always according to the original style. It is now a museum.

The semicircular Piazza del Plebiscito is in front of the royal palace.

We walk further on the coastal hotel street to a sailboat harbour and a seaside castle.

Porto di Santa Lucia

This is the tiny Santa Lucia harbor, made famous by a Napoli song. It is now a sailboat harbor, nestling under a castle. From the jetty there is a good view of Vesuvius and the Napoli bay.

The Castel dell’Ovo is a Norman castle sitting on a seaside rock. It got its present look in 1274.

Opposite the harbor and castle is the main hotel street of Napoli.

This is the end of our walk in Napoli.

Miramare

Via Nazario Sauro 24. Phone: (081) 427 388. Fax: (081) 416 775. Price: L.240000 ($152) with breakfast. All major cards. 30 rooms.

The nicest hotel in Napoli is on the coast south of the city center, just 500 meters from the old royal palace.

It is in an old townhouse and has a good view over the bay to the Vesuvius volcano. It is modern and tasteful. A breakfast room is on the top floor with good views.

Room no. 107 is big, decorated in light blue colors, with a good writing desk, trouser press, coffee machine and an enormous mirror over the headpiece of the bed. From a big window there is a good view to Vesuvius. The bathroom is big and splendid, all done in marble, with a jacuzzi bathtub.

Royal

Via Partenope 38. Phone: (081) 764 4800. Fax: (081) 764 5707. Price: L.240000 ($152) with breakfast. All major cards. 273 rooms.

This practical hotel is round the corner on the coastal road from the Naples royal palace, opposite the sailing boat harbor of Santa Lucia. A group of hotels line this part of the seaside, Excelcior, Santa Lucia, Vesuvio, Continental and Royal.

This large hotel is rather functional, lacking in charm.

Room no. 810 is big and comfortable, in modern business decor. It has a good view to the sailing boat harbor Santa Lucia and the Castel d’Ovo castle. It has a giant mirror and a parquet floor. It is well outfitted, including a fully tiled bathroom.

Ciro a Santa Brigida

Via Santa Brigida 71-73. Phone: (081) 552 4072. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.70000 ($44) for two. All major cards.
A traditional and inexpensive place for business lunches and luxury shopping lunches adjoining the architecturally interesting shopping mall of Galeria Umberto I, but entered from the outside.

This is a big and noisy place, but also comfortable and clean, with good service in a few rooms on two floors.

• Penna mozzarella e malanzane = pasta tubes with cheese and aubergine.

• Pizza marinara = shellfish pizza.

• Magro di vitello ai ferri = pan fried veal slice with egg.

• Fritto calamari e gamberi = deep fried squid and shrimp.

• Zuppa inglese = sponge cake with whipped cream.

• Cannoli = butter pastry filled with sugared ricotta cheese, sugared orange peel and cocoa.

La Cantinella

Via Cuma 42. Phone: (081) 404 884 & (081) 405 375. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.100000 ($63) for two. All major cards.

The best restaurant in Naples, on the hotel beach road leading from the royal palace, beside the Miramare hotel.

The main dining room is dominated by huge and bright pillars. Along the street there is a long and narrow room decorated in blue, with velvet walls and ceiling.

• Linguine alla cantine = pasta threads with shrimp and spinach.

• Insalata di mare = cold seafood salad.

• Filetto di manzo = beef filet.

• Medaglioni de manzo = beef medallions.

• Mozzarella = Italian soft cheese.

• Macedonia di frutta = marinated fresh fruit.

Sbrescia Ciro

Rampe San Antonio a Posillipo 110. Phone: (081) 669 140. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.70000 ($44) for two. All major cards.

A lively place with a view, rather inexpensive, in Positano, a rich residential suburb on a peninsula north from the Naples center. It is on a steep road that winds up a hill.

Enormous windows give a good view to the Mergellina suburb and the castle of Uvo, all they way to Vesuvius.

• Linguine casa nostra = pasta threads of the house.

• Vermicelli alle vongole = spaghetti with small shells.

• Scaloppa alla Sbrescia = veal slices.

• Spigola = grilled sea bass.

• Uva = grapes.

• Gelato = ice cream.

Campania

The area around Napoli and the Vesuvius bay is the ancient Campania, a fertile crescent with lots of things to see. A one day drive south from Napels will take in the ghost cities of Herculanum and Pompeii, the volcano Vesuvius, the Sorrento peninsula and the Amalfi coast.

We start from Napoli on our first leg of 10 km to Herculanum.

Herculanum

Hours: Open daily.

A ghost town of 5000 people that drowned in 12 meter deep mud when Vesuvius erupted in the year 79. It was a rather poor town of fishermen at that time. It is rather well preserved as the wood has partly become ossified in the mud. Whole houses have been preserved, including the wooden structure, cooking utensils and furniture.

The excavation covers 150 x 250 meters. Three major and parallel streets are intersected by smaller streets, all on a rectangular plan. We go first into Casa dell’Albergo just below the stairs down to the ruins, then go to the main street Cardo IV up to the main square and then back again on the main street Cardo V. It is best to rent a guide and tell him how much time you want to spend there.

Among other things we can see mosaics on floors, the town baths with separate areas for the sexes, shops with counters on the street, a sculpture of deer and half-burnt furniture.

We drive the 15 km from Herculanum under the slopes of Vesuvius in the direction of Pompeii.

Vesuvio

One of the few remaining active volcanoes on the continent of Europe. It has two summits, the 1277 meter Vesuvius proper in the south and the 1132 meter Monte Somma in the north. The lower slopes are of fertile lava, supporting the production of Lacryma Christi wine.

Vesuvius had been quiet for a long time when it erupted in 79, burying the towns of Herculanum and Pompeii. During the next millennium it erupted seven times. Then came again a quiet period. In 1631 it started all over again, destroying many towns and killing 3000 people. Since then it has erupted at least eleven times, the last time in 1944.

The mountain is mainly climbed from the south and the west, which is the easier way. The crater is a strange lunar sight and the panorama from the top is unique.

We continue on the main road to Pompeii.

Pompeii

Hours: Open daily.

This was a business city of 25.000 people that disappeared in two days in a 6-7 meter layer of ash when Vesuvius erupted in the year of 79. Its center has been brought again to light in excavations of 2 x 1 km. We can see in a nutshell how life must have been in such a city more than nineteen centuries ago. We still can see election slogans on the walls and pornographic pictures in the brothel.

The central square is surrounded by the temples of Jupiter, Apollo and Vespanian, and a 67 meter basilica for commerce and courts. There are two theaters, one for 5000 people and the other for 800. Also two well-designed bath houses, including Terme Stabiane where we can see ossified mummies. The amphitheatre is one of the oldest preserved, from 80 B.C. There are many bars lining the main street.

We can see lots of Insulae apartment buildings with inner courts. Casa dei Vettii has frescos and gardens with sculpture and fountains. Rent a guide to make the most of your time. If you have extra time you can take a detour to Villa dei Misteri with big frescos showing the cult of Dinoysios.

We seek out the Casa dei Vettii.

Casa dei Vettii

Most of the best mosaics in Pompeii are in Casa dei Vettii, the best-preserved house, the home of two merchant brothers.

We now drive to the town of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi on the Sorrento peninsula, about 40 km from Pompeii. We can find lodgings in Hermitage, tel. (081) 878 0062 or in Jaccarino, tel. (081) 878 0026. Both have views to Napoli and Vesuvius. Then we prepare for dinner in the best restaurant in southern Italy, Don Alfonso. Next morning we take the Amalfi coast road, stopping first in Positano.

Don Alfonso

Corso Santa Agata 11, Sant’Agata. Phone: (081) 878 0026. Price: L.180000 ($114) for two. All major cards.

The best restaurant in southern Italy, including Rome, is in the little town of Sant’Agata which is perched on the peninsula between the Vesuvius and Salerno bays. It is on the main street, near the central square.

The couple Alfonso and Livia Jaccarino own this bright and beautiful restaurant and the adjoining Jaccarino hotel. He does the cooking and she directs the service. The tasting menu is especially good. The room is divided by a brick wall into two parts. The decorations are in hunting style.

• Involtino di pesce con rughetta e semi di finocchio selvatico = marinated fish with vegetables and egg sauce.

• Treccine di pesce azzurro agli ortaggi = hornfish with carrot, onion and celery.

• I paiceri della pasta = pasta threads with shells and pumpkin.

• Filetti di boccadoro ai cetrioli e rosmarino = poached small fish with rosmarin, mashed potatoes, tomato and cheese.

• Infuso alle erbe = lemon sorbet.

• Braciole di annecchia con pinoli e uvetta = raisins and nuts enclosed in beef.

• Scelta di formaggi = three types of cheese, gorgonzola, provolone and caciocavallo.

• Dolce e piccola pasticceria = green pistachio marzipan with mango sauce and filled with a cheese mixture.

Positano

Positano is the first village on the Amalfi coast, a fishing village transformed into a hotel town. The slope is so steep that in some cases there are cliffs between rows of houses. The white houses remind us of Greek or Spanish islands.

We continue on the scenic road on the Amalfi coast to the town of Amalfi.

Amalfi

The Amalfi coast is one of the most beautiful coastlines in Italy. Small fishing villages cower where deep gorges meet with tiny estuaries. Wealthy villas perch on steep slopes.

The tourist town of Amalfi has given its name to the coast. The houses are white as in Positano, but the landscape is not as wild, so there is room for a city center with a church in Byzantine style.

Vallone di Furore is the wildest part of the landscape on the coast. A small fishing village is hiding under vertical cliffs and steep slopes.

We drive on to Salerno and continue 60 km straight to Napoli.

Capri

Just off Sorrento peninsula, a vertical cliff island, 6×3 km. It has a mild climate and an abundant flora and has been a coveted place for relaxing all the way back to the time of Roman emperors. The main village is Capri, sitting in a saddle between mountains, with harbours on both sides.

There are no private cars in Capri, just small buses, taxis and electrical cycles which are used for transporting goods. Most streets in the village are pedestrian, some of them with no houses at street level, but with steep steps up and down to the houses.

From the main square, Piazza Umberto I, there are short walks to viewpoints, such as Cannone Belvedere, Tragara Belvedere and Giardini Augusto, also a long and steep path to the ruins of the palace of emperor Tiberius on a mountain top.

We start our visit in the harbor

Marina Grande

There are two harbors in Capri on either side of the town, both accessible by car. Marina Piccola is a tiny fishing harbor with beaches in the South and Marina Grande is the main harbor the North, nestling under steep cliffs. The latter is the embarkation point for visitors.

Next we take a bus or taxi to Anacapri.

Anacapri

The second village on the island, on its eastern part. It lies much higher than Capri and is accessible by a road through steep cliffs.

Anacapri is not as full of tourists as Capri. From there you can take a chair lift to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest top of the island, from where you have in good weather an unforgettable view over the whole island, the bay of Napoli and the Appenia mountain range. The road to the Blue Grotto also leads from Anacapri.

From Anacapri we can take a taxi down the slope to the Blue Grotto.

Grotta Azurra

The main attraction of Capri. It can be reached either by boat or car. From the boats and cars you embark into small rowing boats that are used for entering the cave. It is famous for its mysterious blue color reflected up from the sea.

There are organised boat trips to Grotta Azzurra from Marina Grande, partly in connection with trips around the island. On such trips you can see other caves, such as the Green Cave and the White Cave, which you can enter by foot. You also sail through the Faraglioni cliffs.

Palma

Via Vittorio Emanuele 39. Phone: (081) 837 0133. Fax: (081) 837 6966. Price: L.300000 ($189) with breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms.

One of the best hotels in Capri, well situated on a pedestrian street leading from the central Piazza Umberto I, about 100 meters from the piazza.

Pineta

Via Tragara 6. Phone: (081) 837 0644. Fax: (081) 837 6445. Price: L.120000 ($76) with breakfast. All major cards. 52 rooms.

A nice little hotel, about 10 minutes walk from the central Piazza Umberto I. We walk past the hotels Palma and Quisisana and turn left on Via Camerelle. Where it ends we walk a few steps up to Via Tragara, where the hotel is on the right.

Room no. 41 is enormous, with a big balcony with sun-deck chairs and with a very big bathroom in mint condition. The room has pleasant quality furniture in modern style, including an amusing painting of fish. It has good view to the ocean.

Quisisana

Via Camerelle 2. Phone: (081) 837 0788. Fax: (081) 837 6080. Price: L.400000 ($253) with breakfast. All major cards. 150 rooms.

The main luxury hotel is about 200 meters downhill from the central Piazza Umberto I.

La Tavernetta

Via Lo Palazzo 23a. Phone: (081) 837 6864. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards.

The best restaurant on Capri is in the narrow pedestrian street which is parallel with the main street, Via Roma, near the end that is farther away from the central Piazza Umberto I.

The restaurant is divided by arches into sections. The kitchen is in view.

• Ravioli alla caprese = pasta with tomato sauce and Capri-cheese.

• Risotto al gamberi = fried rice with king prawns.

• Filetto di manzo alla griglia = grilled beef filet.

• Capriccio-parfait = ice cream.

Moscardino

Piazza Umberto I. Price: L.70000 ($44) for two. All major cards.

A simple, good seafood restaurant with a convenient location in an arcade between Piazza Umberto I and the bus stop.

It has pine walls, decorated with incidental photos. It offers paper napkins and paper table-covers.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Madrid introduction

Ferðir

Cafés

The primary pastime of Madrilenos is to express themselves at cafés and bars, loudly and quickly. These marathon speechehe demise of the Falangist regime at the death of Franco in 1975.

The busy café and bar hours are 12-14 ands blossomed after the demise of the Falangist regime at the death of Franco in 1975.

History

The highest capital of Europe, 646 m above sea level, with 3 million inhabitants. The name comes from the Moors who called it Magerit. It was conquered by the Christians in 1083 and accidentally became the capital of Spain in 1561 when the Habsburg emperor Philip II decided to build the royal palace of El Escorial in the vicinity.

Madrid continued to be a dirty rural town for a while. It began to acquire cosmopolitan atmosphere after the access of the French Bourbons to the Spanish throne. They built the royal palace in the city center, laid out avenues and parks.

With the opening of new art galleries in addition to the famous Louvre, such as Colección Thyssen and Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid has become one of the artistic and cultural centers of Europe.

Life

Since the fall of Franco the capital of Spain has changed from a peaceful, oversized village into the most lively capital of Europe. The Madrilenos are adapting to democracy and freedom so enthusiastically that they seen to be making up for half a century of Falangist yoke.

Bars and cafés seem to be full of people most of the day and night. The center is on full blast from morning to morning, with quiet periods in 5-7 and 14-16 for morning and afternoon siestas.

Movida is the Madrileno name for this. Work and leisure come first and sleep comes later. Research shows Madrilenos to sleep less than inhabitants of other capitals in Europe. The abandon is such that people come to restaurants and clubs after midnight with toddlers in cradles.

Spaniards

Spain is not a single country. It is inhabited by several peoples. The central part is the landlocked Castilla, the Land of Castles, which has provided the aristocracy and the Spanish language, called Castilian by other peoples in Spain. To the south of Castilla is the poor and happy Andalucía, heavily influenced by the Moors and relatively deferent to the center.

More centrifugal are the peoples of the East and the North. The inhabitants of the active Catalunya and Valencia in the East have their own languages, related to French. The inhabitants of Galicia and Euskadi in the North also have their own languages. Galician is related to Portuguese; and Euskera, the language of the Basks, stands alone in the world, unrelated to any language.

To set Spaniard apart from other Europeans we can describe them as egocentric anarchists. They are trained to express themselves rather than to give and receive information. They will not be herded. Usually several talk at the same time at café conversations. They are arrogant and friendly, cantankerous and generous, especially fond of children. And they produce lots of artists.

Spanish history

The Iberian peninsula is both isolated and a crossroads. In prehistoric times it was populated by ancient European people like Iberians and Celts. Greeks and later Carthaginians were temporarily influential, but Romans later got a good foothold. They made Iberia one of the cornerstones of their vast empire and even imported famous emperors, poets and philosophers from Spain.

Then the Moors from Africa took over and reigned for eight centuries. They made Spain a cultural center of Islam, leaving important footprints. That period was followed by a strict Catholic period of five centuries. In the 16th C. of Discovery Spain became the most powerful country on earth, exporting the Spanish language to the major part of Latin America.

At the end of the Falangist reign of Franco Spain had again become poor and backward, with an internationally despised regime. After the re-introduction of democracy it has made up for lost time and is now a stable pillar in the Western World.

Embassies

Australia

Avenida del Generalísimo 61. Phone: 458 7200.

Canada

Núñez de Balboa 35. Phone: 225 9119.

Eire

Padilla 20. Phone: 225 1685.

South Africa

Claudio Coello 91. Phone: 225 3830.

United Kingdom

Fernando el Santo 16. Phone: 419 0200.

United States

Serrano 75. Phone: 276 3600.

Accident

Phone: 092.

Ambulance

Phone: 091.

Complaints

If you are dissatisfied with the services of a hotel or a restaurant you can demand a complaint form, “hoja de reclamaciones” in triplicate that the establishment is required to have. A demand for this form can often solve problems as the complaints of travelers are taken seriously in Spain.

Dentist

Fire

Phone: 091.

Hospital

Phone: 061.

Urgencia Médica, Barco 26, tel. 531 8847, is an emergency hospital in Madrid.

Medical Care

Pharmacy

Pharmacies are open Monday-Saturday 9-14 and Monday-Friday 16-20. Look for the sign: “Farmacia”. They usually put out signs with information on the nearest pharmacy on night duty. They are allowed to sell some medicine without prescription.

Police

Phone: 091.

Precautions

Don’t use a handbag. Keep money in inside pockets. Use cards as much as possible. Don’t keep passports in the same place as money. Don’t leave valuables in a locked car. There is some petty crime, but very little violent crime in Madrid or Spain generally.

Banks

Most banks are open Monday-Friday 9-14 and Saturday 9-13. Some open for currency change 17-19.

Credit cards

Credit cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Eurocard, Access) have the largest circulation.

Electricity

Spanish voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Some old hotels have an older 120V system.

Hotels

Spanish hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing, if they are recommended by editors of guides like this one. Small hotels can also be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We only include such hotels, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our Mediterranean afternoon naps. The price ranges from 4,700 pts to 32,000 pts, excluding breakfast.

We try to avoid breakfast at hotels as in Spanish hotels it is as insubstantial as in French hotels. More tasty and economical is a café with bread on the corner café patronised by the locals. Breakfast is in most cases included in the stated price, as that is the normal price quoted.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some many-starred hotels in Madrid are in fact worse than our selection of two-star hotels.

Money

There are notes for 5,000, 1,000, 500 and 100 pesetas, pts, and coins for 100, 50, 25, 5 and 1 pts.

Most hotels and restaurants accept both Visa and Eurocard (MasterCard, Access)

Prices

Prices tend to rise a little more in Spain than generally in the European Union. Spain is not a cheap country any more.

Shopping

Shops are generally open Monday-Saturday 9-13/14 and Monday-Friday 16:30/17-19:30/20 and even longer on Monday-Friday. Department stores are open during the siesta, also on Saturday.

Tipping

Service is included in hotel and restaurant bills and on taximeters. Some restaurant customers even amounts up. Porters get 50 pts per suitcase.

Toilets

There are toilets in cafés, restaurants, museums and department stores. In some places there are attendants who expect tips.

Tourist office

The Oficina de Turismo is at Plaza Mayor 3, tel. 221 1268 and 266 4874; and at Princesa 1 (plaza de España), tel. 241 2325.

Water

Tap water is drinkable, but many use bottled water to be on the safe side.

Accommodation

Accommodation offices at Barajas airport and Atocha and Chamartin railway stations find hotel rooms for travelers.

Ask for a room with “twin bed” as such beds and rooms are often larger that those with “double bed”. Rooms on the outside are often more bright and airy but also more noisy that those on the inside. Rooms with a view are generally not more expensive than ones without.

Airport

Barajas airport is 13 km from the center, tel. 205 4090 and 205 8384. A taxi drive takes half an hour and costs 1,000 pts. A train is quicker than an air-conditioned bus that leaves every 20 minutes from Plaza de Cólon and gets to the airport in 45 minutes.

News

International Herald Tribune is widely sold. El País is a Spanish daily with lots of international news.

Phone

The Spanish country code is 34. The local code for Madrid is 1, 3 for Barcelona and 5 for Sevilla. You add 9 in front of calls between Spanish areas. The foreign code from Spain is 07.

Coin phones are common in bars and cafés.

Post

Post office are usually open Monday-Saturday 9-13 and Monday-Friday 17-19. The main post office in Madrid is open until midnight.

Railways

The Spanish railway system is reliable.

Taxi

Cabs are on special stands in the center. They can also be hailed in the street. If they are free they have a green light on top and a sign in the front window with the word “libre”. They use fare meters. There is a supplement for travels from and to the airport and for suitcases.

Traffic

Rush hours on the streets and in the metro are 8-10, 13-14, 16-17 and 1).30-20:30. The metro is clean and fast, but can become warm in summer.

Cigars

Spain once ruled over most of Latin America, from where many of the best cigars come. Therefore Spaniards are traditional cigar smokers and prefer good cigars, such as real Havanas. Premium cigars are widely available and less expensive than generally in Europe.

Coffee

Most establishments have espresso machines. Most Spaniards drink their coffee black (café solo). In the morning some prefer it with milk (café con leche).

Cuisine

The best cuisine in Spain is Basque and most of the famous chefs come from that region. They have the same exact attitude as French chefs. Elsewhere in Spain the cooking is relaxed, without any generally accepted rules. It is a charming, pastoral cuisine, which is at its best when simple. The ingredients are plentiful as Spain is a great agricultural and fishing country.

Desserts

Spaniards like rice for dessert, cooked with milk and spiced with cinnamon (arroz con leche). There are many varieties, some of them innovative.

Meat

Very good beef (buey) is usually available everywhere in Spain. Game is abundant, such as venison (corzo and venado), partridges (perdiz) and grouse (codorniz).

Beef is best when simply cooked, such as grilled (a la parilla) og braised (asado). Rare (poco hecho) is often better than medium (regular) or well-done (muy hecho).

Restaurants

Restaurants are generally open for orders 13:30-16 and 21-24. Many close in August and some on Sunday. Guides and concierges often try to push you into establishments that give them a percentage of your patronage.

Rioja

In Spanish restaurants many people ask for Rioja wine, which is generally the best one in Spain, Castillo Ygay and Vega Sicilia being the most famous ones.

Rioja is made by French methods and aspires to heights. The bouquet reminds you of vanilla and oak, but nowadays less definitely so. These wines age well and are kept for a long time before coming to the market. Ready now are 64, 70, 75, 78, 81, 82, and 85. 1989 and younger should be kept. Well-known Riojas are Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Cáceres and Marqués de Alella.

Seafood

Madrid is well-known for good seafood in spite of being an inland city. The catch arrives by air from the fishing harbors of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Oceans. The chefs get up early in the morning to go to the fish market.

Seafood cooking is on par with the rest of Europe. It is the variety that astounds, combining Mediterranean and Atlantic species. There are oysters (ostras), many types of shells (almejas), many types of shrimp (gambas, cigalas, langostas, langosinos), lobster (bogavante), and fish such as turbot (rodaballo), red sea bream (besugo) and hake (merluzo).

Ask for simple cooking such as grilling (a la parilla) og braising (al horno). Do not forget salted fish (bacalao), which is available in some of the best restaurants.

Sherry

Cocktails are not drunk in Spain. Their place is taken by scraping dry Sherries from Andalucía, such as Tio Pepe and La Ina, which do not dull the palate. Similar and saltier are Manzanillas from the Atlantic coast of Andalucía.

The driest and finest sherries are called Fino. A little less dry are called Palo Cortado, a category that is not very common. Sweeter sherries are called Oloroso. Amontillado is a term used for blended sherries which are not quite as sweet as Olorosos. Popular abroad are very sweet Cream Sherries, which are dessert wines and not appetizers.

Sherry is produced in the area around Jerez in Andalucía. The vineyards are classified and the producing bodegas are required to use the best areas for 85% of their blends.

Tapas

As Spaniards dine two times a day and at the most outrageous hours, they need snacks in between meals. They call it “tapas” and devour it at wine and snack bars at 13-14 and 20-23, when they are waiting for a suitable time to visit a restaurant.

Tapas bars are very lively and noisy. Many tapas are deep-fried and fattening. Some tapas often have an excellent taste, such as squid circles (calamares), red and small sausages, heavily spiced and doused with alcohol (chorizo), shrimp (gambas, cigalas), shells (almejas), anchovies (anchoas), snails (caracoles), cheese (manchego) and raw ham (jamón serrano)

Wine

Spanish wine is generally good, though sometimes tending to be rather neutral in taste. Chateau or denomination wines are definitely not as common as in France. Most people ask for the wine of the house or for Rioja wine, which is generally the best one in Spain, Castillo Ygay and Vega Sicilia being the most famous ones.

Rioja is made by French methods and aspires to heights. The bouquet reminds you of vanilla and oak, but nowadays less definitely so. These wines age well and are kept for a long time before coming to the market. Ready now are 64, 70, 75, 78, 81, 82, and 85. 1989 and younger should be kept. Well-known Riojas are Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Cáceres and Marqués de Alella.

Cocktails are not drunk in Spain. Their place is taken by scraping dry Sherries from Andalucía, such as Tio Pepe and La Ina, which do not dull the palate. Surprisingly many Spaniards drink still or sparkling mineral water with their meals, especially at lunch. Water is served in the wine glasses and the bottles are put in the wine coolers.

Surprisingly many Spaniards drink still or sparkling mineral water with their meals, especially at lunch. Water is served in the wine glasses and the bottles are put in the wine coolers.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Amsterdam restaurants

Ferðir

Bistro la Forge
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26. Phone: 624 0095. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (A3).
A few steps from the lively Leidseplein square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Blauwe Parade
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178. Phone: 624 0047. Fax: 622 0240. Price: DFl.90 ($54) for two. All major cards. (B1).
Good value at the Port van Cleve hotel, with delftware, a few steps from the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bols Taverne
Rozengracht 106. (A2).
This tasting local of the biggest jenever company is a combined pub and restaurant near Westerkerk and Anne Frank Huis, offering at least 100 different spirits. It has some garden tables outside. The offerings of the day are chalked on billboards. This place is unusually bright and unusually free of dust.

Café Roux
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197. Phone: 555 3560. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B2).
In the charming Grand hotel, in the university district. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Chez Georges
Herenstraat 3. Phone: 626 3332. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. All major cards. (A1).
A French restaurant near the Anne Frank house. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Christophe
Leliegracht 46. Phone: 625 0807. Fax: 638 9132. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.220 ($132) for two. All major cards. (A1).
A simple, split-level dining room behind huge shop windows, offering some of the best French cuisine in Amsterdam, 500 meters from Dam square. Jean-Christophe Royer from Toulouse cooks in the style of Southwestern France.
The softly pink walls are bare and the tables are unusually well spaced, enhancing a feeling of emptiness, if it were not for the huge flower arrangement in the middle. This is a culinary temple, not a decoration temple. Three menus, a four-course menu for DFl. 95, a three-course menu for DFl. 75 and a four-course vegetarian menu for DFl. 75.
• Wild mushroom paté with green vegetable sauce.
• Softly grilled salmon on green beans and red tomato sauce.
• Sweetbreads on stewed duck with mashed potatoes.
• Pear and raspberry soup with red wine sorbet.

Dynasty
Reguliersdwarsstraat 30. Phone: 626 8400. Fax: 622 3038. Hours: Closed Tuesday & January. Price: DFl.210 ($126) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A classy and smart Chinese spot in a quality restaurant street leading off Leidsestraat, with an open-air terrace in the back.
It is decorated with lots of parasols, matching paintings on the walls, busloads of flowers, showy curtains and carpets and a nice table service. The service is exemplary. The offerings are less standard and more interesting than those at the run-of-the-mill Chinese places, also relatively expensive.
There is a variety of set menus, offering samples of Chinese and also Thai and Vietnamese cooking. The good wine list fits the cuisine.

Edo
Dam 9. Phone: 554 6096. Fax: 639 3146. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (B2).
On a long shopping corridor behind the Krasnapolsky lobby, inside the hotel, offering Hibachi cooking, in which the chef stands at the guests’ table and does all the cooking from raw materials.
Guests sit on bar seats at a wooden table surrounding a stove on three sides. Seven can sit at each table. The materials arrive raw and sliced on trays. Then the cook starts his action, partly showing off. It inspires trust to see the gleaming, fresh food in front of you and to observe the simple pan-frying with as little oil as possible, retaining original flavors.
Lunch menus cost around DFl. 45, dinners around DFl. 70. The lunch menus can include items such as squid, coated in ginger and mustard sauce; fried onion and cucumber in garlic; scallops, mushrooms and prawns; beef slices, bean sprouts, paprika, potatoes, aubergines and rice with eggs. Everything is light on the stomach and correspondingly healthy.

Haesje Claes
Spuistraat 273. Phone: 624 9998. Fax: 627 4817. Price: DFl.85 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The premier Dutch restaurant in the city center has been a few steps from the Spui Square since the end of the 19th century. The Dutch even order here lots of hot chocolate with piles of whipped cream as a starter. Just forget calorie-counting.
This large restaurant, divided into smaller sections, is decorated in a cozy Dutch burgher style. The wood decorations are dark and heavy, partly carved. Frilled lampshades characterize the place, that is just as popular with traveling Dutchmen as it is with traveling foreigners who arrive here by the busloads.
• Kaassoufflé = cheese soufflé.
• Haring = herring.
• Kippensoep = chicken soup.
• Biefstuk = chopped beef.
• Hutspot = meat pot.
• Stoopwafels = waffels with syrup.

Indrapura
Rembrandtsplein 42. Phone: 623 7329. Fax: 622 3038. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B2).
It is at one of the main squares in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kantjil
Spuistraat 291. Phone: 620 0994. Fax: 623 2166. Price: DFl.95 ($57) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Comparatively inexpensive, plainly decorated, popular and authentic Indonesian restaurant in the city center, a few steps from the Historisch Museum, popular with young people.
It is large and divided into parts, including no-smoking areas. Furnishings are spare and no linen on tables. Service is good, though. Rijsttafel was priced at DFl. 40 upwards. Most people order something less, such as a luxury edition of Nasi Goreng at DFl. 20. The crispy prawn bread is abundant.
• Crispy prawn bread.
• Chicken soup with sliced egg.
• Rijsttafel = rice table.
• Nasi Goreng = small rice table.

Kopenhagen
Enge Kapelsteeg 1, Rokin 84. Phone: 624 9376. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A few steps from Rokin, 300 meters from Dam square, in a cellar with tiny windows. It offers rather good Danish cooking and as a special tourist menu at a reasonable price.
The decorations are eccentric. A comic strip on pirates is painted on the walls. Candles and oil lamps on the tables, rigging and tackle in the ceiling. This is the place for “smørrebrød”, Danish sandwiches, and for seafood rather than meat.
• Hovmestersild = a tray with six types of cured herring and smoked mackerel.
• Griet = Grilled brill with pan-fried potatoes and salad.
• Coffee with chocolate and mint.

Lucius
Spuistraat 247. Phone: 624 1831. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
A modern seafood restaurant very centrally located 400 meters from Dam. Its clientele consists mainly of young and cheerful people, served by equally young and cheerful people.
The dining room is long, with goldfish in aquariums. The menu is chalked on the walls among seafood posters. The tables are dense and the atmosphere is full of vitality. There is always one meat dish on the extensive menu.
• Trout paté with dill.
• Poached salmon with mushroom sauce and ham slices.
• Deep-fried cheese with almond flakes.
• Swordfish.

Manchurian
Leidseplein 10 a. Phone: 623 1330. Fax: 626 2105. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A2).
On the central Leidseplein itself, one of the best Chinese restaurants in the center. The large restaurant has a few tables in a glass enclosure on the pavement. It is heavily decorated in a Chinese way, including lanterns and complicated wall pictures.
The tables are luxuriously made up and the service is exemplary. A Chinese version of Rijsttafel offers 18 courses for DFl. 30. Other items are more interesting, such as a lotus and dates soup as a starter and a steamed sole with strange spices, served in the stock, as a main course.

Mirafiori
Hobbemastraat 2. Phone: 662 3013. Hours: Closed Tuesday dinner. Price: DFl.120 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The best Italian eatery for several years, on the road from Leidseplein to Rijksmuseum, about 200 meters from the latter.
The mild paneling is old and simple as the worn parquet on the floor. White linen covers the worn tables. Dusty wine bottles are in cupboards and on shelves all over the place. A whole wall is covered with photos of Italian guests. Italian music was augmented by the singing of the waiters.
• Prosciutto crudo San Daniele = raw ham from the Venetian area, with salad and butter.
• Stracciatella alla romana = egg soup.
• Zuppa di pesce = fish soup, a Thursday and Friday specialty.
• Scaloppina al marsala = veal in marsala wine sauce.
• Osso Buco = stewed veal shank with rice.
• Saltimbocca = veal slices with ham, sage and wine.
• Bel Paese = smooth cheese.
• Gorgonzola = blue-veined cheese from Lombardy.
• Real Italian coffee.

Oesterbar
Leidseplein 10. Phone: 623 2988. Fax: 623 2199. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The traditional oyster bar is on the centrally located Leidseplein square, opposite the ballet and opera palace. There is a glass enclosure on the pavement in front of the restaurant. A conventional dining room is on the first floor, but the real action and atmosphere is on the ground floor.
The restaurant is coolly decorated with large, white porcelain tiles and seafood posters on the walls at one side of a narrow room; and large fish tanks at the other side. The service is Italian and efficient. The guests, mainly local people, sit in comfortable chairs on the marble floor or take a seat at the bar to watch the cooks at their work.
The long menu covers many types of fish. Simpler preparations are preferable to the more complicated ones. Try six oysters, pan-fried Dover Sole with lemon and hollandaise sauce and pan-fried potatoes; steamed turbot with white potatoes.

Pêcheur
Reguliersdwardstraat 32. Phone: 624 3121. Fax: 624 3121. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).
One of many restaurants in a street leading off pedestrian Leidsestraat, between Leidseplein and Konningsplein. It is the best seafood restaurant in central Amsterdam. The Dutch have always been a seafaring nation and have an affinity with seafood. Fish cooking is probably the best part of Dutch cooking traditions.
It is a comfortably small dining room with a French look, with a marble floor, parasols above mirrors, Art Noveau chandeliers, potted plants between tables, and comfortable cane chairs.
• Shrimp salad with small shrimp and avocado.
• Scallops with salmon caviar.
• Poached turbot.
• Steamed sole on pasta.
• White chocolate cake with mint sauce.
• Cinnamon ice cream with cranberry sauce.

Poort
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178-180. Phone: 624 4860. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. (B1).
The traditional steak and pea soup house in the city center, just behind the Royal Palace.
The large and airy dining room has been a restaurant since 1870. Before that it was a beer brewery. The wall paintings are from that time. The furnishings are suitably old-fashioned. The porcelain tiles from Delft are famous. The clientele is divided between the home team and the foreign team in equal numbers.
Sausages float in the pea soup in the Dutch manner. The beef steak is served with fried potatoes. Brussels sprouts and cauliflower are typical vegetables. Dessert may be a Dutch sand cake with vanilla ice cream, red currants and whipped cream.

Prinsenkelder
Prinsengracht 438. Phone: 626 7721. Hours: Closed Monday, lunch. Price: DFl.230 ($138) for two. All major cards. (A2).
In the cellar of the Dikker en Thijs confectionery shop on the pedestrian Leidsestraat, entered from the canal side.
It is a low and a narrow cellar room with marble on the floor, rustic furniture, beams, brass and copper, and excellent tableware. The dishes are beautifully arranged and taste like Nouvelle Cuisine.
• Fowl liver paté with berries.
• Partridge with salad.
• Dutch ewe cheese

Quatre Canetons
Prinsengracht 1111. Phone: 624 6307. Fax: 638 4599. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (B3).
For decades one of the best French restaurants in town, modern in design, situated 200 meters from Magere Brug on the Amstel.
The bar is at the front, then the kitchen and a spacious restaurants in the rear, divided into two parts by a light partition. The paintings are made to fit. The professional service is excellent and the food is delicious.
• Marbré van ganzelever en vijgen met Sauternes gelei op een kruidensalade = marbled terrine of foie gras with a fig in the center and Sauternes gelé.
• Gamba’s in een knapperig aardappelkontje, gegarnered met gefrituurde dille = prawns in a crispy jacket of grated potato threads, with deep-fried dill.
• Carpaccio van ganzelever en Schotze zalm met een salade van Opperdoejer aardappel, gegarnered met truffeldressing = carpaccio of foie d’oie and Scotch salmon with potato salad and truffle dressing.
• Gebakken zwegerich met gamba’s en roergebakken groenten = fried sweetbreads with prawns and stir-fried vegetables.
• Eendebost in gekaramelliseerde boter gebakken met een saus van gemarineerde peperframbozen = breast of duck sautéed in caramelized butter with a sauce of marinated pepper-rapsberries.
• Kleine selectie kaazen = Bresse de Bleau and Swiss cheese.
• Dessert Les Quatre Canetons = marinated plum pie.

Radèn Mas
Stadhouderskade 6. Phone: 685 4041. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.170 ($102) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The poshest scene for Indonesian feasts is almost beside the Marriott hotel, in the same block as Barbizon Centre, only 200 meters from Leidseplein. It one of the most extremely designed restaurant in Holland, covered with mirrors, with several floor levels, decorated in various green colors and looks like a fantasy.
The cutlery is sparkling golden and the service is of the highest class. Of course this is an expensive place, where a normal Rijsttafel costs DFl. 68. It tastes good, albeit a little more westernized than usual. There is a lot of style but less of substance, but you also come here mainly for the style.
• Rijsttafel.

Rive
Professor Tulpplein 1. Phone: 622 6060. Fax: 622 5808. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.270 ($162) for two. All major cards. (C3).
Luxury restaurant in the Amstel hotel, with canal view. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Road to Manila
Geldserkade 23. Phone: 638 4338. Price: DFl.80 ($48) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A Philippine restaurant on the edge of the red light district in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Roode Leeuw
Damrak 93. Phone: 555 0666. Fax: 620 4716. Price: DFl.100 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B1).
A landmark of Dutch design and cooking, directly on the Damrak, a few steps from Dam square, famous for its 3-course menu of typical Dutch food, “Hollands Keuze Menu” for DFl. 46.
The wood-carved four giant horse-wagons hanging from the beamed ceiling dominate the comfortable and spacious dining room with nice furniture of round tables. The walls are heavily paneled, alternately hung with old and young paintings.
Hollands Keuze Menu:
• Haring met roggebrood = herring on black bread.
• Ragût van Hollandse garnalen = ragout of Dutch shrimp.
• Gefrituurde Goudse kaasschijf = fried slice of gouda cheese.
• Nagelhoutham mt Hollandse meloen = dried beef with Dutch melon.
• Capucijners met alles erop en eraan = marrowfat peas with garnish.
• Sudderlapjes met garnitur = braised Dutch beef Haarlem style.
• Grootmoeders kip in’t pannetje = pork chops, granny’s style.
• Gestoofde kabeljauw met mosterdsaus = braised salt-cod with mustard sauce.
• Zuurkool met kuitham = sauerkraut with bone-ham.
• Gegrilde zalmfilet met bieslooksaus = grilled salmon with chives.
• Boerenjongens met vanilleijs = ice-cream with liquored raisins and whipped cream.
• Amsterdamse boterkoek met slagroom = Amsterdam buttercake with whipped cream.
• Vers gestoofde peertjes met slagrrom = fresh stewed pears with whipped cream.
• Maastrichtse appelepröl = apple cake from Maastricht.
• Bitterkoekjespudding = maccaroon pudding.

Sama Sebo
P. C. Hooftstraat 31. Phone: 662 8146. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DFl.105 ($63) for two. All major cards. (A3).
The undisputed king of Rijsttafel and Indonesian cuisine is 500 meters from Leidseplein and 100 meters from Rijksmuseum. The owner, Sebo Woldringh, takes care of keeping up standards in the kitchen, but lets the service more or less have its own way. With or without reservations you have to wait in the adjoining pub for your coveted table in this crowded and happy restaurant.
The efficient waiters dance around. Decorations are cheerful, including flowers and lamps. The cane chairs are comfortable. The beer flows freely and the small room is soon filled with laughter. Most people seem to order the 25 course Rijsttafel at DFl. 37, but some make to do with fewer courses, such as a seven-course Nasi Goreng or a six-course Bami Goreng at DFl. 18.
The dishes are kept warm on candle trays. You bring one course at a time to your own plate and eat it with steamed rice and spices. There is chicken soup, spiced salad, crispy prawn bread, soy bean cake, sweet potatoes, pan-fried sprouts, chopped peanuts, pork in soy sauce, mutton in madura, fried chicken, mixed grill, prawns, grilled coconuts, fried bananas etc.

Sancerre
Reestraat 28. Phone: 627 8794. Fax: 623 8749. Price: DFl.150 ($90) for two. All major cards. (A2).
A French restaurant in the charming Pulitzer hotel. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Seepaerd
Rembrandtsplein 22. Phone: 622 1759. Price: DFl.130 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Right on Rembrandtsplein, this restaurant offers a worthy example of Dutch seafood cooking.
Comfortable cane chairs, sewing-machine tables, aquariums, fish posters and old steering wheels. A fireplace is at the far end of the ground floor dining room, very romantic in the evening. The first floor dining room is not as cozy.
• Viessoep = fish soup.
• Scholfilets = pan-fried sole fillets with deep-fried potatoes and salad.
• Sliptongetjes = pan-fried Dover sole fillets with deep-fried potatoes and salad.
• Fresh fruit and ice cream.

Sichuan Food
Reguliersdwarsstraat 35. Phone: 626 9327. Fax: 627 7281. Price: DFl.125 ($75) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A Chinese restaurant in the main restaurant street in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Silveren Spiegel
Kattengat 4. Phone: 624 6589. Hours: Closed Sunday & lunch. Price: DFl.165 ($99) for two. All major cards. (B1).
In two houses from 1614, serving as a restaurant for the last two centuries, opposite the Renaissance hotel, nestling under Ronde Luterse Kerk, 400 meters from the Damrak avenue, decorated in old Dutch style.
The bar is on the ground floor and the intimate and original dining room is upstairs. It has a low ceiling and the floor is not quite horizontal. Beams are in walls and the ceiling. The curtains and tablecloths and checkered. This is a cozy place with comfortable atmosphere and excellent service.
• Clear fish soup with vegetables, shrimps and mussels.
• Entrecote steak.
• Profiteroles.

Speciaal
Nieuwe Leliestraat 142. Phone: 624 9706. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DFl.80 ($48) for two. All major cards. (A1).
An economical Indonesian restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Swarte Schaep
Leidsedwarsstraat 24. Phone: 622 3021. Fax: 624 8268. Price: DFl.180 ($108) for two. All major cards. (A3).
Stylish restaurant in a corner building from 1687 overlooking Leidseplein square, emphasizing pleasant, romantic and Dutch decorations, offering surprisingly good food in spite of that. Chef de Bogard even has a gastronomic menu that creates a romantic banquet. The menu changes frequently.
We have to climb steep and narrow stairs to reach a small and elegant dining room on the second floor. There are extensive chandeliers, dark and heavy paneling, stained windows, copper kettles and polished antiques. The best tables are beside the windows. Table service is elegant.
• Smoked salmon with avocado and fowl liver paté.
• Lamb soup with coriander.
• Snail ravioli in balsamico.
• Lobster paté and partridge on red cabbage.
• Veal cutlet and lamb saddle in rosemary.
• Mixed desserts.

Tom Yam
Staalstraat 22. Phone: 622 9533. Fax: 420 1388. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A Thai restaurant a few steps from the Waterlooplein opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tout Court
Runstraat 13. Phone: 625 8637. Fax: 625 4411. Price: DFl.200 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A2).
French quality cuisine emanates from a small restaurant in a side street parallel to Leidsegracht and 200 meters from Leidsestraat. It is the home base of chef John Fagel and recently popular with Dutch celebrities.
The 1st floor dining room is tight and crowded, rather comfortable but not very stylish. Service is smiling in a happy atmosphere. Several four and six course menus are offered.
• Monkfish with leeks in lobster gelé.
• Clear chicken soup.
• Aubergines and crab meat in saffron sauce with rice.
• Apple wine and calvados sorbet.
• Wild duck with mushrooms, cherries and cherry sauce.
• Cheeses and desserts from trolley.

Treasure
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 115. Phone: 623 4061. Fax: 640 1202. Price: DFl.160 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B1).
One of the best Chinese restaurants is just a few steps from the Koninklijk Paleis and Nieuwe Kerk, exactly in the city center. It is heavily decorated in modern Chinese, with a pagoda roof inside, a waterfall in the lobby, paintings, flowers and an aquarium.
The specialty are dim sum for lunch, available in many variants. One of them includes deep-fried prawns with wonton soup and warm dragon cookies; steamed rice in vine leaves; and a few varieties of meat and fish balls. Such a lunch came to Fl. 65 for two.
• Dim Sum.

Tuynhuys
Reguliersdwarsstraat 28. Phone: 627 6603. Fax: 627 6603. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DFl.170 ($102) for two. All major cards. (B2).
Very attractive eatery in the main quality restaurant street crossing Leidsestraat, with an open-air terrace at the rear. This warm place has a singular atmosphere of Portuguese sunshine. It offers a 3-course dinner for DFl. 58 and a 4-course dinner for DFl. 79. Try to book on the main floor rather than on the upstairs balcony.
The decorations are simple and effective, evoking memories of Mediterranean villas. The main dining room has a high ceiling, lots of large plants and a few round columns. The functional furniture of graceful, wrought iron in chandeliers and candelabras, tables and chairs fits the spacious surroundings. The service is unusually friendly.
• Gemarineerde tonijn op kruidensalade met Provençalse vinaigrette = delicately marinated tuna in herb salad with Provence style vinagrette.
• Gebakken gambas met knoflookgras = Dublin prawns with tai soi sauce.
• Dorade met brandade van stokvis en paprikaravioli’s = sea bream with brandade of salt cod and sweet pepper raviolis.
• Hazerijfilet met eekhoorntjesbrood en wilde rijst risotto = saddle of hare with boletus and wild rice risotto. Terrine van mundolees met sjalotten en bospaddestoelen = beef terrine with shallots and wild mushrooms. Gebraden fazant met in champagne gestoofde zuurkool = roasted pheasant with sauerkraut stewed in champagne.
• 3 soorten kaas met notebrood = a selection of three cheeses with bread.
• Dessert naar keuze = dessert of you choice.
• Parfait van Mandarine Napoléon met Italiaans schwin = mandarin parfait.
• Gegratineerde ananas met passiervrudensabajon en cocosijf = gratinated pinapple with passion fruit.

Tÿrkiye
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169. Phone: 622 9919. Hours: Closed at lunch. Price: DFl.140 ($84) for two. All major cards. (B2).
A good representative of the Eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East, only 50 meters from the Dam square, offering a Turkish band and a belly dancer in addition to food.
It is a big room, all in red. The ceiling is red, the carpet is red, the linen is red, the waiter shirts are red. Wall carpets, palm trees and multicolored lamps. The waiters wear embroidered vests.
• Thick bean soup.
• Saddle of lamb with saffron rice, potatoes, vegetables salad and two sauces.
• Turkish caramel pudding.
• Strong Turkish coffee.

Vermeer
Prins Hendrikkade 59. Phone: 556 4885. Fax: 624 3353. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday. Price: DFl.230 ($138) for two. All major cards. (B1).
Very cozy, tastefully furnished in an old house, incorporated into the Barbizon Palace hotel, beside the St Nicolas church and opposite the central railway station. The well-known Ron Schouwenburg is in charge in the kitchen.
The dining room is bright and simple, sparkling with quality table service, surrounding flower arrangements. The chairs are comfortable and some of the furniture is antique. A daily dinner of DFl. 120, including a new wine with every course; and a daily gourmet course of five courses, also for DFl. 120. The service is good and the wine list is extensive.
• Feuilleté of sautéed chicken livers, ham and warm oysters, served with braised endive and apple dressing.
• Salmon confit with wilted cos lettuce and sautéed chanterelles.
• Steamed fillet of turbot served with mushrooms, fennel cream and a plantain galette.
• Monkfish medallion roasted on sea salt and served with basil flavored eggplant capote and peppers.
• Roast wild duck with braised celery and gingered corn fritters.
• Souffle chaud au mascarpone = basil flawored mascarpone soufflé with Cavaillon melon.
• Compote de fruits d’ete sous sa croute croustillante accompagné de glace a la crème fraiche = fruit crumble with crème fraiche ice-cream.

Vijff Vlieghen
Spuistraat 294. Phone: 624 8369. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DFl.200 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A2).
The famous Amsterdam restaurant has been operating in the same place since 1627, 400 meters from Dam square. It is in four adjoining houses. One of the dining rooms, called the Rembrandt room, has etchings that are said to be made by him. The restaurant offers 50 different genevers.
The furnishings are sometimes as old as the four houses themselves. The wooden paneling is dark and heavy. The wooden chairs and banks are not always comfortable. Big brass chandeliers, paintings, antique books, brass and bottles decorate the several small dining rooms. It would be fun to sit there even if the food were inferior. But it is not.
• Cold partridge with rhubarb mousse.
• Halibut paté with salmon sauce.
• Game soup with egg and capers.
• Poached redfish with lobster sauce and spinach.
• Lemon and chablis sorbet.
• Sweetbreads with salad.
• Kiwi fruit in kiwi sauce.

1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson

Paris introduction

Ferðir

History

Paris has for centuries been one of the centers and magnets of the world. When the Romans conquered it in 55 B.C. it wge on the Seine islands, inhabited by the Parisii tribe. It grew in Roman times and became the capital of France at the beginning of the Middle Ages.

Since then Paris has been the European center of religion and politics, learning and arts, quickly overtaking Rome and only yielding to New York after the Second World War. Sorbonne is one of the oldest universities in the world and for centuries the most famous one.

Paris is rich in monuments from most periods of its history. In spite of that it has not rested on its laurels. It is also famous for modern and avant-garde design, as can be seen at the Louvre pyramid, the Centre Pompidou and the Défense.

Life

Paris is the city of elegance and style. People conduct themselves in the streets as kings and queens. Elegance is everywhere, from hotel and restaurant decoration to everyday clothing. What would be considered casual elsewhere would be considered shabby and vulgar in Paris. The clean and efficient and stylish Metro is a symbol of the classy status of Parisians.

Parisians consider themselves to be citizens, discussing politics, design and cuisine as eloquently as ancient Roman orators, balancing the abandon of the south and the restraint of the north. They are proud and self-sufficient, and consider themselves to be equal to anybody, including kings and popes. On foreigners this often wrongly translates as haughtiness.

Paris is a lively city of liberal inhabitants. Its nightclubs are world leaders. Its vibrant sidewalk cafés constantly evoke fond memories in the minds of visitors to Paris. The home team and visitors hang around in cafés, squares and streets to kill time and observe fellow humans. Champs-Élysées and the boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain are the main centers.

Sights

Paris is the most beautiful metropolis in the world, crammed with famous churches and palaces, squares and avenues. Its center is the largest tourist city in the world. There are five kilometers as the crow flies from Arc d’Triomphe to Notre Dame and from Montmartre to Montparnasse. In no city center has the traveler more things to cover.

Not only does the city boast of centuries of basilicas and mansions, plazas and boulevards. It also excels in the necessities of life for travelers. Nowhere is a greater conglomeration of excellent restaurants and hotels, some of them even at a reasonable price. It is based on the natural culinary artistry and architectural taste of the Parisians.

Canada

35 Avenue Montaigne. Phone: 4443 3200. (B3).

United Kingdom

16 Rue d’Anjou. Phone: 4266 9142.

United States

2 Avenue Gabriel. Phone: 4296 1202. (C3).

Accident

Phone: 15.

Ambulance

Phone: 15.

Complaints

When you start complaining, every true Frenchman suddenly stops understanding English.

Dentist

Phone: 4337 5100.

Fire

Phone: 18.

Hospital

Centre Médical Europe, 44 Rue d’Amsterdam, tel. 4281 9333 is inexpensive. American Hospital, 63 Boulevard Victor-Hugo, tel. 4641 2525, and British Hospital, 3 Rue Barbés, Levallois, tel. 4758 1312, are private hospitals.

Medical care

Phone: 4337 7777.

Pharmacy

Pharmacie Dhéry, Galerie des Champs, 8th, 84 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, tel. 4562 0241 is open day and night.

Police

Phone: 17.

Precautions

There is very little petty or violent crime in Paris.

Banks

Hours: 9-16:30 weekdays.

At airports and railway stations they keep longer hours and are also open during weekends.

Credit cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation.

Electricity

French voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Paris hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing. Small hotels can be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. Some of them are exquisite gems. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays. “Deux lits” rooms with two beds are generally preferable to “grand lit” rooms with one bed of French marital size and are often larger.

We only include hotels with private bathrooms, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our afternoon naps. The price ranges from FFr. 210 to FFr. 1,700, excluding breakfast.

We try to avoid the insubstantial breakfast at hotels in Paris. More tasty and economical is the coffee with baguettes or croissants on the corner café patronized by the locals. Breakfast is in most cases included in the stated price, as that is the normal price quoted.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some expensive hotels in Paris are in fact inferior to our selection of small hotels in old city mansions.

Money

The currency in France is the Franc, FFr., divided into 100 centimes. There are paper money for 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 FFr., and coins of a value up to 20 FFr.

Shopping

Most shops are open 10-18 all days except Sundays. Some small shops are closed during lunch.

Street numbers

Streets are numbered in the downriver direction and away from the Seine. Odd numbers are on your left side as you go up in numbers.

Tipping

A 15% service charge is generally included in restaurant bills. Some guests leave change up to the nearest FFr. 10. Taxi drivers expect at least 10% from foreigners, guides 10%, porters FFr. 5 per bag, toilet attendants, doormen and cloakroom attendants FFr. 2.

Toilets

Toilets are variable, but getting better all the time. You can use those of cafés for the price of a cup of coffee.

Tourist office

The Office du Tourisme has its head office at 127 Avenue de Champs-Élysées, 8th, open 9-18, tel. 4952 5354 and 4720 8898. Other offices are at the main railway stations and the Invalides airport station.

Water

Tap water is drinkable but many use bottled water as a precaution.

Accommodation

The Tourist Board offices seek accommodation for travelers. At Roissy / Charles de Gaulle airport there is an illuminated map showing vacancies and prices. Your can dial free of charge to individual hotels. Accommodation in private homes in all price categories is arranged by Paris Accueil, 8th, 23 Rue de Marignan, tel. 296 1426, open daily 9-19.

You should consider staying in one of the tiny hotels in old mansions, which have been transformed with French taste and love into personal and exquisite gems. Paris has far more of such elegant hotels than other world cities. Some of them are even cheaper than ordinary hotels elsewhere. Usually they are heavily booked so that you must reserve months in advance.

The season in Paris hotels covers the whole year. Any period can be difficult due to exhibitions and congresses. The expensive Paris hotels are as a group probably the most expensive hotels in the world.

Airport

The bus to Roissy / Charles de Gaulle airport leaves every 15 minutes from Porte Maillot. The trip takes one hour. Check-in at the airport is one hour before departure. All airlines except Air France use Terminal 1. Dial 742 5226 for current information on flight arrivals and departures.

Boats

Tourist boats leave for Seine trips from Pont Neuf, Quai Montebello, Port de la Bourdonnais, Port de Suffren and Place de la Conférence.

News

International Herald Tribune, which is published in Paris, and other important foreign newspapers are available at many kiosks in central Paris. The main French newspaper is Le Monde. There are six TV channels, TF1, FR2, FR3, M6, Are and La Sept, all in French, and additionally cable channels in many hotel rooms, including CNN and Sky.

Information on what is on is available in the weeklies Pariscope and Officiel des Spectacles in French and in the monthly Paris City in English. These papers are sold at most newsstands.

Phone

The French country code is 33 and the local code for Rome is 1. The foreign code from France is 19.

Post

The main post offices are at 52 Rue du Louvre, tel. 233 7160, and 71 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, tel. 359 5518, both open day and night.

Railways

The French railway system is inexpensive and effective. The TVG trains travel at speeds up to 300 km (185 miles) per hour.

Taxis

Phone: 200 6789.

You can wave cabs down in the streets. If you phone, the meter ticks on their way to you. Cabbies are generally honest but amazingly ignorant about the Paris map.

Traffic

Rush hours are 7:30-9 and 17-19. The underground Metro is probably the cleanest and one of the best in the world, open 5:30-1:15. It is convenient for getting around in the city. Cheap two-days, four-days and seven days tourist tickets are available with unlimited access to the whole system and all the busses. Some Parisians drive recklessly. Don’t drive yourself.

Coffee

French coffee is generally good. The cafés of Paris are meeting points and centers of society and culture.

Cuisine

French restaurants are the best in the world. The range and variety of French cooking is astounding. France is very rich in agricultural resources. There is a tradition of passion for cooking. Parisians love to eat out and to discuss cuisine and chefs, as others might discuss politics and politicians. Celebrated chefs are considered national monuments.

Western European and North American cooking is mainly derived from the French. The nearest rival to French cooking is Japanese cooking. In the last decades French chefs have emphasized their lead by inventing Nouvelle Cuisine, a light and lean version of the classic French cuisine, but more in line with modern considerations on health.

The last decade of the 20th Century has seen a resurgence in Cuisine de Terroir, earthy farmhouse cooking, partly as a counterweight to Nouvelle Cuisine and partly an evolution of farmhouse cooking under Nouvelle Cuisine influence.

Eating habits

The French do not eat much in the morning. They may have a café latte and croissants at the corner café. Lunch often starts at 13 and dinner at 20:30. Both lunch and dinner are hot meals and are equally important. The French like delicate food and consume it with due reverence.

Few French have drinks before eating as it spoils the palate. They are also careful with the wine and some only drink water. In good restaurants most people have bottled water though, l’eau minerale, often with gas, gaseuse.

Nouvelle Cuisine

French chefs have emphasized their position as the world leaders by inventing Nouvelle Cuisine, a light and lean version of the rich and classic French cuisine, but more in line with modern considerations on health.

The main rules of Nouvelle Cuisine are as follows: Raw materials are fresh, chosen according to the season, preferably not from the freezer and definitely not out of tins. Emphasis is put on seafood and vegetables.

Cooking times are shortened to conserve the taste and ingredients of the food. Precooking and reheating are abolished. Flour in sauces and soups is written off in favor of fumets and blenderized vegetables which are lighter on the stomach. Fats are used sparingly, pan-frying has decreased and deep-frying almost disappeared.

Prices

Prices have stabilized in France are on a par with other countries in Western Europe.

Restaurants

Rich and poor Frenchmen take interest in cooking and love to dine out. This tradition had made French restaurants absolutely the best in the world. Nowhere in the world is cooking as elevated as in France. Even fast food joints are good.

Lunch hour is 12:30-14, dinner 19:30-23. In most places the owner or some waiters understand some English. Paris restaurants are generally small and clean, sometimes accidentally decorated. They usually have linen tablecloths and linen napkins, most often white. Many restaurants offer set lunch menus at a lower price than dinner prices.

“Prix nets” or “service compris” on the menu means that a 15% service charge is included in the price.

Wine

French wine is absolutely the best in the world and priced accordingly. But the general quality is so high, that even the house wines are excellent. The French don’t drink plonk. The best French wine is graded in complicated ways which vary between regions, Bordeaux and Burgundy wines generally fetching the highest prices.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

København restaurants

Ferðir

Alsace
Ny Østergade 9 / Pistolstræde, 1101 K. Phone: 3314 5743. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the city’s more refined restaurants, in a pedestrian alley leading off Strøget. A part of it is a sidewalk restaurant and part is a conventional restaurant in a white-painted brick cellar.

There are lots of fresh flowers, green sofas along the walls and tiles on the floor. The room is in two parts one of which has a view into the kitchen. The wine list concentrates on Alsace.

• Clear truffle soup.

• Goose liver paté with toast.

• Oyster soup.

• Venison with chanterelles.

• Sauerkraut

• Butter-fried partridge with grapes.

• Grilled feta cheese

• Champagne sorbet.

Amalie

Amaliegade 11. Phone: 3312 8810. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In a street leading from Amalienborg, just 100 meters from the palace, an exquisite little lunch cellar with a low ceiling in a conservation protected house.

The white walls are decorated with old etchings, the tables with candles and crochet mats. The cooking is simple and excellent.

• Smoked eel.

• Cod roes.

• Fish dumplings.

• Beef tartar.

Belle Terrasse

Tivoli, Vesterbrogade 3, 1620 V. Phone: 3312 1136. Fax: 3315 0031. Hours: Closed in winter. Price: DKr.650 ($113) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The best restaurant in the Tivoli garden. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bernstorff

Bernstorffsgade 7, 1577 V. Phone: 3311 0668. Fax: 3315 1547. Hours: Closed dinner, Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.100 ($17) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Opposite the central railway stations and with Tivoli Gardens at its back, this restaurant offers some of the most reasonable prices in town.

It is clean, with gleaming white linen, decorated with items from the Tivoli Gardens. The main attraction is the reasonably prices lunch buffet. Service is very good.

• Salmon paté.

• Marinated salmon.

Cafe Victor

Hovedvagtsvej 8 / Ny Østergade, 1101 K. Phone: 3313 3613. Hours: Main room closed Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Just behind hotel Angleterre, 50 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a fashionable meeting place of young and affluent intellectuals.

It is open and cold and mainly noisy. The bar is more comfortable than the dining room. The place is really a café that offers a menu at lunch. The naked windows are immense and there are mirrors behind the bar. Everything seems to make sure that everyone sees everyone else, even from the outside. The service is good.

Caféen i Nicolai

Nikolaj Plads12. Phone: 3311 6313. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the southern transept of Sankt Nikolaj church, just a few steps from Strøget pedestrian street. There is plenty of room in all directions, especially up.

The coolness of the big, stained windows is offset by big paintings on the walls and dark beams in the ceiling.

• Fish soup with home baked whole-grain bread.

• Butter-fried cod roes.

• Orange marinated catfish roes.

• Danish goat cheese.

Copenhagen Corner

Rådhuspladsen, Vesterbrogade 1A, 1620 V. Phone: 3391 4545. Fax: 3391 0404. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Even if concentrating on tourist, this corner on Rådhuspladsen square is also a solid restaurant with correct prices, a worthy descendant of Frascati, which was here in the building that preceded the present one. The glassed-in front part evokes memories of the old sidewalk café.

It offers premium wines by the glass. The wine is drawn from the bottles with a Cruover without uncorking them.

• Warm-smoked salmon.

• Duck breast in calvados.

• Catfish in marinated vegetables.

• Oven-baked filet of beef.

• Pancakes with raisins and redcurrants.

Els

Store Strandstræde 3. Phone: 3314 1341. Price: DKr.450 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of Denmark’s nicest restaurant, in a side street leading off Kongens Nytorv, a few steps from the square. The house and its design are from 1853, including the restaurant furnishings, which evoke memories from Austrian luxury cafés. The surroundings, the atmosphere and the cooking combine to make a harmonious whole that is not reflected in the rather low prices.

The inner dining room is the most interesting part. Recently restored are the six big pictures which are painted directly on the wood walls. The tables on the carpeted floor are of white and blue porcelain tiles. The atmosphere is unhurried and dignified and enhances the good service and still better cooking. The menu changes twice a day. The wine list is extensive.

• Guinea fowl with honey and orange sauce.

• Seafood chowder with mushrooms and herbs.

• Smoked salmon with truffles.

• Witch flounder with salmon mousse and salmon caviar.

• Turbot in cognac fumé.

• Charolais tournedos with herb mousse and tomatoes.

• Saddle of venison with truffes and Madeira.

• Peach pie with blackcurrant jelly and strawberries

• Cognac pie with whipped cream and blueberries.

• Mountain cheeses with grapes.

Era Ora

Torvegade 62, 1400 K. Phone: 3154 0693. Fax: 3185 0753. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C3).

The best Christianshavn restaurant, rather expensive, on the main throughfare. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Escoffier

Dronningens Tværgade 43, 1302 K. Phone: 3315 1505. Fax: 3315 4405. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A beautiful and tasteful restaurant adjoining Hotel Christian IV, a few steps from Kongens have.

The ceiling is dark blue and the walls are yellow. Large and modern paintings and other works of art give the tone. Large chairs have blue, red and golden upholstery with African designs. White linen and candles are on the tables. Service is good.

• Bagt torske souffle med svampe i persille-hvidløgs marinade = baked cod soufflé with mushrooms in a marinade of parsley and garlic.

• Perlhøneterrin anrettet på stegt pære i balsamico = guinea hen on baked pear.

• Glaceret okse tournedos med ristede skorzornerødder og sennepskorn sauce = glazed beef tournedos with mustard sauce.

• Sesamebagt laks med spinat-dild mousse og hummercreme = salmon baked in sesame with a mousse of spinach and dill and lobster sauce.

• Gratineret brie med piment og ribs i oliven olie = gratinated brie cheese with redcurrants in olive oil.

• Valnøddekage med vanille syltede vindruer = walnut cake with vanilla pickled grapes.

Fiskekælderen, Den Gyldne Fortun

Ved Stranden 18, 1061 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best fish restaurants huddle together in the former fish market area at the canal facing Christiansborg palace, only 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. One of the best is in a corner house cellar from 1796, small and tight, heavily furnished.

Knowledgeable and energetic waiters are friendly. The best part is the delicate, modern cuisine. Poaching and steaming are much in use, keeping the delicate taste of good an fresh seafood better than different types of frying. Avoid the fish items in the written menu as they can be frozen. Choose from the daily offerings chalked on blackboards on the walls.

• Mussels in the shell, poached in white wine. garlic and spices.

• Vineyard snails in the shells with salmon mousse and Burgundy sauce.

• Grilled lobster.

• Poached Dover sole with salmon mousse.

• Steamed ocean trout in white wine, with salmon and sturgeon caviar.

• Poached turbot in white wine, with wild mushroom sauce.

• Flambéed figs with pistachio ice-cream.

Fregatten Sct Georg III

Vesterbrogade 3, Tivoli, 1630 V. Phone: 3315 9204. Price: DKr.660 ($115) for two. All major cards. (A3).

An old frigate has been dumped into the middle of the lake in the eastern part of the Tivoli garden and serves as an restaurant with amusing ambience. In summer there is also dining on the deck.

Walls and ceilings are curved, just as one would expect in a ship. Everything is made of massive wood. You will not forget that you are aboard a ship. The sitting is close and the napkins are of paper. Food is acceptable and service barely so.

• Tre slags danske sild = three types of marinated herring.

• Graved laks med salat af fennikel = dill marinated salmon with fennel salad.

• Letsaltet andebryst kogt i krydderlage med lun løgkompot, svesker og rosiner = lightly salted duck boiled in herbs, with stewed onions, prunes and raisins.

• Lun flæskesteg fra Skallebølle med råmarineret rødkål = pork with marinated red cabbage.

• Danske oste fra Tebstrup, Them, Aså og Fanø = four Danish cheeses.

• Ris a la mande = spiced rice and cream.

Godt

Gothersgade 38, 1123 K. Phone: 3315 2122. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Husband-and-wife Corin Rice and Marie-Anne Ravn started this tiny restaurant for twenty guests in 1994 only 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv, on the stretch between Adelgade and Borgergade. It immediately took top honors for cooking and ambience.

The dining room is on two floors, with simple and tasteful furnishings, good linen on the tables. Marie-Anne takes good care of the guests and explains both the menu and the wine list. There is only one menu of four courses, changing every day.

• Ande-borstj med bacon = thin slices of duck with bacon.

• Søtunge og laks på frisk spinat med basilikum sauce = Dover sole and salmon on fresh spinach with basil sauce.

• Kalvemørbrad med skysauce, kantareller i fløde, dagens grøntsager og kartofler = beef fillet in own juice, chanterelle mushrooms in cream sauce, with zucchini, carrots, beans, broccoli and potatoes.

• Hasselnøddekage med friske figner i solbærsauce og pocherede ferskener = hazelnut cake with fresh figs in blackcurrant sauce and marinated plums.

Gråbrødre Torv 21

Gråbrødre Torv 21, 1154 K. Phone: 3311 4707. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.640 ($111) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best restaurant on the charming Gråbrødretorv in the center of the old city, situated on the southwestern corner of the square, frequented by people from the fashion industry.

Sparsely furnished and cozy, with candlelights, paintings, a wooden floor, small tables with yellow and white linen and large bouqets of orange roses. The service is rather good.

• Hummersuppe med cognac = lobster soup with brandy.

• Iransk sevruga caviar = Iranian sevruga caviar.

• Letsprængt gåsebryst med peberrod = lightly salt-marinated goose with horseradish.

• Frikassé af hummer and havtaske = pieces of lobster and monkfish.

• Kogt torsk med sennepssause = poached cod with mustard sauce.

• Krondyrmedaillon på rosmarinsky = venison medaillons in rosemary.

• Pralinéis med kaffecreme = confection ice with coffee creme.

• Chokoladeterrin med orange = chocolate terrine with orange.

Ida Davidsen

St. Kongensgade 70, 1264 K. Phone: 3391 3655. Fax: 3311 3655. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best and the most expensive “smørrebrød” restaurant in town, near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kanal-Kaféen

Frederiksholms Kanal 18. Phone: 3311 5770. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

An old and historical lunch pub hides in two ancient rooms on the canal opposite the back of Christiansborg palace.

The ceiling is low. There are ship models in the windows, pictures of ships on the walls. Regulars sit on cane chairs at the linen tables, enjoying good atmosphere and quick service.

• Marinated salmon.

• Smoked salmon.

• Pickled lamb.

• Home-made meat paté.

• Aged cheese.

Kokkeriet

Kronprinsessegade 64, 1306 K. Phone: 3315 2777. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A lightly trendy mixture of Danish, Far Eastern and French cooking recently opened in a lightly trendy setting near Kongens Have, about 400 meters from the royal Amalienborg palace. The cooking is surprisingly good for such a lightly trendy place.

The place is a little naked, but not uncomfortably so, dominated by a long aluminium bar and aluminium air-condition pipes in the ceiling. White colors are much in evidence, on the walls and in the linen. There are candlelights for romance and trendy pictures on the wall. The lightly casual service is nothing to write home about, spoiling the otherwise comfortable ambience.

• Grilled torsk i hummercremesuppe med porre = grilled cod in lobster cream soup.

• Kammusling fricasse med jomfruhummer og persille olie = mussels with lobster and parsley in oil.

• Chilimarineret fjordlaks med fyldte orientalske ruller = salmon in red chili and spring rolls with cabbabe and aubergine.

• Portvinsbraisere fasan med jordskokker og svampe = braised pheasant with mushrooms.

• Kokkeriets osteudvalg = blue cheese, feta, svendbo and gorgonzola cheese.

• Letfrossen chokoladekage med nøddekompot og pæresorbet = lightly frozen chocolate cake with nut compote and pear sorbet.

• Beaujolaissyltede blommer med rørt vanilleiscreme = plums pickled in red wine, with vanilla ice cream.

Kommandanten
Ny Adelgade 7, 1104 K. Phone: 3312 0990. Fax: 3393 1223. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A thoroughly designed restaurant on two floors in a charming 17th C. residence, on the south side of the street, near Grønnegade.

Gray walls of stone and gray upholstery and gray linen, silver-sprayed leaves and branches, mirrors and vases, silver cutlery and porcelain plates distinguish the restaurant, just as specially designed metallic chairs, halogen lights and a wooden floor. The service is professional.

• Frikassé af frølår og krydderurter, serveret med persillesoufflé og løgcreme = fricassé of frogs’ legs and herbs, served with parsley soufflé and onion cream.

• Gulerodsfeulleté med kalvebrisler og danske vinbjergsnegle, serveret med morkelsky = flaky carrot pastry with sweetbreads and snails, served with mushroom sauce.

• Grilled kalvetournedos med svampefritot, perlebyg, tomat og sauce diable = grilled veal tournedos with mushrooms, tomatoes and devil’s sauce.

• Frikassé of poularde fra Bresse, vintertrøfler, selleri og skorzonerødder = fricassé of Bresse hens, truffles and celery.

• Pandekager med appelsinkompot, hertil mandler og mandel sorbet = pancakes with orange compote, almonds and almond sorbet.

Kong Hans

Vingårdstræde 6. Phone: 3311 6868. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1100 ($191) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the main gourmet temples in town hides almost unmarked in a cellar about 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and 100 meters from pedestrian Strøget. You start with drinks at the bar watching the work of the chefs in the open kitchen before you are shown to a table in a beautiful and romantic dining room behind the kitchen. This place combines atmosphere and cuisine.

White cellar vaults with Gothic ribs dominate the room. Avant-garde works of art line the walls. The table service is elegant but the waiter service could be better. A coffee and cognac sitting room is behind the dining room, sparing diners the cigar smell. A choice of set menus of three, four, six and eight courses offers excellent cuisine at stratospheric prices.

• Goose liver and sweetbreads with pickled vegetables.

• Asparagus and sparrow eggs in butter pie with zucchini, mushrooms, salmon and sturgeon caviar.

• Salmon and lemon sole in cream sauce.

• Champagne sorbet.

• Milk lamb in sage sauce.

• Beef contrefilet with mushroom and red wine sauce.

• Apple pie with raspberry sauce.

• Cheeses and desserts from the trolley.

Kongkursen

Kompagnistræde 4, 1208 K. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In the oldest part of the city center, functioning both as a café and as a restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Krogs Fiskerestaurant

Gammel Strand 38, 1202 K. Phone: 3315 8915. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.1050 ($183) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A 1910 original of a fish restaurant in Empire style overlooking the royal palace complex on the other side of the canal, near Højbro plads, serving good seafood on the classic French side at high prices.

The green walls are covered with gilded mirrors and 19th C. paintings in white frames. The chairs are of mahogny. White linen, oil lamps and porcelain is on the tables. This is a refined place, typically Danish.

• Røget laks, æble chutney og jomfruhummer tatar = smoked salmon, apple chutney and lobster tartare.

• Hummerbisque serveret med hummer og tilsmagt med armagnac = lobster chowder with lobster and armagnac.

• Ristet pighvarfilet med ratatouille af tre slags løg og citronsmør = baked turbot fillet with a stew of tomatoes and three types of onion, and lemon butter.

• Grillet hummer med vanille, jordskokker og æbler = grilled lobster with vanilla, mushrooms and apples.

• Créme brûlé med mild stjerneanis og mocca detil vanillesorbet = créme brûlé with anis and mocca, served with vanilla sorbet.

• Chokolade pyramide med pistacie karamel = chocolate pyramid with pistacio caramel.

Leonore Christine

Nyhavn 9. Phone: 3313 5040. Price: DKr.600 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In the oldest Nyhavn house, from 1681, less than 100 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a nice little restaurant with big windows facing Nyhavn harbor. The house has been preserved in original condition. The furnishings under the white walls are simple and unostentatious.

It has been a popular meeting place of boisterous businessmen for many years. The service is rather good, even if uneven. The menu is short and handwritten, showing clear signs of Nouvelle Cuisine. The refined cooking is by far the best one in Nyhavn. The wine list is rather high in price.

• Venison tartar with dill and egg.

• Mushroom mousse.

• Duck breast with shallots and red wine fumé.

• Venison leg with goose fat.

• Candied pistachio ice-cream with prune sabajon.

• Desserts from the trolley.

Lille Lækkerbisken

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Centrally located on the canals. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Lumskebugten

Esplanaden 21. Phone: 3315 6029. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.440 ($77) for two. All major cards. (C1).

500 meters north from royal Amalienborg palace on the way to Den lille Havfrue, a former café has been successfully transformed into a modern culinary temple with simple and beautiful furnishings.

The house is white, long and narrow, with the main dining room in front, a bar and two smaller rooms behind. The rooms are bright, old and roomy, decorated with old photos and posters. The linen is gleaming white under flower and candle decorations. The offers of the day are chalked on a blackboard in addition to handwritten menus which change two times a day.

• Beef tartar.

• Skate stuffed with salad and salmon roes.
• Leg of venison with fumé of nuts, apples and blackberries.

• Chocolate cream cake with mashed fruit and ice-cream.

Nouvelle

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3313 5018. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.950 ($165) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A hidden gem on the pretty Gammel Strand canal street near Højbro plads, entered through an almost unmarked courtyard. It is an exquisite restaurant with perfect service and almost perfect French nouvelle cuisine.

The colors are grey, blue and curry. An enormous and original chandelier is in the middle of the tiled ceiling. Open cupboards of glasses and wine bottles are in some crannies. The butter trays, plates and ashtrays are of pewter. The linen is orange and dark blue. There are flowers and candles on the tables. Service is unobtrusive and watchful and technically perfect.

• Æg nouvelle fyldt med hummermousseline og sevruga caviar = marbled egg with lobster mousseline and sevruga caviar.

• Terrine af vesterhavsfisk og muslinger med peberrod = Nordsee fish terrine and mussels with horseradish.

• Terrine af gåsefoiegras med mango og mild pebergelé = goose liver terrine with mango and pepper gelé.

• Pighvarfilet med letrøget spæk, balsamico og morkler = turbot with lightly smoked bacon and mushrooms.

• Hel hummer med salvie, spinat og pecorino = whole lobster with sage, spinach and pecorino cheese.

• Svesker i armagnac med creme og sukkerkurve = prunes in armagnac with cream and sugar basket.

• Lille æbletærte serveret varm med syltede valnødder og rørt iscreme = warm apple pie with pickled walnuts and ice cream.

Ostehjørnet

Store Kongensgade 56. Phone: 3315 9133. Hours: Closed Saturday dinner & Sunday. Price: DKr.130 ($23) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An excellent cheese shop is in a cellar on a main street 400 meters from Kongens Nytorv square and Amalienborg square. Above the shop a small restaurant specializes in cheese.

Salads, cheeses and cold cuts are on display at the bar, as customary at Danish lunch places. The staff knows about cheeses. Beer is preferable to the inferior wine.

• Cheese platter with emmenthaler, camembert, bresse bleu, brie and feta.

Restaurationen

Møntergade 19, 1116 K. Phone: 3314 9495. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.550 ($96) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A top-flight husband-and-wife restaurant of Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen in a beautiful corner house on the west side of Möntergade and north side of Vognmagergade, only a few steps from Kongens Have and about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv. Bo is a well-known TV cook, both are wine tasting specialists, and the cuisine is one of the best two or three in Copenhagen.

Beautiful, large paintings line the white walls of this airy restaurant with an open layout and a view into the kitchen, white linen and blue porcelain on the tables. Service is excellent and informative. There is only one menu of five courses, changed two times each day.

• Bagt helleflynder piqueret med røget hellefisk, syltede Karl Johann svampe og persillecrem = baked halibut, spiced with smoked halibut, pickled mushrooms and parsley cream.

• Laks indbage i butterdej med safransmør, glaseret selleri og lakserogn = salmon in butter pastry with saffron butter, glazed celery and salmon caviar.

• Marinerede linser bagt i porer, vinaigrette med kørvet og phylladej bagt med tapande = marinated baked beans.

• Kalvemørbrad farseret med brisler og vintertrøfler, madeira-trøffelsauce, grønkål med fløde bagt i bacon og kartoffel gratin med parmesan = veal fillet with sweetbreads and truffles, madeira sauce and gratinated potatoes with parmesan.

• Valnødde-marengskage med honning-citronfløde = walnut meringue cake with honey and lemon cream.

• Hvid chokolade iscreme med chokolade tuilles og svedsker i ahorn-sirup = white chocolate icea cream.

• Bagt æble med karamelcreme og orangesauce med koriander = baked apple with caramel creme and orange sauce with coriander.

Saison

Hellerup Parkhotel, Strandvejen 203, 2900 Hellerup. Phone: 3962 4842. Fax: 3962 5657. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards.

The doyen of Danish chefs, Erwin Lauterbach, is back in Copenhagen and runs a restaurant in Hellerup Parkhotel in the suburb of Hellerup, on the coast road from Copenhagen to Elsinore, when you have just passed the Experimentarium exhibition and the Tuborg breweries. Lauterbach specializes in nouvelle vegetarian cuisine.

Beautiful, bright and spacious, with dark parquet and light furniture, red and golden curtains, brass and glass chandeliers, candlelights and white linen on the tables, and paintings by contemporary Danish artists. The kitchen is partly in view. Service by knowledgeable waiters is outstanding but rather busy at times. Good care is taken of the guests.

• Foie gras af and i terrine med briochebrød = duck liver in terrine with brioches.

• Crudité med grøntsager, safranmarinade og krydderurtetoast = crudité of vegetables, saffrom marinade and spiced toast.

• Jordskokker og blomkål med rosiner og kapers i muskatnøddesauce = mushrooms and cauliflower with raisins and capers in nut sauce.

• Grillet filet af torsk med porrer og linser = grilled cod fillet with lentils.

• Pandekager krydret med chili og serveret med hvidebønner i sauce med friske koriander = pancakes spiced with chile and served with white beans in sauce with fresh coriander.

• Makroner med kastanjeis og chokoladesauce = Macaroones with castagne ice cream and chocolate sauce.

• Anisparfait med karameliseret ananas = Anis parfait with caramelized pineapple.

Sankt Annæ

Sankt Annæ Plads 12, 1250 K. Phone: 3312 5497. Hours: Closed dinner; Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.150 ($26) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Alongside hotel Neptun, 200 meters from Kongens Nytorv square, a small hole for 32 lunchers sitting tight, if they can get through the narrow entrance. All the food is made on the premises.

This is a nice place, decorated with wagon wheels and old wagon drawings. There is no menu. Instead you trot to the bar, where the food is, and point out what you want to eat.

• Salmon with shrimp.

• Egg with shrimp.

• Marinated herring.

• Danish cheeses.

Skagen

Toldboldgade 2, Kælderen, 1253 K. Phone: 3393 8385. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: DKr.540 ($94) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A simple cellar restaurant with a seaside atmosphere and a short menu of standardized Danish-French cooking on the corner of Nyhavn and Toldbodgade, about 300 meters from Kongens Nytorv.

Benches of dark wood line the walls. There are ship lanterns, candles, stones and conches in the window-sills. The linen is white and gray. Seaside paintings enhance the ambience. Service is frendly but not very professional.

• Poulard frikasse med kammuslinger og salad = braised pullet pieces with mussels and salad.

• Andeleverterrine med svampe = duck liver terrine with mushrooms.

• Hummerfrikassé med urter = lobster pieces with herbs.

• Stegt lyssej med hummersauce = pan-fried saithe with lobster sauce.

• Kalvemørbrad med røgede svampe-sauce = veal with smoked mushroom sauce.

• Desserttallerken = mixed desserts.

Skildpadden

Gråbrødretorv 9, 1154 K. Phone: 3313 0506. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An inexpensive café-cum-restaurant on the friendliest square in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Slotskælderen

Fortunstræde 4, 1065 K. Phone: 3311 1537. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday & Monday. Price: DKr.200 ($35) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the better lunch restaurants in the center, near the pedestrian Strøget. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sorte Ravn

Nyhavn 14, 1051 K. Phone: 3312 2011. Fax: 3393 3511. Price: DKr.800 ($139) for two. All major cards. (C2).

A cozy and pretty restaurant with solid French cuisine on the quiet side of Nyhavn, between the Kongens Nytorv square and Holbergsgade.

A bright place with small and deep windows, white walls and white linen, red ceiling bricks, brown leather benches and comfortable Nordic chairs. The table service is elegant, includes oil lamps and large wine glasses. There are rough bast mats on the floor. The total ambience is one of warmth and relaxation, just as the service.

• Dybkaosrejer omviklet med bacon, serveret med beurre blanc, tomatconcassé og vilde ris = ocean shrimp with bacon, served with melted butter, tomatpuré and wild rice.

• To slags laks med estragonsky, urter, hakkede æg, citronglacerede østers, salat og purløgescreme = two types of salmon in tarragon fond, with herbs, ground eggs and oysters in lemon glace.

• Indbagt pighvarfilet med hummerkød, laksemousse, samt hummer-cognac sauce = baked turbot with lobster, salmon mousse and lobster-brandy sauce.

• Helstegt svampefarseret dyrefilet med bær, selleriepure, andelevermousse and Madagaskar-pebersauce = braised venison with mushroom puré, berries, celery puré, duck liver mousse and pepper sauce.

• Lettfrossen nødde nougatkage med appelsin og solbærsorbet = lightly frozen nut and nougat cake with orange and blackcurrant sorbet.

• Frisk frugtsorbet = sorbet of fresh fruit.

Spinderokken

Trommesalen 5, 1614 V. Phone: 3122 1314. Fax: 3122 3513. Hours: Closed lunch; Sunday. Price: DKr.400 ($70) for two. All major cards. (A3).

The heavily decorated restaurant 100 meters from the central railway station has remained unchanged for a long time, hiding behind two stained windows and a heavy oak door. This peaceful and lazy place is old-fashioned in cooking, in service and in decor.

The old and dimly lit dining room in front is preferable to the newer one on the side. Oak, copper, antiques, candles, woven fabrics are all around. Here people do not hurry, even at lunch, when they linger into the afternoon, chatting over a glass of cognac. Lately a cold lunch buffet has been the specialty of the house, culminating in many types of marinated herring.

• Breast of turkey with creamed eggs.

• Three types of marinated herring with black bread.

St Gertruds Kloster

Hauser plads 32, 127 K. Phone: 3314 6630. Price: DKr.1150 ($200) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A unique and an immense restaurant for parties and tourist groups in the cellar of a charming 14th C. convent, a few steps from Kultorvet square, on the north side of the street, unusually furnished and lit by 1500 candles without the help of electricity. Sadly service and cooking do not reflect the high standard of the design.

Brick vaults, arcades. old chairs and tables of massive wood, heavy staircases, beams and pillars, religious artifacts and noisy diners. Aperitifs are taken in nooks and crannies and coffee is served in a library of leather furniture. Service is in the style of conveyor belts, rather rude and inattentive. Butter is served in airline alumnium packages.

• Flødeglaceret hummersuppe med armagnac og hummerkød = cream glazed lobster soup with armagnac and lobster chunks.

• Friskkogt hummer serveret i safranfløde, tilsmagnt med hvid bourgogne og dild = poached lobster in saffron cream, with white wine and dill.

• Andebryst letsalted og stegt på grill, serveret med risted andelever, estragonsauce, dagens grøntsag og kartoffel = lightly salted duck grilled and served with roasted duck liver, tarragon sauce, vegetables of the day and potatoes.

• Helstegt oksemørbrad serveret med kraftig trøffelsauce, hertil sauteret frisk spinat, ristede svampe = beef fillet with truffle sauce, sautéed spinach and roasted mushrooms.

• Letfrossen appelsinkage med nøddekrokant og hindbærpuré = lightly frozen orange cake with nut croquant and raspberry puré.

• Skobærparfait med karamelfløde og friske jordbær = parfait of berries from the wood with caramel cream and strawberries.

Sticks ‘n Sushi

Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 K. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: DKr.250 ($43) for two. All major cards. (A2).

One of the best Japanese restaurant in town, in the Kong Arthur hotel, near the central lakes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Thorvaldsen

Gammel Strand 34, 1202 K. Phone: 3332 0400. Fax: 3332 0797. Hours: Closed Sunday & in winter dinner. Price: DKr.350 ($61) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Conveniently located opposite the palace island. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tivolihallen

Vester Voldgade 91. Phone: 3311 0160. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: DKr.120 ($21) for two. All major cards. (B3).

The baccalao saltfish center in town is in a 125 year old cellar just behind the city hall, 300 meters from Rådhuspladsen. You either order your baccalao by phone or wait for 25 minutes to get the exquisite delicacy on your plate, overcooked in the Icelandic manner.

Middle-aged regulars sit on worn benches and torn chairs in two tired and cozy rooms to devour big portions of baccalao and other grandmother’s dishes. Everything is clean and the linen is gleaming white. There is no menu and no price list.

• Saltfish, Icelandic way.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Venezia introduction

Ferðir

Art

Venetian painters, born there or living there, were for centuries among the best artists of Italy. They did not introduce e Gothic style or the Renaissance style, but they took them up and made a tradition of them.

Venetian art was born of Constantinopel roots and mixed the Byzantine style with the Gothic one. Mosaics and gilding characterize the first Venetian artists such as Paolo and Lorenzo Veneziano. Then came Jacopo Bellini, the brothers Gentile and Giovanni Bellini, Andrea Mantegna, Bartolomeo Vivarini and Vittoro Carpaccio with sharp paintings at the early Renaissance.

The heyday of Renaissance can be seen in the play of light and shade in the paintings of Tiziano, Tintoretto and Paolo Veronese. The main Venetian artists during the Baroque and Rococo periods were Canaletto, Pietro Longhi, Giambattista Tiepolo and Giandomenico Tiepolo. In almost all the many churches in Venice there are works of art by these world famous artists.

Carnivale

The Venetian carnival is the oldest carnival in the world, started in the 11th C. Originally it was an on-going feast of a two-month duration, but now it goes on for ten days before the start of Lent in February. People wear masks and costumes and try to go wild. Many costumes are fantastic and the masks are a main souvenir item of Venice.

Gondolas

Gondolas are one of the main characteristics of Venice, built according to a thousand year old design. They are asymmetrical, with a leftward curve, to compensate for having only one oar. They are all black, 11 meters long, exactly built from nine woods, and cost £10000 each. When they were the main transport in town they numbered about 10,000 but now they are only 400.

When Venice became a tourist city the role of the gondolas changed from being a means of transportation into a romantic institution, where the oarsman sang arias for couples in love. The third stage was reached with Japanese tourists who sail in groups in several gondolas on Canal Grande with an accordionist and a retired opera singer. That is the main use of gondolas nowadays.

History

Venetians descend from the Veneti who lived in the Po delta in Roman times. Attacks during the great European migrations drove the people out in the lagoon fens, where the city was founded on 100 islands, in 421 according to Venetian tradition. They drove piles into the mud, built their houses on them and connected islands with the characteristic canals and bridges.

They faced the sea and soon became great sailors and merchants. Impassable fens defended the city on the land side and their ships on the sea side. They soon started trade with Constantinople, the main city of the world at that time and were influenced by Byzantine art. In the Middle Ages they expanded their power in the Mediterranean and were victorious over Byzantium in 1204.

When other Italian cities fought civil wars during the Renaissance, Venice was a stable republic of ca. 2000 nobles who elected a Doge. This aristocracy survived more or less intact for 11 centuries, until Napoleon put an end to it without battle at the end of he 18th C. Venice had started to decline in the 16th C. when the Atlantic Ocean surpassed the Mediterranean in trade.

Life

Venice is unique. The main traffic artery is a wide river lined with elegant palaces. Boats are used for all public transport and transport of goods. The rest of the traffic is pedestrian. There is no noise or air pollution from cars, which are none. The refreshing air from the ocean fills up with the natural sounds of waves and people’s conversation. There is no modern stress.

The city has become a single, giant museum of the great centuries of Venice. Still dozens of thousands of people live there, about half the population during the golden ages. Also dozens of thousands come in to work every morning and leave at night. The tourists add to these numbers. Venice is thus a living city, even if it has been on the decline for the last centuries.

The city is a continuos artwork and history of arts. Every church has some jewels by the old masters. Some of the old palaces have been converted into museums and other into hotels. It is full of restaurants offering good Adriatic seafood. It is full of boats, from the slow gondolas to the speedy water-taxis. It is a constant relaxation for culturally minded travelers.

Palazzi

Hundreds of palaces line the canal banks of Venice. Usually they have decorative fronts to the water and simple rear sides to pedestrian alleys. Usually they have four floors. On the ground floor were storerooms and offices. Reception rooms were on the first floor, the piano nobile. The family lived on the second floor and the servants on the third.

The oldest and most enchanting palaces are from the 13th C., in Byzantine style, with light and high arcades on slender columns, covering the entire width of the first floor. Palazzo Loredan is a good example. Most numerous are the Gothic palaces, from the 13th-15th C., characterized by pointed arches, pointed windows and lace windows. Palazzo Foscari is a good example.

There are heavier palaces in Renaissance style from the 15th-16th C., symmetrical and mathematical in design, with fluted columns and Corinthian capitals. Palazzo Grimani is a good example. From the 17th C. are finally very heavy Baroque palaces with exaggerated decoration and deep windows on the front sides. Ca’Pesaro is a good example.

Preservation

Venice has been sinking, especially in the 20th C. This results from the drying of land for the expanding industry in the neighboring towns of Mestre and Porto Marghera and from excessive use of fertilizer in the Po valley. The use of motor boats has also disturbed the canals and weakened the foundations of buildings. Preventive action has now slowed down the sinking.

Germany

Sottoportego Giustinian, Accademia. Phone: 522 5100.

United Kingdom

Palazzo Querini, Accademia, Dorsoduro 1051. Phone: 522 7207.

Accident

Phone: 113.

Ambulance

Phone: 523 0000.

Complaints

It is generally useless and a waste of time to complain in Italy. Instead try to look at the bright side.

Fire

Phone: 115.

Hospital

Ospedale Civile, Campo Santi Zanipolo. Phone: 523 0000.

Medical care

Phone: 118.

Pharmacy

Hours: Monday-Friday 8:30-12:30 & 16-20, Saturday 9-12.

Closed pharmacies have signs on their doors to point out where there is night duty. Opening times are also in Un Ospite di Venezia. Many minor drugs are available without prescription.

Police

Phone: 112.

The city police, Vigili urbani, wear blue uniforms in winter and white in summer. The state police, La Polizia, wear blue uniforms with white belts and berets. The military police, Carabineri, wear red-striped trousers. You can ask all three types for help.

Precautions

Don’t use a handbag. Keep money in inside pockets. Use cards as much as possible. Don’t keep passports in the same place as money. Don’t leave valuables in a locked car. Beware of gypsy children, especially in groups. Petty crime abounds, but there is very little violent crime in Rome.

Banks

Banking hours are Monday-Friday 8:30-13:30 & 14:45-15:45. Change foreign money in banks or at “cambio”-offices, not in hotels. Some banks only change foreign money during the morning hours. A bank is open 24 hours a day at the central railway station but often there is a long queue. At Marco Polo airport at Venice an exchange office is open all day.

Credit cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation. Their emergency freephone is 167 82 80 47. American Express has 722 82 and Diners Club has 167 86 40 64 (freephone).

Electricity

Italian voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Venetian hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing, if they have three or more official stars. But two-starred hotels can also be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays. Some hotels have been set up in famous palaces, which are still decorated with antiques.

It is more expensive to stay in Venice than elsewhere in Italy. You can stay inland and go by train or car to Venice in the morning, but this also costs some time and money.

Breakfast in Italian hotels is usually worthless, just as in French hotels. It is better to get a freshly pressed juice, newly baked bread and cappuccino at a corner café.

Money

The currency in Italy is the lire (L.). Paper money is dominant, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 50000 and 100000 lire (L.), increasing in size with their value. Coins are for 50, 100, 200 and 500 lire.

Prices

Prices in Venice are unusually high by Italian standards and are increasing on par with Western Europe.

Shopping

Shops are generally open 9-12:30, 15:30-19:30 in winter, 16-20 in summer. Sometimes they close earlier on Saturday. Many tourist shops are open all day and Sunday.

Street numbers

Houses in Venice are not numbered according to streets, but to districts. A hotel at the street of Calle largo 22. Marzo has the address of San Marco 2159. This can be frustrating for strangers who do not have further information on locations.

Tipping

A service charge is generally included in restaurant bills. Some guests leave a few thousand lire extra. Gondoliers do not expect tips. Taxi drivers expect at least 10% from foreigners. Porters expect L. 1000 per bag.

Toilets

There are some public toilets in the center. The toilets in cafés are sometimes not up to standard, but generally they are acceptable in restaurants. Many of them are for crouching and not for sitting. Bring the paper if you are not visiting a restaurant.

Tourist office

Piazza San Marco 71c. Phone: 522 6356.

Uffici Informazioni.

Water

Tap water is usually clean and tasty in Venice. In restaurants most people drink bottled water.

Accommodation

Tourist offices at the Marco Polo airport at Venice and at the Piazzale Roma car park building in Venice find hotel rooms for travelers. Rooms with “twin bed” are often larger that those with “double bed”. Rooms on the canal side are often quieter and brighter that those on the street side. Rooms in Venice proper cost more than others, but you save time and transportation costs.

Airport

Marco Polo. Phone: 260 9260.

A taxi takes 15 minutes from Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma in Venice and a bus takes 30 minutes, costing L. 5000. A public boat, Vaporetto, is 50 minutes to San Marco, costing L. 15000. A water taxi is 25 minutes to any location in the city, costing L. 130000

News

International Herald Tribune and some other foreign newspapers are available at many kiosks in Venice. The main Venetian newspapers are Gazzettino and Nuova Venezia. There are three TV channels, Uno, Due and Tre, and additionally cable channels in many hotel rooms, including CNN. Information on what is on in Venice is in the free booklet, Un Ospite di Venezia.

Phone

The Italian country code is 39 and the local code for Venice is 41. The foreign code from Italy is 00.

Post

Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Rialto.

The Italian postal service is inefficient. The main post office in Venice is in the Fondaco dei Tedeschi palace beside the Rialto bridge.

Railways

Ferrovia Santa Lucia. Phone: 71 5555.

The Italian railway system is inexpensive and effective. The Santa Lucia railway station in Venice is near Piazzale Roma at the west end of Grand Canal. The public water transportation system is centered on the station.

Taxis

Phone: 522 2303.

Water taxis is the fastest way and the most expensive way to get around in Venice.

Traffic

The simplest way of exploring Venice is by foot. The city is only 5 km x 2 km. The next best transport is by water bus. Line 1 stops almost at all stations in Grand Canal. A three-day pass to all lines costs L. 30000 and a seven-day pass costs L. 55000. The romantic way of travel is by gondola, which costs L. 70000 per 50 minutes in daytime and L. 90000 at night.

Coffee

Italians are the first-class nation of coffee culture. They drink all their coffee freshly ground in espresso machines. Most often they drink espresso or caffè = very strong; doppio = double the size of an espresso; cappuccino = espresso mixed with air-whipped milk. Bad coffee for tourists is called americano. Italians usually have their coffee standing at the bar.

Cuisine

Foreigners often think that Italian cooking consists mainly of pastas after pastas. In fact this is more complicated. Italians do not talk of Italian cooking, but of Venetian, Tuscan, Ligurian, Latin and so on. In this database we concentrate on Roman cooking, even if we include restaurants representing other types of Italian cooking.

Eating habits

Italians do not eat much in the morning. They may have an espresso and cornetto at the corner café or bakery. Lunch often starts at 13:30 and dinner at 20:30. Both lunch and dinner are hot meals and are equally important. Italians like food and consume it with abandon.

They are on the other hand careful with the wine and some only drink water. Tap water is very good and clean in Rome, coming in ducts from the mountains. In restaurants most people have bottled water though, aqua minerale, often with gas, gassata.

Menus

An Italian menu typically has five sections: Antipasti = starters; pasti or asciutti or primi platti = pasta courses; secundi piatti = fish or meat; contorni or verdure = vegetables and salads; dolci and frutti and formaggi = sweets, fruit and cheeses.

There are no rules on the number of courses in a menu. Some have a starter and then two pastas, one after the other. The usual thing is to have three courses. It could be a starter, a pasta and a meat course. Or it could be a pasta, a meat, a side course. Or a pasta, a meat and a dessert.

The price of a starter, pasta or a bottle of the house wine is usually two times the price of a side course or a dessert; and the price of a main course is usually three times the price. The prices in this database are usually calculated on the basis of a starter, a second course, a side course, a dessert, mineral water and coffee. All prices are for two persons.

Restaurants

Lunch hour is 13:30-15, dinner 20:30-23. In most places the owner or some waiters understand English. Venetian restaurants are generally small and clean, sometimes accidentally decorated. They usually have linen tablecloths and linen napkins, most often white.

Nowhere in the world is the service in restaurants better than in Italy. The waiters are generally quick and effective. They hurry with the courses until you arrive at the last course. Then everything slows down. It seems that Italians like to eat in a hurry and then to linger on over the wine glass or coffee. Quick service does not mean that the waiter wants to get rid of you.

Seafood

Many Venetian restaurants specialize in Antipasto di frutti di mare = mixed seafood as a starter. It offers samples of many tasty things such as:

Aragosta = lobster;

Calamari and Seppie = squid;

Cappe and Vongole = shellfish;

Cappesante = scallops; Folpi and Polipo = octopus;

Gamberi = big prawns;

Granceola = spider crabs; and

Scampi = Dublin Bay prawns.
Popular with locals is

Baccalà mantecata = plucked stockfish, mixed with olive oil, parsley and garlic. Common fish from the Adriatic are

Branzino = sea bass;

Rospo = angler fish;

Orata = gilt head;

Rombo = brill;

San Pietro = John Dory;

Sogliola = sole; and

Spigola = sea bass.

Generally they are best grilled.

Specialities

Seafood is the most important aspect of Venetian cooking. Otherwise one of the main specialties is Polenta = maize puré, often sliced and grilled. Another is Fegato alla veneziana = pan-fried calf liver with onions. Popular is Carpaccio = thin slices of raw beef with olive oil and salad. A classic course is Insalata mista = mixed salad, usually very good.

The most famous dessert of Venice is Tiramisù, a kind of a cheese truffle, spiced with coffee and chocolate. It derives from Byzantium and has spread from Venice through the West. Cheeses from the Veneto area are Asiago, Fontina and Montasio. Most restaurants also offer Grana, Taleggio and Gorgonzola.

Wine

The house wine is usually well chosen and economical, either bianco or rosso, white or red. Connoisseurs can have a look at the list to find something unusual, as no country in the world has as many different labels. Italian wine is generally good, sound and simple, but lacking in great growths. Italians do not take their wine as seriously as the French do.

The wine areas north and west of Venice are Veneto and Friuli. The best wines have both area denomination and grape variety on the etiquette. Some Merlot comes from Colli Euganei. Other good Veneto districts are Breganze, Piave, Gambellara, Pramaggiore and Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. In Friuli are Aquileia, Collio Goriziano, Colli Orientali, Grave del Friuli, Isonzo and Latisana.

Farther west, in the hills around Verona, there are still better known wine districts, such as Bardonlino, Valpolicella, Soave, and inside them still smaller and better areas, called Superiore and Classico at the top end.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Madrid hotels

Ferðir

Ambassador

Cuesta de Santo Domingo 5. Phone: 541 6700. Fax: 559 1040. Price: Pts.20800 ($166) without breakfast. All major cards. 163 rooms. (A2).

Near the opera and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Atlántico

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 531 0210. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

California

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 4703. Fax: 531 6101. Price: Pts.7900 ($63) without breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Carlos V

Maestro Vitoria 5. Phone: 531 4100. Fax: 531 3761. Price: Pts.12500 ($100) with breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (B2).

A small hotel on a peaceful pedestrian street in the shopping area between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The staff is helpful and cheerful.

Room no. 209 has a balcony overlooking the street, where a violinist and a flutist alternated in producing soft and gentle notes for hours on end. It is smallish and comfortable with old furniture and a neat bathroom.

Casón del Tormes

Rio 7. Phone: 541 9746. Fax: 541 1852. Price: Pts.12000 ($96) without breakfast. All major cards. 63 rooms. (A2).

A few steps from Plaza de España and Jardines de Sabatini. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Condes

Los Libreros 7. Phone: 521 5455. Fax: 521 7882. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) without breakfast. All major cards. 68 rooms. (B2).

Near Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cortezo

Dr. Cortezo 3. Phone: 369 0101. Fax: 369 3774. Price: Pts.11300 ($90) without breakfast. All major cards. 88 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza Benavente and 300 meters from Plaza Major. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Emperador

Gran Via 53. Phone: 547 2800. Fax: 547 2817. Price: Pts.14100 ($113) without breakfast. All major cards. 232 rooms. (A2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Europa

Carmen 4. Phone: 521 2900. Fax: 521 4696. Price: Pts.8200 ($66) without breakfast. No cards. (B2).

One of the best buys in town, an inexpensive hotel with friendly staff a few steps from Plaza Puerta del Sol.

Half the rooms have a sideways view to the Puerta del Sol and the others overlook a flowery atrium. Breakfast is not served and there is a breakfast café next door.

Room no. 214 is large and quaint with a sitting area near a balcony that has some view to the square. There is no motor traffic in the street and the windows are double-glazed, ensuring peace. There is no TV set and no air-condition. The large bathroom is fully tiled and functions well.

Francisco I

Arenal 15. Phone: 248 0204. Fax: 542 2899. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) without breakfast. All major cards. (A2).

On the street connecting Plaza Puerta del Sol and Plaza Oriente. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Inglés

Echegaray 8. Phone: 429 6551. Fax: 420 2423. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) without breakfast. All major cards. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza de Canalejas. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Italia

Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada 2. Phone: 522 4790. Fax: 521 2891. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Liabeny

Salud 3. Phone: 532 5306. Fax: 532 7421. Price: Pts.17900 ($143) without breakfast. All major cards. 224 rooms. (B2).

A comfortable hotel on a pedestrian street in the shopping district between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The hotel is Mexican owned and has many guests from Latin America. There is no traffic noise around it.

Room no. 201 is of a normal size, unusually well furnished. It has a luxurious bathroom of marble and tiles.

Mayorazgo

Flor Baja 3. Phone: 547 2600. Fax: 541 2485. Price: Pts.16100 ($129) without breakfast. All major cards. 200 rooms. (A2).

Well situated in a quiet location a few steps from Gran Vía, near Plaza de Españja.

The picturesque furnishings emulate a Castilian castle, both in the public areas and in the guest rooms. Prices of rooms are variable.

Room no. 323 is of the more inexpensive type, rather small and well furnished with a parquet and good carpets on the floor and equipped with a trouser press. The marble bathroom functions well.

Mercator

Atocha 123. Phone: 429 0500. Fax: 369 1252. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 89 rooms. (C3).

A few steps from Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and Jadrín Botánico. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Moderno

Arenal 2. Phone: 531 0900. Fax: 531 3550. Price: Pts.10500 ($84) without breakfast. All major cards. 100 rooms. (B2).

A practical hotel a few steps from the main square in central Madrid, Plaza Puerta del Sol.

The clean and faded hotel has parquet floors and polished furniture. Breakfast is not served, but the best breakfast café in town, Mallorquina, is around the corner.

Room no. 412 has an inside location. It has a parquet floor and all the amenities in the bathroom.

Palace

Plaza de las Cortes 7. Phone: 429 7551. Fax: 429 8266. Price: Pts.40000 ($320) without breakfast. All major cards. 436 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. Palace is the parliamentary hotel, handy for the next door parliament on the other side of Carrera de San Jeronimo. Prado Museum is on the other side of Paseo del Prado. Palace is thus in the middle of the action in Madrid.

There are extensive and luxurious saloons on the ground floor, including a circular coffee lounge with a glass roof. On the upper floors there are several lounges in the corridors and near the elevators. The building is from 1912 and has been refurbished according to the latest demands and fashions. Service is very good.

Room no. 106 is old-fashioned, rather large, furnished with inlaid wood, leather chairs and an exclusive carpet, in addition to all the comforts. The large bathroom has lots of tiles and mirrors. There is some noise from the street, but more quiet rooms at the rear are also available.

París

Alcalá 2. Phone: 521 6496. Fax: 531 0188. Price: Pts.11000 ($88) with breakfast. All major cards. 1204 rooms. (B2).

Perfectly situated just on Plaza Puerta del Sol, the center of Madrid, with many rooms overlooking the square.

It is also inexpensive, partly due to the lack of an elevator. It is gleaming with cleanliness and polish. The rooms which do not have a view to the square, overlook a flowery atrium.

Room no. 221 overlooks the square. The balcony is a perfect spot for observing the constant goings-on in the square from 7 in the morning to 5 in the morning. It has no TV set and needs none. The double glazing prevents noises entering the room when the window is closed. The parquet floor is well polished and the fully tiled bathroom functions perfectly.

Prado

Prado 11. Phone: 369 0234. Fax: 429 2829. Price: Pts.16500 ($132) without breakfast. All major cards. 47 rooms. (B2).

Between Plaza Santa Ana og Plaza Canovás del Castillo. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Regina

Alcalá 19. Phone: 521 4725. Fax: 521 4725. Price: Pts.11900 ($95) without breakfast. All major cards. 142 rooms. (B2).

On the main street leading to Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ritz

Plaza de la Lealtad 5. Phone: 521 2857. Fax: 532 8776. Price: Pts.49500 ($396) without breakfast. All major cards. 127 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Santo Domingo

Plaza Santo Domingo 13. Phone: 547 9800. Fax: 547 5995. Price: Pts.17500 ($140) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A2).

Between Gran Vía and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Suecia

Marqués de Casa Riera 4. Phone: 531 6900. Fax: 521 7141. Price: Pts.20000 ($160) without breakfast. All major cards. 119 rooms. (B2).

Just behind the parliament building, on a quiet square with light traffic, one of he first hotels in Madrid to offer non-smoking guest rooms.

A quaint coffee bar is on a platform inside the foyer. The personal gives a warm welcome.

Room no. 201 is on the small side, with sound-insulated windows out to he square, furnished with potted plants and some mirrors. It is in light, summer blue colors. The bathroom is very good.

Victoria

Plaza de Santa Ana 14. Phone: 531 4500. Fax: 522 0307. Price: Pts.23000 ($184) without breakfast. All major cards. 195 rooms. (B2).

Well situated at the two squares of Santa Ana and Ángel, two noisy centers of the main district of cafés and bars just south of Plaza Puerta del Sol.

This was formerly the lodging of bullfighters and Hemingway. Now it has been modernized inside. The facade though is a protected monument. An immense and luxurious lounge is on the ground floor. Most rooms have bay windows to one of the two squares.

The spacious room no. 306 has a bay window overlooking Plaza del Ángel. The quality furnishings are tasteful and the bathroom is luxurious.

Washington

Gran Vía 72. Phone: 541 7227. Fax: 547 5199. Price: Pts.14000 ($112) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A1).

A few steps from Plaza de España. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Amsterdam amusements

Ferðir

Boston Club
1 Kattengat. (B1).
One of the best discos for fashion-conscious grown ups is in the Renaissance hotel near the central railway station. You can even be seen there with a tie.

Melkweg
Lijnbaansgracht 234. Phone: 624 1777. (A2).
Behind Stadsschouwburg and Leidseplein is a disused milk factory behind a canal and a drawbridge. It is now an art center for young people. The door is locked so you must knock, but it is easy to buy a cheap 3-month membership card.
Inside there are exhibitions, plays, noise production, dancing and the technically best cinema outfit in town. Besides there are a few restaurants, for example one for vegetarians. Also a book market, a flea market, a bar and a tearoom.
People wander around until they find something to their liking. If everything is too far out, it is always possible to browse in the book market. The spot is open on full blast 21-01 and disco is after that.

Paradiso
Weteringschans 6. Phone: 623 7348. (A3).
A disused church, now a youth center, 100 meters from Leidseplein. It has for many years been a focus for modern popular music. At first there was pop, then punk, heavy rock and the newest waves. Sometimes the groups are unknown, sometimes world-known. It is not a spot for a quiet evening.

Shaffy
Keizersgracht 324. (A2).
A multi-culture center, avant-garde in theater, films, art, music and dance. You don’t have to know what is going on, just arrive and have a look. Some of the happenings will probably be tempting enough for you to stay on.

Drie Fleschjes
Gravenstraat 16. (B1).
Behind Nieuwe Kerk, a few steps from Dam, a sympathetic jenever tasting pub from 1650, old and worn, popular with businessmen from the neighborhood. Some companies have their private jenever casks on these premises. An amusing private closet for two in a corner.

Hoppe
Spui 20. (A2).
The first and original Hoppe, on Spui square, well known for important guests effortlessly and democratically mingling with the lower classes. It still has sawdust on the floor, completely tasteless furnishings and is almost always full to the brim.

Pilsener Club
Begijnensteeg. (B2).
In an alley leading off Kalversstraat to the Begijnhof garden, catering to bridge players from all social classes. It has sand on its white floor. The bridge players surprisingly sometimes are more noisy than other guests.

Pilserij
Gravenstraat 10. (B1).
In an alley behind Nieuwe Kerk, a few steps off Dam and Damrak, a dark and romantic pub in Art Noveau style, with a high ceiling and a balcony with hanging greenery over the rear saloon.

Wijnlokaal Mulliner’s
Kleine Lijnbaansgracht 267. (A3).
There is more than coffee to the Leidseplein area. Also some wine bars where Amsterdammers have a sip after work and before going home or to some entertainment venue. One of the best ones is Wijnlokaal Mulliner’s, 100 meters from Leidseplein.
It specializes in port wine of all ages, up to a little over half a century old. The bar is in almost a full circle in the middle. Customers stand at the bar or sit at small tables in the corners.

Wynand Fockink
Pijlsteeg 31. (B2).
In a narrow alley leading from Dam past the Krasnapolsky, this is an interesting jenever tasting pub in Amsterdam, tendered by the talkative philosopher Gijsberti Hodenpijl. This local with shuttered windows has remained unchanged for more than three centuries. Old wine bottles grace the walls. The bar counter is looking very old.
There are no seats. You just stand at the bar, bend down with your hands behind your back and take the first sip from the almost overflowing glass. These places are not meant for lingering, you just step in, take your drink and get lost.

Cafes

Bakke Grond
Nes 43. (B2).
A comfortable Belgian café on an alley leading off Dam, 200 meters from the square, connected with a Flemish cultural center, popular with theater spectators. It specializes in Belgian beer.

Blincker
St. Barbarenstraat 7. Hours: Opens 17:00. (B2).
In a maze of alleys south of Dam and east of Rokin, on two levels, with lots of glass and greenery, decorated with masks. It is convenient for theater spectators.

Café Americain
Leidsekade 97. (A3).
An important café in the city, at the main square of sidewalk cafés, Leidseplein. It is on the ground floor of the American hotel and is the best known part of its Art Noveau style. The decorations have official protection, including the strange chandeliers, beams and arches, velvet fabrics and stained windows.
Spioness Mata Hari celebrated her wedding here. For years this has been the place where local and foreign artists sit and talk for hours. In addition to coffee and cakes there are available inexpensive courses of the day, some snacks and a tourist menu.
The outdoor chairs are popular with tourists who meet here after shopping, but the real atmosphere is inside.

Café de Jaren
Nieuwe Doelenstraat. (B2).
Newspaper reading cafés are numerous and popular with the locals. This is beside hotel Doelen in the university area. It is a big room with a high ceiling, full of university students, some reading text books or magazines and others talking at full blast. A big balcony is on the Amstel river side. Many newspapers and magazines are in the English language.

Eijlders
Korte Leidsedwarstraat 47. (A2).
Two steps off Leidseplein, a café that doubles as a modern art gallery, still patronized by local artists. The tables are worn after the elbows of generations. It is happily more patronized by locals than by tourists.

Engelbewaarder
Kloveniersburgwal 59. Phone: 625 3772. (B2).
A simple and comfortably run-down café with wood floors, one of the main literary cafés in Amsterdam, with scheduled readings and Sunday afternoon jazz. It is a nice reading room on a rainy day.

Het Hok
Leidsekruisstraat. (A3).
Two chess cafés are side by side on the corner of Lange Leidsdwarsstraat, just 100 meters from Leidseplein. This is on the corner and the other is Domino. This one has more atmosphere. It is spacious and well patronized by regulars. Such chess cafés have for decades been a hallmark of Amsterdam.

Land van Walem
Keizersgracht 449. Phone: 625 3544. (A2).
Very popular and busy reading café on a canal a few steps from Leidsestraat. Its choice of foreign newspapers is unusually great, attracting travelers.

Morlang
Keizersgraacht 451. Phone: 625 2681. (A2).
A quiet and relaxing reading café just a few steps off Leidsestraat.

Pieper
Prinsengracht 424. (A2).
A typical pub near Leidsegracht, rustic and dark, accidentally furnished and comfortable, with a long history of fame.

Reijnders
Leidseplein 6. (A2).
One of the best known cafés in town, at Leidseplein, for a long time an artists’ hangout, but now just a place where local people meet over coffee while waiting to go somewhere else. There are some sidewalk tables. Inside there are lots of old wooden tables and chairs, rather unorganized. A billiard table is at the rear.
This is a folksy, dingy place with lots of good local atmosphere. Few tourist are seen there in spite of the location.

Scheltema
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242. (B2).
Almost immediately behind the Koninklijk Paleis, this cellar pub with creaking floors in former days attracted neighboring journalists with its fireplace and a big reading table in the center. It still is charming.

Upstairs
Grimburgwal 2. (B2).
Pannekoekenhuis, or pancake houses are typically Dutch cafés, offering big pancakes in endless variants. Ginger pancakes are the traditional ones. This pancake house is on the first floor of an extremely narrow house a few steps from Rokin. It can take only twelve guests at a time and they have to brave the almost vertical staircase. Picturesque, this one.

Albert Cuypstraat
(B3).
The main victuals market in the city, extending a few blocks to the east from the corner of Ferdinand Bolstraat. It has grown in later years because of the influx of Surinamese coming from the former colony of Dutch Guyana and of other people from afar, who have settled down in the Pijp quarter around the market.
Here you can get the most strange and exotic spices, fish and vegetables, fruit and flowers. The colors are brilliant, the choices are immense and inexpensive. The redolence is both exotic and charming. For example the flavor of pancakes, filled with meat and vegetables. Or of Barras, which is a type of pea dumplings.
The market is closed Sundays.

Artis Zoo
Plantage Kerklaan 40. Phone: 523 3400. (C3).
Founded in 1838 this spacious zoo has more than 900 animal species, in addition to plants in three spacious greenhouses. It also incorporates an excellent Aquarium, containing almost 500 species; a Planetarium; and a Geological Museum.

1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson

Paris hotels

Ferðir

Abbaye Saint-Germain

10 rue Cassette, 75006. Phone: 4544 3811. Fax: 4548 0786. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) without breakfast. All major cards. 42 rooms. (D5).

An 18th C. residence with elegant service and a private garden near Saint-Sulpice, between Jardin du Luxembourg and Boulevard Saint-Germain, just south of Rue de Mézieres, on the left side of Rue Cassette. The comfortable hotel is entered through a garden and an arcade.

Behind the glass entrance there is a large lobby with thick sofas in several seating areas in diferent color, separated by colomns, doubling as a breakfast room. Service is unusually good. The best rooms are on the ground floor.

Room no. 35 is spacious, wallpapered in yellow, with large and thick curtains, quality furniture of wood and bast, marble and glass, large chairs. The fully tiled bathroom has all the amenities, including a hair dryer.

Agora

7 rue de la Cossonnerie, 75001. Phone: 4233 4602. Fax: 4233 8099. Price: FFr.595 ($117) without breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (E4).

A small and inexpensive hotel with the main attraction of being in a pedestrian district between the Pompidou museum and the Halles shopping mall, near the garish Rue St-Denis though. Its reception is on the first floor of a narrow house.

The small reception is snug and the staff are exemplary. The elevator of less than 2 cubic meters is probably one of the smallest in existence.

Room no. 52 in light blue color is quiet and clean, very small and sparsely equipped with tired furniture, such as a collapsible table and a stool. It lacked a wastebasket and just managed to fit in a TV set. The fully tiled bathroom is better, furnished with a smallish towel.

Angleterre

44 rue Jacob, 75006. Phone: 4260 3472. Fax: 4260 1693. Price: FFr.1100 ($216) without breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (D4).

A lovely hotel in a former British embassy in the area between the Seine and Boulevard Saint-Germain, on the northern side of Rue Jacob, between Rue des Saints-Pères and Rue Bonaparte, entered through a gate and a courtyard.

The lobby includes a piano bar, a sitting area, a breakfast area and a garden with a fountain. The good service fits the excellent surroundings.

The extra large room no. 26 is exquisite, almost an apartment, entered through a foyer into a large bedroom area with massive and carved furniture of dark wood, including a beautiful wardrobe. A dining area is upstairs with a safe, prominent beams and two large windows offering a view to Rue Jacob. The marble bathroom in two parts has all amenities, including a jacuzzi bath.

Atala

10 Rue Chateaubriand, 75008. Phone: 4562 0162. Fax: 4225 6638. Price: FFr.900 ($176) without breakfast. All major cards. 48 rooms. (B3).

Conveniently situated between two buildings of the Chamber of Commerce, 400 meters from the Étoile and Arc de Triomphe.

The hotel has a rare plus in this city, a charming garden at the back. The fragrance of the flora helps to make it a coveted oasis alongside the throngs of Champs-Élysées.

Period furnishings in blue and moss green are in room no. 54, also chandeliers, not only in the ceiling but also over the beds. It is commodious and has a special anteroom. The TV set is conveniently fastened to the wall. The bathroom is well tiled and in perfect condition. The only minus is the bad sound isolation. The best plus is the enormous window to the garden.

Bradford

10 Rue Saint-Philippe-du-Roule, 75008. Phone: 4563 2020. Fax: 4563 2007. Price: FFr.800 ($157) with breakfast. All major cards. 48 rooms. (C3).

A good value in the district of fashion shops around Faubourg Saint-Honoré, only 100 meters from that street and 300 meters from Champs-Élysées.

This is a solid and an old-fashioned family hotel from the turn of the century. In spite of that it does not look tired. The staff is elderly and uncommonly friendly. The glass lift might be the oldest in Paris and some did not dare to use it. It served us well.

Room no. 56 is ample and has a balcony with a view to Tour Eiffel. The furniture is old-fashioned but not tired at all. Flowery decorations are on the wallpaper and window curtains. The bathroom is tiled in an old-fashioned white color.

Bristol

112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008. Phone: 4266 9145. Fax: 4266 6868. Price: FFr.3000 ($588) without breakfast. All major cards. 205 rooms. (C3).

The aristocratic hotel in Paris, at the main fashion street in town, Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The presidential palace, Élysée, is only 150 meters to the east at the same street. Therefore foreign diplomats stay at the Bristol, except the American ones who stay at the Crillon, alongside their embassy and fronting Place de la Concorde. Bristol is considered slightly more dignified.

The lobby is particularly splendid. Marble and Persian rugs flow into every corner, all the way to the well tended garden. Here is the famous Bristol bar, albeit not crowded with diplomats. Bristol has a swimming pool, all furnished in wood, on the top floor. There was some disorganization in the lobby due to overbooking. Really not as perfect as it should be.

Room no. 424/425 is splendid, expansive and furnished in style. A decorous writing table is at the big window overlooking the garden. In the middle there is a magnificent chandelier.

De Nice

42 bis rue de Rivoli, 75004. Phone: 4278 5529. Fax: 4278 3607. Price: FFr.390 ($76) without breakfast. All major cards. 23 rooms. (F4).

A practical hotel on a main street near Hôtel de Ville. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Deux Iles

59 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 1335. Fax: 4329 6025. Price: FFr.830 ($163) without breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (F5).

Very small and beautiful, with a soul, in a 17th C. building on the main and mainly pedestrian street of the lovely Saint-Louis island, an oasis in the geographical center of the city.

The lobby is comfortable and tasteful, with a sofa and newspapers.

Room no. 23 is small and pretty, with large beams in the high ceiling, antique and matching furniture, a window to the peaceful garden. The fully tiled bathroom is excellent.

Du Jeu de Paume

5 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 1418. Fax: 4046 0276. Price: FFr.810 ($159) without breakfast. All major cards. 32 rooms. (F5).

A sanctuary in the very center of Paris, in a beautiful 17th C. city mansion on the mainly pedestrian street that runs the lenght of the lovely Saint-Louis island, a personal and an elegant hotel, entered through a gateway from the street.

The unusual lobby has prominent structural elements of stones and beams and stretches up to the roof, showing off the 17th C. construction. A glass elevator brings you up to the room and gives a view to the public areas of the hotel. The stone and woodwork has pale colors. Breakfast is served in a glassed-in garden. A sauna and some business amenities suit small meetings.

The bright and quiet room no. 202 is rather spacious and very comfortable, with dark beams contrasting with pale walls. A small windows offers scant view. The bathroom is in two parts, well equipped, including a hair dryer.

Du Louvre

Place André-Malroux, 75001. Phone: 4458 3838. Fax: 4458 3801. Price: FFr.1800 ($353) with breakfast. All major cards. 300 rooms. (E4).

A business hotel suitable for businessmen and intellectuals, with the Louvre on one side and Comédie Francaise and Palais Royal on the other. The biggest antique market, Louvre des Antiquaires, is on the third side. The shopping streets Rivoli and Saint-Honoré are alongside the hotel. The position could not be better.

This is a big hotel, covering a whole block. In spite of that it is not especially impersonal. The man with the keys even recognized us and did not have to ask for the room number. But there was some noise from tourist groups in the lobby.

Room no. 441 is ample and well furnished in modern style. It is quiet which is almost a miracle in this location. All the appointments are in perfect condition, such as the bathroom facilities.

Duc de Saint-Simon

14 Rue Saint-Simon, 75007. Phone: 4548 3566. Fax: 4548 6825. Price: FFr.1200 ($235) without breakfast. No cards. 29 rooms. (D4).

A tasteful and peaceful hotel in an old mansion only 100 meters from the main boulevard of the left bank, Boulevard Saint-Germain. It has for a long time been one of our favorites.

The relaxing oasis of a hotel is entered through a courtyard, behind which there is a quiet lobby and a sitting room furnished with antiques. Many rooms have access to or views to miniature gardens.

The furniture in room no. 24 is antique, an easy chair, a chest of drawers and a writing table used as a breakfast table. It has pleasant wallpaper and nice pictures of horses. The bathroom is beautifully tiled and well equipped. All colors fit. The room is one of those which have access to a semi-private garden on the roof of the first floor.

Ducs d’Anjou

1 Rue Sainte-Opportune, 75001. Phone: 4236 9224. Fax: 4236 1663. Price: FFr.565 ($111) with breakfast. All major cards. 38 rooms. (E4).

Conveniently situated in an old building on a small square in a knot of pedestrian alleys in the 1st district, a stone’s throw from busy Rue de Rivoli, only 200 meters away from Forum des Halles, 400 meters from Beaubourg and 600 meters from the Louvre.

The personnel was unusually friendly. The receptionist recognized guests from the beginning and handed out keys without asking for room numbers.

Room no. 43 is small and nice, with two big windows, opening to the lively pedestrian square, making it almost possible to learn French in bed. When the window was closed, all was quiet. The equipment is convenient and tasteful, such as the flowery wallpaper and the French wardrobe, albeit too small. The bathroom is ample, well tiled and with an efficient shower.

Esméralda

4 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, 75005. Phone: 4354 1920. Fax: 4051 0068. Price: FFr.510 ($100) without breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (E5).

A small hotel near the Seine and Notre Dame. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Hotel de Saint-Germain

50 rue du Four, 75006. Phone: 4548 9164. Fax: 4548 4622. Price: FFr.695 ($136) with breakfast. All major cards. 30 rooms. (D5).

A small hotel a few steps from the bustle of Saint-Germain. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Hotel Panthéon

19 place du Panthéon, 75005. Phone: 4354 3295. Fax: 4326 6465. Price: FFr.750 ($147) without breakfast. All major cards. 34 rooms. (E6).

Charming hotel on the Panthéon square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Le Notre-Dame

1 Quai Saint-Michel, 75005. Phone: 4354 2043. Fax: 4626 6175. Price: FFr.790 ($155) without breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (E5).

A few steps from Place Saint-Michel, on the corner of Quai Saint-Michel and Rue Saint-Jacques, combining a perfect central location with a view over the Seine, Ile de la Cité and Notre-Dame, illuminated in the evening and the night. The comfortable hotel is entered from the street through a glass door and stairs that lead to the first floor foyer.

There is a bar, a sitting area with newspapers, a good view and a blazing fireplace in the lobby of pre-war design.
Room no. 54 is spacious and bright, with matching furniture of good quality. Its main attraction is the evening view to

he lively pedestrian life on the quai and to the illuminated Notre-Dame cathedral. Double glazing gives good sound insulation from the outside, but you can hear the next room TV set. The well equipped bathroom is ordinary in style, with a marble washbasin though.

Lenox Saint-Germain

9 rue de l’Université. Phone: 4296 1095. Fax: 4261 5283. Price: FFr.780 ($153) without breakfast. All major cards. 32 rooms. (D4).

An attractive hotel in the western Latin quarter, at the eastern end of Rue de l’Université, just west of Rue des Saints Pères, on the southern side of the street.

The lobby has a marble floor and Persian carpets, a marble fireplace, three sitting areas and a breakfast bar.

The attic room no. 54 is on two levels. The foyer, with a spacious and fully tiled bathroom, leads into a living room with a high ceiling and antique furniture, including a writing desk and an oversized and gilded mirror. It leads out to a balcony with a table and chairs overlooking the street. Or up narrow stairs up to a bedroom with white beams, a sitting area and a TV set.

Lutèce

65 Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4326 2352. Fax: 4329 6025. Price: FFr.820 ($161) without breakfast. No cards. 23 rooms. (F5).

Just behind Notre-Dame, on the small Ile de Saint-Louis island, which is like a jolly in the tow of the bigger Ile de la Cité. The hotel is on the street running through the length of the island, a convenient starting point for walks to both the Left and the Right banks of the river Seine.

It is so restrained that you have to search for its name on the outside. This modesty is in accordance with conservation rules demanding that the exterior of Ile de Saint-Louis houses remain unchanged, making the whole island a Louis XIII museum. Entering the lobby we see a big fireplace, comfortable seating, modern paintings and a vast flower arrangement, all in style.

Room no. 41 is on the smallish side. It looks out to the locals’ morning food shopping in the famous Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Isle, a narrow 17th Century street with an endless row of specialty food shops. As befits a house of 250 years the rooms sports ancient beams, old furniture and a happy atmosphere for tired travelers. The bathroom is modern, tastefully tiled.

Noailles

9 rue de la Michodière, 75002. Phone: 4742 9290. Fax: 4924 9271. Price: FFr.850 ($167) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (D3).

A modern and elegant hotel of metal, glass and wood near the Garnier Opera, on the west side of the street, between Rue du Quatre Septembre and Rue St-Augustin.

A refined reception with a comfortable sitting area and a small library is staffed by pleasant staff. A glass elevator leads up to the guest rooms.

Room no. 301 is spacious and tasteful with modern furniture and colors in black, white, gray and greenish brown. Even the painting on the wall is unusually aesthetic. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and exquisite and has all the amenities, including a hair-dryer.

Pavilion de la Reine

28 place des Vosges, 75003. Phone: 4277 9640. Fax: 4277 6306. Price: FFr.1700 ($333) without breakfast. All major cards. 35 rooms. (G4).

Dignified and elegant, suitably located in a 17th C. building at the northern side of the oldest and probably the most beautiful squares in Paris. The powerful front has large windows and iron railings. The dashing entrance leads from the square through an arcade, an iron gate and a peaceful garden to a magnificient glass door.

The baroque and solemn lobby has leather chairs, antique furniture and a blazing fireplace. Service is exemplary.

The excellent room no. 42 is covered in beautiful, thick and red wallcloth and bedcover, equipped with solid, antique furniture and has a window overlooking the garden. The bathroom in marble is in two separate parts, with all the amenities, including bathrobes.

Place du Louvre

21 rue des Prêtres-Saint-Germain, 75001. Phone: 4233 7868. Fax: 4233 0995. Price: FFr.800 ($157) without breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (E4).

Charming hotel with antiques in a 16th C. building a few steps from the Louvre and the Seine. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Plaza Athénée

25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008. Phone: 4723 7833. Fax: 4720 2070. Price: FFr.3000 ($588) without breakfast. All major cards. 218 rooms. (B3).

The finest hotel in Paris and one of the best hotels in the world, on the fashion houses’ street Avenue Montaigne on the Right bank. Its attributes are the art noveau entrance, the Rollses and Mercedes’ in rows outside, the chauffeurs’ chatting round on the pavement and the sleek Doberman guarding the entrance. This is the correct address for the famous of the world.

The most famous aspect of Plaza-Athénée is the service, being the best in town. It is quick and efficient, without being servile. You get your bleu steak to your room five minutes after your order. A part of the magic comes from the staff being partners in profit. This is a relaxed hotel in spite of its size.

Room no. 102-103 fitted the price. It has a Persian carpet, an unused fireplace and period furniture, chandeliers even over the beds. The grand bathroom is delicately tiled and had bathrobes. The windows are directly over the entrance, with a view to the Rollses and Mercedes’, the chauffeurs and the paparazzi with their cameras.

Relais Christine

3 Rue Christine, 75006. Phone: 4326 7180. Fax: 4326 8938. Price: FFr.1600 ($314) with breakfast. All major cards. 51 rooms. (E5).
In a 16th Century convent on the Left bank, 250 meters from Boulevard Saint-Germain and 250 meters from Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cité. This is the heart of the old 6th district of cultural life in Paris, with famous restaurants abounding. The sign of the hotel is not obvious on the outside as is to be expected. The entrance to the lobby is through the garden.

The lobby is gorgeous as are the staircases showing the structure of the house. That structure is also evident in the arches in the cellar chapel where it is a must to have breakfast, albeit we never recommend French hotel breakfasts. Behind the lobby there is an amusing sitting room furnished with heavy chairs, massive paneling and respectful portraits.

Room no. 40 boasts of big beams in the ceiling, ancient furniture, such as a writing table, a floor lamp and a bedside table. The bedspread is heavy and all the walls are soft. The room is spacious and silent. It has all the modern amenities, in addition to an attractively tiled bathroom.

Récamier

3 bis place Saint-Sulpice, 75006. Phone: 4326 0489. Price: FFr.560 ($110) without breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (D5).

A quiet left bank hotel. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Saint-Louis

75 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004. Phone: 4634 0480. Fax: 4634 0213. Price: FFr.770 ($151) without breakfast. All major cards. 21 rooms. (F5).

A small hotel, perfectley located on the Saint-Louis island in the Seine. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Select

1 place de la Sorbonne, 75005. Phone: 4634 1480. Fax: 4634 5179. Price: FFr.1300 ($255) without breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (E5).

An art decco hotel with large rooms directly in front of the Sorbonne. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Tuileries

10 rue St-Hyacinte, 75001. Phone: 4261 0417. Fax: 4927 9156. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) without breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (D3).

A renovated hotel in a 17th C. mansion a few steps from the Tuileries. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Varenne

44 Rue du Bourgogne, 75007. Phone: 4551 4555. Fax: 4551 8663. Price: FFr.600 ($118) without breakfast. All major cards. 24 rooms. (C4).

Quietly situated in the ministries part of the 7th district, 150 meters from the Rodin museum and 300 meters from Invalides and Esplanade. The entrance is through a courtyard.

The courtyard also serves as an outdoors breakfast room in suitable weather. The rooms on the street side have double glazing and those on the courtyard side are naturally quiet.

Room no. 25 is rather small, but furnished with tasteful, modern equipage and delicate wallpaper. The relatively bigger bathroom at the outside wall has excellent appointments. The windows look out to the breakfast courtyard.

Vieux Marais

8 Rue du Plâtre, 75004. Phone: 4278 4722. Fax: 4278 3432. Price: FFr.550 ($108) without breakfast. All major cards. 30 rooms. (F4).

An oasis in the old, aristocratic quarter of Marais, which until recently was dilapidated but has come into fashion again. The hotel is only 250 meters from the Pompidou museum in Palais Beaubourg.

In the tasteful lobby pleasant staff care about customers.

Room no. 25 is long and narrow, very flowery papered, not only in the room itself but also above the tiles in the bathroom.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

København amusements

Ferðir

Bakken

Klampenborg. Hours: Open in summer.

An amusement park like Tivoli in the suburb of Klampenborg, more basic and with more space, popular with many locals.

Brønnum

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

The senior actors and artists pub in town, conveniently situated between the Royal Theater and the Royal Academy of Arts at the central Kongens Nytorv Square. The antique bar is comfortably weary-looking and romantic.

Hviids Vinstue

Kongens Nytorv. (B2).

One of the oldest pubs in the center, situated on Kongens Nytorv in several small rooms in a cellar reeking with antiquity. It looks like it must have looked in the 19th C. It has a low ceiling, hard benches and chairs. The visibility is poor due to tobacco smoke, and the guests never seem to leave, nor to stop ordering more beer.

When the happy hour arrives, this ancient wine bar fills up for a while with loud and happy people from the offices around. The congregate here before going out or home to dinner.

Library Bar

Bernstorffsgade 4. (A3).

Heavy wood, old books and thick leather are the hallmarks of this upper-class bar of the Plaza hotel, alongside the central railway station. Speech hushes into a whisper in the distinguished and irresistible library, dominated by a flower arrangement.

Vin & Ølgod

Skindergade 45. (B2).

The mood is usually exuberant in this moderately priced late evening beer hall accommodating 400 guests. Customers in high spirits stand on benches and sing along to old favorites. A small band and a jester keep things going. The place fits the older crowd. Beer is drunk freely from one-liter mugs and a few smørrebrød are devoured too.

It is a distant relative of the beer halls of Bavaria. Those are more brassy and these have milder music and songs of a more universally popular variety, the texts being conveniently provided in song-books at every seat. Guests sit on benches at long tables, join hands with neighbors, waive flags and dance waltzes and rhumbas.

If we want more quiet, we can order a window table upstairs in the English Pub, where we have an excellent view over the commotion. The Portuguese bistro can also be used in the same way. If we want to concentrate on beer-guzzling, there are long tables downstairs in Rådhuskælderen under seven centuries old vaults and ancient dungeon irons.

Cafe Dan Turéll

Skt. Regnegade 3-5. Phone: 3314 1047. (B2).

A tiny café in a small street near Kongens Nytorv, very “in” and crowded for several years, with literary and intellectual regulars.

Cafe Europa

Amagertorv 1. Phone: 3314 2889. (B2).

Perfectly situated on pedestrian Strøget, specializing in newspapers. It is good vantage point to observe the pedestrian commotion outside.

Cafe Krasnapolsky

Vestergade 10. Phone: 3332 8800. (A2).

A popular café with techno music and large windows near Rådhuspladsen, on the northern side of the street, between Larsbjørnsstræde and Gammeltorv. The kitchen is above par and the the service is getting slower all the time. A rectangular bar in the middle dominates the place.

Cafe Norden

Amagertorv. (B2).

Perfectly situated on pedestrian Strøget, specializing in cakes, on the corner of the shopping streets Købmagergade and Strøget. It is on two floors, but the most attractive part is the one that spills into the pavement in summer, when artists perform on the square.

Cafe Sommersko

Kronprinsensgade 6. Phone: 3314 8189. (B2).

On the southern side of the street, a few steps from the pedestrian Købmagergade, the Danish answer to Café Flora and Café Deux Magots in Paris. It is the mother of bohemian cafés in Copenhagen, brightly lit, has lots of mirrors and the staff are in uniform.

Falsled Kro

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Venezia hotels

Ferðir

Accademia

Fondamenta Bollani, 1058. Phone: 523 7846. Fax: 523 9152. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (A2).

Near the Accademia museum in the Dorsoduro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Agli Alboretti

Rio Terra Sant’Agnese, Dorsoduro 884. Phone: 523 0058. Fax: 521 0158. Price: L.182000 ($115) with breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (B2).

An amusing little hotel in an old and creaky house alongside the main museum in Venice, the Accademia. From the boat landing in front of the museum we go to the left of the museum. The hotel is in that street, about 100 meters from the landing.

The reception is small and quaintly old. There is no lift. The rooms either face the unusually large back garden or the rather wide street between the hotel and the Accademia.

Room no. 3 is rather small and simple, with a window to the garden, very clean, in mild colors, with a direct phone line and a hair dryer, but no TV set. The furniture is old-fashioned, almost antique. The bathroom is very small, but well equipped and fully tiled. The shower occupies a third of the space.

Ala

Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2494. Phone: 520 8333. Fax: 520 6390. Price: L.220000 ($139) with breakfast. All major cards. 85 rooms. (B2).

On a large square on the main street between Piazza San Marco and the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Astoria

Calle Fiubera, 951. Phone: 5422 5381. Fax: 520 0771. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 28 rooms. (B2).

About 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ateneo

Calle Minelli, 1876. Phone: 520 0777. Fax: 522 8550. Price: L.285000 ($180) with breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (B2).

In a cul-de-sac few steps from the Fenice opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Danieli

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Price: L.770000 ($486) with breakfast. All major cards. 221 rooms. (C2).

An excellent luxury hotel in the beautiful Gothic mediaeval former palace of the Dandolo family on the promenade alongside the lagoon, almost beside Palazzo Ducale. The hotel is in three parallel palaces and it is possible to stay for two thirds of the stated price, but the best luxury rooms in the oldest palace are those of interest, if you stay in a palace like this one.

The public rooms are extremely luxurious, in marble and precious hardwood, especially the reception and the spacious drawing room. The servants are variable, some are excellent and others should be brought down to earth. There is life music in the drawing room at British tea time and there are singers in the bar in the evening.

Room no. 33 is excellent, large and opulent, with a window facing the lagoon, the monastery island San Giorgio Maggiore and the pedestrian commotion on the promenade beneath. It has a creaky parquet and is in mild, green colors in soft wallcloths, curtains, bedcovers and a bar. The bathroom is unusually luxurious, all laid in the exquisite marble and extremely well equipped.

Do Pozzi

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2373. Phone: 520 7855. Fax: 522 9413. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (B2).

Our favorite hotel, small and cozy, in a main street, about 400 meters from Piazza San Marco, has the best quality to price ratio in town. From the southwestern corner of the piazza we walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where several alleys lead left off the street to Canal Grande. The signposted hotel is in the westernmost alley.

From a small and comfortable reception we can go through corridors to the Rafaele restaurant, which is in the same ownership. Long and narrow corridors to the guest rooms are decorated with drawings and paintings. The service is dexterous.

Room no. 75 is comfortable, rather small and bright, with a window to Calle larga 22. Marzo and creaks cozily when we pace the floor. The old furniture of quality is light and in mild summer colors. There is a TV set, a direct line and a minibar. The fully tiled bathroom has also a window and is well equipped, including a large bathtub and a hair dryer.

Europa e Regina

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Phone: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Price: L.565000 ($357) with breakfast. All major cards. 192 rooms. (B2).

One of the elegant Canal Grande hotels has a broad canal front, offering many choices of canalview rooms, opposite the Salute church on the other bank. It is on the main Calle large 22. Marzo, about 300 meters from the southwestern corner of Piazza San Marco. We walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and immediately turn left through an unmarked alley past the gondoliers.

The reception is in the building of the former Europa hotel and the best rooms are in the former Regina hotel. There are large public rooms downstairs, including the Tiepolo restaurant which doubles as the breakfast room. Service is excellent and fits the style and price of the hotel.

Room no. 456 is large and handsome, exuding quality and dignity. The light green walls demand larger paintings. Two doors lead out to a large private balcony with a splendid view over Canal Grande. The furnishings are beautifully old. The fully tiled bath has all the amenities. This is truly a luxury room.

Fenice et des Artistes

Campiello de la Fenice, San Marco 1936. Phone: 523 2333. Fax: 520 3721. Price: L.250000 ($158) with breakfast. All major cards. 65 rooms. (B2).

A well-known namesake of the main theater, which is on the same square, about 500 meters from Piazza San Marco. From the southwestern corner of the piazza we walk Salizzada San Moisè and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where we turn right into Calle delle Veste to Campo San Fantin in front of the theater. To the right of the theater is another square where the hotel is.

The reception is in a kind of a garden house between the two separate buildings of the hotel. The older building does not have an elevator, but the staircase and corridors are carpeted and decorated with antiques. The staff is not well informed about goings-on in town.

Room no. 312 is of medium size, warm and neatly equipped with old furnishings, a TV set and a direct line, with green colors in wallpapers, ovens, the carpet and the ceiling. The window overlooks a back garden. The fully tiled bathroom is well equipped and spacious, with a seat-bathtub.

Firenze

Salizzada San Moisè, 1490. Phone: 522 2858. Fax: 520 2668. Price: L.260000 ($164) with breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (B2).

Centrally located a few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Flora

Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2283a. Phone: 520 5844. Fax: 522 8217. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 44 rooms. (B2).

A traditionally fine hotel and not expensive, well situated in a main street near Piazza San Marco, about 400 meters from the southwestern corner of the piazza. We walk Salizzada San Moisè, cross a bridge and continue on Calle larga 22. Marzo, where we turn left into the third alley from the far end of the street. The hotel is clearly signposted at the entrance of the alley.

Behind the Art Nouveau entrance there is a lot of leather and hardwood. A dignified staircase leads to the upper floors, decorated with mirrors and curtains, which characterize the hotel. The efficient staff is very pleasant and courteous. Those who are not addressed as “professore” are addressed as “dottore”.

Room no. 2 is old and worn, clean and comfortable, furnished with antiques, a TV set, direct line and a hair dryer. The windows face a well-tended garden behind the lobby. A fully tiled and modern bathroom has the usual amenities.

Giorgione

Santi Apostoli, 4587. Phone: 522 5810. Fax: 523 9092. Price: L.260000 ($164) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (B1).

A modern hotel about 100 meters from the street between Rialto and the railway station. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gritti

Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467. Phone: 79 4611. Fax: 520 0942. Price: L.700000 ($442) without breakfast. All major cards. 93 rooms. (B2).

One of the world famous luxury hotels of Venice, situated on Canal Grande. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Londra

Riva degli Schiavoni, 4171. Phone: 520 0533. Fax: 522 5032. Price: L.410000 ($259) with breakfast. All major cards. 65 rooms. (C2).

A luxury hotel on the lagoon promenade in the city center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Luna Baglioni

Calle larga dell’Ascensione, 1243. Phone: 528 9840. Fax: 528 7160. Price: L.500000 ($316) with breakfast. All major cards. 109 rooms. (B2).

Very centrally located, a few steps from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Marconi

Riva del Vin, San Polo 729. Phone: 522 2068. Fax: 522 9700. Price: L.283000 ($179) with breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (B1).

An amusing and well situated hotel on the Canal Grande bank, a few steps from the Rialto bridge. From the Rialto boat landing we cross the bridge and turn left on the relatively spacious Riva del Vin.

Behind the entrance qualified people staff the small and neat reception. A complicated system of stairs leads to the upper floors, from which another staircase leads down to a breakfast rooms, where a buffet breakfast is served, unusual for Italy.

Room no. 11 is large and well equipped with antique furniture, a TV set and a direct line, hair dryer and minibar, a carpet on a terrazzo floor. It has quaintly ugly glass chandeliers in Rococo style on the walls. The fully tiled bathroom is large and modern, with a heated towel frame.

Monaco e Grand Canal

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1325. Phone: 520 0211. Fax: 520 0501. Price: L.400000 ($253) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (B2).

A precious hotel with a broad front and perfect view over Canal Grande to Santa Maria della Salute, unusually well located about 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. From the southwestern corner we walk a few steps along Salizzada San Moisè and turn left into Calle Vallaresso, where the hotel entrance is on the right side almost on the bank of the canal.

A plus of the hotel is that the majority of the rooms faces the broad and busy canal. The staff is very pleasant.

Room no. 306 is well equipped with solid and old furniture of lathed hardwood, a hand painted cupboard and a respectable writing desk, a TV set and a direct line. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and well furnished. The window faces Canal Grande.

Paganelli

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4182. Phone: 522 4324. Fax: 523 9267. Price: L.160000 ($101) with breakfast. All major cards. 22 rooms. (C2).

An economical hotel on the broad promenade on the lagoon bank about 300 meters from Palazzo Ducale. The San Zaccaria boat landing station is directly in front of the hotel which is in two parts. One is on the bank and the other in a side alley. The reception is in the former part where the rooms cost a little more, and the breakfast room is in the latter part.

The hotel is very small and tight, clean and comfortable, without an elevator, run by straightforward staff which does not try to hide its mistakes. Breakfast is rather good and includes fruit.

Room no. 23 is in the alley, very small, furnished with matching antiques, including a hand-painted writing desk. There is a direct phone line but no TV set. The old beams of the structure decorated the ceiling. The fully tiled bathroom is modern and well equipped. It includes a heated frame for its unusually large towels.

Rialto

Riva del Ferro, 5149. Phone: 520 9166. Fax: 523 8958. Price: L.290000 ($183) with breakfast. All major cards. 71 rooms. (B1).

A perfect Canal Grande location with a view to the Rialto bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

San Moisè
Piscina San Moisè, 2058. Phone: 520 3755. Fax: 521 0670. Price: L.270000 ($170) with breakfast. All major cards. 16 rooms. (B2).
A tiny hotel a few steps from the Fenice opera house. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

San Zulian
Piscina San Zulian, 535. Phone: 522 5872. Fax: 523 2265. Price: L.180000 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 18 rooms. (C2).
Near the San Zulian church, 100 meters from Piazza San Marco. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Saturnia e International
Calle larga 22 Marzo, 2398. Phone: 520 8377. Fax: 520 7131. Price: L.400000 ($253) with breakfast. All major cards. 95 rooms. (B2).
On the main street from Campo San Marco to the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Serenissima
Calle Goldoni, 4486. Phone: 520 0011. Fax: 522 3292. Price: L.190000 ($120) with breakfast. All major cards. 34 rooms. (B2).
Between Piazza San Marco and Ponte Rialto. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sturion
Calle Sturion, San Polo 679. Phone: 523 6243. Fax: 522 8378. Price: L.180000 ($114) with breakfast. All major cards. 11 rooms. (B1).
A quaint and amusing hotel, only 100 meters from the Rialto bridge. From the Rialto boat landing we cross the bridge and turn left on the Riva del Vin bank and then right into the alley Calle Sturion, where the hotel is on the left side. From the entrance a very long and straight staircase leads up to the fourth floor.

A hotel by this name was in the building for five centuries, from the end of the 13th Century to the end of the 18th Century, known from old paintings and documents. After a pause of two centuries an hotel was opened again, but only on the top two floors of the building. It is a family business with a good breakfast room that has a view to Canal Grande. Two rooms share this view.

Room no. 10 is very quaint. It is really a long corridor with a tiny bathroom in front, then a foyer and a corridor with a sink and finally a bedroom in the inner end. From one small window there is a view over the roofs of the San Polo district. The furniture is old and clean. There is a TV set and a direct phone, a minibar and an hair dryer.

Torino

Calle della Ostreghe, 2356. Phone: 520 5222. Fax: 522 8227. Price: L.220000 ($139) with breakfast. All major cards. 19 rooms. (B2).

Centrally located on the main street from Piazza San Marco to the Accademia bridge. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson