Allard
41 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 75005. Phone: 4326 4823. Fax: 4633 0402. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.640 ($125) for two. All major cards. (E5).
On the Left bank, near the intersection of the boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain, in a corner house from the 17th Century, offering old-fashioned appointments and old-fashioned bourgeois cooking, far removed from Nouvelle Cuisine. Fernande Allard takes care of the kitchen, offering the same as ever, loaded plates of hearty food for hungry businessmen.
The guests sit tight, bistro-style, at small tables, which formerly bared the marble but are now covered with white cloth. The sawdust has disappeared from the floor, but the random pictures are still hanging on the walls. The waiters wear long, black aprons.
• Fromage de tête = pickled calf head.
• Jambon persillé = ham.
• Veau à la Berrichonne = veal with soft boiled egg, the Tuesday speciality.
• Coq au vin = traditional chicken in red wine.
• Gâteau de framboises = raspberry cake.
• Charlotte au chocolat = chocolate pudding.
Ambassade d‘Auvergne
22 Rue du Grenier-Saint-Lazare, 75003. Phone: 4272 3122. Fax: 4278 8547. Price: FFr.440 ($86) for two. All major cards. (F4).
The best known country cooking in Paris is quite near the Pompidou museum in Palais Beaubourg. The chef, Joseph Petrucci, is in fact an Italian, but his wife, Hélene Petrucci is a daughter of the Auvergne mountains in southern France and the cooking derives from there. The pricing is reasonable.
Madame Petrucci receives guests cordially. It is desirable to get a table on the ground floor, decorated in rustic style. There are beams of oak and a heavy table for ten in the middle of the dining room.
• Soupe au choux et au roquefort = Auvergne cabbage soup with cheese flavor.
• Poélé d’escargots à la confiture d’oignons = snails in fruit and onion jam.
• Saucisse d’Auvergne aux lentilles de puy = meat with lentils.
• Saucisse aligot = sausage with extremely elastic potato and cheese puré.
• Sorbet aux mures = mulberry sorbet.
• Coupetade = prune pudding.
Appart
9 rue du Colisée, 75008. Phone: 5375 1634. Fax: 5376 1539. Price: FFr.400 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B3).
A trendy and lively rendez-vous with generous helpings of traditional food and reasonable prices for the beautiful people near Rond Point of Champs-Élysées, on the north side of the street.
The interior is bourgeois and romantic, heavily decorated with bookcases, platters, paintings, wine racks, potted plants, candles and coffee boxes. The napkins are of paper and the service is by beautiful girls. Usually the place is full of convival young people seing others and showing themselves off.
• Rémoulade de pieds de cochon et fondue de poireaux au balsamique = pig’s trotters with leeks.
• Petits piments farcis á la morue sur coulis de poivron doux = small peppers filled with cod and sweet pepper juice.
• Cour de filet á la moutarde violette, pomme dauphin = beef fillet with violet mustard.
• Côtes d’agneau aux saveurs orientales, jus d’agneau á la menthe fraîche = roasted lamb ribs with oriental spices.
• Tarte aux pommes chaude “quatre coins” = warm apple pie.
• Tarte tiéde au chocolat, glace au pain d’épices = tepid chocolate cake.
Assignat
7 rue Guénégaud, 75006. Phone: 4354 8768. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday. Price: FFr.160 ($31) for two. No cards. (E4).
A classic restaurant of very low prices a few steps from Pont Neuf. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Auberge des Deux Signes
46 rue Galande, 75005. Phone: 4325 4656. Fax: 4633 2049. Hours: Closed Saturdauy lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.900 ($176) for two. All major cards. (E5).
Marvelously restored medieval abbey with romantic atmosphere across the bridge from Notre Dame to the left bank, between Rue Saint-Jacques and Rue Dante.
There are heavy oak beams in the ceiling, Gothic vaults, bare stone walls, and windows facing Notre Dame. The fireplace is blazing and the ancient well is functioning. There are flowers and white linen on the tables and antique-fashioned carved chairs on the floor.
• Assiette de saumon fumé Norvégien = smoked Norwegian salmon.
• Six escargots géants de Bourgogne = six large Bourgogne snails.
• Magret de mulord bolle fruitiére
• Médaillon de capelin en crépine aux échalotes confites = capelin in a crépe of glazed shallots.
• Fondant d’ananas á la crème Chiboust sauce canelle = pineapple icing with cinnamon sauce.
• Sabayon champagne aux fruits frais = champagne zabaglione with fresh fruit.
Babylone
13 rue de Babylone, 75007. Phone: 4548 7213. Hours: Closed dinner. Price: FFr.220 ($43) for two. No cards. (D5).
An inexpensive west bank restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Baptiste
11 Rue des Boulangers, 75005. Phone: 4325 5724. Fax: 4337 8269. Price: FFr.170 ($33) for two. All major cards. (F6).
Near the ruins of the Roman arena in the Latin quarter, a cozy and inexpensive tavern in a quiet street.
Bourdonnais
113 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, 75007. Phone: 4705 4796. Fax: 4551 0929. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.780 ($153) for two. All major cards. (B5).
Situated near the corner of Avenue de la Bourdonnais and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, between Tour Eiffel and Invalides. The restaurant also answers to the name of Cantine des Gourmets. Madame Micheline Coat directs the service and has got a master chef from the Negresco in Nice, Régis Mahé, who has elevated the culinary status.
This is a graceful and a snug restaurant, pink and white, seating 70, partitioned into three sections by glass shelves with porcelain and glass figures. The flower arrangements are in the house colors. Madame carries the heaviest decorations, five necklaces, two bracelets and golden glasses.
• Crème de poireaux et pommes de terre glacée = cold chives soup.
• Grillade de filets de rouget en vinaigrette = grilled red mullet.
• Suprème de saumon grillé au beurre de Noilly = lightly poached salmon.
• Rizotto et filets d’agneau au confit de poivrons doux = lightly braised lamb.
• Gratin de framboises sauce chocolat = raspberry puré with chocolate sauce.
• Nougat glacé coulis de framboises, amandes, pruneau, oranges confites = ice-cream with sugared fruits.
Cartes Postales
7 rue Gomboust, 75001. Phone: 4261 0293. Fax: 4261 0293. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (D3).
A small and airy restaurant, almost Japanese in its spartan style, a few steps from Avenue de l’Opera, between the Garnier Opera and the Louvre. A Japanese chef cooks in the classic French manner, with the modern addition of exact timings in cooking.
The cool interior, somewhat enlived by fresh flowers, has white linen and white walls with a large window on one side and two rows of postcards on the other.
• Foie gras de canard Landais cuit en terrine = duck liver terrine.
• Fricassée des langoustines aux champignons de saison = prawn fricassée with mushrooms of the season.
• Croustillant de homard et son coulis = lobster in crust with own juices.
• Mille feuille de duode foie gras aux epices = spiced goose liver in pastry layers.
• Croustade de frangipane = pastry cream.
• Le gateau au chocolat et sa créme anglaise = chocolate cake with eggs-and-breadcrumb créme.
Chat Grippé
87 rue d’Assas. Phone: 4354 7000. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Monday. Price: FFr.750 ($147) for two. All major cards. (E6).
A restaurant of large mirrors and excellent food by Michel Galichon, near Jardin du Luxembourg just south of Rue Michelet.
The gray and red walls are decorated with outsize mirrors and ugly pictures of cats, the tables with pink linen. The carved and high chairs are beautiful and comfortable. Service is so-so.
• Feuilles de morue faiche en carpaccio, pain, tomate et olive = slices of marinated cod with bread, tomato and olives.
• Cêpes de poieraux vinaigrette á l’huile de truffe = boletus mushrooms with leeks and vinegar of oil and truffes.
• Saumon rôti aux courgettes = roasted salmon with zucchini and stockfish.
• Jarret de veau en osso bucco = boiled shank of veal.
• Suprême de pintade fermiére aux trompettes de la mort = guinea hen.
• Soufflé chaud au Grand-Marnier, sorbet chocolat noir = warm Grand Marnier soufflé and black chocolate sorbet.
• Mousseline de citron craquante, chips d’orange = lemon mousse.
Chez Clément
17 boulevard des Capucines, 75002. Phone: 4742 0025. Fax: 4242 9402. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (D3).
An inexpensive restaurant near Place de la Opera. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Corbeille
154 rue Montmartre, 75002. Phone: 4026 3087. Fax: 4026 5097. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (E3).
A tiny and cozy first floor restaurant with old-fashioned decor and excellent cooking by Franck Deshayes near the Boulevard Montmartre end of the main street between the boulevards and Les Halles.
A large table for a group is downstairs and a few tables upstairs, where people sit on sofas in nooks. Large and illuminated flower frescis are on the walls. Marc Pruniéres takes care of the excellent service.
• Fricassée de champignons sauvages = browned pieces of wild mushrooms.
• Foie gras de canard des Landes = duck liver from Landes.
• Rémoulade de céleri-rave et coquilles Saint-Jacques marinées = remoulade of celery root and marinated scallops.
• Ravioles de homard a l’estragon = lobster ravioli with tarragon sauce.
• Daurade royale rôtie á la lie de vino = sea bream roasted in wine.
• Tiramisu á la liqueur d’armagnac = coffee flavored cheesecake in armagnac.
• Croustillant aux poires carmélisées á la cardamon = caramelized crust of pears flavored with ginger.
Delmonico
39 avenue de l’Opera, 75002. Phone: 4261 4426. Fax: 4261 4773. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.560 ($110) for two. All major cards. (D3).
A stalwart of traditional French cuisine and tradtional restaurant design on the main avenue between the Garnier Opera and Palais Royal, on the west side of the avenue just south of Rue d’Antin. Chef Alain Soltys and the FFr. 168 menu are the main attraction.
The dining room is open and refined, with a large flower decoration in the middle, comfortable chairs and sofas in red color, a marble wall, mirrors and modern lights in the ceiling, white linen and good service.
• Terine de caneton aux figues = duckling terrine with figs.
• Marinade de thon a l’aneth et citron vert = marinated tuna with dill and lime.
• Matelote de cabillaud riz basmati = stewed codfish with brown rice.
• Côte de porc confite á la tomate et á l’estragon = marintated pork cutlet with tomato and tarragon.
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• Chaud-froid de poires glace safran = pear gelatine with saffron ice.
• Quadrille á l’ananas sauce chocolat blanc = pinapple cake with white chocolate sauce.
Divellec
107 Rue de l’Université, 75007. Phone: 4551 9196. Fax: 4551 3175. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.1100 ($216) for two. All major cards. (C4).
An airy and an appealing culinary temple directly on the Esplanade. Jean le Divellec is in charge, having moved here from Pacha in Rochelle at the Biskay bay. He buys for the kitchen and supervises it, but in contrast to other renowned chefs in the city he does not stay at the herd. Instead he patrols the dining room to take care of the guests.
There are big windows out to Esplanade. As is usual in this class of prices and quality the decorations are aesthetic. Mirrors abound, tables are well spaced and the table service is tasteful. Service is particularly exact, under the critical eyes of the owner. There is an economical lunch menu of the day at FFr. 170.
• Courtbouillon de raie, merlan, rouget et coquilles Saint-Jacques = clear soup of ray, whiting, red mullet and scallops.
• Cassoulette d’huîtres à la laitue de mer = four oysters on sea-weed.
• Escalope de saumon au Saint-Émilion = lightly poached salmon in red wine sauce.
• Rouget poêlée en laitue = red mullet on lettuce.
• Poires au laurier = raspberries and pears on laurels.
Dodin Bouffant
25 Rue Fréderic-Sauton, 75005. Phone: 4325 2514. Fax: 4329 5261. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.470 ($92) for two. All major cards. (F5).
The best seafood restaurant is on the Left bank, near the river bank opposite Notre-Dame, only 250 meters away. World famous chef Jacques Manière is in charge in the kitchen. This is one of the gastronomic temples of Paris.
It is a big and noisy brassiere, remarkably inexpensive. Its reasonableness shows both in food and wine prices. It is also suitable for night-owls as dinner can be ordered after midnight. On the other hand furnishings and decorations are not exciting.
• Plateau de fruits de mer = A whole bowl of shellfish and crabs.
• Huîtres de l’Isle de Ré, no. 1 = oysters.
• Perdrix rotie embeurrade chous, rosé = partridge with cabbage.
• Tête de veau au romarin = pickled calf head.
• Desserts from the trolley.
Drouant
18 rue Gaillon, 75002. Phone: 4265 1516. Fax: 4924 0215. Price: FFr.1000 ($196) for two. All major cards. (D3).
An exquisite restaurant dominated by a marble staircase, near the Garnier Opera, on the eastern side of the street, a few steps from Rue Saint-Augustin.
Large paintings, open spaces, creamy yellow linen and excellent service for business diners. The prices in the adjoining café are much lower.
• Bisque de homard parfumée á la badiane = lobster bisque perfumed with badian anise, served with bread cubes.
• Foie gras de canard cuit au torchon aux baies de poivre et sel de Guérande = duck liver paté with pepper and salt.
• Canard sauvage rôti aux figues = roasted wild duck with figs.
• Carré d’agneau de Pavillac rôti á la sarriette = roasted ribs of Pavillac lamb.
• Moëlleux au chocolat, crème au café de Colombie = coffee cream chocolate cake.
• Tarte fine aux figues, glace au miel d’acacia = fig cake glaced with acacia honey.
Duquesnoy
6 avenue Bosquet, 75007. Phone: 4705 9678. Fax: 4418 9057. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1050 ($206) for two. All major cards. (B4).
The refined, small luxury restaurant of chef-owner Jean-Paul Duquesnoy is near the Alma bridge on the Seine, on the avenue connecting it with École Militaire, just north of Rue de l’Université.
The walls are bright and airy above the quality wainscoting, decorated with paintings. The antique wicket chairs at the well-spaced tables with white linen are comfortable. Francoise Duquesnoy controls the professional waiters.
• Petite marmite de poulette et ses abats parfumée au madére Sercial, a l’æuf coulant = earthenware pot of chicken with giblets in madeira sauce.
• Duo de morue rôtie et brandade parfumée charlottes de Moirmoutier et jus de veaux = roasted cod and stockfish.
• Chartreuse de pigeonneau au foie gras, sauce aux truffes = squab and cabbage with goose liver and truffle sauce.
• Millefeuille léger, poire caramélisée, sauce e créme glacée aux noix = caramelized flaky pastry with glazed walnut sauce.
• Fruits exotiques carmélisés au sucre Muscovado, avarin aux raisins de Malaga, sabayon au rhum = caramelized exotic fruit in sugar, raisin sponge cake and rum zabaglione.
Fermette Marbeuf 1900
5 Rue Marbeauf, 75008. Phone: 4723 3131. Fax: 4070 0211. Price: FFr.540 ($106) for two. All major cards. (B3).
A ravishing and a reasonably priced brassiere-bistro in the expensive fashion district just south of Champs-Élysées. It was made famous by chef Jean Laurent, but now Gilbert Isaac reigns in the kitchen.
It is decorated in a turn-of-the-century Belle Epoque style with painted tiles, lots of mirrors and glass. An elaborate system of mirrors is in the ceiling. an original glass decoration from the turn of the century is over the bar in the middle. All this combines to make the place unusually thrilling and elegant. Many noisy French jet-setters frequent it at lunch.
• Six huitres no. 3 = oysters.
• Salade vaudoise au foie gras d’oie = goose liver salad.
• Coeur de filet grillé = grilled beef filet.
• Agneau de lait rôti = roasted milk lamb.
• Assortiment des fromages = three cheeses.
• Fraises de bois de Malaga = forest strawberries from Malaga.
Gourmet de l’Isle
4 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. Phone: 4326 7927. Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (F5).
An inexpensive restaurant centrally located on the Saint-Louis island. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Grand Louvre
Piramide du Louvre, 75001. Phone: 4020 5341. Fax: 4286 0463. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E4).
The glass pyramid of Louvre is a magnificient entrance to this large quality restaurant with friendly service and agreeable cuisine in traditional style, optically impressive.
The interior archtecture is modern and not exactly romantic, but the service is friendly. Sofas line walls and columns, the chairs are comfortable and the linen is white. The menu is the same at lunch and dinner.
• Tartare de champignons de Paris aux volailles = fresh mushrooms tartare in creamed poultry sauce.
• Trois foies gras de canard faqon André Daguin = three duck livers in the Daguin style.
• Filet de sandré en écailles de pomme de terre = pike perch fillet with potato scales.
• Escalope de foie gras frais de canard = pan-fried duck liver, chef’s style.
• Croustade gersoise aux myrtilles = traditional Gascony blueberry pie tart.
• Piramide au chocolat sur créme anglaise = chocolate pyramid on vanilla sauce.
• Créme brûlée = caramelised custard with fresh lavender.
Grand Véfour
17 Rue de Beaujolais, 75001. Phone: 4296 5627. Fax: 4286 8071. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.1280 ($251) for two. All major cards. (E3).
Possibly the most beautiful restaurant in the world is in the Palais Royal buildings around the Palais Royal garden. The restaurant is one of the institutions of France, under strict protection of conservation authorities. The decorations have been restored in the original style. Good service in the classic manner is stressed here. There is good value in a set lunch menu.
The main dining room, seating about 50, is the main attraction, every inch decorated almost two centuries ago in the Directory style. It has mirrors on golden walls and delicate pictures in the ceiling, on the walls and in the carpet. Everything is delicate, from the black Directory chairs to the painted mirrors. A photo describes better this glittering apparition.
• Petits violets aux copeaux de foie gras = goose liver.
• Feuilleté de rouget à la crème de tomate = red mullet in tomato cream.
• Magret de barbarie aux fruits = duck breast with fruits.
• Poulet de Bresse au safran = roast chicken from Bresse.
• Cheeses and raspberries from the trolley.
Jacques Cagna
14 Rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006. Phone: 4326 4939. Fax: 4354 5448. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1040 ($204) for two. All major cards. (E5).
In the oldest part of the 6th district, near the river and almost alongside the charming Relais Christine hotel. Young master-chef Jacques Cagna settled here on the first floor of a 17th Century house. It is difficult to get a dinner table at this culinary temple but sometimes the place is not full at lunch, in spite of a terrific lunch menu at the reasonable price of FFr. 175.
The dining room is comfortable, seats about 70, but seems much smaller. It is dominated by beams fortified by irons, giving an atmosphere of solidity. Walls and chairs are salmon pink. Old paintings grace the walls. The cutlery is fine. Service is quiet and efficient. Cagna makes the rounds when he has the time. He is an adherent of Nouvelle Cuisine.
• Petits filets de daurade crus marinés à la tomate et à la ciboulette = transparently white bream, marinated in lemon juice, with tomato and leeks.
• Terrine de foies de volailles aux pistaches, petits oignons au coriandre = bird liver paté with nuts and onions.
• Escalope de saumon au coulis de homard à l’estragon, zeste de citron et d’orange = poached salmon in lobster sauce with very thin peel flakes.
• Filet de barbue à la mousse de homard sauce corail = brill in lobster mousse and coral sauce.
• Glacé au caramel et aux noix = nut-and-caramel ice cream.
• Cheese from the trolley.
Jules Verne
Tour Eiffel, 2nd floor, 75007. Phone: 4555 6144. Fax: 4705 2941. Price: FFr.1120 ($220) for two. All major cards. (B4).
One of the superior gourmet temples in Paris and the quaintest one is on the second of the three floors of the Eiffel Tower, offering a devastating view in all direction. The southern foot of the Eiffel tower is reserved for the entrance to Jules Verne. A doorman received us downstairs before we entered the elevator. Upstairs we start at the bar for the view from that direction.
Designed by famous Slavik, the restaurant resembles a dining room of a 21st Century spaceship or maybe the nuclear submarine of captain Nemo in Jules Verne’s story. All furnishings are in black and silver. In combination this has a consistent atmosphere of an unreal world of dreams. Extremely thin office lamps decorate the tables. Customers sit in comfortable swivel chairs.
• Baignade de melon et fraises des bois au Banyuls = Pink melons with wild strawberries.
• Salade de sole à la vinaigrette de framboises et citron vert = sole on chicory and lettuce with cucumber strings and parsley in vinegar.
• Panache de veau aigrefeuille = a mixture of ris de veau, rognons and veal with potato strings.
• Pièce de boeuf poêlée aux échalotes et au persil = rare beef with string beans and carrot strings.
• Pâte de truffes et crême café, sauce vanille = chocolate tart.
• Miroir aux framboises, crême anglaise = raspberry tart.
• Coulommiere and Münster from the cheese trolley.
Lescure
7 rue de Mondovi, 75001. Phone: 4260 1891. Hours: Closed Saturday dinner & Sunday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (D3).
An inexpensive restaurant a few steps from Place de la Concorde. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Lucas Carton
9 place de la Madeleine, 75008. Phone: 4265 2290. Fax: 4265 0623. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.1400 ($275) for two. All major cards. (D3).
One of the top restaurants of the world is on the west side of the Madeleine square, finally a suitable temple for the culinary genius of Alain Senderens, formerly of Archestrate on the left bank. He specializes in combining food and wine for a perfect fit. The restaurant combines everything, luxury, ambience and gastronomy, truly a major ambassade for French nouvelle cuisine.
Elegant and charming Éventhia Senderens greets visitors warmly. The decor is aristocratic art noveau, with lots of mirrors and polished wood, cozy nooks and comfortable chairs. This is certainly the place for you to feel finally arrived in the world. Service is extremely attentive without being obtrusive. Every course is offered with a glass of a fitting wine.
• Foie gras de canard au chou, á la vapeur, avec Juranqon moëlleux 1985 = steamed duck paté on cabbage.
• Asperges et belons au beaurre de vodka aux herbes et caviar, avec Wodka Zubrowka = asparagus and belon oysters in vodka butter with herbs and caviar.
• Filets de rouget poêlés aux olives, citron et câpers, avec Château de Beaucastel 1991 = pan-fried fillets of red mullet, with olives, lemon and capers.
• Homard á la vanille, avec Meursault 1988 = lobster in vanilla.
• Canard Apicius rôti au miel et aux épices, avec Banyuls 1978 = roasted duck in honey and spices.
• Pigeon aux navets caramélisés á la cannelle, avec Cahors 1992 = squab on turnips caramelized in cinnamon.
• Le vrai mille-feuille á la vanille, avec Muscat de Rivesaltes 1993 = Napoleon vanilla cake.
• Gâteau au chocolat coulant á la crème d’amandes améres, avec Vin d’Arbois = chocolate cake with almonds.
Main à la Pâte
35 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001. Phone: 4508 8573. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E4).
The best Italian restaurant in Paris is conveniently situated at Rue Saint-Honoré just near Forum des Halles. This place is not in the French tradition, as here it is the woman that cooks and the husband that serves, Ida and Livio Bassano. They offer an outstanding lunch menu of three courses and wine for only FFr. 75 per person.
Go upstairs into the flower room on the first floor. Most of the flowers may be of plastic but still bring some Mediterranean atmosphere to the place. Grape paintings are under the glass plates on the tables. This is the place for Italian specialties, pastas, risottos and polentas.
• Prosciutto di San Daniele = a 1961 ham from the Venice area.
• Giardinetto x 4 = mixture of four pastas; canneloni, agnolotti, tagliatelli and cappelletti.
• Orrecchio d’elefante = thin veal.
• Osso buco = stewed veal shank.
• Italian salad mixed at the table.
• Bel Paese and Gorgonzola from the cheese trolley.
Marc Annibal de Coconnas
2 place de Vosges, Rue de Birague, 75004. Phone: 4278 5816. Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday. Price: FFr.640 ($125) for two. All major cards. (G5).
An excellent restaurant a few steps from Place de Vosges, conveniently located and well designed, ovned by Claude Terrail of Tour d’Argent fame.
From the lobby there is a view into the kitchen. The dignified dining room is L-shaped, rather narrow, divided by an arch. Red draperies, large paintings and large mirrors are on the walls and red leather chairs at solid tables of wood.
• Mariniére de moules au Noilly = marinated mussels.
• Terrine de foie gras frais maison = fresh goose liver terrine of the house.
• Poule au pot du bon Roy Henri = boiled chicken soup.
• Petites cailles au chou braisé et raisin frais = quails with braised cabbage and raisins.
• Craquelin de pommes, poires et noisettes = crunchy cake of apples, pears and hazelnuts.
• Soufflé chaud au Grand Marnier = hot Grand Marnier soufflé.
Miravile
72 quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 75004. Phone: 4274 7222. Fax: 4274 6755. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.680 ($133) for two. All major cards. (F5).
An excellent and cozy restaurant on the river bank avenue, just east of Rue de Lobou, opposite the west end of the Saint-Louis island.
The dining room is small and friendly, with comfortable antique chairs, yellow linen and yellow walls, periodically disturbed by metro vibrations.
• Tartalettes des calamars sautés au safran = tartalettes of octopus fried in saffron.
• Mille-feuille craquant de homard chantilly aux herbes = flaky pastry with lobster in cream sauce with herbs.
• Sole meuniére au beurre de vieux vinaigre = sole sautéed in butter and aged vinegar.
• Tarte feuilletée aux pommes = flaky apple pastry cake.
• Pétales de pamplemousse au caramel = grapefruit crown with caramel sauce.
Muniche
27 Rue de Buci, 75006. Phone: 4261 1270. Fax: 4566 4764. Price: FFr.520 ($102) for two. All major cards. (E5).
A noisy brassiere designed by Slavik, situated a few steps from Boulevard Saint-Germain, a stone’s throw from the church. The brassiere style in Paris comes from Alsace. Many Parisians from the entertainment industry come here to dine, as the place is open for dinner orders until 3 o’clock in the morning. The cooking is elevated classic German, very filling.
In the middle of the dining area there is a bar and a buffet with glass tiers above. On the sides there are platforms with mirrors and alcoves for four. In the middle of the floor the tables are packed tightly. This is a noisy place. The experienced waiters run to and fro and there is much clinking at the buffet where glasses are washed.
• Claires no. 2 = oysters.
• Soupe au oignons = onion soup.
• Jarret et choucroute = lightly smoked ham with sour cabbage, the German “Eisbein mit Sauerkraut”.
• Poule au pot = boiled chicken.
Nicolas Flamel
51 rue Montmorency, 75003. Phone: 4271 7778. Fax: 4271 7879. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.420 ($82) for two. All major cards. (F4).
One of the most romantic and pretty restaurants in town, with mediocre food and service, in one of the oldest houses in town, from 1407, in the Beaubourg area between Rue Beaubourg and Rue Saint-Martin.
The ground floor is more agreeable than the second one. The ancient pillars and beams are much in evidence. Service is sporadic and haughty, the cooking average and unimaginative, preventing the visit becoming unforgettable, but the price is right.
• Ravioles aux trois fromages a la créme de champignons = ravioli of three cheeses and mushroom sauce.
• Saucisson Lyonnais = warm Lyon sausages with lentils.
• Filets de rouget á l’huile d’olives, étuvée de poireaux = fillets of red mullet in olive oil and dry-cooked leek.
• Coeur de rumsteak á la créme de roquefort = beef fillet with roquefort sauce and potato pie.
• Crumble aux poires á la cannelle = pear crumble with cinnamon.
Pactole
44 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005. Phone: 4633 3131. Fax: 4633 0760. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch. Price: FFr.560 ($110) for two. All major cards. (F5).
The famous restaurant of Roland and Noëlle Magne is cozy and central, situated on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue des Bernardins, about 300 meters from Notre-Dame. Check before you come whether the patrons are will be on the premises.
A blazing fireplace and an oversize mirror greet diners who enter from the busy boulevard. The dining room is decorated with chandeliers, bouquets and a lot of impressionistic paintings. This is one of the places where out of priciple English is not spoken by the haughty waiters, and is none the worse for that.
• Ravioli d’escargots à la crème d’ail = snail ravioli in vinegar sauce.
• Salade d’arichaud et haricots vers aux escalopines de foie gras = artichoke and green beans with goose liver slices.
• Escalopines de dindoneau au fenouil = slices of young turkey with fennel.
• Carré d’agneau du Limousin rôti á la violette de Toulouse = ribs of Limousin lamb roasted in a salt crust.
• Pomme au four farcie aux figues au beurre de cidre = oven-baked apples and figs with cider butter.
• Fromages de France = French cheeses.
Petit Laurent
38 rue de Varenne, 75007. Phone: 4548 7964. Fax: 4266 6859. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.620 ($122) for two. All major cards. (D5).
A beautiful restaurant in Louis XVI style with an excellent kitchen on a main west bank street, just east of Hôtel Matignon, the residence of the prime minister. Chef Sylvain Pommier changes his mainly seafood menu every day.
Large curtains, cream-colored walls and white linen characterize the small and comfortable dining room. Service is not without its faults.
• Terrine de faisan au foie, confiture d’oignons = pheasant terrine.
• Foie gras de canard, haricots verts en salade = duck liver paté with green beans in salad.
• Fricassée de pintade á la citronnelle = guinea hen in a white lemon sauce.
• Poélée de Saint-Jacques au beurre de curry = scallops fried in curry butter.
• Crème Catalane á la canelle et citron = milk cream flavored with cinnamon and lemon.
Petit Prince
12 rue Lanneau, 75005. Phone: 4354 7726. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (E5).
An inexpensive restaurant between Panthéon and Sorbonne. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Petit Saint-Benoît
4 rue Saint-Benoît, 75006. Phone: 4260 2792. Price: FFr.260 ($51) for two. No cards. (D5).
An old bistro of low prices in the heart of the left bank. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Petite Chaise
36 Rue de Grenelle, 75007. Phone: 4222 1335. Price: FFr.340 ($67) for two. All major cards. (D5).
The oldest restaurant in Paris, founded just three centuries ago, in 1681. It is the aristocrat of cheap neighborhood restaurants, situated near Saint-Germain. It has an extensive menu with a fixed FFr. 170 price, including wine and service.
The atmosphere is Parisian. The restaurant has old and tired paneling and old paintings on red walls. Chairs and tables are tightly packed. The table clothes are sparkling white and the napkins are of linen. It is an example of the French respect for dining that even in some of the cheapest places the napkins are not of paper.
• Jambon d’Auvergne = ham.
• Mousseline d’avocat = avocado mousse.
• Poulet à la mentonaise = chicken.
• Paté de boeuf au roquefort = beef paté.
• Plâteau de la ferme = cheeses.
• Sorbet framboise = raspberry sorbet.
Pharamond
24 Rue de la Grande-Truanderie, 75001. Phone: 4233 0672. Hours: Closed Monday lunch & Sunday. Price: FFr.580 ($114) for two. All major cards. (E4).
One of the most Parisian restaurants, near Forum des Halles, unassuming on the outside but glorious and quite lively inside. The cuisine hails from Normandy.
This is one of the landmark restaurants of Paris, with Belle Époque decorations from the turn of the century, giant mirrors magnifying the space, flower tiles between the mirrors and a wooden staircase. It is noisy at lunch when all the businessmen are talking at the same time. Service is good and prices fair.
• Terrine de saumon et brochet = fish paté with lettuce and crème fraiche in vinegar.
• Ris de veau à la crème = Normandy ris de veau with cream.
• Bar au beurre bland = poached bass.
• Fricassée de lotte au safran = monkfish.
• Framboises = raspberries.
Pied de Fouet
45 rue de Babylone. Phone: 4705 1227. Price: FFr.280 ($55) for two. No cards. (D5).
An inexpensive left bank restaurant. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Récamier
4 Rue Récamier, 75007. Phone: 4548 8658. Fax: 4222 8476. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: FFr.680 ($133) for two. All major cards. (D5).
In a particularly peaceful pedestrian street leading to an out of the way garden near Saint-Germain on the Left bank. Chef Robert Chassat has extensive offers on the menu.
In summer it is cheerful to dine on the pavement outside but in winter it is better to retreat to the glassed room inside. Behind that there is an Empire dining room and a well lit bar with a big flower bouquet. The trimmings are old-fashioned with painted wood and checkered wallpaper above. Curtains and glass walls divide the restaurant into smaller units. Service is charming.
• Toast de foie gras de canard = duck liver on toast.
• Fricassé d’escargots frais aux champignons sauvages = fresh snails with forest mushrooms.
• Châteaubriand Récamier = beef bleu.
• Cassoulette de ris de veau aux champignons = ris de veau with mushrooms.
• Cheeses from the trolley.
Roi du Pot-au-Feu
40 rue de Ponthieu, 75008. Phone: 4359 4162. Price: FFr.280 ($55) for two. All major cards. (C3).
An inexpensive restaurant near Champs-Elysées. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)
Taillevent
15 Rue Lamenais, 75008. Phone: 4495 1501. Fax: 4225 9518. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: FFr.1210 ($237) for two. All major cards. (B2).
An elegant temple of cuisine and service near Arc de Triomphe. For decades it has been one of the grand restaurants of Paris and has in addition climbed up the culinary ladder in recent years. The owner is the dining room inspector Jean-Claude Vrinat, and the chef is Philippe Legendre. You have to reserve weeks or even months in advance.
The restaurant is superbly and majestically decorated in the style of Napoleon III. Heavy wood is much in use, chandeliers and flower arrangements. The carpet is thick and expensive. All furnishings match in style. The same can be said about the service, which is among the best in the world, a little on the stiffer side. The well-dressed customers match the style.
• Flan tiede aux champignons des bois = forest mushrooms.
• Terrine de rougets au beurre d’anchois = red bass paté with anchovy butter.
• Mousse de foies blonds à l´huile de noix = foie gras mousse.
• Pigonneau à l´hydromel = roast chicken.
• Cheeses and desserts from trolley.
Tour d’Argent
15-17 quai de la Tournelle, 75005. Phone: 4354 2331. Fax: 4407 1204. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: FFr.1800 ($353) for two. All major cards. (F5).
Owner Claude Terrail has the motto: “Nothing is more serious than pleasure” at this majestic and elegant top-floor restaurant, for decades famous for its numbered ducks, opposite the Tournelle bridge, with an excellent view to Notre Dame.
You are received downstairs by a doorman who leads you through the restaurant museum to the elevator, where a boy whisks you up to the haven of refined dining. Service is perfect without being mechanical. The ducks are flambéed on an elevated stage in front of a map of historical Paris. Everything is beautiful, including the ceiling and the paintings on the walls.
• Quenelles de brochet André Terrail = pike dumplings.
• Saumon fumé d’Écosse = smoked salmon from Scotland.
• Foie gras d’oie des trois empereurs = goose liver.
• Nage de rougets au safran fenouil et olives noires = poached red mullet with saffron, fennel and black olives.
• Caneton á la broche aux navets confits et cæur de salade = duckling on spit with candied turnips and salad.
• Mille-feuille d’ananas caramelisé, sabayon au kirsch = caramelized flaky pineapple pastry.
• Flambée de pêche á l’eau-de-framboise = flambéd peaches in raspberry liqour.
Trumilou
84 Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 75004. Phone: 4277 6398. Fax: 4804 9189. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: FFr.300 ($59) for two. All major cards. (F5).
On the Right river bank opposite Ile Saint-Louis, an old tavern for habitués, inexpensive and large. Plain food and no decor.
1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson
